2,980 articles · 247 videos found · page 69 of 108
Monochrome
Almost two years ago, we published a story about two young and talented watchmakers coming out of A. Lang & Söhne to set up shop for themselves. Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, founders of the Kallinich Claeys watchmaking atelier, were hard at work to develop and build their first watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde. On paper, […]
Fratello
Rolex surprised us all when the brand launched a Submariner with a green bezel in 2003. The stainless steel Sub was steadily monochromatic during the five preceding decades, so this was a bit of a shocker. The model was soon nicknamed “Kermit.” More than two decades later, it seems green is here to stay. We […] Visit Comparing Green-Bezel, Black-Dial Subs: 16610LV “Kermit” Vs. 126610LV “Starbucks” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
As the official timekeeper of the 37th America’s Cup soon taking place in Barcelona, Omega is marking the occasion with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup. A time-only version of the brand’s signature dive watch, the latest Seamaster features most of Omega’s material and movement innovations, including a laser-engraved ceramic dial and METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. The special edition also sports yachting-specific elements, including a blue ceramic bezel with a regatta countdown scale and a seconds hand counterweight in the form of the America’s Cup trophy. Initial thoughts As a special or limited edition, the new Seamaster is not especially interesting since Omega does a lot of them, with several commemorative editions for each sporting events it’s part of. And it’s not just for sports but also the James Bond film franchise. But as a new Seamaster, the America’s Cup edition works well. For one it’s a good value proposition at US$6,500 on a bracelet, particularly given the specs and features. At the same time, the blue-and-white aesthetic is appealing, especially with the clean, no-date look. And there’s the subtle detail on the minute hand with a gradual colour fade finish that is novel and so far unique in the Omega catalogue. So leaving aside that it’s yet another commemorative watch – it could do without the large logo on the sapphire back – the America’s Cup edition stands out as of the more appealing Seamaster models. A...
SJX Watches
The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...
Quill & Pad
When Rolex put the Sky-Dweller Caliber 9001 in a Rolesor case in 2017 (“Rolesor” is a Rolex term for stainless steel and gold) and dropped the price down to $14,400 Chris Malburg became a player. And, as he soon discovered, so were a goodly number of other Rolex admirers. Here is why he bought this watch and what happened then.
Worn & Wound
Longines has been experiencing significant success in the enthusiast space since their pilot-style Spirit line of watches launched. Over the last few years, they have introduced 39mm variants and a GMT version called the Spirit Zulu Time. Zulu time is a military term that refers to Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). These timepieces, also known as GMT watches, can show a second time zone using a third hand and a 24-hour scale on the dial. In December 2023, Longines partnered with Hodinkee to produce a special version of the Zulu Time in grade 5 titanium, featuring a 39mm case and limited to only 500 pieces worldwide. This special edition bore a striking resemblance to another brand’s popular GMT watch but was significantly thinner and much less slab-sided, which appealed to many collectors. As successful as that model was, Longines did step away from the original charm of the Spirit collection, leaving enthusiasts wanting a grade 5 Titanium GMT watch that was not a limited edition. They have heard the call and have just announced a new 39mm Spirit Zulu Time in this material, which fits right in with all the others in the lineup. Why are we explicitly mentioning the titanium grade used in these watches? In wristwatches, there are generally two types of titanium used. Grade 2 and grade 5, and while they both have the key qualities that make the material special (they are both very light), there is a tangible difference. Grade 2 titanium is commercially pure titanium, which ...
Monochrome
Longines’ Spirit collection has been quite the hit from the get-go. The style, fit and finish were on point and ticked a lot of boxes for a lot of people. Since its inception in 2020, we’ve seen quite an impressive and widespread run of pilot-inspired watches in varying degrees of complexity, colours and even multiple […]
Fratello
Many well-known microbrands have emerged from their niche and become bonafide small brands. Thanks to crowd-funding initiatives, we have also seen many projects jump into the small-brand status directly. Yet a cloud of skepticism seems to hang over many Facebook groups and even in our own Fratelli’s comments. That raises the big question that I […] Visit Finding Microbrand Value For €500 Or Less-Five Options From RZE, Lorier, Namica, And More to read the full article.
