Hodinkee
Introducing: Travis Scott Presents The AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked ‘Cactus Jack’ LE
Houston-born rapper Travis Scott partners with AP on a new chocolate brown ceramic QP.
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Hodinkee
Houston-born rapper Travis Scott partners with AP on a new chocolate brown ceramic QP.
Time+Tide
The new Travis Scott x Audemars Piguet collaboration marks the first-ever brown ceramic Royal Oak watch.The post Audemars Piguet team up with Travis Scott, M.A.D.1 lucky losers, and the biggest DWW yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rumours of a brown ceramic Royal Oak began circulating several months ago, and the latest launch from Audemars Piguet (AP) has proven them true. However, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” 41 mm is more than a new colour, and instead it’s a 200-piece limited edition collaboration with American Rapper Travis Scott and his streetwear label Cactus Jack. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is interesting for being more than just a change of dial colour, which is usually the route taken for limited editions. While it is based on the standard model, the “Cactus Jack” gets a brown ceramic case as well as typography based on the musician’s handwriting on the dial, along with Cactus Jack’s smiley emblem for the moons. Notably, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is just one part of AP’s collaboration with Mr Scott. Their tie-up also includes a line of clothing, including hoodies, t-shirts, and caps, that will be available on Cactus Jack’s own retail site. Initial thoughts Although the “Cactus Jack” is fundamentally identical to the regular production skeleton perpetual in ceramic, it looks strikingly different because of the case. Typically I am not a fan of brown ceramic, but here the material sets the watch apart instantly. This differentiation is a good thing since there are many, many version of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar – the non-skeleton ceramic model is already available in b...
Time+Tide
The "watchmaker's watchmaker" and high-end online retailer have teamed up on an exclusive Reverso that celebrates The Harbour City.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre & Mr Porter’s latest watch collaboration pays tribute to the stylish city of Sydney appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Christened “Récits de Voyages”, the Les Cabinotiers line-up for 2023 is all about captivating narratives told through unique timepieces, each recounting the historical expansion of the brand across diverse geographies. One of them evokes the mid-19th century when Vacheron Constantin forged its first commercial ties in China, reflecting the profound significance of the country for watchmaking in that era. The Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery “Dragon” pays homage to that historical relationship. This extraordinary timepiece features a grisaille enamel dial in green – the technique almost always relies on greys and blacks instead – that showcases the mythical five-clawed dragon, once the symbol of the Chinese emperor. The artisanal enamel dial is contained within a case fully set baguette-cut diamonds, alongside one of the thinnest self-winding movements ever, the cal. 1120. Initial thoughts The dial of the Les Cabinotiers Dragon showcases the grisaille technique that offers a distinct, high contrast and a clear focus on the mythical subject. Departing from the conventional grisaille approach of a monochromatic palette of greys, Vacheron Constantin opted for a unique twist by employing shaded green enamel to depict the majestic dragon. The colour manages to give the dragon more life than compared to a traditional black-and-grey grisaille dial, while still retaining the discreet elegance that is characteristic of the technique. The result is remarkable and...
Worn & Wound
Over the course of the last year, we’ve been keeping regular tabs on Awake, a microbrand with roots in France that operates within very narrow niches. Their watches are high concept and put a premium on storytelling, which admittedly is not everyone’s cup of tea. But we appreciate their creativity, and believe that this hobby is better and more interesting when brands like Awake are around to remind us that the watch world is encompasses a lot more than black dialed dive watches and vintage reissues. Their latest project, the Summetria collection, is based on perhaps their most abstract idea yet: the inherent beauty in nature, and the symmetry of all living things. The specific idea of symmetry is tackled here through guilloche dial treatments, which Awake relates to the natural symmetry of things like a butterfly’s wings or flower petals. Awake notes in their press materials for the Summetria collection that to human beings, symmetry seen in nature appears almost unimaginably complex, but the reason it exists at all is because “nature prefers simplicity.” From Awake’s perspective, it’s all about simplicity, and there’s a clear dichotomy there between the inherent complexity of watchmaking (and the application of guilloche) and the visual and functional simplicity of natural symmetry. Like I said, it’s abstract. But I appreciate that Awake is trying to draw connections between their watch designs and the natural world in ways that other brands do not ...
