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#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance. Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2020

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance.

Editor’s note: Andrew here. And of course I’m chiming in because I’m nervous. Which is a polite word for the Australian equivalent: shitscared. For example, if I Google ‘workhorse’ on Time+Tide (which I’m frankly too terrified to do), there will almost certainly be 100 responses. If I Google ‘beater’, perhaps several hundred. We are guilty … ContinuedThe post #shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar Nov 6, 2020

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII

Taking place over two days – Friday, November 6 and Saturday, November 7 – The Geneva Watch Auction: XII at Phillips is the first sale of the fall auction season. A compact sale of under 180 lots, the auction comprises a diverse line up, ranging from the obviously notable – like a Cartier Crash in platinum and a unique Patek Philippe ref. 5020P – to the obscure but extremely interesting, like the postwar A. Lange & Söhne wristwatch made after the company had been nationalised by the Soviets, as well as a vintage Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar with a paradoxical brand-new but factory-original case. Here’s a look at handful of standouts from the sale. You’ll find the full catalogue, as well as online bidding, right here. Lot 31 – Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator ref. 5235G Unlike many of the other watches in the auction, the ref. 5235G is neither rare nor complicated, or even especially valuable. But it is an under-appreciated gem in Patek Philippe’s line up. Lightly designed and full of unusual details – ranging from the brushed dial finish to the engraved logo at three – the ref. 5235 also boasts a distinctively-designed movement unique to this reference and found in no other model. This example of the ref. 5235 is in white gold, which was discontinued last year and replaced by the same in rose gold with a black dial. While the new version is far more striking, the almost monochromatic white gold version is deeply appealing in its simplici...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The five most inflated Rolex references may surprise you, and plenty more Time+Tide
Rolex references may surprise you Nov 5, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The five most inflated Rolex references may surprise you, and plenty more

If you read Time+Tide regularly, you’ll know that stainless steel Rolex watches are almost exclusively more expensive on the secondary market than they are at retail. This isn’t a new phenomenon, though it does seem to have taken on a new life with the advent of the “waiting list”, an ethereal allocation system that Rolex … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The five most inflated Rolex references may surprise you, and plenty more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insider critique: The Omega Speedmaster Snoopy 50th Anniversary with hands-on and live pics Deployant
Omega Speedmaster Snoopy 50th Anniversary Nov 5, 2020

Insider critique: The Omega Speedmaster Snoopy 50th Anniversary with hands-on and live pics

We covered the launch of the Omega Speedmaster Snoopy 50th Anniversary with our insights and commentary earlier. And the watch made it to our shores recently, and we got up close and personal it for a photo session and hands-on. Here are our photographs. This is the third in the Snoopy Award series by Omega,Read More

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ ‘Retrospective: 2000 – 2020’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5970. And Nov 5, 2020

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ ‘Retrospective: 2000 – 2020’

Taking place this weekend as a live auction with only cameras, telephones, and online bidding, Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 is a thematic sale that happens the day after Phillips’ Geneva watch auction. The second sale curated with Blackbird, both the publisher of a watch magazine as well as the agent for Ferrari in Hong Kong, Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 is self explanatory: contemporary wristwatches produced in the past 20 years. The 95 lots that make up the sale are a selection of the important, interesting, and intriguing from the last two decades, including obvious candidates like the Rolex Daytona and Patek Philippe ref. 5970. And the sale also includes notable watches that usually go under the radar, like the Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots (which is possibly the most accurate Swiss-made mechanical watch of the 21st century). The Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727 (lot 258) Importantly, the line up also encompasses a diverse selection of independent watchmaking, reflecting the rise of these niche watchmakers. Here’s a roundup of highlights from independent watchmakers, which include the Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary and the ultra-rare Opus Eleven. The selection includes the worthy Seiko Credor Eichi II and Lange 1 25th Anniversary. Neither comes from an independent watchmaker, but both are as close as it gets for establishment brands. Lot 206 – Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary No. 00/20 Philippe Dufour...

