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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Longines Introduces the Heritage Military Marine Nationale SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Aug 26, 2020

Longines Introduces the Heritage Military Marine Nationale

Longines’ momentum with retro timepieces continues with the new Heritage Military Marine Nationale. The new remake is clean and legible, just like its inspiration, which was made for the French Navy in 1947. The vintage original, the ref. 5774, was an instrument for shallow diving – albeit one without the familiar rotating bezel of a diver’s watch that wouldn’t be invented until the 1950s. Consequently, it was a clean and legible watch, and so does the vintage reissue. Initial thoughts The Marine Nationale recreates the feel of the original quite well, despite being substantially larger. That’s accomplished by retaining the proportions of the original, as well as smaller but important details, like the shape of the seconds hand and the vintage logo on the dial. And thankfully there is no date to ruin the symmetrical dial. Like most of Longines’ other remakes, the appeal of the Marine Nationale lies in its affordable price of US$2,000, which is strong value especially given the upgraded ETA movement within. The only weakness of the Marine Nationale – especially given it is a remake of a dive watch – is the minimal water resistance of just 30 m. Subtle reworking At 38.5 mm wide, the Marine Nationale is relatively small by modern standards, even though it has been significantly enlarged from its original’s 33 mm diameter. That said, the size of the remake is good, especially coupled with the relatively thick case, which preserves the proportions of the ori...

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Streamliner Centre Second SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 26, 2020

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Streamliner Centre Second

Launched earlier this year after much teasing, the Streamliner chronograph was the first sports watch – with an integrated bracelet – from H. Moser & Cie. The Streamliner design accomplished an unusual feature: bringing to the table a unique case and bracelet style that manages to look at home with other luxury-sports watches, while being distinctive enough to avoid being derivative. With Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan having revealed additional Streamliner models were in the pipeline, the latest is not a surprise. The Steamliner Centre Second retains the same case and bracelet style of the chronograph, but as a more affordable, time-only watch. Initial thoughts Slightly smaller than the chronograph, the time-only Streamliner is 40 mm wide and 11.8 mm high, so it is fairly classical in its proportions. That also means it probably wears slightly better than the chronograph, which was already quite compact despite its measurements. And the striking green fume dial doubtlessly gives the Streamliner Centre Second a good deal of wrist presence. Priced at a little under US$22,000, the new watch is markedly more affordable, costing half as much as the chronograph. That said, the Streamliner Centre Second is pricey compared to Moser’s other steel watches. While the chronograph was well priced and compelling, mainly because it is powered by the ingenious Agenhor movement, the time-only Streamliner isn’t quite as strong a value proposition. Streamliner style Havin...

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks Aug 26, 2020

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year

As a distillation of what a Japanese firm does best, the Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers a compelling line of thought – if you’re looking for a great watch on the more affordable side of things, do you pursue the usual mechanical suspects or high-end quartz? With a case based on the iconic 44GS design, an … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

S.U.F. Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Casio n Aug 25, 2020

S.U.F. Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin

A comic strip populated by quirky characters, Moomin is the creation of the late Finnish artist Tove Jansson. The long-running comic marks its 75th anniversary in 2020, and is marking the occasion with a limited edition wristwatch created by Finnish watchmaker S.U.F Helsinki, the more affordable brand started by independent watchmaker Stephan Sarpaneva, who is best known for his moon phase watches. The Sarpaneva x Moomin watch features a skeletonised dial depicting a central character from the comic, Moomintroll, amidst a pastoral landscape. While the dial is monochromatic during the day, it dazzles up at night as a result of the Technicolour Super-Luminova that’s been painted by hand. Initial thoughts The glow-in-the-dark dial is whimsical and striking, even for someone unfamiliar with the comic. And it is presented in an appealing pacakge. S.U.F typically offers excellent case quality, and here the whole has been boosted by the complex open working of the dial, a feature that is typically found on pricier Sarpaneva watches. And inside is a Soprod A10, a tried-and-tested movement from a widely-known maker, which means servicing will be easy. For €5,000, or about US$5,900, the Moomin wristwatch is a compelling, fun purchase, especially since it is a small run of just 75 watches. Though it costs double the base-model S.U.F watch with the same case and movement, the hand-painted “lume” dial is a surprisingly intricate bit of work for a relatively affordable watch. D...