SJX Watches
Seiko has remade its high-end dive watch with a new, slimmer movement and consequently more compact watch. Still known as the Prospex Marinemaster, the new model is available in three variants (SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101), all sharing a design heavily influenced by the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the “62MAS” from 1965. Initial thoughts Marinemaster models long been solid but chunky watches, with examples including the Hi-Beat 36,000 limited edition or the forest green model from 2021. A more compact iteration enhances its appeal, especially with the recent popularity of smaller, vintage-inspired dive watches. The “62MAS” model from 1965. Image – Seiko The design still echoes the original 62MAS, particularly in the dial and bezel layout. However, the new model, especially the light blue variant, gains a more contemporary feel with the horizontally striped dial along and the engraved markings on the bezel. The patterned dial easily brings to mind other sports watches, so it does seem a bit derivative, but Seiko’s position as a maker of dive watches is strong enough that this still looks and feels like a Seiko. The latest Marinemaster is priced at US$2,800, reflecting Seiko’s gradual upmarket move over recent years. This places it squarely within the mid-tier dive watch segment also occupied by brands such as such as Doxa or Longines. While it remains a compelling option at this price, it is no longer such a clear value proposition relative to the competit...
Hodinkee
A fairly diplomatic size, a high complication and a whole lot of gem-setting. Perhaps it's time to revisit what makes a unisex watch?
Worn & Wound
For those of you who only know the Tony Hawks of the world when it comes to skateboarding celebrities, might I introduce you to Yuto Horigome. Born in Tokyo on January 7, 1999, Yuto began skateboarding at six, influenced by his father. Rising through the ranks of Japanese competitions as a teenager, he moved to the U.S. after high school and quickly excelled in Street League Skateboarding, winning three 2018 stops within a year of his debut. Horigome achieved numerous milestones, including being the first Japanese skateboarder to win the X Games in 2019 and securing the World Championship in 2021, and in 2023, he became the first Japanese skateboarder to triumph at the historic Tampa Pro contest in the United States. With a resume like this, it’s no wonder that Seiko has released their latest Seiko 5 Sport in collaboration with the skateboarding wunderkind. This automatic GMT is the perfect balance of Seiko’s trademark style with a nod to the Tokyo that Horigome-san knows and loves. For starters, the 42.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet are coated in black which works nicely as the backdrop for the blue and purple bezel, inspired by Tokyo sunsets. The exhibition back’s Hardlex crystal is decorated with Yuto’s signature for an added personalized touch. Underneath the crystal, one can see the 4R34 caliber at work. This is a limited edition model with a limited production run of just 2,700 pieces. Each unit will be serialized, and the retail price is $520. Ava...
Quill & Pad
Champagne Devaux blends are not predetermined and the non-vintage wines see a high proportion of reserve wines. The majority of the reserve wines are aged in oak vats while they also incorporate the solera process. Time on lees far outstrips many of their competitors.
Time+Tide
High-frequency quartz movements are a bit of a rarity these days, making Bulova's Jet Star all the more appealing.The post The Bulova Jet Star delivers a mechanical sweep with a 262kHz quartz movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After shading the Aqua Terra Worldtimer line in greys and greens, Omega debuts the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”. A new take on its dive-ready GMT, the watch is named after the dark grey ceramic case, which harnesses the material’s hardness while staying lightweight thanks to the extensive use of titanium for its internals, including the movement bridges. Initial thoughts Titanium and ceramic are not noteworthy in themselves, but here the materials are combined in an interesting and functional manner. The scratch resistance of ceramic is useful for the case, while the titanium inner components keep the weight down, a helpful characteristic for a big watch. And the materials also create a shades-of-grey appearance that gives the watch a sense of seriousness – with the orange accents bringing some tasteful contrast – though it is less stark compared to its all-black ceramic sibling. Thought lighter than usual for a watch of its size, the new GMT is a big watch measuring 45.5 mm in diameter, making it quite a bit bigger than comparable watches from Tudor for instance. It would be more wearable and have a wider appealing if the case was in the range of 41 mm to 42 mm. Despite its material attractions, however, the GMT “Dark Grey” is expensive at US$22,200. It is almost twice as expensive as the same model in black ceramic (that admittedly doesn’t have a titanium movement). Despite the titanium components, the price is hard to justify since it i...
