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Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes… Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2020

Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes…

This year has been remarkable in many ways. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve said to myself, “Well, I never thought I’d see that happen in my lifetime.” Despite these surprises, the watch industry has demonstrated a remarkable stability. Sure, we lost a few trade shows. But there was also a regular flow … ContinuedThe post Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Ulysse Nardin Blast: Highly Volatile Explosive Quill & Pad
Ulysse Nardin Blast Highly Volatile Explosive Oct 21, 2020

Ulysse Nardin Blast: Highly Volatile Explosive

Ulysse Nardin offers the Blast in five different case versions, and each of these case materials has great impact on the look of the individual watch. In most watches, ceramic cases provide an edgy feel that Martin Green thinks often makes them look better than their metal-encased siblings. Not so with the Blast, he feels. Check out all of his thoughts on this new watch here.

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Massena Lab Introduces the Uni-Racer Chronograph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Oct 20, 2020

Massena Lab Introduces the Uni-Racer Chronograph

Having gotten its start by collaborating with independent watchmakers like Habring2, Massena Lab has just unveiled the first watch of its own brand, the Uni-Racer. A vintage-style wristwatch modelled on the Universal Genève Uni-Compax “Big Eye” chronograph of the 1960s, the Uni-Racer features several details that will appeal to enthusiasts, while having an affordable price tag of just under US$3,500. Initial thoughts Like all other remakes of vintage watches, the Uni-Racer reproduces the look of its vintage inspiration, while enlarging everything – the case is 39 mm compared to 37 mm for the original – to suit modern tastes. But unlike most other remakes, the Uni-Racer attends to the details that only a keen-eyed collector would appreciate, which is hardly a surprise since Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a longtime watch collector himself (and probably best known as the former general manager of watch forum Timezone.com). Features like the hand-wind movement and vintage-style buckle indicate the attention to detail in its conception. But there are also the less obvious elements, like the tiny, engraved logo on the crystal and the Massena Lab emblem that resembles an inverted Universal Genève logo. In fact, Massena Lab says it “interviewed former Universal Genève employees and suppliers to confirm original details and aesthetics”. The achievement of the Uni-Racer is not a novel design, but the careful curation of details that give the watch an authentic...

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Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Skull One SJX Watches
De Bethune DW5 Oct 20, 2020

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Skull One

Chopard has loosened up its strictly formal, ultra-thin dress watch with recent launches like the collaboration with tailor Kiton. Launched during Mexican watch fair Salón Internacional Alta Relojería México (SIAR), the L.U.C Skull One continues the theme – a slim, black-coated case and the dial decorated with a motif inspired by Día de Muertos, the Mexican festival that celebrates the dearly departed. Initial thoughts The Skull One is not the first Chopard dressed in a calavera, a decorated depiction of the skull used during Día de Muertos, or Day of the Dead. Two years ago, once again for SIAR, Chopard decked out its top-of-the-line L.U.C perpetual calendar with tourbillon in Day of the Dead decor that was hand engraved on the dial and case. But compared to that one-off creation (and also the similarly-themed De Bethune DW5), the Skull One is most pared back in style and also in price. Priced just shy of US$10,000, the Skull One is well priced for a wristwatch powered by a sophisticated, in-house movement that has an elaborately printed dial. And just as importantly, the watch is well designed – the skull motif works well with everything else. The look is coherently put together, with most of the elements done in shades of black and grey – even the case back crystal is tinted grey – but accented with rose gold markers and hands. Simple yet effective While obvious at a glance, the dial is thoughtful in its details. The motif is set apart from the b...

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HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH – Oct 19, 2020

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years

It is fair to argue that the two most popular watch categories that find their way onto the wrists of buyers around the world are dive watches and chronographs. Both have their merits and are classic staples of the watch industry, but what if there was a way to have both? The DOXA SUB 200 … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Announces the Design-Your-Own-Seiko-5 Contest SJX Watches
Seiko Announces Oct 19, 2020

Seiko Announces the Design-Your-Own-Seiko-5 Contest

Much loved for its extreme affordability, the Seiko 5 was revamped last year with the Seiko 5 Sports. Since then, there have been numerous iterations of the diver “lite” Seiko 5 Sports, as well as a variety limited editions such as the Street Fighter V quintet inspired by the video game of the same name. And now anyone could be the designer of the next Seiko 5. Seiko has just announced Seiko 5 Sports Custom Watch Beatmaker, a design contest open to the public. It’s an online platform to mix and match the key elements of the watch, and the design receiving the largest number of votes will be realised as an actual production watch. Initial thoughts As if in response to the long-existing and substantial community of “modders” who modify Seiko watches, the contest presents choices for five external parts of the watch, namely the bezel insert, case, dial, hands, and strap, allowing users to iterate amongst all of them. But the choices for each of the five elements are all drawn from existing models of the Seiko 5 Sports, so there really isn’t that much of a diversity in design. The resulting watches will essentially be a shuffling of familiar elements, which is not that exciting, especially given the numerous and interesting after-market modifications available. That said, it is significant that Seiko is allowing watch enthusiasts to take part in the design process – up to an extent – bringing about hope that there will be more enthusiast-led designs in the...