Bernhard Lederer Debuts the Central Impulse Chronometer Prototype SJX Watches
Aug 25, 2020

Bernhard Lederer Debuts the Central Impulse Chronometer Prototype

A member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since its founding in 1985, Bernhard Lederer is a veteran of independent watchmaking. Though known amongst collectors for having founded the brand BLU in 2002, Mr Lederer is more of a watchmaker’s watchmaker, supplying movements and complications via his company MHM (short for “Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie et Micromécanique”). Born in Germany but based in Switzerland for decades, Mr Lederer’s technical prowess is on full view with his latest creation – the Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC). Seemingly a mere three-hand wristwatch on the front, the CIC is a actually a significant accomplishment – and undoubtedly one of the most notable watches of 2020 from a technical perspective. The movement is equipped with a natural escapements as well as dual gear trains. The construction is familiar – Mr Lederer describes it as a tribute to the late George Daniels and his landmark Space Traveller pocket watch – but improved and refined with the addition a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism for each going train. Initial thoughts With seemingly everything already having been done in watchmaking, it is not often that we encounter a genuinely interesting – and improved – twist to an already uncommon escapement. Here Mr Lederer rejuvenates the centuries-old idea of the natural escapement, but elevated by the added complexity and performance gains of twin remontoir going tr...

The Making Of A Custom-Engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique Aug 24, 2020

The Making Of A Custom-Engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique

A collector got in touch with Martin Green about an engraving project on a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique that he was planning. What caught Martin's attention was that the collector was collaborating with an engraver very close to his home, so he seized the opportunity to follow the project as it unfolded. He shares his experiences and photos here.

The new Batman trailer just dropped and we wonder, will The Batman wear a Chanel J12? Time+Tide
Chanel J12? Aug 24, 2020

The new Batman trailer just dropped and we wonder, will The Batman wear a Chanel J12?

The trailer for The Batman just dropped, and anyone worried that it’s going to go all Twilight via Robert Pattinson should have their fears properly allayed. It’s as grim and gritty as ever, and the beatdown he puts on a henchmen in this short clip is nothing short of vicious. But while the trailer for The … ContinuedThe post The new Batman trailer just dropped and we wonder, will The Batman wear a Chanel J12? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The How, What, When, Where And Why Of Seeing The Aurora Borealis, AKA Northern Lights – Reprise Quill & Pad
Aug 23, 2020

The How, What, When, Where And Why Of Seeing The Aurora Borealis, AKA Northern Lights – Reprise

Ian Skellern and his wife serendipitously chanced upon "seeing" the aurora borealis while visiting Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and the excitement of that led to months of research. And that research led to spending a few days in the Arctic Circle in the north of Sweden. Here is what Ian has learned about the northern lights so far, some of it firsthand.

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Roma Synergy SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Introduces Aug 22, 2020

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Roma Synergy

Schwarz Etienne is best known for its interesting, in-house movements that are diverse but built on the same basic platform. The brand’s watches, on the other hand, do not possess the same level of appeal as its movements. With a newly-announced tie up with Voutilainen – the highly-regarded independent watchmaker founded by the eponymous Finn – Schwarz Etienne is attempting to inject a little of the artisanal look and feel that distinguishes Voutilainen’s creations. The fruit of the collaboration is the Roma Synergy, a time-only automatic wristwatch featuring a guilloche dial made by Voutilainen, which is also responsible for some decorative touches on the movement. Initial thoughts The look of the watch is immediately reminiscent of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity and first-generation Chopard L.U.C (the Chopard was introduced in 1996, while the Simplicity in 2000). It’s a classical, mid-20th century look, so the resemblance is not a bad thing. But unlike the other two, the dial makes full use of Voutilainen’s engine-turning capabilities. It’s ambitiously decorated with three different guilloche patterns, giving it a slightly frantic look. Voutilainen also adds its finesse to the back, most obviously on the barrel ratchet wheel, but the result is a bit of a mismatch. The rest of the movement, which includes an Etachron regulator for the balance, does not live up to the finely-finished ratchet wheel. And the Roma Synergy costs just over US$30,000 – three ...