Worn & Wound
As a watchmaker, Citizen is as diversified as any in regards to the sheer breadth and width of its catalog. Collectors can get lost in the histories of cult classic dive watches while marveling at modern atomic timing tech. If there were two core attributes across Citizen’s diverse offerings, they could be summed up as “tough” and “technical”. Chalk it up to Japanese excellence or decades of innovation – either way you are getting a solid product. The modern lineup of Promaster watches epitomizes the toughness and technical know-how of Citizen. It is considered the “Professional” line of watches, and here are two models to consider adding to your arsenal for your next adventure. As a watchmaker, Citizen is as diversified as any in regards to the sheer breadth and width of its catalog. Collectors can get lost in the histories of cult classic dive watches while marveling at modern atomic timing tech. If there were two core attributes across Citizen’s diverse offerings, they could be summed up as “tough” and “technical”. Chalk it up to Japanese excellence or decades of innovation – either way you are getting a solid product. The modern lineup of Promaster watches epitomizes the toughness and technical know-how of Citizen. It is considered the “Professional” line of watches, and here are two models to consider adding to your arsenal for your next adventure. The post Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster ...
Time+Tide
Alpina's Art Deco offering goes for old-school charm with newfangled tech.The post The Alpina Heritage Carrée Automatic brings the ’30s to the masses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Bell & Ross extends their Diver collection in partnershop with Tara Océan Foundation. Here is the new BR 03-92 Diver Tara Ocean in blue ceramic.
Time+Tide
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey debuts a new silicon nitride ceramic [Si3N4] case and a titanium variant of their in-house 8906 movement.The post The new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey removes weight, but does it add value? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. The post Windup Watch Shop Alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
After recently introducing a pilot’s watch with a fully-luminous dial and the Big Pilot perpetual in white ceramic, IWC continues to grow its aviation-inspired offerings with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. First introduced as a limited edition in 2019, the sand-coloured ceramic chronograph is now regular production and in a more wearable size of 41 mm. Initial thoughts One of the standouts in the Top Gun collection has been the Mojave Desert with its beige tones – definitely an unusual colour for a oversized sports watch. However, the colour was only applied to larger models to date. The reintroduction of the Mojave Desert in a more compact size, and standard production to boot, is a good thing – though probably not such a good thing for owners of the limited edition version. The smaller case helps with wearability, making this desirable colour combination available to a wider audience. Size aside, there is no major point of difference. The same can be said for price: the new Mojave Desert chronograph retails for US$11,700, mirroring the price tag of the other ceramic chronographs in the collection. A new size, but same style The Mojave Desert chronograph is the latest addition to the “Colours of Top Gun” collection that draws inspiration from the US Navy’s flight school. The colour choice for this model is influenced by the Mojave Desert that surrounds the US Navy’s TOPGUN fighter pilot academy, and its pilots’ distinctive flight...
Worn & Wound
This week, Louis Erard caps a fruitful, multiyear relationship with Alain Silberstein that has had a profound impact on the stock of both parties in the larger watch space. Silberstein, after a period where his watches were all the rage, had faded somewhat from our collective memory by 2021, and Louis Erard, too, was adrift. They made very high quality and unique watches for the money, but weren’t really the focus of enthusiasts and collectors. Now, through a series of collaborations with Silberstein and others, Louis Erard occupies a very different niche in the collector arena, and we’ve seen a renewed interest in Silberstein’s work as well in the years since his design language has been put spotlighted by these collaborations. Now, in what feels like a culmination of the work they’ve done together, Louis Erard has released a limited edition box set that adds a new color option to a prior collaboration, and, oh yeah, a tourbillon. No big deal. The Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki is a new spin on their second collaboration, a collection of three watches (available as a collector’s set) featuring a unique titanium case framed with brancards. The watches in that collection featured a regulator, a day-date complication, and a chronograph, all with the hallmark Silberstein combination of colorful shapes in lieu of traditional hands. For this set, the black dials have been swapped for a dark green khaki, and the chronograph is now a tourbillon. It...
Quill & Pad
What makes high end watches so desirable is the artistry involved. For some watches, it is artistry in their complexity, or their superlative hand finishing, or intricate dials, and some feature actual artwork like miniature painting. Then there are a very few timepieces that offer all of that artistry and more: one such timepiece is the unique piece Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger.
Hodinkee
Plus a sporty ceramic Zenith and a perfectly sized Panerai.
Quill & Pad
In this fourth article commemorating the 30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (following: 4 New 2023 Releases, Here Come ‘The Beasts’, and ROO F1s, High Octane Fairy Tales of Super Star Racing Drivers), here is the topic that initially interested Alexey Kutkovoy the most, i.e. the annals of the Royal Oak Offshore limited and special editions.
