Deployant
Invitation: Roger Smith opens his workshop in exclusive virtual event
Your invite to the Open Dial Event: Roger Smith takes you behind the scenes into his workshops and answers your questions.
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Deployant
Your invite to the Open Dial Event: Roger Smith takes you behind the scenes into his workshops and answers your questions.
Time+Tide
Almost a year to the day since Dave made headlines at the annual Brit Awards for his heartfelt performance of hit single Black, Britain’s hottest rapper has got the watch world excited about his wristwear once again. At the Brits, he was wearing head to toe Louis Vuitton by Virgil Abloh with a rose-gold Audemars … ContinuedThe post UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
How do you celebrate 60 years? By scratching the piss out of a steel dial, encasing it in a near indestructible case, and selling it to the public. Obviously.
Quill & Pad
"The watch industry today would be nothing without women," Elizabeth Doerr notes as the majority of watchmaker benches in watch factories are “manned” by women. Women were also responsible for the very first wristwatches; the world's first doctorate in horology went to a woman (Dr. Rebecca Struthers); and the now-safe lume glowing on your watch came about thanks to the dangerous (and deadly) work of both Marie Curie and the Radium Girls.
Time+Tide
Yet another regrettable effect of COVID is that, over the last twelve months, it’s stopped most of the watch community from experiencing timepieces in the metal. Thankfully, that’s starting to change in Australia as, with the pandemic increasingly under control, watch events are starting to happen once again. One of the first public events is … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG Heuer celebrate the Carrera in Chadstone and there’s a reason we love Rolex forums appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Best known recently for its collaborations with independent watchmakers – the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter sold out in a matter of hours – Louis Erard has been gaining recognition for making the style of high-end watchmaking affordable. Continuing with that focus, the brand has just announced the Excellence Email Grand Feu, a time-only wristwatch with a traditional enamel dial in a striking ivory hue. The grand feu, or fired-in-an-oven, enamel dial is fairly difficult to manufacture, resulting in a rejection rate that’s often over half. As a result, such dials are usually only found in high-end watches. It’s Louis Erard’s first use of a fired enamel dial, but true to form, the brand has retained its usual pricing positioning with a retail price of under 4,000 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts Given the frequent enthusiast gripe that watch prices (or values) border on the absurd, it would seem that true value propositions are hard to come by. There are a few exceptions – Tudor, Longines, and a few independents for instance – with Louis Erard increasingly being one of them. The brand offers an honest product, often with one or two elements historically found only in haute horlogerie, for not so much money. The Excellence Email Grand Feu is exactly that. And the dial is particularly appealing in ivory, instead of the usual bright white that is the favoured colour for fired enamel. Notably, the dial is made by Donzé Cadrans, the well-known enamel dial maker ...
Revolution
Sinn kicks off its 60th anniversary year with a 500-piece limited edition of their beloved U1 with a special decorative grinding dial for the occasion
Revolution
Laco presents a limited edition in its entry-level pilot’s series with an olive-green dial inspired by military camouflage color
Revolution
Introduced in 2014, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Le Petit Prince” is one of IWC’s famous tributes to French writer-philosopher-aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s book of the same name.
Revolution
The world’s leading expert on Heuer chronographs talks about how he got started as a watch collector and, in particular, why he became enamoured with vintage Heuers.
Revolution
The evolution Jaquet Droz’s skeletonized watch continues with three new colorful and limited editions, ready for springtime.
SJX Watches
Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...
Quill & Pad
More than a century of history of Baselworld, the world’s biggest and most comprehensive watch fair, is virtually impossible to sum up in just a few lines. However, that is what Elizabeth Doerr does here as she looks back over 102 years of Baselworld history and reflects on what happens next. Hopefully that is, "Pack your bags for Houruniverse 2021."
Deployant
We thought that it will be a great idea to introduce some vibrancy into the watch collecting scene, this time with six great watches that has a square case.
SJX Watches
Conceived by Russian watch journalist Mikhail Goncharov and executed with the help of watchmaker Maxim Sushkov, the Ouroboros is a simple-but-smart take on the 24-hour time display. The watch evolved from an idea of Mr Goncharov’s, which combines a novel time display along with design elements from the Jewish faith. Initial thoughts Unusual and striking, the Ouroboros is imaginative in how it conveys the time, but also surprisingly straightforward mechanically. As a result it is notably affordable, starting at about US$2,700 for the steel version. The case appears basic in style and finish, but it is sufficient given the cost of the watch. The only possible shortcoming of the watch might be the obvious elements related to Judaism, like the case back motif for instance, which might not be suitable for everyone, but they do not take away from the intrinsic appeal of the watch. The snake eating its own tail The watch gets its name from the ouroboros, an ancient symbol of life and renewal that is represented by a serpent or dragon consuming its own tail, forming a circle or a figure of eight. The ouroboros forms the minute hand, which is a dragon rendered in considerable detail. Its eye is inlaid with a tiny piece of metal taken from a missile of Iron Dome, the air-defence system employed by Israel to protect against short-range rockets. Mr Goncharov describes the tiny missile fragment as a protective talisman within the watch. Also specific to Israel is the dial, which ...
