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Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Jun 7, 2025

Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back

Despite missing the original 2023 target, the revival of Urban Jürgensen has proceeded surprisingly swiftly, especially since the brand is making its debut with three all-new models, including the flagship UJ-1 tourbillon – a substantial achievement in a relatively short period of time. The brand was only acquired at end 2021 by a consortium led by American financier Andrew Rosenfield, which installed Kari Voutilainen at its helm, whose presence explains a great deal of the brand’s momentum and product quality. The impressive UJ-1 movement with a flying tourbillon incorporating a remontoir Mr Voutilainen is now co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen as well as a shareholder; the watches certainly bear the hallmarks of his work, namely top-class execution. Rosenfield senior’s son, Alex, is fellow co-chief executive primarily focused on crafting the brand’s image, which is a little fresher than the artisanal watches would imply. Now in his seventies, Rosenfield senior is president of Guggenheim Partners, the investment bank and asset manager, but more importantly, a collector of independent watchmaking for several decades. Mr Rosenfield has been a client of Mr Voutilainen’s for many years now, and owns one of the biggest collections of the watchmaker’s timepieces in the world. Andrew Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen The allure A wealthy, successful individual buying a watch brand is not a novel happening. The allure of owning a prestigious luxury watch mar...

First Look – The Return of Urban Jürgensen, and the New UJ-1 Tourbillon, UJ-2 Time-Only and UJ-3 Perpetual Monochrome
Urban Jürgensen Jun 5, 2025

First Look – The Return of Urban Jürgensen, and the New UJ-1 Tourbillon, UJ-2 Time-Only and UJ-3 Perpetual

A couple of days ago, we published a long, in-depth article on the history of one of the most important watchmaking dynasties, Urban Jürgensen. There were more reasons for this article than just celebrating this historic name, which was founded in 1773. This article was here to prepare the grounds for what is happening today, […]

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure SJX Watches
Hamilton shut down Jun 4, 2025

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s. This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare. Initial Thoughts When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model. The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000. The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence. At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a ...

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners as Part of their Partnership with Alpine Motorsports, Including an Ana-Digi Smartwatch Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Jun 3, 2025

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners as Part of their Partnership with Alpine Motorsports, Including an Ana-Digi Smartwatch

Just when you thought watches associated with F1 teams were getting stale and predictable, here comes H. Moser with a release that I definitely did not have on my bingo card. There are actually two releases here, both introduced last week as part of the brand’s partnership with the Alpine Motorsports F1 team. Both part of the Streamliner family, one is a skeletonized chronograph (which is cool, but not exactly the most exotic thing in the indie watch world) and the other is…a smart watch. Yes, a Streamliner smart watch from the brand that started their recent rise to prominence by, basically, trolling the most popular wearable ever created. The loose concept here is that this pair of watches consists of a “Drivers Edition” Streamliner as well as a corresponding “Mechanics Edition.” We’ll start with the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition, a “measuring instrument” designed specifically for an F1 team and the highly specialized work they do to support their drivers. The watch does a nice job of evoking what we’ve come to know as the Moser aesthetic, with a blue lacquer dial for the time at 12:00, surrounded by black when the watch is on standby mode (Moser of course loves a deep and dark black). But that black negative space is actually a screen, and when digital functions are activated the watch effectively transforms into something we simply aren’t used to seeing from high end independent brands.  The Mechanics Edition is powered by a movement made ...

Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Souscription Breguet got May 30, 2025

Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription

Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...

Hands-On With The Special Yema Superman Tropical CMM.10 Limited Edition Fratello
Yema May 28, 2025

Hands-On With The Special Yema Superman Tropical CMM.10 Limited Edition

Yema’s Superman is undoubtedly my favorite model in the French brand’s extensive collection. I have enjoyed trying many of the Superman versions released in the past few years. My absolute favorite has long been the Superman FAF Search And Rescue Limited Edition, which came out in 2022. That watch presented a retro style with a […] Visit Hands-On With The Special Yema Superman Tropical CMM.10 Limited Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Awake Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Collection Fratello
May 27, 2025

Hands-On With The Awake Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Collection

Awake has a hit on its hands with the Sơn Mài watches. The pieces, which feature traditional Vietnamese lacquerware dials, are hot! Now the latest batch of limited-edition releases is here. The Frosted Leaf collection consists of three models, all containing dials inspired by a view of Earth’s surface from space. It’s been a whirlwind […] Visit Hands-On With The Awake Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Collection to read the full article.