Worn & Wound
MAEN Watches has relaunched their vintage inspired Skymaster 38 chronograph over the weekend, adding three new updated references to the collection, including a surprising limited edition. The Skymaster feels like a watch right in MAEN’s wheelhouse: a sports watch with an aesthetic that’s clearly inspired by the past, but executed at an incredibly high level with a surprising level of detail, all at a price point that makes these watches tough to ignore. I spent some time recently with MAEN’s Brooklyn 36 reference, an old school triple calendar, and was pleasantly surprised at the level of refinement on a watch that comes in at well under $1,000. The Skymaster, now in a MKIII version, contains many similar small details. There are two big changes with this third edition of the Skymaster 38. First, the watch now runs on the new Sellita SW510Mb manually wound movement, and the case has gone through a series of little adjustments to properly house it. Previous versions of the Skymaster used automatic movements, so the inclusion of a manually wound caliber here represents a significant change, and really plays into the heritage angle of a release like this. Secondly, in addition to offering a 12 hour bezel, MAEN is now making the Skymaster with an optional tachymeter bezel as well. The more prominent tachymeter bezel changes the appearance of the Skymaster dramatically, and should prove popular with collectors who are after a more traditionally styled racing chronograp...
Time+Tide
Sporting a blue ceramic as part of IWC's Colours of Top Gun collection, the Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Oceana is the perfect casual watch.The post IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Oceana appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Join Wei and Alain Schiesser, Co-founder of Le Cercle des Horlogers SA, as they delve into the extraordinary Jacob & Co Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. This exceptional timepiece is a part of the Opera Collection, where the realms of high watchmaking seamlessly blend with the enchanting world of music. The 49mm Opera timepiece stands as […]
Worn & Wound
Collective Horology, the private watch club/independent brand retailer/producer of thoughtful limited editions, is back with their latest release in an ongoing series of collaborations. This time, they’re working with Montblanc, tapping into the brand’s association with the historic Minerva manufacture, maker of some of the most important chronograph calibers in the history of watchmaking. The 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05 is a high end “What if…?” hypothetical come to life, and a great showcase for a truly special movement. As with all Collective limited editions, this one is something more than a reissue or a tweaked colorway. It exists to tell a specific story about the brand in a way that can often only be done from the outside. According to Collective, the seed of inspiration for the P.05 came from Eric Wind, or more specifically a watch in his case at the 2022 Windup Watch Fair. That year, Eric brought a Minerva stopwatch to the show, and it reminded Collective founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin of Minerva’s sporting roots, opening up a series of entirely new design possibilities. The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph that Collective and Montblanc came up with drew on the sportier design cues from that stopwatch, including the colors, finishing techniques, and the case material (robust stainless steel, of course). The end result is a chronograph that has many key vintage inspired design elements that are core to Montblanc and Mi...
Time+Tide
Leaders in development of ceramic, Rado presents the latest in line of their cult heroes, the DiaStar Original Skeleton.The post Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Bell & Ross releases a new addition to their instrument lineup with the new BR 03 Gyrocompass: a time only watch in a black ceramic case.
Quill & Pad
Osmium is so rare and dense, has such a high melting point, and is so hard to form or compress that it has very few practical uses. But earlier this year Czapek & Cie released the limited edition Antarctique Frozen Star S with an absolutely mind-blowing dial made of pure osmium crystals.
SJX Watches
After having developed its recent offerings centred on the retrograde display, Vacheron Constantin is presently hosting High Watchmaking Retrograde Displays: A Vacheron Constantin Signature in Singapore from now till September 30, 2023. The exhibition chronicles the development of the retrograde complication from its origins in the 19th and early 20th centuries. On display are rare examples of pocket watches and wristwatches from the brand’s collection. These range from the 1930 “Bras en l’Air”, literally “Arms in the Air” (pictured above) featuring a dual retrograde display, to the more contemporary Métiers d’art Savoirs Enluminés Caper in 2015. This latter piece offers a modern interpretation of the complication, with designs from a page from a 12th century medieval manuscript. Also on show are the brand’s latest timepiece offerings that focus on this specific complication, which were initially introduced at Watches & Wonders in March of this year, like the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date. High Watchmaking Retrograde Displays: A Vacheron Constantin Signature is taking place from September 1-30, 2023 at the Vacheron Constantin boutique located at ION Orchard. It is open to the public daily from 10:00 am-8:30 pm. ION Orchard Singapore 2 Orchard Turn, #02-07 Singapore 238801 To register, visit Vacheron-constantin.com. Correction September 23, 2023: The Don Pancho minute repeater is not on shown at the exhibition, however, it is highlighted by...
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