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In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2020

In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève

When applied to watches, “bespoke” brings to mind the ultra-complicated timepieces made for famous historical figures like James W. Packard and Henry Graves Jr., who each commissioned a succession of one-off watches that pushed the technical boundaries of watchmaking in the early decades of the 20th century. One of those watches, the landmark Patek Philippe “Supercomplication” made for Graves, long held the title of most-expensive-watch ever sold. In the modern day, watchmakers continue to create unique watches. Patek Philippe does it quietly for its best clients, while Vacheron Constantin is more public with its Atelier Cabinotiers department that specialises in customised timepieces. Similarly, artisanal independent watchmakers like Voutilainen often accept commissions. But as a collector, how easy is it to dip your toes into the waters of bespoke or custom watchmaking? This is my maiden experience with such watches, which started at Andersen Geneve some six years ago. Svend at work Industrial vs. artisanal I first wanted to get involved in the creation of a custom watch in 2014. I already knew then it could not merely be changing colours on the dial or hands, neither could it be an engraved monogram. What I wanted was a truly unique world-time watch with a Louis Cottier-type mechanism. At the same time, I had a certain budget in mind, so I approached independent watchmakers that made watches I liked, but with steel cases. Somewhat naively, I thought adding a ti...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An open letter describing how you schooled us on the place of watches in a pandemic. How can they still matter? Time+Tide
Apr 30, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An open letter describing how you schooled us on the place of watches in a pandemic. How can they still matter?

This time a couple of weeks ago, the challenge was set, and it was formidable. A fast approaching watch fair – Watches & Wonders – with no watches in sight. None to have. None to hold. None to video. What choice but to fold? We didn’t do that, though. We’re Aussies, we don’t give up … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An open letter describing how you schooled us on the place of watches in a pandemic. How can they still matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: If you’re complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches Apr 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: If you’re complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you

The best thing about perpetual calendar watches is they are truly set-and-forget timepieces. So if you’re reading this a few decades from now and you’ve picked up a 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar as a birth-year watch, don’t worry, it won’t need to be adjusted till well into your retirement in 2100. Vacheron Constantin … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: If you’re complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Montblanc Novelties for 2020 with Editorial Commentary Deployant
Montblanc Novelties Apr 29, 2020

New: Montblanc Novelties for 2020 with Editorial Commentary

Montblanc is building up its identity as the adventurer brand, heritage sports. In particular, there is, as with many other brands, the obsession with navigation and the reminiscence of European adventurism. Of the models this year, the brand has mostly stuck to its guns with the Geosphere, and Monopusher. The 24 hour single hand watch is also rather unique. The case dimensions for the watches remain on the more hefty side of things, as expected especially with the thicker movement Monopusher automatic.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Oster Edition: Horological Joy In Collaboration Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Oster Apr 28, 2020

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Oster Edition: Horological Joy In Collaboration

The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Oster Edition is the result of an informal meeting between Denver-based retailer Jeremy Oster, Armin Strom head of watchmaking Claude Greisler, and independent watchmaker extraordinaire Kari Voutilainen. Not surprisingly, the collaboration resulted in a stunning, technical watch limited to just 10 pieces and available only through Oster Jewelers. It's a must-see!

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon Apr 27, 2020

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

The flagship of IWC’s new Portugieser watches unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2020 is not the most complicated, but it is certainly the most unusual. The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is a first for IWC, introducing a brand-new complication to its line-up – a tide indication that tracks the ocean’s ebbs and flows. Initial thoughts The Yacht Club Moon & Tide is a big, heavy and shiny sports watch with twin sub-dials, but it is far more interesting than the typical watch in this category (which is almost always a chronograph). One of the very rare, comprehensive tide-display watches on the market, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide incorporates twin tidal displays, which are useless for most but fascinating, not just because they are rare but also because they are, in essence, an astronomical complication. And the tidal displays are combined with IWC’s trademark double moon phase, making it a bit more compelling. (But like all tide-indicator watches, the new Yacht Club has a caveat: IWC points out it “works reliably on all coasts with two equally strong high and low tides per day”. It is not a flaw, but just a nature of the complication. More that below.) At the same time, the watch overall is constructed to IWC’s usual levels of quality, which is to say excellent. The only downside is the rose-gold case, resulting in a steep price tag; hopefully a steel or titanium version comes along (and it probably will). The tidal watch, until now The tide-indicator complicatio...