Black Badger and Micromilspec Team Up for an Intergalactic Adventure, and a Limited Edition Milgraph Worn & Wound
May 26, 2025

Black Badger and Micromilspec Team Up for an Intergalactic Adventure, and a Limited Edition Milgraph

Micromilspec has been around for a while, and has carved out a niche for themselves by producing unapologetically tactical watches, often made in collaboration with military units all over the world. Their vibe tends to be somewhat serious, which is what you’d expect given the type of watches they make, and their focus on performance and durability. I mean, it’s all there in the name, right? “Micromilspec” conjures a certain idea of a watch in your brain, and it’s probably not, well, whatever it is that Black Badger has come up with for this limited edition.  Black Badger (otherwise known as James Thompson, the Chief of Materials at Arcanaut and the designer behind many lume forward watches over the years), has partnered with Micromilspec for a new take on their popular chronograph, the Milgraph. The so-called “Sabotage” edition of the Milgraph features healthy amounts of X1-grade Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands, for that signature Black Badger glow, but this is much more than a heavily lumed Milgraph. It’s a high concept art piece that imagines an entire alternate anime universe referenced in the watch as well as the little extras that come with it (a dog tag that has been laser engraved and blowtorch oxidized, which I think just means the guys lit it on fire). It’s way more playful and fun than what we’d typically expect from Micromilspec, but is somehow exactly what we’d expect from Black Badger.  The story Micromilspec and Black Badger h...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Longines Legend Diver Fratello
Longines Legend Diver Another Sunday May 25, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Longines Legend Diver

Another Sunday morning, another showdown. Grab your hot cup of coffee and get ready to vote! This week, it’s all about popular retro dive watches. One is the recently released white-dial Longines Legend Diver. It was met with much praise from media and fans alike as a brighter alternative to the black- and blue-dial options. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Longines Legend Diver to read the full article.

Introducing – The New TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in TH Titanium Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph May 23, 2025

Introducing – The New TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in TH Titanium

In 2024, TAG Heuer went back to complications and expanded the Monaco collection with a split-second chronograph in blue and racing red. Following the presentation of a bold F1 red-and-white limited edition at Watches and Wonders, we now see the fourth iteration of the concept, this time innovating through materials. Meet the all-new TH Titanium […]

8 Great Watches under $8,000 from Watches & Wonders 2025 Quill & Pad
May 22, 2025

8 Great Watches under $8,000 from Watches & Wonders 2025

After replacing her heating system, Carol Besler has been considering all the other thingsshe could have had for $8,000, which naturally led to thoughts about all the nice watches she could have had for around that price. Here are a few that stand out. Since then, I’ve been watching for them, and although it’s a challenging price point for a luxury watch, I’ve come up with a few contenders that offer real value for the money.

Tudor Pelagos 39 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor May 21, 2025

Tudor Pelagos 39 Review

Back in 2012, Tudor unveiled its action-ready diver, capable of surviving depths up to a whopping 500 meters (that’s over 1,640 feet) with the Pelagos. To achieve that extensive depth rating, for many, the necessary tradeoff came with the 42mm sizing that the Pelagos debuted, which is the caveat made with the inclusion of a helium escape valve to make the case more secure in deeper diving excursions. In the years since its release, Tudor has riffed upon the Pelagos in various ways, even including teaming up with the French Marine Nationale to create the FXD extension on the line, and recently, throwing in a GMT complication into the mix. And let's not forget this year's Pelagos Ultra. But we are gathered here today to take a good, long look at the Pelagos many asked for, with the more versatile-sized Tudor Pelagos 39. Despite listening to the audience and essentially delivering what they ordered on a silver platter, the Pelagos 39mm has largely remained in the shadow of the brand’s golden child, the Black Bay 58. When comparing the two, there’s a lot of common ground between the two watches on the surface: they’re of comparable size (the Pelagos 39mm is actually .1mm slimmer), identical levels of water resistance at 200m, and the price difference between the two is under $1,000, which doesn’t seem incredibly significant given the Pelagos 39mm is all in Titanium, which always more costly. So, what is the secret sauce that the Black Bay 58 has that the Pelagos lack...

Casio F-91W Review Teddy Baldassarre
Casio May 20, 2025

Casio F-91W Review

The Casio F-91W is the best-selling wristwatch of all time, with more than 100 million units sold. This statement comes a pretty significant caveat, which depends on whether or not you consider the Apple Watch - well, a watch. I am a defender of “smartwatches,” but I think they have evolved to the point where “wearable” is a more appropriate term given the fact that their functionality when it comes to communication and health monitoring exceeds what any watch has ever done. So, with that established for the sake of this article, let’s put the 300 million Apple Watch sales aside for now. Casio F-91W History And "Controversy" The Casio F-91W was introduced all the way back in 1989 and is still in production, with the astonishing figure of 3 million units per year. What's even more remarkable is the fact that the Casio F-91W you can buy in 2025 basically looks the same as one you could have bought when it first launched 36 years ago. It was also the first watch designed by Ryuusake Morai, the prolific designer behind some of the most iconic Casio G-Shocks seen today. When a watch has been around as long as this, it can transcend fads and trends, but few can claim immunity/teflon status to an unfortunate PR association like the F-91W when it was used as a timer for explosives. I would absolutely not call it a “controversy,” because that would just be silly, but the always-excellent Watches of Espionage has a fantastic article dedicated to the topic, which you ...