Monochrome
Four years ago, Mido livened up its portfolio with a funky multi-coloured reissue of its 1961 Ocean Star Skin Diver with a decompression table on the dial. Modelled after one of the most sought-after vintage models on the collector’s scene, Mido’s re-edited Rainbow Diver sold out briskly. Predicting the same successful course as the earlier […]
SJX Watches
Having been first seen as a one-off for a charity auction, the Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer is now part of the watchmaker’s catalogue. Originally conceived as a unique piece for the postponed Only Watch 2023, the Stargazer is the independent watchmaker’s most complicated wristwatch to date. Arguably the most successful Russian watchmaker today, Mr Chaykin has long had a passion for astronomy and astrophysics – he created a Martian-time watch in 2018 – so it is unsurprising that the Stargazer is heavily focused on astronomical complications, including a star chart and sunrise-sunset indicator. The complexity of the Stargazer places it in the same rarefied niche of watchmaking occupied by similar grand complications from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and F. P. Journe. Initial thoughts Virtually identical to the Only Watch unique piece, the regular-production Stargazer remains an exceptional watch. Its complexity is all the more remarkable coming from a small independent outfit, as compared to similar watches developed by large manufacturers. The Stargazer has a strong design with distinctive lines, with a style that evokes some of Mr Chaykin’s past space-inspired watches. This unique aesthetic differentiates it from most other astronomically-oriented timepieces, which are primarily classical. Additionally, the brand’s trademark Wristmon format is put to good use here, because the Stargazer is indeed a two-faced horological beast. The unique piece cr...
Monochrome
Summer is the time of year for fun in the sun, getting outdoors and simply enjoying life. So what better than to wear a suitable watch for whatever you’re doing? Swimming or scuba diving? Great, wear a dive watch! Travelling the globe? Awesome, wear a GMT watch? Heading into the mountains for a days-long trek? […]
Quill & Pad
Many think that Louis Vuitton's first watch was the Tambour, which was launched in 2002. However the brand actually began with a watch collection called Monterey in the 1980s. The Monterey I, an unusual worldtime watch designed by Gae Aulenti with date and moon phase, was soon followed by the ceramic-encased Monterey II that added an alarm function.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After a controversial release cycle at Watches & Wonders this year, Bremont seems to be iterating on a core design that probably won't raise as many eyebrows this time. The new Bremont Broadsword Recon Bronze is now the next installment within the brand's "Military" lineup. You've seen the design before, but now, Bremont is taking time to refresh some interest in models that didn't spend as much time in the spotlight earlier in the year. Personally, I like the look-even though the case material would usually lead me to shy away.
SJX Watches
Blancpain range of vintage inspired dive watches grows to include a pair of top-of-the-line models, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and Chronographe Flyback, both in 18k red gold with a matching red gold bracelet. Previously available only with a fabric strap, the new duo feature a gradient blue dial with a sun-ray finish and a matching blue ceramic bezel insert. Initial thoughts First released in 1956 as a more compact version of the Fifty Fathoms, the Bathyscaphe was reissued as a sportier and smaller sibling of the modern-day Fifty Fathoms. The Bathyscaphe line encompasses complications and various materials, including the recent all-ceramic models. The new pair continue to extend the line in terms of materials; they are the only models in the entire Fifty Fathoms range with a matching gold bracelet. The all-gold look is of course not for everyone, but the new pair have an extravagant appeal, particularly the chronograph that looks and feels like an ultra-luxe sports watch. The all-gold look, however, comes at a price. Both are cost US$55,300, which is far from the accessible price point of their all-ceramic counterparts. The price is arguably justified by Blancpain’s easily discernible quality, though the brand lacks the cachet of its peers in the same price segment, which makes these high-end models a very niche offering. The red gold models are also available with a fabric strap. Fully red gold Both the Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and Chr...
Monochrome
Returning to the scene in 2020 with Guillaume Laidet at the helm, Nivada Grenchen had plenty of tricks up its sleeve thanks to its rich repertoire of mid-20th-century tool watches. Reviving some of its most famous models – the Chronomaster, the Depthmaster, or the Super Antarctic – Nivada Grenchen has gained a cult following among […]
Monochrome
When it comes to Panerai, we’ve seen the brand getting slightly out of track from time to time, with complex movements, smaller watches with low water-resistance and innovative materials that didn’t feel too convincing. So, when the brand introduces a nice-looking, straightforward model that does everything you want from a Panerai, we somehow have to […]
Fratello
Since Vulcain decided to focus more on models outside of its bread-and-butter alarm watches, we have seen an array of new models coming to the market. Primarily based on vintage timepieces, the new Vulcain models include chronographs, time-only watches, and divers. The last of those is an exciting line consisting of the Nautical Heritage alarm […] Visit Hands-On With The New Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT to read the full article.
