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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Miki Eleta Natuhrzeit: Telling The Time Poetically With Nature. And There’s Music Too Quill & Pad
Jun 27, 2020

Miki Eleta Natuhrzeit: Telling The Time Poetically With Nature. And There’s Music Too

There are clocks that deserve to be talked about, written about, bought, and enjoyed. And this goes double for any and all of the unique timepieces by independent horologist Miki Eleta. Elizabeth Doerr had the pleasure of seeing Eleta’s latest masterpiece, Natuhrzeit, at Baselworld 2019 and she has not been able to get it out of her mind since. Enjoy the show!

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Omega movements But now Jun 26, 2020

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie made a name for itself with its beautifully crafted watches that capture the grace of 1940s timepieces. But all of its work so far has centred on time-only watches, all powered by heavily decorated vintage Omega movements. But now the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph takes things to a whole new level. Retaining the elegant feel of the brand’s earlier creations, the AdC #8 is powered by a reworked movement that started out as a Venus 185 but completely reworked by Atelier de Chronométrie, with a substantial number of parts made from scratch. Commissioned by an American collector, the AdC #8 is largely hand made, with everything hand finished to a superlative, artisanal standard, which is why it took took two years to complete. Initial thoughts I first found out about this watch late last year, and it sounded promising given Atelier de Chronométrie’s track record in design and movement finishing. Though I am going by photos, the finished product definitely lives up to expectations, and then some. Everything about it is just done extremely well, and while it costs a lot of money, the AdC #8 is compellingly and reasonably priced as such things go. Having closely examined Atelier de Chronométrie’s earlier watches, the AdC #8 will undoubtedly have the same feel – visually similar to a vintage watch but much more solid in the hand thanks to a more robust, modern case. A little under 40 mm in diameter, the AdC #8 has the proporti...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the New Lange 1 Time Zone SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 25, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the New Lange 1 Time Zone

One of the most high-spec travel watches on the market, the Lange 1 Time Zone has just gotten a major revamp. The new Lange 1 Time Zone looks pretty much like the old one, but it’s powered by a brand-new movement that’s been developed from the ground up. Though it retains the same functions as before – plus a basic daylight savings time reminder – the dial has been improved, both in terms of display as well as details. Initial thoughts The original Lange 1 Time Zone was an ambitious travel watch that did a lot – twin time zones with individual day and night indicators, cities disc, oversized date, and power reserve. Functionality was maximised, but the interface and display was complex. The new Lange 1 Time Zone takes it a step further with the addition of a simple daylight savings time reminder that’s discreet enough to be almost invisible. But because the watch still has so many features, the interface inevitably remains complex, with two pushers plus a crown, making it a bit fiddly to use. Add to that the large and heavy case, and the Lange 1 Time Zone isn’t the most practical of travel watches. It really is for someone who appreciates the technical complexity and also enjoys interacting with the watch. Technical accomplishment remains an appeal in the new model. In typical Lange style, the new watch is powered by a movement developed from the ground up. A substantial amount of effort was expended to retain the same look – as was done with the Lange 1 ...

State of the Industry: The Luxury-Watch Market in China After the Pandemic SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton boutique Jun 25, 2020

State of the Industry: The Luxury-Watch Market in China After the Pandemic

By far the most important markets for luxury watches, China and Hong Kong together accounted for over 21% of Swiss watch exports in 2019 according to trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Add to that Chinese travellers who buy watches overseas, and the fact is the luxury-watch business is dependent on Chinese demand. So the crucial question for the watch industry’s future – what’s happening in the Chinese watch market post-pandemic? On May 10, one of the trending topics on microblogging platform Sina Weibo was the US$30 billion plunge in the net worth of LVMH chief Bernard Arnault, mirroring the sharp drop in LVMH shares. But barely a week before – exactly a month after the end of Wuhan lockdown – there were nearly 100 customers queuing outside the Louis Vuitton boutique in Shanghai’s Plaza 66, all eager to shop before the brand’s price hike. The line outside Louis Vuitton reflected the rebounding demand for luxury goods in China as it emerged from a lockdown. “Macro Data Indicates a Surge in Consumption” – read the headline in the business-focused Workers’ Daily newspaper on May 16. The sentiment is backed up by the latest data from the National Bureau of Statistics of China published in mid June. Though the statistics indicate retail sales of consumer goods declined 13.5% on a nominal basis from January to May, totalling RMB1,387.3 billion for the year to date, the monthly figures indicate a recovery is underway. The monthly numbers s...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Jun 25, 2020

