Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hamilton’s Iconic Field Watch Gets a Quiet but Clever Upgrade
Hamilton updates its Khaki Field Mechanical with a power reserve indicator for the first time. Discover how this complication enhances the iconic field watch.
Results for Equation of Time
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2025
With a strong set of releases from this year's Geneva Watch Days, our editors pick their favorites.
Time+Tide
L.Leroy is staging another comeback with the complicated Osmior Bal du Temps
Leroy returns to high-end watchmaking, reviving the Osmior collection with a tourbillon and a minute repeater all in one.The post L.Leroy is staging another comeback with the complicated Osmior Bal du Temps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko SNE573 Review: The Discontinued Prospex 38.5mm Solar Diver
Seiko divers might very well be some of the most sought-after in the enthusiast community. I say “enthusiast” because they aren’t always the entry point into Seiko, or into watches, for that matter, for the everyday consumer. I would think something like an entry-level Presage or any watch fit for the office is more desired in that regard. But, we don’t call them desk divers for nothing, and I personally have worn and still wear Seiko divers to work, but that’s neither here nor there. In fact, the same can be said of the subject watch for today’s review: The Seiko SNE573 as well as other variants of the 38.5mm Prospex Solar Divers like the SNE583 and SNE585, which were discontinued this past Summer. Its discontinuation adds it to a hallowed list of watches that have received similar treatment by Seiko, namely the vaunted SKX series, which has achieved iconic status rivaled by a small few watches in history. But we can also add a bevvy of Willard-esque Prospex models to the list including the SPB 153 green Willard – a personal favorite. When a Seiko dive watch goes the way of the trees, it achieves a kind of immortality and heightened demand that takes a once value-packed product into a new pricing universe, but less talk about price and more talk about a handsome piece of solar diving kit that is no longer commercially available in an official capacity at retail. Seiko SNE573 Brief History I use the word “brief” because, well, this watch had quite a short...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, and Gear: Moriarty Watches, Beachmaster Quartz, Borderlands 4, and Moleskine’s new collection
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Moriarty Watches Hailing from southwestern Ireland, Moriarty Watches is turning up the heat, literally. “Maybe it was a complete bout of madness diving into this crazy rabbit hole at the age of 44 and trying to get my little dream to become a reality,” said Allison in a recent New York Times article. After receiving an unfortunate diagnosis at 35, Allison began repairing watches from her home workshop, but found herself “obsessed” with Patek Phillipe Enamel dials. From designing the case, crown, and hands, hand regulating each movement in house, and creating each dial, Allison ensures each watch is “99.99 percent” perfect before it leaves her shop. Crafted by either “dry sift” or “wet pack” each dial can take up to 40 hours to complete, with “lots of room for things to go wrong”. More details on Allison’s watches and a full interview is currently available on the New York Times’ website. Expanding the Beachmaster Quartz Collection British watchmaker Elliot Brown Watches has announced its newest expansion to the Beachmaster Quartz family, adding two new dial options for the model. “From D-Day inspiration to daily use, the Beachmaster ...
Deployant
New: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium
Unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2025, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium marks a new chapter in the brand’s ongoing exploration of mechanical and material innovation. Limited to just 50 pieces, this 43mm timepiece features a ruthenium-based Crystalium hour disc-each one uniquely formed through a vapor-deposition crystallization process. Priced at CHF 40,000, the watch pairs its shimmering dial with a black DLC-coated titanium case and the automatic UN-230 flying carousel movement.