Monochrome
Master watchmaker Svend Andersen has been a renowned figure on the independent watchmaking scene since 1980. The Danish watchmaker’s ingenious and original approach to complications, including his sophisticated calendar watches and world timers, has captivated collectors and top-tier watch brands for years. To celebrate his 40th anniversary in watchmaking in 2020, Svend Andersen produced a […]
Teddy Baldassarre
In recent years there has been a flurry of small watch brands that have succeeded in making a big impact on the watch-collector community and in the overall watch industry. With new watchmakers coming on the scene from almost every corner of the world, with styles ranging from vintage to traditional to avant-garde, which of these brands are worth paying attention to, and why? We asked two veteran watch-industry watchers and commentators (and regular fixtures on TeddyBaldassarre.com) - contributing writer Blake Buettner (former managing editor of Worn & Wound and founder of The Deep Track); and our Director of Editorial Content, Mark Bernardo (former senior editor of WatchTime magazine) - to name five small watch brands that are on their radar in 2025. Formex (Switzerland) Formex is, in many ways, an interesting brand and manufacturer. Its design DNA is quite bold and won’t be to everyone’s taste, but it’s matured quite nicely in recent years, though the true story of this brand goes deeper still. Formex designs and manufactures many of the components used in the case and bracelet, from a quick-adjustment system to a full case suspension (explained in this article), so there’s plenty to appreciate when it comes to mechanical ingenuities. On top of that, Formex is aggressively experimental when it comes to working with novel materials, offering rarities like forged carbon cases and stone dials across its lineup. What I love about Formex is the company...
Worn & Wound
It may be hard to believe, but it’s already been two weeks since the sun set on Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024. What’s not hard to believe is that, over three days in the Windy City, summer’s hottest watch fair hosted more visitors than ever before. With over 60 brands in attendance, it was no wonder the crowds were willing to brave a heat wave to experience what was unquestionably a very special show. Above all else, we want to thank everyone who made their way to Venue West for what was a very fun weekend, whether you walked, took the train, drove, or even flew to Chicago, it was a pleasure to have you all-Windup wouldn’t be what it is without the enthusiasts of all stripes who come out to enjoy the show. To those who weren’t able to make it to Chicago this summer, we’re certainly sorry to have missed you, and we hope this recap (and some of our others!) can give you a taste of what the weekend was about and inspire you to attend the next Windup Watch Fair. In the meantime, here’s a video recap to give you a sense of what to expect! An incredible group of brands anchored the energetic Fair; Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, and Oris-all of whom helped set the mood for a remarkable show and who we were thrilled to see return as lead sponsors. There is no doubt that their presence continues to help Windup level up, and we are incredibly grateful for their continued support. Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Windup couldn’t exist wit...
Monochrome
End of July, the sun is out, temperatures are rising and the sea is blue… This is the time of the year when a high-end dress watch doesn’t make much sense. Unless you’ll spend your holidays reading books in an air-conditioned library (no judgment, if that’s your thing), most of us will spend time next […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Annual calendar watches have been on the scene for a while now, though they remain a somewhat niche area of horological interest - not as revered as lofty complications like the perpetual calendar and minute repeater but also not as obsessed over as more down-to-earth mechanisms like chronographs and GMTs. And yet, the annual calendar offers not only one of the most practical functions for an everyday wearer, but has also proven to be a canvas for some truly engaging designs. As per its name, an annual calendar displays the day, date, and month and need only be manually adjusted by its wearer once per year, at the end of February. Patek Philippe's Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar introduced in 2023 Most of the wristwatch complications we’re familiar with are relatively ancient in origin, and almost all of them old enough to have debuted in pocketwatches rather than wristwatches. The first wristwatch chronograph, made by Longines, appeared in 1913; the first minute repeater for the wrist goes all the way back to 1892, invented by Louis Brandt, founder of Omega; and the first wrist-borne perpetual calendar made its debut in 1925, engineered by none other than Patek Philippe, which had actually invented the compact-sized movement for it as early as 1889, using it at the time in a ladies’ pendant watch. The annual calendar, by contrast, even though it might seem to today’s enthusiasts to be a fixture among luxury watch complications, is much younger, tracing its origin st...
SJX Watches
Affordable and powered by the sun, the Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC947 is dressed in the blue, red, and orange synonymous with the vintage “Pogue” chronograph. It’s not, however, a vintage re-issue but a modern take on a vintage design. “Pogue” refers to the vintage ref. 6139 that gets its name from astronaut William Pogue, who wore one during the Skylab 4 mission in 1973, making it the first automatic chronograph in space. Initial thoughts Seiko is expert at vintage re-issues at practically every price point, from the Seiko 5 Sports “Kamen Rider” to the Grand Seiko “First”. This isn’t the case for the SSC947, which mimics the Pogue’s colours but is otherwise a modern-day Prospex Speedtimer. That’s a good thing for everyone tired of historical remakes, although traditionalists might say the SSC947 doesn’t do justice to the original that’s something of a cult classic amongst Seiko enthusiasts. But the bottom line is, the SSC947 is an appealing, different alternative to the mostly conservative colours in the Prospex Speedtimer line. And it’s priced identically to earlier versions of the watch, so it offers the same value proposition. Dressed in the “Pogue” colour scheme The “Pogue” Featuring a two-tone red and blue tachymeter bezel, the SSC947 has a radially-brushed orange dial with brown sub-dials, just like its vintage inspiration. The flange around the dial is in dark brown to match the sub-dials. The specs are otherwise i...