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition

Early in the year, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera 160 Years Silver, a remake of the Carrera 2447S from 1964 – a watch many consider the quintessential vintage Heuer. Continuing with the 160th anniversary commemoration, TAG Heuer has just debuted the the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition. Limited to 1000 pieces, the Montreal Edition has an eye-catching dial inspired by the funky Heuer Montreal (ref. 110503W) of 1972. The colours give a different dimensions to the Carrera 2447S, which was historically offered only in no-nonsense colours of black or silver. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Montreal Edition has a completely different personality compared to the Silver Edition that preceded it, despite both being essentially the same watch. While the latter is more restrained and somber with its monochromatic colours, the latest edition is fun and casual thanks to the colours taken from the white-dial Heuer Montreal (which was also available in black and blue). I like my watches to be understated, so I prefer the Silver Edition, though I can see this version appealing to anyone who loves an extroverted watch. Overall, the watch is a great fusion of the Heuer Montreal and Carrera 2447S, combining the colours of the Montreal with the classic style of the Carrera. The Heuer Montreal (left) and the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition TAG Heuer did a good job of translating the key elements of the Montreal into the Carrera, such as the yellow accents on the minute count...

Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1: Making A Watch The Traditional Way (Video) Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Making Jun 24, 2020

Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1: Making A Watch The Traditional Way (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV have published a beautiful three-part video series on manufacturing a watch fully by hand as demonstrated by Greubel Forsey’s recent Hand Made 1. In this series, Marc-André Deschoux and his team get deep into the manufacture and talk to all of the artisans involved, beginning with founders Stephen Forsey and Robert Greubel.

Buying a “birth-year” watch for your kids is the excuse you need to beef up your collection Time+Tide
Jun 23, 2020

Buying a “birth-year” watch for your kids is the excuse you need to beef up your collection

Why do we have children in the first place? To anchor our rudderless lives with a faint sense of meaning? To give and receive unconditional love? To experience the most profound and humbling experience that is available to humanity? No, no and thrice no! We have children, of course, as a half-arsed excuse to buy … ContinuedThe post Buying a “birth-year” watch for your kids is the excuse you need to beef up your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 23, 2020

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”

Longines is continuing its streak of affordable and handsome remakes of vintage watches, with the last big hit being the Heritage Classic “sector” dial, with the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”. Modelled on a 1940s chronograph powered by the cal. 13ZN, regarded by collectors as the brand’s best chronograph movement, the remake gets its nickname from the stylish black-and-white dial. Initial thoughts There’s almost nothing to criticise in the new chronograph. Aesthetically, it is spot on. The design is faithful to the original, smartly doing away with the much-derided extras of the date and “automatic” often found in remakes. It’s a moderate size, albeit a bit thick. The movement is modular, rather integrated. But it only costs US$3,000, which is excellent value for money. More generally speaking – and this is criticism – Longines has rolled out several well-executed remakes in recent years, notching hit after hit. Paradoxically the success has made the Heritage remakes a little less appealing, just because there are so many of them – and most of them are pretty good. When the original Legend Diver was introduced in 2007, it was special, because the only affordable, good-looking remake. That said, it doesn’t take away anything from the watch itself; the new chronograph really is a compelling buy. Two-tone and tachymetre The Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” manages to capture most of the elements of the original. The dial is in silver...

Czapek Antarctique Tierra Adélie & Orion Nebula: The Restraint Stands Out Quill & Pad
Czapek Antarctique Tierra Adélie & Jun 21, 2020

Czapek Antarctique Tierra Adélie & Orion Nebula: The Restraint Stands Out

The newly released Antarctique is Czapek’s first foray into the steel sport watch market, a market segment that has exploded over the last couple years, by dipping its toes in with a “subscription” strategy for the first limited model. Find out what is so special about this particular addition to the sporty steel bracelet watch market.

The (Not So) Complete Story Of Rock And Roll And Watches: Ramp The Volume Up To 11! – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 20, 2020

The (Not So) Complete Story Of Rock And Roll And Watches: Ramp The Volume Up To 11! – Reprise

The mechanical watch works just like a metronome, with its isochronic balance maintaining a steady rhythm and the delicate tick-tock of its pallet jewels providing a rhythmic beat to our oft-frantic lives. If we ramp up the power and swap the metronome for a drum kit and a few electric guitars we have rock and roll! But which watches do rock-and-roll icons wear?