Time+Tide
A few years ago Hollywood superstar Russell Crowe caught the attention of the watch world. Why? He was selling most of his impressive watch collection in a sale titled, Russell Crowe: The Art of Divorce, through Sotheby’s Australia. While the circumstances of the sale were unfortunate, it was an interesting opportunity to hear straight from … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The T+T interview with Hollywood legend Russell Crowe just hit 1M views, and these are our favourite watches in the video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For me, the King Seiko 5626-7000 "one that got away" - a watch I sold too soon - but a bit of research revealed that I got quite lucky.The post The One I Got Away From – The 1971 King Seiko 5626-7000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The watch industry’s persistent categorising of watches by gender is back on the agenda. And well and truly in frame is the pointlessness of the “women’s watch” category. But, speaking personally here, I’m not one to let a category push me around. I really don’t count labelling for men and women as being told what … ContinuedThe post Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
With new shades of blue and some aesthetic rework of the case and dial, the astounding piece offers a more sporty and relaxed flair.
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most widely leaked recent launch, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a remake of the uncommon, ceramic-case Fliegerchronograph of 1994. Available only online via IWC’s web store, the Tribute to 3705 reproduces the look of the original, but in a larger case made of Ceratanium, essentially a titanium-ceramic composite. And the movement is the in-house cal. 69380. Initial thoughts Possessing the clear, functional style of IWC’s first-generation pilot’s watches, the original 3705 was a good looking watch. Being a pretty faithful remake, the Tribute to 3705 is almost as attractive. A little of the original’s proportions have been lost – the hour hand on the remake looks a bit short – but the Tribute to 3705 is appealing. And it’s also an upgrade with the new case material as well as the in-house movement, which enhances the appeal. It is, however, expensive at US$11,900. That’s 20% more pricey than the Top Gun “SFTI” chronograph, which has a ceramic case and the same movement. No doubt conceived to capitalise on desirability of the original 3705 – an example once owned by former IWC chief executive Gunter Blumlein sold for a little under US$54,000 in 2018 – the Tribute to 3705 will be sold exclusively online via IWC.com. That makes the project feel a little opportunistic, since it means IWC will retain almost all of the margin on the watch, instead of having to split it with a third-party retailer or even a...
Time+Tide
Johnny Dowell, a.k.a King Nerd – who was one of our Londoners featured recently in a series by European Editor Mike Christensen – is a watch customizer with a very sharp point of difference. He is an engraver, and applies his craft to watches, among other things – it’s a world of traditional craftsmanship you wouldn’t … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A duo of disruptors mount up in the King Nerd x G-Shock GM-6900GKING-9ER appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
While it may not appeal to everyone, it is clear that a lot of thought has gone into the design of this watch. It isn’t another homage to a classic design, and moreover, it isn’t weird just for the sake of being weird.
Time+Tide
Many of us, myself included, have the 5711 steel Nautilus cemented onto our watch grail wish-list. Now, the infamous eight year waiting-list you’d have to endure after ordering one is no more. Patek Philippe’s top selling reference is being discontinued, and many a collector on an exclusive AD list will return to square one, with … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Patek Philippe’s decision to kill their most popular product is a business masterstroke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Being faithful to the original while offering visually stunning dial varieties - Orient is continuing to release hit after hit with its "Revival Collection."
Time+Tide
We all love Instagram, right? Especially for the watch community, the Facebook-owned social media app is an integral hub that connects horological enthusiasts around the world. But what if Instagram was making you a target for robbery? That was exactly what allegedly happened in Milan with a gang of four nicknamed the “acrobat thieves” who … ContinuedThe post How did thieves use Instagram to steal €150,000 of watches and other luxury goods? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe is starting the year on a simple note, with its first releases for 2021 being a trio of additions to the Twenty-4 collection for ladies. One is the Twenty-4 Quartz in rose gold with a brown dial, a variant of the recently introduced Twenty-4 “Manchette”, while the other two are mechanical: new references of the Twenty-4 Automatic with green or gold dials. The green dial of the new Twenty-4 Automatic in steel Initial thoughts With all the hype surrounding the now-discontinued Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, it can be easy to forget that Patek Philippe actually makes a broad range of watches, including a collection for ladies that has now been in the catalogue for over 20 years (though the automatic version only came along in 2018). The new Twenty-4 models are variants of the same, but the automatic Twenty-4 with a green dial is unusual and an appealing alternative to the bestselling and faddish blue dial. While the styling might be uninspiring for a watch enthusiast, the Twenty-4 is ideal for someone who wants a Patek Philippe that’s fuss free, explaining the consistent commercial success of the Twenty-4 over the decades. The Twenty-4 Quartz The Twenty-4 Automatic Both versions of the Twenty-4 are pricey, sitting at the top end of their respective segments. The new Twenty-4 Automatic in steel retails for US$27,796, about the same as the Nautilus ref. 7118/1A for ladies, or the recently-launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34 mm. The Twenty-4 has the advantage o...
Revolution
Girard-Perregaux is revealed as Official Watch Partner for Aston Martin Lagonda and Aston Martin Cognizant Formula One™️ Team
Time+Tide
The watch world is definitely enjoying a heritage binge with vintage-inspired timepieces the dominant trend throughout the industry. You might think the end of this trend is on the horizon, but when you appreciate how deep some manufacturers’ archives are, you start to realise that the fun has only just begun. Longines, for example, is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph blends heritage flair with a modern titanium case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Liven up your watch collection with these exciting pieces with clear cases and straps from G-Shock's Transparent series.The post INTRODUCING: Get the all-clear with the G-Shock Transparent Series (including the “Casioak”) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Given GaryG's musings on these pages about the relative roles of rarity and complication in driving the value of a watch, he thinks it appropriate to dedicate this “Behind the Lens” entry to a piece that is both complicated and limited in production: Patek Philippe’s Reference 5950A. What’s so special about this watch? Well, first of all it’s a split-seconds chronograph. What else?
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