Rado Captain Cook Green Dial Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Green Dial Nov 5, 2020

Rado Captain Cook Green Dial Review

Rado’s Captain Cook collection is by far one of the brands most iconic lines, a watch, as they say, designed to stand the test of time. Back when Rado released the first Captain Cook model, the Swiss Brand wasn’t known or associated with dive watches. Many of the watch brands back in the day attempted to delve into the different categories of watchmaking to expand their horizons, and Rado was no different. Typically being a dress watchmaker, Rado designed and released their first dive watch, the Captain Cook timepiece, in 1962. Captain Cook Green dial reference R32105313 The name Captain Cook was of course given to honour the explorer Captain Cook. The original 1962 Captain Cook was a serious dive watch, with a case built to survive approximately 220m of watch depth. Back in 2017, Rado re-released the 1962 Captain Cook model with a 1:1 recreation of the original, all with updated movement and materials. The design of the 2017 watch was kept the same as the original, as they retained the 37mm case sizing, red numeral on date wheel, shape of hour indices and hands, down to the spinning anchor at 12’clock position. The watch community loved this re-edition of what is a classic dive watch upon its release. With the watch becoming popular, Rado decided to make multiple iterations of the Captain Cook, with many different versions with different coloured dials being released.  Earlier this year, Rado released a new variation of the Captain Cook, with the new timepiece now ...

The Louis Vuitton 2020 Collection delivers flying tourbillons, gem-set cases and some very special spinning cubes Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton 2020 Collection delivers flying Nov 5, 2020

The Louis Vuitton 2020 Collection delivers flying tourbillons, gem-set cases and some very special spinning cubes

Louis Vuitton are best known today for their leather goods, and historically for their travel trunks, but when it comes to watchmaking, most aren’t aware of the work they do. Of course, having such a well-recognised brand globally is a double-edged sword, where Louis Vuitton bags are desired all over the world, but the quality … ContinuedThe post The Louis Vuitton 2020 Collection delivers flying tourbillons, gem-set cases and some very special spinning cubes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Depth: Petermann Bédat 1967 Deadbeat Seconds SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat Nov 4, 2020

In Depth: Petermann Bédat 1967 Deadbeat Seconds

Formed only recently by two young watchmakers, Petermann Bédat’s very first timepiece is the 1967, a time-only wristwatch featuring an elaborate deadbeat seconds mechanism. Unusually, the brand made its debut in a gradual manner, having shown its first prototype in 2018 before launching the final version of its debut watch earlier this year. Even more unusually, the successive iterations of the 1967 progressively improved, in both style and finish, to a point where the production version of the watch is simply marvellous. Initial thoughts When I saw a prototype of the 1967 last year, I didn’t think much of the design, but the movement was clearly well done, even in as a half-finished prototype. Rather than massaging the earlier design into better shape, Petermann Bedat ditched it in favour of what you see here. Best described as a modern take on the fashionably retro “sector” dial, the dial looks good and also shows off the brilliant finishing. The decoration visible on the front hints at the quality of work, and the movement visible from the back confirms it. In the smallest details the greatest finesse is visible, in the sharp points of the deadbeat seconds anchor or the escape wheel bridge below the balance. Crucially, the watch pictured is a prototype – amongst other things, the hands are incorrect and the wheels for the deadbeat seconds mechanism are not perfectly finished – yet it is obvious the quality of execution is excellent. Beyond its tangible qua...

NOT ON MY WATCH: For the love of Mary, make watches small again. All the reasons I hate big watches… Time+Tide
Nov 4, 2020

NOT ON MY WATCH: For the love of Mary, make watches small again. All the reasons I hate big watches…

As times change, the perception of the perfect fit evolves. When wristwatches were created, they were lauded for finally miniaturising the timepiece and making it a compact wearable object versus a large item that had to rest in a pocket. Now it seems, like American politics, the watch community is split in two: one party … ContinuedThe post NOT ON MY WATCH: For the love of Mary, make watches small again. All the reasons I hate big watches… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The new TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial is a contemporary take on the classic racing watch Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial Nov 3, 2020

VIDEO: The new TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial is a contemporary take on the classic racing watch

If, like me, you love the svelte lines and sharp details of the vintage Heuer Carrera, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial chronograph (available for purchase here) is a reliable, sleek modern rendition. This is faithful to the lineage, in a contemporary 42mm. The deep blue dial blends formality with the clear motorsports … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The new TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial is a contemporary take on the classic racing watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Barrelhand Introduces the Project 1 SJX Watches
Urwerk Nov 3, 2020

