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Seiko Has Announced a New Marinemaster based on the Original 62MAS, the High End of their Prospex Dive Range Worn & Wound
Seiko Has Announced Nov 16, 2023

Seiko Has Announced a New Marinemaster based on the Original 62MAS, the High End of their Prospex Dive Range

While it’s true that it’s certainly Dubai Watch Week as I sit here and write, an argument could be made that we’re in the midst of an unofficial Seiko Week as well. Recent new product announcements run the gamut from the affordable and fun to the ultra niche collector focused limited edition. Today’s announcement might be the one that ultimately gets enthusiasts most excited, however. After some teasing through social media earlier in the week, Seiko has unveiled the new generation Seiko Prospex Marinemaster, officially dubbed the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation. This is technically a product line that has been available for a while in the Japanese domestic market, but Seiko is pointing out with this launch that the Prospex Marinemaster is now global, and represents the top tier of Seiko dive watches worldwide.  The broad strokes here will of course be familiar to anyone who has strapped a Seiko diver to their wrist over the years. The format here is based on the original Seiko dive watch, the 62MAS from 1965, a watch that Seiko has returned to over and over again for inspiration through the years. Particularly in recent years, a crop of divers in the “SPB14X” range (which we’ve covered extensively) have become mainstays in enthusiast watch culture by presenting themselves as affordable dive watches in the spirit of the 62MAS without being direct recreations (but if it’s a recreation you want, Seiko has you covered). The ...

Hands-On With the Iridescent New Oris ProPilot X Laser Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Czapek Arcanaut Nov 16, 2023

Hands-On With the Iridescent New Oris ProPilot X Laser

Oris expands their ProPilot X collection this week at the Dubai Watch Week event, with the introduction of the ProPilot X Laser. The watch continues with the theme of the ProPilot X, bringing the same trim titanium case and bracelet to the party, but this time mated to a very different dial experience than we’ve seen before in this collection. There are big changes and some smaller ones that we appreciate seeing here, as this represents the biggest departure from the standard trio introduced last year. Oris has never been afraid to wade into experimental waters with their dials, and this ProPilot X continues that trend in a new way.  The latest ProPilot X is called Laser thanks to the technique used to create its dial, a method which Oris claims has not been applied in watchmaking before. Oris enlisted the help of a research lab affiliated to the prestigious ETH Zürich university to bring the concept to life. The result is something bordering ethereal in person, with a constantly changing palette of colors rendered in the unique texture. The iridescent effect is quite powerful and Oris has demonstrated a deft hand in making sure it’s the focal point of this watch. We’ve been spoiled by some truly amazing dial creations in recent years from the likes of Grand Seiko, Czapek, Arcanaut, and yes, even Oris. My first thought upon seeing a truly compelling dial is to how it fits in with the rest of the watch. For instance, the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite boasts a unique color...

The Longines Legend Diver is Now Available in a Smaller, 39mm Case Worn & Wound
Longines Legend Diver Nov 16, 2023

The Longines Legend Diver is Now Available in a Smaller, 39mm Case

The Longines Legend Diver is a perennial contender insofar as enthusiasts are concerned, and it truly feels like it has always been relevant. Dual crown case, distinctive hands, inner rotating bezel – these have really come to define a model that has become a core of the Longines sport watch lineup. Indeed, it was part of the opening salvo of vintage-inspired tool watches that shifted an entire industry towards that genre over the last decade; in fact there is a non-zero chance the timepiece you are wearing as you read this exists thanks in part to the Legend Diver. Lately the Spirit line has garnered a lot of attention (and for good reason) but Longines has not left its dive watch to languish. After 16(!) long years since Longines reintroduced the model back in 2007, they have refreshed their most famous dive watch. Spoiler alert: there’s a lot to like. Updates to the Legend Diver have been made both inside and out. There’s no need to bury the lede here: the most notable change is that the case has been redesigned and downsized from 42mm to 39mm. More on that in a moment. It still utilizes Longines’ exclusive L888 movement, which is now COSC certified. Longines claims their movements are cased then tested continuously for 15 days across three temperature levels and numerous positions before certification.  Another notable change is that the date at 3 o’clock is now nowhere to be found. This is part of Longines’ effort in achieving ISO 6425 certification, whi...