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold is kingmaker on the wrist Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Aug 20, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold is kingmaker on the wrist

The advent of Hublot’s Big Bang essentially launched the provocative, innovative and disruptive brand. The brainchild of horological mega-doyen Jean-Claude Biver, the Big Bang arrived on the scene way back in 2004, and since then, it has not only reinvigorated but redefined what Hublot stands for. The evocatively named, plus-sized timepiece has been the wrist-worn proving … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold is kingmaker on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Aug 20, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V

Introduced five decades ago, the Seiko 5 is much loved for its affordability and infinite variety. Last year Seiko gave the Seiko 5 Sports a complete revamp, giving it a diver “lite” look. Now the redesigned watch is the base for the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V, a limited-edition collection that’s a tribute to the iconic one-on-one fighting video game developed by Japanese game maker Capcom. Each of the six watches in the line up is inspired by character from Street Fighter, one of the bestselling games in history, with some 45 million units sold to date and a major part of growing up in the 1990s. Initial thoughts Essentially variants of the same watch with different dials and bezels, the Street Fighter editions have the same case as the regular production model, which means 42.5 mm wide, 13.3 mm thick, and a 100 m depth rating. While it sounds large, the watch is more wearable that the diameter suggests thanks to the short lug-to-lug span at 46 mm. Also identical is the 4R36 movement and lack of a screw-in crown, which feels counterintuitive on a sports watch, though strictly speaking there is no practical difference between the two in everyday use. However, the similarities stop there. The new limited editions escalate the fun factor with creative dial designs and bright colours. But the price has also increased steeply – the Street Fighter editions cost almost twice as much as the standard model – no doubt due to the royalties due to the game’s d...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Spin Time Air Japan Edition SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Aug 19, 2020

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Spin Time Air Japan Edition

Now almost two decades into its foray into watchmaking, Louis Vuitton has progressively introduced more complicated timepieces, an evolution that accelerated after its takeover of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT). Now Louis Vuitton’s signature complication, the Spin Time that tells the time with jumping cubes was LFDT’s earliest contributions to the trunk maker’s offerings. The latest variant of the complication is the Spin Time Air Japan Limited Edition. Drawing inspiration from the Japanese culture, the edition is made up of both a men’s and women’s model, each decorated with a motif that is distinctly Japanese. Initial thoughts With both versions having the same 42.5 mm Tambour case – tambour is French for drum and the very first case design of the brand – they are largish watches with great wrist presence, but they sit high on the wrist due to the case thickness (which is a consequence of the complication). But thanks to the relatively short lugs the case wears quite well. The case, however, is well proportioned – the large size suits the unique time display, with sufficient empty space to showcase the floating Spin Time complication. Reminiscent of the work of independent watchmakers like Urwerk and Ludovic Ballouard, the Spin Time display is inventive and different, but also easy to read, illustrating Louis Vuitton’s investment in making watches. But it is expensive, starting at US$80,000 for the men’s version. Japanese...

We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to Time+Tide
Longines VP Aug 18, 2020

We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to

The Longines Spirit release is a totally new collection this year, something that is already very exciting in and of itself, but also because it’s an entirely new chapter for the brand. Longines, just like many of the finest watchmakers in the world, slowly improve their watches over time and rarely release entirely new collections, … ContinuedThe post We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.