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MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money Time+Tide
Oct 19, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money

It seems like every week, another Kickstarter microbrand comes forward with its own take on a diving watch. Some of these are more successful than others, but the one certainty is that in order to stand out, companies have to increasingly  think outside the box. AUDRIC Watches have done so with the home-run combination of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: My biggest 180 of 2020 is admitted in this video about the new Bulgari Bulgari Aluminium Collection… Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux regarding Oct 18, 2020

VIDEO: My biggest 180 of 2020 is admitted in this video about the new Bulgari Bulgari Aluminium Collection…

It seems to happen about once a year. I must sheepishly admit that I was wrong about a watch. In 2019, I offered a full retraction to Girard-Perregaux regarding the Laureato, a watch that I not only came to love but purchase. In 2020, it’s apology time once again. And this time, it’s to the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: My biggest 180 of 2020 is admitted in this video about the new Bulgari Bulgari Aluminium Collection… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium collection Editor’s note Oct 18, 2020

Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection

Editor’s note: There’s no doubt that the Bulgari watch department is having a very big year. So far they have gotten hearts racing with the launch of their record-breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, the new Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel, and then their remarkable High-End Watch novelties. And if that wasn’t enough, there … ContinuedThe post Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Hublot 40 Years Anniversary Black Ceramic Time+Tide
Hublot 40 Years Anniversary Black Oct 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot 40 Years Anniversary Black Ceramic

It’s hard to believe it’s been four decades since the inception of arguably the most disruptive and provocative watchmaker in modern history. But we are indeed celebrating their 40th birthday and their first-ever watch – the Classic Original, otherwise known as the OG gold watch with a rubber strap. To commemorate the milestone, Hublot has … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot 40 Years Anniversary Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch blends past and present Time+Tide
Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch Oct 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch blends past and present

For many around the world, one of the unexpected side effects of a global pandemic is spending a lot more time on the couch watching Netflix. And if that’s something you can relate to, then you have probably watched (or at least been recommended to watch) The Social Dilemma, a documentary about the addictive elements … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch blends past and present appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph Oct 17, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph

One of the more surprising watches of 2019 was Chopard’s Alpine Eagle. Based on the Swiss outfit’s St. Moritz wristwatch of the 1980s, here was an entirely new take on the luxury stainless steel sports watch with integrated bracelet. It was, and still is, an important timepiece for Chopard as it’s the watchmaker’s best attempt … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – 2nd Edition SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Oct 15, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – 2nd Edition

Zenith had a surprise hit last year with the El Primero A384 Lupin The Third, a limited edition modelled on a fictional Zenith chronograph found in the Lupin III manga and anime series. Though available only in Japan, the 50-piece edition gained traction internationally with its striking gold-and-black livery. Now another Zenith watch found in the Japanese comic has been realised as the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – 2nd Edition. Launched to coincide with the opening of Zenith’s new boutique in Tokyo’s posh Ginza district, the new Lupin edition is a “panda” – featuring a white dial with black sub-dials as well as a parchment-coloured Super-Luminova. It’s based on the El Primero A384, a faithful remake of the vintage original of the same name, and shares the same specs. Initial thoughts The second Lupin edition lacks the high-contrast look of the first, but it does have a more classically vintage look that goes well with the angular A384 case. Zenith – or more accurately, the artist behind Lupin III, Monkey Punch – smartly removed most of the branding under 12 o’clock. The traditional four lines of text is now just one, bringing to mind similarly-clean Zenith dials of the 1970s. Perhaps the only weakness of the new edition is the short interval between this and the last one, about 11 months but feeling like a shorter span of time. And the new edition of 200 pieces is not large by watch industry standards, but substantially larger than the 50-pi...