New: IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG and Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One™ Team Deployant
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Nov 16, 2023

New: IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG and Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One™ Team

IWC Schaffhausen releases the latest iteration of their Pilot’s Watch, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41. The Pilot’s Watch now comes with tachymeter scales dedicated to it’s long time motorsports partners AMG and the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team. The AMG variant in Titanium and the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team in their proprietary Ceratanium®Read More

Outstanding Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Nov 16, 2023

Outstanding Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ upcoming auction in Hong Kong begins on November 24 and as is now convention, the sale includes a diverse selection of independent watchmaking.  Among the highlights in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is the F.P. Journe Coffret 38 – the collection of five watches with 38 mm steel cases made to mark the discontinuation of the brand’s historic case size. Each model in the set is significant in François-Paul Journe’s horological ascent, from the groundbreaking Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite to the meticulously no-frills Chronomètre Optimum, and here each watch is (relatively) accessible and sold as an individual lot. The auction features creations from other notable watchmakers in every price range, including Daniel Roth, Habring², Voutilainen, and a Harry Winston developed by Greubel Forsey. These watches invite exploration into the history and future of watchmaking, and some tell stories of craftsmanship and innovation that captivate.  The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is scheduled for November 24 and 25. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain I in the sale is the second to be sold publicly in as many auction seasons Lots 815-819: F.P. Journe Coffret 38 set of steel watches In 1991, François-Paul Journe introduced his first wristwatch that had a platinum case 38 mm in diameter – large enough to be unheard of at the time. In comparison, the Patek Philippe ref. 5004 split-...

Seiko Rings in a Major Anniversary (Really, This is a Big One) with a Recreation of their Very First Wristwatch Worn & Wound
Seiko Rings Nov 15, 2023

Seiko Rings in a Major Anniversary (Really, This is a Big One) with a Recreation of their Very First Wristwatch

We joke around here quite a bit about every year being an anniversary for something. Watch brands have never been shy about celebrating what most of the outside world would consider somewhat inconsequential milestones. Of course, hobbies like ours are built on obsessing over the inconsequential, so it makes a lot of sense at the end of the day. Sometimes, though, there’s a truly significant anniversary that everyone can get behind, and you better believe watch brands aren’t going to ignore those. To that point, next year marks the 100th anniversary of the Seiko brand, a pretty big deal if there ever was one. We’re just weeks away from the calendar changing over, and Seiko has taken the opportunity to get the celebration started a little early.  Seiko, to be clear, has a complicated history that starts before the name “Seiko” was ever used on a watch, so what we’re celebrating here is the 100 year anniversary of the first time that branding was used on a wristwatch. We’re quite certain that Seiko will have an entire lineup of limited and special editions to celebrate the milestone, but the first out of the gate is the entry seen here from the Presage collection, a tribute to that very first wristwatch from 1924.  Seiko is no stranger to dealing with their past, and they’ve taken many approaches over the years in interpreting historic references. The new Seiko Presage Kintaro Hattori Limited Edition (reference SPB441) is effectively a recreation of the orig...

Norqain Introduces the First Wild ONE Featuring Solid Gold, Plus a New Blacked Out Version Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces Nov 15, 2023

Norqain Introduces the First Wild ONE Featuring Solid Gold, Plus a New Blacked Out Version

We’re a little more than a year into the life of the Wild ONE, Norqain’s ambitious sports watch featuring their proprietary Norteq material. In a catalog of watches that are mostly inspired by classic, vintage watch design cues, the Wild ONE stands out as being unapologetically modern, both in terms of its aesthetics and the raw materials. This watch is part of an ongoing turn within the industry to alternative materials based in carbon fibers, plastics, and uncommon metals and alloys. According to Norqain, the combination of Norteq and rubber used in the case allows for a watch that can be rated to an unreal 5,000g shock test, which would likely create an impact that the wearer would have a hard time walking away from. Norqain has been framing the Wild ONE all along as a pure sports watch, but with these latest variants, I continue to wonder if it’s really more of an incredibly impact resistant design object.  To be clear, I like this watch as a design object. I’m not taking it mountain biking, rock climbing, skiing, or anything else that the Norqain team thinks I might want to do with it. But I do like the way it looks and the way it’s made, and I think the latest releases seen here expand on the design language in a fun way. First up is the first Wild ONE to make use of solid gold, the aptly named Wild ONE Gold. The top section of the case is crafted from polished 18-carat red gold, with the base section made of black Norteq. The middle features the Wild ONE...