Hands On: MB&F; SP One SJX Watches
Bulgari May 20, 2025

Hands On: MB&F; SP One

With its fifth new model in as many months, MB&F; has been on quite the run to kick off its third decade. Fresh off the launch of the fun and affordable M.A.D.2, which followed closely on the heels of a collaboration with Bulgari and the introduction of the the Legacy Machine Longhorn editions, the brand has returned with the SP One, a contemporary take on the open-worked dress watch. Sleeker than the typical Horological Machine yet more avant garde than a Legacy Machine, the pebble-like SP One is the first model in a new “Special Projects” collection that packages the brand’s signature contemporary aesthetic in a smaller more wearable 38 mm footprint. The SP One joins the collection as a regular production model in either platinum or 18k rose gold. Initial thoughts Picking up the SP One for the first time, one is struck by the light and airy nature of the watch. On the wrist, the minimalist case almost disappears, making the the SP One something of a wrist-worn display case for the Y-shaped movement. This effect is accentuated with a brushed internal flange dubbed ‘the amphitheater’ that focuses attention on the spectacularly three-dimensional mechanical architecture. The smooth pebble-like case measures 38 mm and is just 12 mm thick, making it the most compact MB&F; watch to-date. The front and rear sapphire crystals are cambered to blend seamlessly with the case, giving the SP One the feel of a polished stone. Visually, the smoothness is emphasised by lugs that ...

Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025 SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari May 14, 2025

Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025

Despite everything, including tariffs and a strong Swiss franc, the Geneva auction season turned out to be a strong one, with some of the strongest results being in the most surprising segments. The bigger winner this season was Phillips, which sold a bit under 200 lots for CHF43.4 million including fees, while also claiming the most valuable lots for the season, reflecting Phillips’ strong leadership and team. Despite being the market leader by some margin, the Phillips catalogue was arguably the riskiest as it included several high-value pocket watches and clocks – timepieces that not part of mainstream collecting today. Yet the gamble paid off with the most valuable timepiece this season being its Breguet Sympathique no. 1 that sold for CHF5.51 million. Christie’s achieved CHF21.2 million with a similar number of lots that were arguably more conventional in taste and format than at Phillips. One of its most valuable lots was a Cartier Crash “NSO” with a special order dial that sold for CHF736,000 – one of the biggest surprises of the season but proof that being eye-catching enough for social media is a big factor in desirability and value today. Interestingly, the Crash sold for exactly the same as the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari. The Crash went for about 15 times the original retail, while the RM UP-01 was about half of retail. The Crash NSO “nickele” grey. Image – Christie’s Over at Antiquorum, the tally was CHF10 million – from almost 800 lot...

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon Many May 14, 2025

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon

Many love an excellent mecaquartz chronograph. Brands can spend more money on the looks of such watches thanks to their affordable movements. These watches often punch above their weight, at least visually. Others say they are cheap interpretations of the real deal, a timepiece with a mechanical movement. I received the new Nivada Chronosport Blue […] Visit Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon to read the full article.

Portrait – Löbner Watches, “Vom Guten das Beste” or The Best of The Best Monochrome
Seiko May 12, 2025

Portrait – Löbner Watches, “Vom Guten das Beste” or The Best of The Best

Swiss watchmaking captures all the attention. The most prestigious brands, trusted by the market, are “Swiss Made”, which acts as an absolute guarantee. The only one to dominate the watch landscape, historically, outside of Switzerland, is the great Japanese classic: Seiko. On closer inspection, however, watch-related know-how has developed outside of Switzerland, particularly in Eastern […]

Seiko’s Premier Diver-GMT Gets an Update with the Prospex SPB519 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko s Premier Diver-GMT Gets May 6, 2025

Seiko’s Premier Diver-GMT Gets an Update with the Prospex SPB519 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT

A new diver release from Seiko isn’t exactly going to set the world on fire, but it will surely please the legions of fans of the brand and its Prospex line. With a crisp white and blue colorway and nifty bracelet that can be microadjusted as wrist size changes throughout the day, the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT looks to be a worthy-if subdued-addition to the ever-growing catalog of Seiko dive watches. Pulling from a long tradition of purpose-built Seiko dive watches, the new SPB519 reference features a stainless steel case measuring in at 42mm in diameter, 48.6mm lug-to-lug, and 13.3mm thick, giving it a heftier frame than 2023’s closely-related Heritage Diver’s GMT (SPB381). A unidirectional bezel, and screw-down caseback and crown at 4 o’clock further push the watch into “serious” diver waters, supported by the 300-meter water resistance rating. Stylistically, the SPB519 takes on a sort of jaunty sailor persona, with a navy blue ceramic bezel and a silvery white dial. The applied indexes and hands are coated in LumiBrite, as are numerals on the bezel, and an anti-reflective coating protects the inner surface of the sapphire crystal.  Inside, the Caliber 6R54 automatic hand-winding GMT movement adds some spice to the otherwise by-the-numbers functionality of the watch, and boasts a 72-hour power reserve and “caller-style” independent 24-hour hand. The most interesting feature of the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, however, lies with the bracelet, which ...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34 mm SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 6, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34 mm