Fratello
News From Schwarz Etienne: A Personal View On The 1902 Collection
Since August last year, Schwarz Etienne has had a new CEO. His name is Florian Brossard. I don’t know if this name means anything to you, but it means a lot to me. I have been following his way through the watch industry for a while. The first time I met Florian Brossard was at […] Visit News From Schwarz Etienne: A Personal View On The 1902 Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles
The Hermès H08 is a remarkable success story. Emerging from the traditional and complex designs of the maison’s catalog, the cushion-shaped H08 in titanium seamlessly cut through the crowd. And the sports-watch segment is indeed crowded. Yet, the H08 takes the history of the brand’s multifaceted design approach and boils it down into a wearable […] Visit The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - Porsche Unleashes its New 911 Turbo S
Seven hundred and eleven horsepower… SEVEN hundred and eleven… Let that sink in for a moment. I’ll wait. With it, the 911 has come a very long way from the modest 130bhp of the very first ones. The mad scientists employed by Porsche have managed to squeeze a never-before-seen amount of power from the 911’s […]
Time+Tide
Micromilspec aims skyward with its new Pilot Worldtimer
Building upon the Milgraph from 2024, Micromilspec launches its new Pilot series with the Pilot Worldtimer for Geneva Watch Days 2025.The post Micromilspec aims skyward with its new Pilot Worldtimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Audemars Piguet (AP) shrinks its innovative new perpetual calendar movement, reflecting the industry-wide shift towards more compact sizing. The scaled-down model arrives in two models to start: the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm ref. 26684 loses the controversial week-of-the-year indicator, while the Code 11:59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm ref. 26441 retains the pointer. Notably, the marketing for the new 38 mm models implies a more feminine target audience, but the appeal of a mid-sized Royal Oak perpetual transcends gender. Initial Thoughts The march towards smaller sizes continues. Regardless of the client’s gender, it helps that Audemars Piguet has a real winner here, with a user-friendly movement that is also extremely technically interesting, contained inside the iconic and very well built Royal Oak case. Pricing is relatively reasonable as well – US$110,000 in stainless steel hardly screams “good deal” but is fair against the wider market. The absence of a 52-week scale on the Royal Oak 38 mm models is necessitated by the narrower dial and differentiates the 38 mm from the 41 mm. Many will welcome this change given the niche nature of a week indicator, though the result is arguably less distinct from the many other sub-dial-centric perpetual calendars on the market. Also, a matching 38 mm and 41 mm pair in the same colourway would be cute, and a missed opportunity. Compact Case At 38 mm, this is the smallest Royal Oak perpetual calen...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Another Vintage Seiko LCD, an Omega DeVille, and a Gorgeous 1950s Bulova
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille Starting you off this week with a classic vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille. This isn’t one of the “fat lug” 1950s style, it is a 1960s dress watch version that is timeless and classy. The 34mm steel case is crisp and unpolished, with sharp edges and a really nicely preserved Hippocampus medallion on the back. The silver dial looks perfect and original, with steel stick markers and hands. No date window to mar the beautiful symmetry. The crown is the correct style and is signed with the Omega logo as it should. The case is the front-loading type, so no movement pictures. View auction here Vintage 1958 Bulova Here’s a nice vintage 1958 Bulova with a 23 jewel movement adjusted to six positions. Bulova made several different style watches with this exceptionally well made movement. They were adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism and in three different positions, basically Chronometer grade standards without the title. Nice gold plated case that looks super clean, with a beautiful crème dial that has a sunburst pattern. The crown is signed with the Bulova name as it should. Great vintage piece with an above average movement and should have a below averag...