MB&F; Introduces the HM11 Architect SJX Watches
MB&F; Nov 15, 2023

MB&F; Introduces the HM11 Architect

MB&F; has introduced its latest Horological Machine, the HM11 Architect, inspired by 1960s futurist architecture. Featuring a central flying tourbillon surrounded by four polished titanium lobes, three of which contain dials, the HM11 offers a novel rotating case that pulls double duty as an enormous winding crown. Designed by longtime collaborator Eric Giroud, the HM11 takes cues from habitology, an architectural movement of the late 1960s that challenged conventional norms for domestic buildings, preferring organic forms to straight walls and rectangular windows.  Initial thoughts As someone who favours traditional design, I usually find Horological Machines a tad large and a bit ostentatious. But the HM11 is more compact and sleeker than its specs suggest. In fact, the HM11 is the most traditional Horological Machine yet on the wrist, with a round 42 mm case and simple lugs. It has a surprisingly small footprint on the wrist, though it is tall, standing 23 mm at its highest, so it’s not for the faint of heart (or the long-sleeved).  Yet even by the sculptural standards set by previous Horological Machines, the HM11 feels ambitious, particularly in the case construction. The complex form of the case, for example, requires 19 gaskets to ensure 20 m of water resistance. There are also numerous hidden details, like a proprietary shock dampening system adapted from the aerospace industry, that contribute to an overall package that is deeply satisfying; the longer you look...

A new Kurono Chronograph Shows How the Brand Develops New Refinements with Each Release Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo could nearly break Nov 14, 2023

A new Kurono Chronograph Shows How the Brand Develops New Refinements with Each Release

There was a time not too long ago when news of a new watch from Kurono Tokyo could nearly break the internet. OK, that’s an exaggeration, but as the brand was building up a head of steam, it felt like loads of hype accompanied every new announcement. This was the peak of pandemic era watch speculation, and Kurono was in the middle of it. Over time, the frenzy has cooled and Kurono announcements are no longer the object of such intense scrutiny. I get the sense that Hajime Asaoka and his team are just fine with that – this is a brand that has instituted layers of “anti flipping” safeguards to their ordering process, after all. But a curious thing is happening: as the hysteria for Kurono’s limited editions has waned, the watches themselves seem to be getting better. Not just in terms of their aesthetics (that’s a matter of opinion, of course) but in the way they’re made and their ergonomics. It would be incredibly easy for Kurono to just keep cranking out new colorways, but every new release is indicative of subtle refinements to the brand’s approach, applying new techniques with every watch.  Their latest, the Chronograph 3 “Hisui”, is a great example of the way the brand has made little changes and continues to experiment while still hewing close to what has become a distinct house style. Kurono’s chronographs have evolved into colorful “sector” designs over the years, and this example has what I think is a very appealing mint green colorway that...

How a Hamilton Pocket Watch Pulled Me Out of a Slump Worn & Wound
Hamilton Pocket Watch Pulled Me Nov 14, 2023

How a Hamilton Pocket Watch Pulled Me Out of a Slump

In the last few years, I think the pandemic took something from everyone-for me it was my job, and my life in NYC. Eleven years spent going to graduate school, forging friendships, working, and finding my place in New York City, and one day it all vanished. I am fortunate and privileged enough to have had family and friends to lean on in my hometown of Chesapeake, Virginia. However, coming back to Virginia felt like moving in reverse.  I came back to be with my family, no longer a full-time literary agent and adjunct professor, but hellbent to claw my way toward something I could love. In the meantime, a friend from high school, Kathleen, hired me to cook at her café, Battlegrounds, until I could find whatever was to come next.   The headspace was humbling, and I was wounded. My life was changed, and it wasn’t my choice. The friends who held me up every day in New York were not physically present to provide a shoulder. But the café was filled with positivity emanating from the young people who worked with me, and the regular customers who came just to talk and indulge in a latte and a breakfast sandwich.  One of those regulars was James, a lawyer around 40 years my senior (I’m 36 for context). James’s office was next door to the café and every morning he’d walk over for a cup of coffee with fresh cut flowers from his extensive garden. Battlegrounds was adorned each day with James’s vibrance. He’d take a seat in front of the grill and would talk to me a...