Barrelhand Introduces the Project 1

A watch brand founded by in San Francisco by a young mechanical engineer, Barrelhand’s first wristwatch is the Project 1. Inspired by Urwerk, the hand-wound Project 1 tells the time unconventionally via jumping hours and linear minutes. And it is made up of components produced with cost-effective 3D printing, resulting in a retail price of US$30,000 – reasonably accessible  as such things go. Initial thoughts I first encountered the work of Barrelhand founder Karel Bachand in 2014, when he created a replica of the Urwerk UR-202 in 3D-printed plastic. He’s spent the intervening years developing his own wristwatch, and the result is impressive, especially in its conception and smart engineering. The time display is inventive, particularly the linear minutes that’s driven by a large rotating disc resembling a vinyl record. Though the jumping hours is more ordinary, it is driven by an extra-large Maltese cross gear instead of a conventional lever-and-star-wheel set up, making it adjustable forwards and backwards (though it will not jump as instantaneously due to how the Maltese cross gear works). And the techniques used to produce many of the parts are unusual, probably reflecting Mr Bachand mechanical engineering background. The large steel lugs, for example, are produced via binder jet 3D printing. The Project 1 doesn’t have the refinement of visually-similar Swiss watches – many of its surfaces are only modestly finished – but it costs substantially less, so ...

Bulgari continues their year of giving back with the Aluminium Tricolore limited series on behalf of three Italian children’s hospitals Time+Tide
Bulgari continues their year Nov 3, 2020

Bulgari continues their year of giving back with the Aluminium Tricolore limited series on behalf of three Italian children’s hospitals

Editor’s note: Bulgari leapt to the aid of Australia earlier in the year, when they donated a glorious Serpenti to our Watch & Act! Auction in aid of the Australian bushfires. It turns out it wasn’t out of character. Since then the brand has shown tremendous moral leadership through 2020, and it continues with this … ContinuedThe post Bulgari continues their year of giving back with the Aluminium Tricolore limited series on behalf of three Italian children’s hospitals appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

David Oscarson Sea Turtle Pens: Lift Your Mood With Smiling Turtles And Summer Quill & Pad
Nov 2, 2020

David Oscarson Sea Turtle Pens: Lift Your Mood With Smiling Turtles And Summer

David Oscarson’s use of guilloche and fired enamel to create the exquisite designs on his pens is his well-established hallmark, and over two decades he has brought compelling and often thought-provoking topics to pictorial life with clarity and artistic flair. His latest collection features sea turtles all the way down, providing us with just a whiff of the bygone summer.

Review: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph with Smoked Dial – A New Dress Code Deployant
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph Nov 2, 2020

Review: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph with Smoked Dial – A New Dress Code

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph with Smoked Dial When it comes to marketing gaffes in the watchmaking scene, few come close to being as memorable as the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 launch back in 2019. Long story short, the illustrious Swiss brand hyped the line so far up the stratosphere only to go outRead More

RECOMMENDED READING: Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry Time+Tide
Nov 2, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry

Whether you like it or not, the Apple Watch is here to stay and has proven itself the most popular wristwatch in the world. A watch for all people, whether working class, a professional athlete, or celebrity … everyone has seemed to hop on the Apple bandwagon. But is that really any surprise? The reality … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bausele is the official watch provider of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary with two historically inspired designs Time+Tide
Bausele Nov 2, 2020

Bausele is the official watch provider of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary with two historically inspired designs

There aren’t many watch brands that can proudly claim to be Australian, but Bausele is one of the select few. Founded by Christophe Hoppe in 2011, Bausele have just announced their partnership with the RAAF to produce two watches that will celebrate the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary in 2021. It is exciting news that … ContinuedThe post Bausele is the official watch provider of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary with two historically inspired designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rimowa Introduces the Rimowa Watch Case SJX Watches
Oct 31, 2020

Rimowa Introduces the Rimowa Watch Case

Famous for its stamped aluminium luggage that’s has become a status symbol of sorts, Rimowa has just unveiled the Rimowa Watch Case. Like its signature suitcases, Rimowa’s watch box is made of matte aluminium with parallel grooves and also steeply priced, with a retail of just over US$2,000. Initial thoughts The utility of Rimowa’s aluminium luggage – namely its robustness – doesn’t feature in a watch case, since watch storage doesn’t need to be particularly robust. In fact, the weight of the case – 1.29 kg, or about 2.84 lbs – makes it ironically impractical for travelling. The distinctive all-aluminium aesthetic, however, does translate well into ultra-premium storage for three watches. And premium the watch case is. Rimowa’s diversification is no surprise, especially since the brand was acquired by French luxury conglomerate LVMH in 2016. And watch accessories are particularly sensible, because of the price premiums that can be charged for such accessories. Compare the price of a watch strap to a belt strap by the same maker for instance. The case is disproportionately more expensive compared to Rimowa’s aluminium luggage. In fact, the watch case costs almost 50% more than Rimowa’s largest check-in luggage in aluminium. It doesn’t make sense from a value perspective, but the watch case is cool, especially for someone who appreciates Rimowa’s aesthetic. Pressed, matte, and silvery The watch case is made in Italy, unlike Rimowa’s primary l...

Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro Time+Tide
Oris ed dealer Oct 31, 2020

Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro

Within the watch community, you will hear the phrase “in the metal” a fair bit. With some watches it is as simple as paying a quick visit to an authorised dealer to become more acclimated with a watch. However, not all watches are available to view in-store – and no, this is not a conversation … ContinuedThe post Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is… Time+Tide
Oct 31, 2020

You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is…

The people have spoken, and it is clear that within the Fantasy Watch Collection 10K I was the people’s champion. I take great pride in my victory, listening to Queen’s “We Are the Champions” as I type this story. But I recognise I could not have won without your support, and thank you, the readers, … ContinuedThe post You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ressence Introduces the Type 5X Automobili Amos SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Oct 30, 2020

Ressence Introduces the Type 5X Automobili Amos

Conceived to mark the brand’s 10th anniversary, the “X” series of watches is a quartet of models that started with the Type 1 Slim X, and now continues with the brand-new Type 5X Automobili Amos. Equipped with a bezel to measure turbocharged engine warming and cooling times, the Type 5X is the result of a collaboration between Ressence and Italian race-car driver Eugenio Amos. Husband to a member of the Missoni fashion dynasty, Mr Amos’ namesake company is best known for the Lancia Delta Futurista “restomod”, a race car based on the 1980s Lancia Delta, a car famous for dominating the World Rally Championship in the late 1980s. The concept is similar to what Singer Vehicle Design is doing for the Porsche 911 (specifically the 964 of the early 1990s); Singer, as it happens, has its own line of wristwatches. Initial thoughts The Type 5X is a good-looking variation of the standard Type 5. The tweaks to the typography, colours, and bezel are attractive. But it has a narrow appeal, basically car enthusiasts who appreciate the history of the Lancia Delta and that era of automobile racing. Because it costs not much more than the standard model, the Type 5X is probably a no brainer for anyone who does appreciate that history. But for anyone else it is a bit too esoteric. The Lancia Delta Futurista More broadly, the strengths and weaknesses of the Type 5X are the same as those of the standard model. The watch is ingenious, inventive, and truly unique, while possessing e...

Nomos Introduces the Club Campus 38 #NomiesForLife SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Oct 30, 2020

Nomos Introduces the Club Campus 38 #NomiesForLife

Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers has worked with Nomos on a regular basis to create its own limited editions, with the latest being the Club Campus 38 #NomiesForLife. While earlier Ace editions incorporated local elements like the Dutch capital’s coat of arms and the work of Piet Mondrian, the new edition resulted from a collaboration with a Dutch Nomos enthusiast who also started a community on Instagram for like-minded collectors, @nomiesforlife. Named after the Instagram channel, the new edition is a more sombre iteration of the usually colourful Club Campus, done in high contrast black and white, accented with pale blue. Initial thoughts Ace Jewelers has plenty of Nomos limited editions under its belt – this Club Campus is the second launch this year – which might seem one too many. In fact, the new model is rather similar to an earlier edition, but with red replaced by blue. That said, the “NomiesForLife” edition is appealing, mostly owing to the colours and pronounced affordability – the retail price is under US$1,400. Clean and more restrained compared to the standard Club Campus, the new edition nonetheless retains the “California” dial, which gives it a fun, retro style that’s helped by the blue accents. Basically it caters to anyone who likes the Club Campus for its accessible price and sporty-ish style, but prefers a more understated look. And the new edition is even more affordable than the standard models in relative terms: though priced ex...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sydney shark attacks, steel sports watches and the Serica 4512 Time+Tide
Serica 4512 It’s fair Oct 29, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sydney shark attacks, steel sports watches and the Serica 4512

It’s fair to say that Andrew has been in the game a little while now. He’s spoken to more than his fair share of weird and wonderful people for Time+Tide, from Hollywood actors and directors, to watch ambassadors and even the man behind the Apple Watch. It takes someone pretty special to raise his heart … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sydney shark attacks, steel sports watches and the Serica 4512 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.