Monochrome
First Look - The Sporty-Chic Hermès H08 Returns in Titanium with Signature Hermès Colours
When Hermès launched its sporty cushion-shaped H08 men’s watch four years ago, it was welcomed with open arms – and not just among Hermès devotees. Characteristic of the brand’s flair for enigmatic shapes, the H08 is a playful juxtaposition of shapes highlighted with different finishes and textures. Continuing the success story, the H08 collection expands […]
Worn & Wound
Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics)
The inaugural watch by haute Swiss independent Berneron, the Mirage 38, had a markedly poetic design. With a free-flowing case shape, twisting hands, and a distorted dial, it would be easy to consider it as a design of pure aesthetics. Looks deceived, however, as the form was driven by a movement concept that rejected the standard circular shape, allowing for a large barrel, and thus a 72-hour power reserve in a small and thin body. Nevertheless, the outcome was undoubtedly one of whimsy, where evocative design outweighed pure function, if there was a clever horological backing. Often, brands, especially young ones, stick to a theme to carve a niche for themselves within a crowded industry, but that’s not the approach of Berneron. For the brand’s second model, announced just before Geneva Watch Days, whimsy is nowhere in sight. Instead, the brand made a sharp turn into practicality and legibility, if through a decidedly haute lens. Titled the Quantième Annuel, it has a design that verges on the traditional, especially compared to the Mirage. The first model within their “quantième” collection, which will house their complicated pieces, the QA is an annual calendar jump hour with a design driven by logic in terms of how it is read, the movement architecture, and how it is set. The flow of the dial is meant to be top to bottom, left to right. Following that order, time is read hour, minute, second, and the day, date, and month. The hour is digital, as it is a jump ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing
Many factors go into the purchase of a new watch - from pricing to colorway to the choice of movement and materials - but perhaps none are more make-or-break for most consumers than sizing. Watches, of course, being three-dimensional objects, there are multiple areas of measurement to consider, though most watch brands tend to narrow it down to the two most basic: the diameter (or in the case of non-round watches, the dimensions) of the main case and the case’s overall thickness, i.e. how high it will rise on the wrist. However, neither of these accounts fully for how large or small the watch will wear on the wrist. For that, you will need the lug-to-lug measurement, sometimes referred to more simply as the “length,” with the diameter deemed in shorthand as the “width.” The lugs, sometimes called “horns,” are the protruding parts of the case that connect it to the bracelet or strap. The distance from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom lugs is perhaps the most important factor that affects not only how large the watch “wears” on the wrist but also how comfortable it is. (This measurement should not be confused with another occasionally listed stat, the “lug width.” The latter, which is perhaps most useful for those looking to swap out other straps or bracelets on their watch, refers to the distance between the lugs on each side of the case, i.e., the span in which the strap or bracelet fits inside them. If a watch has a lug width of...
Fratello
Introducing: The Echo/Neutra Averau 42 - Ceramic Meets Titanium In A Tool-Ready Package
Echo/Neutra has been carving out its little corner of the watch world since 2018. The brand’s founders, Nicola Callegaro and Cristiano Quaglia, blend Italian design sensibilities with Swiss-made execution, and the catalog has steadily grown from vintage-inspired field watches to elegant titanium dress pieces. The new Averau 42, however, is a different beast altogether. It’s […] Visit Introducing: The Echo/Neutra Averau 42 - Ceramic Meets Titanium In A Tool-Ready Package to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A History and Guide to Laco
Located in the southwest of Germany in Baden-Württemburg, Pforzheim is built at the confluence of three rivers. In the eighteenth century, the city became a hub of jewelry making, with watchmaking experiencing a pronounced revival in the early twentieth century, resulting in Pforzheim’s nickname of the “Goldstadt,” or “Golden City.” Founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel in 1925, Lacher & Co., today known as Laco Uhrenmanufaktur GmbH, played a significant role in this expansion of German watchmaking. Their aim was simple - produce watches of quality and reliability. The pair split a few years later, with Hummel remaining with the watch production side. While many German watchmakers relied on Swiss movements, Hummel chose a different direction. He founded Deutsche Uhren Roh Werke (Durowe) in 1933, dedicated to the manufacture of movements to become independent from Swiss calibers. Located in the southwest of Germany in Baden-Württemburg, Pforzheim is built at the confluence of three rivers. In the eighteenth century, the city became a hub of jewelry making, with watchmaking experiencing a pronounced revival in the early twentieth century, resulting in Pforzheim’s nickname of the “Goldstadt,” or “Golden City.” Founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel in 1925, Lacher & Co., today known as Laco Uhrenmanufaktur GmbH, played a significant role in this expansion of German watchmaking. Their aim was simple - produce watches of quality and reliabilit...