The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Taps into Japanese Skateboarding Culture Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Nov 14, 2023

The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Taps into Japanese Skateboarding Culture

For those of you who only know the Tony Hawks of the world when it comes to skateboarding celebrities, might I introduce you to Yuto Horigome.  Born in Tokyo on January 7, 1999, Yuto began skateboarding at six, influenced by his father. Rising through the ranks of Japanese competitions as a teenager, he moved to the U.S. after high school and quickly excelled in Street League Skateboarding, winning three 2018 stops within a year of his debut. Horigome achieved numerous milestones, including being the first Japanese skateboarder to win the X Games in 2019 and securing the World Championship in 2021, and in 2023, he became the first Japanese skateboarder to triumph at the historic Tampa Pro contest in the United States. With a resume like this, it’s no wonder that Seiko has released their latest Seiko 5 Sport in collaboration with the skateboarding wunderkind. This automatic GMT is the perfect balance of Seiko’s trademark style with a nod to the Tokyo that Horigome-san knows and loves.  For starters, the 42.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet are coated in black which works nicely as the backdrop for the blue and purple bezel, inspired by Tokyo sunsets. The exhibition back’s Hardlex crystal is decorated with Yuto’s signature for an added personalized touch. Underneath the crystal, one can see the 4R34 caliber at work. This is a limited edition model with a limited production run of just 2,700 pieces. Each unit will be serialized, and the retail price is $520. Ava...

Timex Introduces a Trio of Watches Inspired by the Art of Keith Haring Worn & Wound
Timex Introduces Nov 13, 2023

Timex Introduces a Trio of Watches Inspired by the Art of Keith Haring

Across the 80’s, it would have been hard to miss the cultural impact that Keith Haring’s work had. Influenced by the graffiti culture of New York City, Haring mixed visual storytelling with an irreverence that caught the attention of art elite and the average Joe alike.  More than 30 years on from his death, Haring’s legacy has been immortalized in everything from Pandora rings to H&M; capsules. Now, Timex is honoring the artist with three new references that show the whimsy and urbanity of Haring’s work. Inspired by Haring’s early work of white graffiti on dark subway tiles, these three watches have a striking contrast of black-and-white that instantly makes them hard to miss. While elements of Haring’s work touch on the design, each reference is wholly Timex, making this a collaboration that highlights both the artist and the maker. The Timex x Keith Haring Easy Reader (ref: TW2W25400) is first on the list for those looking to show off some 80’s-style high art graffiti. It features an INDIGLO backlight, quartz movement, mineral glass crystal, and a 30 meter water-resistant design. The watch stands out with a customized strap featuring Haring’s work, adding a further dimension to the co-branding experience. With a 38mm case diameter and 18mm lug width, it strikes a balanced profile for both men and women to enjoy. Next on the list is the Timex x Keith Haring T80 (ref: TW2W25500), a digital watch that’s equipped with a chronograph, daily alarm, and month,...

Hands On: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II Diamant SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 13, 2023

Hands On: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II Diamant

Much lauded at its launch last year, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) was originally available only in two guises of rose gold or platinum, each with a matching enamel now. Now Rexhep Rexhepi has quietly debuted a small run of the RRCC II in the same metals with gemstone hour markers to match. The platinum version features a black enamel dial with baguette-cut diamond indices that give it a stark, formal beauty. And the rose gold model has a cream enamel dial with ruby markers. Initial thoughts Discreetly glamorous gentlemen’s watches with diamond hour markers are a well established tradition in watchmaking, particularly so during the mid-20th century at high-end brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The new RRCC II is clearly a reference to such historical watches. Despite being a modern watch, and clearly recognisable as such, the diamond-set RRCC II manages to capture the subtle, elegant nature of its historical inspiration thanks to its compact case with graceful lugs inspired by vintage Patek Philippe models, including this ref. 2551. A possibly unique Patek Philippe ref. 2551 dating from 1957 with a white gold case and diamond indices that sold for almost CHF360,000 at Phillips in 2022 Interestingly, even though the RRCC II was not originally conceived as a gem-set watch, the dial accommodates the diamond hour markers perfectly. The glossy surface of the enamel dial complements the diamonds’ sparkle, while the alternating track ...

Dubai Watch Week Begins November 16, 2023 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet while independent watchmakers continue Nov 12, 2023

Dubai Watch Week Begins November 16, 2023

Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is the last major international event of the year’s horological calendar. Organised by Middle East retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, DWW takes place from November 16-20 at its traditional venue of the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). The event promises to be bigger and better than before, with exhibitors spanning the spectrum of watchmaking, from Rolex to Rexhep Rexhepi. From its origins as an event focused on niche and independent brands, DWW has grown to involve major marques. The exhibitors this year include Rolex and Audemars Piguet, while independent watchmakers continue to have a major presence. F.P. Journe, MB&F;, Urwerk, and Rexhepi Rexhepi are amongst the indies taking part. DWW founder Hind Seddiqi Many of the industry’s notable personalities will be Dubai Watch Week, with speakers including Frederic Grangie, head of Chanel’s watch and jewellery division; Francois-Henry Bennahmias, the outgoing chief executive of Audemars Piguet; and Jean Arnault, director of watches at Louis Vuitton. And independent watchmaking will have an equal share of the limelight, with Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, as well as Maximilian Büsser and Stephen McDonnell of MB&F; amongst the speakers. The event includes classes intended to give the public a taste of the watchmaking crafts. These include a gem setting workshop by Audemars Piguet and a miniature painting class by Louis Vuitton. DWW takes place from November 16-20, 2023 at DIFC. Entry is free but...