Why Rolex, Patek and others’ decision to postpone new releases might be the move that makes you fall in love with watches all over again Time+Tide
Rolex Patek Apr 25, 2020

Why Rolex, Patek and others’ decision to postpone new releases might be the move that makes you fall in love with watches all over again

Like an addict itching for a fix, I recently listened to a football podcast where one of the hosts dropped a surprising confession. He admitted that, despite Covid-19 having stopped all games being played for six weeks, he wasn’t actually missing live football. Instead he’d taken the opportunity to re-watch old World Cups, enjoy classic … ContinuedThe post Why Rolex, Patek and others’ decision to postpone new releases might be the move that makes you fall in love with watches all over again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT PAM01108 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Apr 25, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT PAM01108

With last year’s limited editions packaged with extreme adventures having sold well commercially, Panerai is once again offering a watch packaged with a once-in-a-lifetime experience, except that the timepiece is no longer merely a basic dive watch. Limited to just five pieces, the Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT PAM01108 is equipped with a skeletonised movement featuring a second time zone and tourbillon. More unusually, the massive, 50 mm case of the PAM 1108 is fabricated from recycled steel. The EcoPangaea tourbillon has an unusual bezel milled to have its markings in relief Named EcoPangaea steel, the material is recycled from the discarded drive shaft of Pangaea, the 35 m sailboat owned by South African conservationist and explorer Mike Horn. The vessel has accompanied Mr Horn on various expeditions around the world, from Antarctica to the Amazon. Fittingly, the watch includes an Arctic adventure supervised by Mike Horn, which Panerai describes as “an opportunity to test your physical limits and witness the imperiled state of our ecosystem.” The perpendicular tourbillon The PAM 1108 is powered by the P.2005/T, a movement Panerai has used on several other skeleton-tourbillon watches. Hand-wound with a six-day power reserve, the P.2005/T incorporates a second time zone function with a central GMT hand, as well as the novel tourbillon at 10 o’clock. Unlike conventional tourbillons that rotate on the same plane as the dial, with the balance wheel oscilla...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Astronomical Grand Complication “Ode to Music” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 24, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Astronomical Grand Complication “Ode to Music”

Just revealed at Watches & Wonders 2020, the Les Cabinotiers Astronomical Grand Complication “Ode to Music” is the latest chiming watch to emerge from Ateliers Cabinotiers, Vacheron Constantin’s dedicated department for commissions and ambitious unique pieces that showcase the brand’s technical as well as artisanal skills. If the watch looks familiar, that’s because it is based on the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, the most complicated wristwatch ever created by Vacheron Constantin at the time of its launch in 2017, but more importantly, the most comprehensive astronomical complication wristwatch ever made. The new Ode to Music retains all of its astronomical prowess, but replaces the tourbillon with a minute repeater, while omitting the tide indicator and power reserve display. Rebuilt grand comp As a result, the Ode to Music retains the same astronomical display module but is actually constructed on an entirely different base movement from the Celestia. While the Celestia relied on a base movement with a tourbillon and six barrels, the Ode to Music utilises the minute repeating cal. 1731, a wide but ultra-thin movement measuring just 3.9 mm high. Comprising a total of 600 parts, the resulting cal. 1731M820 is hand-wound, with a frequency of 3Hz and a 60-hour power reserve on a single barrel. Because of the thinner base movement, the Ode to Music clocks in at a relatively svelte 12.45 mm high, versus 13.6 mm for the Celestia. ...