Rémy Cools Introduces the Tourbillon Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Jun 19, 2020

Rémy Cools Introduces the Tourbillon Souscription

A French watchmaker who is just 23 years old, Rémy Cools has just revealed the finished prototype of his debut watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Mr Cools’ creation is a large watch with no visible crown, giving it a contemporary silhouette, but the look is still heavily classical in style, with the movement and dial strongly influenced by 19th century watchmaking, especially the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet and Jacques Frédéric Houriet according to Mr Cools. Initial thoughts I met Mr Cools at Baselworld 2019 and got to examine the unfinished prototype. It was complete and working, but had not yet been decorated. The prototype was an extremely striking watch, with a strong pocket watch aesthetic but still unique. While clearly modelled on the works of Breguet, it manages to avoid looking like a Breguet. Now that the watch is finished, it is no doubt more impressive; Mr Cools’ photos of the movement and its parts reveal an impressively high level of decoration. Two things go against the watch. One is the pair of crowns on the case back. They are easy enough to use, but feel unnecessarily complicated. The crowns, however, are probably something you get used to and forget about afterwards. The second drawback is the massive height of the watch, which is only 40 mm wide. It stands 15 mm high – including 7 mm of domed sapphire crystal – which gives it a really tall profile. And the thickness is accentuated by the relatively small diameter. That said, the height is ...

The 4 details that make the the all-new Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 Limited Edition so compelling Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 6007A-001 Limited Jun 18, 2020

The 4 details that make the the all-new Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 Limited Edition so compelling

2020 has been a year for a lot of things: a global pandemic, a quarter of a year spent indoors, no Baselworld, no Olympics, and iconic watchmakers like Patek Philippe and Rolex seemingly putting the kibosh on any new novelties. Except, while the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation has so far stuck to their guns, a short … ContinuedThe post The 4 details that make the the all-new Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 Limited Edition so compelling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Petermann Bédat Introduces the 1967 Deadbeat Seconds SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat Jun 18, 2020

Petermann Bédat Introduces the 1967 Deadbeat Seconds

First revealed a year ago as a prototype with a dial that was a work in progress, the Petermann Bédat 1967 wristwatch with an unusual deadbeat seconds mechanism has just been launched in its final form. Mechanically identical to the prototype – it’s equipped a secondary escapement for the jumping seconds – the refined 1967 now has a partially-open dial that shows off the finely-finished keyless works. Initial thoughts The prototype 1967 deadbeat seconds was let down by an uninspiring faux-classical dial, which was a shame, because the movement was executed to an impressively high level. Fortunately, Messrs Petermann and Bedat embarked on a total redesign of the dial. Independent watchmakers don’t often make drastic changes to designs in response to criticism, but the two did so, and the result is a success. The new 1967 is a handsome watch that manages to look modern while evoking classical dial design. In fact, the new dial is essentially a “sector” dial with a sapphire chapter ring, a novel combination that has not been done before. And it is matched with Petermann Bédat’s take on classical lance-shaped hands, which complete the contemporary feel. The new 1967 in rose gold. Photo – Petermann Bédat Dial aside, the rest of the watch is largely identical to the prototype. The movement was already excellent and will be almost unchanged in the production versions, although Mr Petermann says that the engraved lettering on the three-quarter plate will be im...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 for the New Manufacture SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 18, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 for the New Manufacture

Patek Philippe’s 1,600 employees in Geneva began migrating to its expansive new headquarters last year, and now the move is almost complete. To commemorate the completion of the new manufacture, Patek Philippe has announced its very first new launch for 2020: the Calatrava ref. 6007A-001 “New Manufacture 2019”. A limited edition of 1,000 watches, the ref. 6007A has a steel case and a grey-blue dial finished with a variety of textures, including a “carbon” pattern on its centre. Initial thoughts The new ref. 6007A confirms the chatter that Patek Philippe is in the midst of evolving the Calatrava line by injecting more contemporary flair into its aesthetics, which began with last year’s quirky ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar. Though the new ref. 6007A is a very different watch – in fact, its styling brings to mind the unique ref. 5208T “Only Watch” – it too feels like a more casual take on the classic Patek Philippe gentleman’s watch. The case is steel and relatively large at 40 mm, while the dial has a sporty, instrument-like look (which can be explained by its inspiration, the speedometer-inspired ref. 6006G). Notably, the dial has a stamped guilloche centre, which is an unusual feature for a Calatrava. And it also features applied Arabic numerals in white gold, a luxe detail for a simple watch. It will doubtlessly be a lightweight, thin watch that is easy and comfortable to wear, especially since the steel case is more hardwearing than the usual 18k go...