Monochrome
First Look - The Glistening MeisterSinger Pangaea Aventurine
MeisterSinger is well known for its single-handed collections with popular lines like ?01 & ?03 and Neo with their classic styling and accessible prices. The latest Pangaea Aventurine model takes the best of the above collections and adds a starry nighttime vibe and a stylised, classic needle-shaped hand (the latter from the 365 series). The […]
Time+Tide
The minor upgrade that sealed the deal on the Tudor Black Bay 58 for me
The BB58 is almost perfect, except for one crucial detail - but here's how to fix it.The post The minor upgrade that sealed the deal on the Tudor Black Bay 58 for me appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Panerai Revives the Luminor 5218
There were few brands as hot as Panerai in the 2000s, and now the brand is revisiting its glory days with the Luminor Marina Militare 44 mm PAM05218. Visually, the PAM05218 a faithful remake of the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A of 1993, a “Pre-Vendome” model that became one of the most desirable watches of the 2000s. The watch retains the same design and many of the details, including the “non matching” hands, but has been upgraded with modern amenities, including a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating for the case and a three-day movement. Initial thoughts Enthusiasts who were in the hobby in the 2000s will remember the frenzy around Panerai, which was probably the fastest growing brand during the period. Many models sold over retail, sometimes for multiples. The “vintage” models like the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A were even more valuable; it cost a healthy, mid-five figures at the time. In fact, the ref. 5218-202/A cost more than an F.P. Journe Resonance at the time. In retrospect, most of it was comical yet also seems familiar given the happenings in recent years. Times have changed, but the PAM05218 is essentially unchanged from the original – which is great for those who appreciate the functional, stark design of Panerai’s core models. I like those designs, and I like the PAM05218. If there’s one Panerai in the current catalogue I would buy, it is this one. At a distance, the PAM05218 is indistinguishable from the original, but up close it is clearly a new watc...
Monochrome
News - Rolex to Release its Second Authorized Book “Oyster Perpetual Datejust - A Watch that Made History”
Exactly one year ago, Rolex, with the help of author Nicholas Foulkes and publisher Wallpaper, took us by surprise when releasing the first-ever Crown-authorised book, The History of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Watch. While such initiatives have been done on multiple occasions by other brands, a historical book receiving the stamp of approval of Rolex […]
Time+Tide
Bulgari & Lee Ufan scratch out a new look for the Octo Finissimo (live pics)
Bulgari collaborates with Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan on an eye-catching Octo Finissimo with a hand-filled titanium case.The post Bulgari & Lee Ufan scratch out a new look for the Octo Finissimo (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Watch Collaborations
Another Friday, another top 5. During and after last week’s Geneva Watch Days (GWD), we covered plenty of exciting releases here on Fratello. Some of the watches that always grab our attention during GWD are the crazy collaborations. Last year, we saw the incredible collaborative effort of Studio Underd0g and H. Moser & Cie. that […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Watch Collaborations to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Vibrant Stone Dials for the 38mm Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon
If there were a concise guide to the latest trends in watchmaking, it would likely feature compact unisex case sizes, vibrant colours and stone dials. Bang on trend, Audemars Piguet’s latest trilogy of compact 38mm Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon models flaunts vibrant-coloured stone dials sourced from around the world. As part of the brand’s […]
Fratello
Get Ready For MACH: A Place To Showcase Horological Heritage, Transmit Know-How, And Raise Awareness
The world of horology is an emotional parallel universe where those who love watches can make them their livelihood. Now, it seems that watch brands, organizations, and media have realized that this universe can only continue to exist if the knowledge and appreciation of it continue to grow and evolve. Marc André Deschoux, who started […] Visit Get Ready For MACH: A Place To Showcase Horological Heritage, Transmit Know-How, And Raise Awareness to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Which Wrist Do Ladies Wear Watches On?