Recent Limited Editions: MAEN and BOLDR Creations with Worn & Wound Worn & Wound
Boldr Creations Nov 9, 2023

Recent Limited Editions: MAEN and BOLDR Creations with Worn & Wound

It’s been a busy year here at Worn & Wound and the Windup Watch Shop, and one of the most enjoyable aspects of being in this space is the ability to get creative and collaborate with our partners on exciting new products. Limited Editions, or LEs, allow creative juices to run wild while conceptualizing something on a smaller scale for those who are in the know. They also provide avenues for new folks to join the hobby and for everyone to have the chance to own something extra special. Two of our recent LEs are the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan and the BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3xT GMT. Offered at similar price points, these are two very different but equally intriguing collections – let’s take a closer look. It’s been a busy year here at Worn & Wound and the Windup Watch Shop, and one of the most enjoyable aspects of being in this space is the ability to get creative and collaborate with our partners on exciting new products. Limited Editions, or LEs, allow creative juices to run wild while conceptualizing something on a smaller scale for those who are in the know. They also provide avenues for new folks to join the hobby and for everyone to have the chance to own something extra special. Two of our recent LEs are the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan and the BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3xT GMT. Offered at similar price points, these are two very different but equally intriguing collections – let’s take a closer look. The post Recent Limited Editions: MAEN and BOLDR Creations ...

Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version Worn & Wound
Nomos Issues Nov 9, 2023

Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version

In their ongoing “175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte” series, Nomos has finally unveiled a watch that we’re frankly surprised has never existed before, but makes perfect sense right now. The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a precious metal limited edition version of what is indisputably the brand’s most iconic design. In any kind of celebratory context, you’d expect the Tangente to play a lead role, and now, after limited versions of the Orion and Ludwig, the Tangente gets its own luxurious turn.  The 175 Years campaign has actually been ongoing since 2020, when a trio of stainless steel Lambdas were introduced. That release was notable because the Lambda had always been available only in solid gold, so a steel version was of particular interest to Nomos collectors who prize the brand’s watches for their great value. This release, in a way, is the inverse of the Lambda limited editions, with a model that is very much associated with stainless steel being introduced in gold. It makes a lot of sense for the Tangente, often cited as the most directly Bauhaus inspired watch in the Nomos catalog, to get this kind of treatment. In steel the straight lugs matched with the circular case appear almost severe, but the whole package has a warmer and more inviting sensibility in rose gold. It still looks delicate and impossibly precise, now just with a notably more luxe feel.  The dial for this version is inspired by early watches made in Glashütte, and beyond tying this r...

Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR 03 Former Olympic Nov 8, 2023

Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03

Former Olympic cycling coach Dave Brailsford once said, “If you broke down everything you could think of that goes into riding a bike, and then improved it by 1%, you will get a significant increase when you put them all together”. The new Bell & Ross BR 03 features several small tweaks to its most iconic line of watches, and although not every modification is objectively ‘better’, the combination of all of the changes give us a watch that somehow feels less intense and therefore significantly more wearable. I’ve spent some time with the new BR 03 Military Ceramic to work out just what makes it feel so different. On the face of it, not much has changed. A reduction in case diameter from 42mm all the way down to 41mm isn’t earth-shattering. Without seeing the two side by side you would be hard-pressed to know which one you are looking at. The other case changes are just as subtle. The shape has been altered slightly to round the corners a little more. The introduction of the BR 05 in 2019 saw a much softer ‘square’ shape from Bell and Ross. The new BR 03 remains much closer to the square instrument panel shape the brand is famous for, but the silhouette reshaping is one of those 1% changes mentioned above. $4300 Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Case Micro Blasted ceramic Movement BR-CAL.302 Dial Khaki Lume Numerals and hands Lens Sapphire Strap Khaki rubber Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 41 x 50mm Thickness 10.6mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Pu...