A. Lange & Söhne delivered one of its most impressive complications at Watches & Wonders 2025, but it was the brand’s entry level novelty that was the talk of the town. The 1815 34 mm won many admirers, and for good reason; it’s attractive, comfortable, well-made, and priced right – an increasingly rare combination. Available in either 18k white or pink gold, the new 1815 is a regular production model but features a galvanic blue dial most often associated with the brand’s limited editions. It joins the Saxonia Thin as Lange’s entry-level offering; both are priced comparably but look and feel very different. Initial thoughts Small watches are back, and the 1815 design works perfectly in the 34 mm size due to its bold numerals, which help it maintain a strong presence on the wrist. The case size now goes without saying, but it’s worth mentioning the 6.4 mm thickness, which places it among the brand’s thinnest watches. This sizing is effortlessly comfortable, and the abundance of gold, sterling silver, and German silver give it reassuring heft. Like most Lange dials, the stepped blue dial of the 1815 is made from sterling silver that’s been given a galvanic finish. This particular shade of blue is often used for limited editions like the 25th anniversary Datograph and 30th anniversary Lange 1, which makes it feel extra special. Longtime fans of the brand will recall this dial harks back to the first-generation 1815 that was available with a similar dial (and...

In-Depth: Hidden Innovation in the Urwerk UR-150 “Scorpion” SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-150 “Scorpion” Urwerk May 2, 2025

In-Depth: Hidden Innovation in the Urwerk UR-150 “Scorpion”

Urwerk is universally known for its unique approach to time-telling, usually marrying the classic concept of wandering hours with avant-garde styling and reinvented mechanics. The brand’s signature brand of watchmaking is exemplified by the UR-150 “Scorpion”, which demonstrates the brand’s ability to reinvent the wheel in displaying the time. The UR-150 is a time-only watch, showing just the hours and minutes, but with a technical execution that is sophisticated and elaborate. Nicknamed “Scorpion” due to its crisp retrograde hour hand that brings to mind the desert creature’s swift sting, the UR-150 features a central carousel that creeps slowly over the course of one hour, only for the hour hand to snap back and reset with a lively action at the top of each hour. The concept of satellite and retrograde hours is not new to Urwerk – in fact the idea dates back to the Opus V – but in the UR-150 the mechanics underlying the time display have been refined, upgraded, and elaborated upon. Dissecting the time display module of the UR-150 is a fascinating process that speaks to the talent of the watchmakers and constructors at Urwerk who conceived these radical time displays. The mechanics are inventive, especially in the interconnected nature of the various sub-assemblies ranging from the retrograde to the satellite discs. The construction also incorporates finer engineering details like main shaft that supports two concentric but independent axes of the carrier...

Timekeeping at the Edge of the World: Four Watches Across Iceland Two Broke Watch Snobs
Apr 28, 2025

Timekeeping at the Edge of the World: Four Watches Across Iceland

Iceland is a place of extremes: glaciers, geothermal hot springs, and black sand beaches shaped by volcanic fury. It’s also a place where time seems to slow down and I thought it was ideal for reflecting on both nature and time spent with family-shaping memories I'll never forget. Watches were also part of the journey, of course. And as I prepared for the trip, the exercise behind choosing which timepieces to bring was something I deeply enjoyed. Now that I'm back, I just wanted to reflect on those choices and how they played a role in my first trip outside the US since the COVID era. I needed it, and it was awesome.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G It’s Sunday Apr 27, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G

It’s Sunday again, and for our showdown this week, we set up a clash between two polarizing watches that inspire no shortage of fervid opinions. First, there is the brand-new Rolex Land-Dweller that the brand unveiled during Watches and Wonders a few weeks back. It goes up against the much-debated Patek Philippe Cubitus, which debuted […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G to read the full article.

Hands-On With A Quintet Of Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Watches Fratello
Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Apr 21, 2025

Hands-On With A Quintet Of Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Watches

My favorite guilty-pleasure brand is, without a shadow of a doubt, Hublot. The colorful ceramic models, in particular, have the X factor. Guess what: the quintet of Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary watches is made in different materials, one of which is bright red ceramic. The other four are titanium, King Gold, Magic Gold, and […] Visit Hands-On With A Quintet Of Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Watches to read the full article.