I don’t think it's any secret that, statistically speaking, our audience leans more towards men. But if you couldn’t already tell by a quick glance at my author photo, I am, in fact, a girl. Thus, today’s article is in part inspired by a desire to add a bit more of a feminine touch to the content we typically do, and in part to answer to a growing number of questions (such as "which wrist do ladies wear watches on?") the team and I have been getting relating to first steps towards starting a watch collection from the girls out there – either asked by the ladies themselves, or from partners and family members trying to induct their loved ones into the cult of watches. Below, I’ll break down some common questions aimed at those just dipping their toes into the watch-collecting hobby, and share some personal musings and philosophies I approach when building a collection, as a young(ish), scrappy girl in the industry myself. I’ve also had some of the lovely ladies from the Teddy team share wristshots from their own collection for added color, flavor, and fun! So, where do I start? Beginnings are exciting, but they can also come with some unexpected terror as you come face-to-face with the unknown. As with any new hobby or learning something new, the initial confrontation with all the information is bound to be somewhat (or very) overwhelming. Personally, when I first began dipping my toes into watches, I experienced something akin to vertigo, teetering on the e...
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Impressive Berneron Quantième Annuel
If he had already spent years working for some of the biggest names in the watch industry, Sylvain Berneron truly made a name for himself on the independent watchmaking scene in 2023 with the launch of the first watch under his own brand. The unapologetically elegant and original Mirage – a shaped watch with an […]
Teddy Baldassarre
What is a GMT Watch?
GMT watches, and other types of watches with useful complications for travelers, are enjoying a surge of popularity these days, with watchmakers large and small stepping up to produce travel watches with both user-friendly mechanics and attractive design, at a variety of price points. Yet, if you’re new to the watch game, you still might be a bit curious about what is a GMT watch, how to read and set them, and how one style differs from another. In this feature, we attempt to address all the pertinent questions you may want answered before purchasing a GMT or any style of watch with the ability to show multiple time zones. What is a GMT watch? GMT is the abbreviation for “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. Established in 1884 at the International Meridian Conference, the Prime Meridian was conceived as a straight line running from the North Pole to the South Pole directly through Greenwich, serving as the point of zero degrees longitude from which 24 separate time zones divide the Earth: the Eastern Time Zone of the United States, for example, is designated as GMT -5 (i.e., five hours west of Greenwich, which is GMT 0). A GMT watch is essentially a timekeeper designed in that same utilitarian spirit, allowing its wearer to read the time in at least two time zones simultaneously. Many such watches actually use the initials “GMT” in their model names, whi...
Time+Tide
Jaeger‑LeCoultre brings Xu Beihong’s horses to the Reverso in enamel
Enamel over hand‑guilloché pairs with miniature grand feu enamel horse art.The post Jaeger‑LeCoultre brings Xu Beihong’s horses to the Reverso in enamel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
DOXA Expands the SUB 750T Collection
Last week, DOXA unveiled an update to one of their most popular references – the SUB 750T. First introduced in 2002, the 750T was conceived as a diver’s companion with oversized proportions, professional-level depth rating, and (due to its large size) a real presence on the wrist. Nearly two decades later, the newest iteration of the SUB 750T arrives with a familiar profile, but maybe a bit more pared down – and upgraded – than its predecessor. Like I said, this is a big watch. Clocking in at 45mm across and 47mm lug-to-lug, this isn’t a watch that’s going to be demurely tucked under your shirt sleeve. Even so, DOXA has counterbalanced the size by reducing the model to just under 12mm in height. In contrast, the original reference clocked in at 14mm; and while you may not think that the 2mm differential would be noticeable–trust us, it is. That reduction takes away some of the added bulk that makes such a large watch just feel overwhelming and makes the DOXA SUB 750T that much more wearable. It’s not just the case size which has been improved, DOXA added eight colorways (Professional Orange, Sharkhunter Black, Whitepearl White, Searambler Silver Grey, Caribbean Navy Blue, Divingstar Yellow, Aquamarine Turquoise, and the new Sea Emerald Dark Green) to this particular model. Each is available on either a rubber strap color-matched to the dial or the brand’s classic beads of rice bracelet, making for 16 total options to choose from. On the technical side...