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De Bethune Introduces the DW5 Cempasúchil SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Oct 15, 2020

De Bethune Introduces the DW5 Cempasúchil

Already a well-established tradition at De Bethune, the unusual use of metal alloys along with elaborate engraving defines the Maestri’Art DW5 Cempasúchil, a unique watch created for Salón Internacional Alta Relojería México (SIAR), the country’s leading luxury-watch fair that takes place October 20-22. The Cempasúchil is a unique piece that’s the latest instalment in the Dream Watch 5 (DW5) series that started out as a sleek creation resembling a metallic seashell. More recently, the DW5 has more recently been used as a blank canvas for heavily decorative engraving, something the Cempasúchil takes that to the extreme. The titanium case of the Cempasúchil is heat blued and inlaid with gold in various colours, forming an intricate yet cartoonish motif inspired by the Mexican festival of Día de Muertos, or Day of the Dead. And that explains the model name, which is also a type of marigold also known as flor de los muertos, or “flower of the dead”. Cempasúchil front And back Initial thoughts Done by De Bethune’s go-to engraver, the quality of the work on the Cempasúchil is unmistakably high quality. And the multi-coloured gold inlay elevates the work to another level entirely. And the exuberant, whimsical of multiple calavera, or decorated skulls, is very much in keeping with the spirit of the Day of the Dead, a celebration of the departed rather than a sad occasion. But the combination of the DW5 and the motif doesn’t gel. Traditionally seamless,...

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Watchmaking: How the Art of Precision Regulation Became a Science SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Oct 14, 2020

Watchmaking: How the Art of Precision Regulation Became a Science

They were once the horological elite, credited with magical powers. The precision timers who tuned the watches for the observatory trials in the 1960s and 1970s are now a dwindling band in the twilight of their lives. In those days, when mechanical precision rather than mechanical complication determined the value of a watch, precision timing was a post-graduate discipline that took a lifetime to master. Before he died last October in his 90th year, one old timer, François Mercier of Le Locle, described what he had to do to win prizes for his employers, initially Ulysse Nardin and then the hairspring spring manufacturer Spiraux Réunis. First, he had to identify the most faultless spring, calculate and shape the terminal curve, pin it up to the staff of a previously poised balance wheel. Then he would shift balance screws by hundredths of a millimetre, adjust forces and inertia in micrograms, to move a fraction of a second closer to the unattainable goal of a true and constant time. An overcoil hairspring in a contemporary Voutilainen Vingt-8 Temperature compensation  The biggest challenge was to compensate for the effects of temperature changes on the steel alloy springs of old. As the temperature rose, the spring would lose its elasticity and beat more slowly. Such springs needed a compensation balance made of two metals each having a different coefficient of expansion. Rising temperatures would cause the cut ends of the balance rim to curl inwards, thereby increasing...

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MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO

The most complicated MB&F; watch when it was launched in 2015, the LM Perpetual (or LM QP) was powered by an ingenious movement combining a “split” escapement and a novel perpetual calendar mechanism developed by Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. Now MB&F; has reworked the watch to create its sportier and more robust successor, the LM Perpetual EVO. Featuring several tweaks to the case, dial, and movement that are cumulatively significant, the LM Perpetual EVO boasts increased water resistance along with an integrated rubber strap. The LM Perpetual EVO is a limited edition of 15 watches each in black, blue, and orange Initial thoughts Even though the Legacy Machine (LM) line was conceived as something inspired by the 19th century and Jules Verne, the LM Perpetual with its open-worked, intricate dial was always stylishly modern, though that was toned down by the white-lacquered sub-dials of the original model. The EVO, however, makes full use of the open-worked dial to become an uber-contemporary watch. Both the material and construction of the case are new: it’s now zirconium with a more complicated architecture, featuring recessed sides and angular lugs that integrate with the strap. And the sub-dials are black, creating a striking contrast against the base plate in black, blue, or orange. Most notably, the EVO brings to mind the Harry Winston Project Z1, which was the other major product developed by MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser when he was chief executive of ...

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Up Close: Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono SJX Watches
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Oct 12, 2020

Up Close: Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono

Luxury-sports watches are the flavour of the day, and brands in every price segment offer something in the category. Given the fad, Chopard’s launch of the Alpine Eagle last year wasn’t much of a surprise, although the fact that the Alpine Eagle was a reboot of the 1980s St Moritz was unexpected, since the St Moritz was never really a hit. But the St Moritz was smartly reworked, creating a watch that is good looking and in typical Chopard style, very well made and also well priced. The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono has all of the qualities of last year’s base model, but everything comes together better on the chronograph. And despite being more complicated and thus more expensive, the chronograph is arguably better value, and perhaps even the best in class. Initial thoughts When the Alpine Eagle was unveiled almost exactly a year ago, making its debut as a 41 mm three-hander with date, I was impressed by the fit and finish, and also the price; the value proposition was good. But the three-hand Alpine Eagle isn’t particularly compelling in the hand. To be fair, the base-model Alpine Eagle manages to avoid the usual pitfall for a luxury-sports watch – looking derivative and too similar to the most famous watches in the category – but it is a little plain. The new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, on the other hand, is compelling in style, size, and substance. Visually the chronograph works better than the three-hand model, because the sub-dials are well proportioned and i...

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