Fratello
The Casio G-Shock GA-2100 series became a fan favorite immediately after its introduction and a staple of the collection soon after that. But despite it being one of the defining model lines in the G-Shock collection, we had not seen a premium MR-G version since the introduction of the “CasiOak” silhouette in 2019. That wait […] Visit Hands-On With The Impressive Casio G-Shock MRG-B2100B-1A to read the full article.
Fratello
I think it’s fair to say that the Casio F-91W is a watch with legendary status. In this feature, I look at why such status is well deserved. The Casio F-91W has served well on the wrists of people around the globe. In my travels as a journalist, I have regularly seen the F-91W on […] Visit Spending Time With The Casio F-91W - A Watch Far More Rugged Than We May Think to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Nesr Ferrotex First up this week we have a really cool one that I have never seen, never even heard of! This vintage Nesr Ferrotex has a fantastic look, with a classic Oyster style case with the Thunderbird style grooved bezel. This is often referred to as “engine turned,” but that never seemed very accurate to me. The white(ish) dial is clean, featuring faceted arrowhead markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 with slim stick markers elsewhere. No date, or anything else to mess up the beautiful symmetry. The steel case measures 35mm and looks sharp and unpolished. The caseback has a gold medallion (like King Seiko or Omega Constellation, etc) with an eagle on it. The seller states that Nesr means eagle in Arabic, which would make sense. Nice clean manual wind movement that runs well per the seller. Great, unique piece for any collection! View auction here Vintage Timex “UFO” Here’s an interesting one, a vintage Timex Electronic “UFO”. The wide disc-shaped case measures 42mm in diameter and is chrome plated. It shows minimal wear and definitely still looks good. The two-tone gold bullseye style dial is clean, with different textures on the inner/outer dial and the bullseye ring. Thi...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! We’re continuing our search for the best releases of the first half of the year. This week’s list focuses on the best chronographs we have seen in the first six months of 2024. After a quick meeting, we discovered it’s been a great year so far for fans of chronographs. We […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Chronographs Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Omega, Cartier, Parmigiani, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Established two years ago by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver has just named the first outsider to its management ranks with James Marks as chief executive officer. The longtime head of Phillips Perpetual, the auctioneer’s watch boutique headquartered in London, Mr Marks is now based in Zurich for his new role; he remains a consultant to Phillips. (Pictured above, from left: James Marks, Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver.) Now 74 years old, the inimitable Jean-Claude Biver is something of an industry legend for having resurrected Blancpain and Hublot, but his eponymous brand is the first venture that is his own. Or more specifically, a Biver family affair: his youngest son Pierre, who is turning 25 this year, was cofounder of the brand. Mr Marks, who is 44 years old, will both help lead the brand as well as manage the transition from one generation of Bivers to the next. The movement of the one-off Biver Catharsis Minute Repeater Carillon Mr Marks is a longtime watch enthusiast who was a fund manager before he joined the watch industry six years ago. Soon after he set up Perpetual, a then-novel concept for an auction house where watches were available for sale year-round and not only during auction season. One of his earliest hires was Pierre Biver as an intern. Both an industry insider and outsider, Mr Marks is expected to bring a new perspective to Biver. Although the brand has only sold a few dozen watches to date, it has garnered volumes of praise and criticism...
Fratello
You might say that Omega’s Summer Blue collection is old news in 2024, and you’d be right. Omega’s Summer Blue line was hot and trendy in 2023, but it’s been a year, and aside from a few underwhelming Olympic models, we have not seen much from the Biel/Bienne-based brand. OK, there were the white-dial and […] Visit A Belated Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Blue to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Farer unveils the Monopusher GMT in two variants, Cobb and Segrave, names might be familiar to those following the brand, as they were also the names of its now-discontinued single-button chronograph models. The new Monopusher GMT offerings are essentially identical in design to their respective predecessors but now sport a second time zone. Both models share the same cushion-shaped stainless steel case, similar to that used for the Chronograph Hand-Wound, but thicker to accommodate the triple-stacked hands in the centre. Initial thoughts Micro brands occupy a unique niche in the market. They often equip their watches with no-frills but cost-efficient ETA or Selita calibres, or even cheaper movements, but set themselves apart aesthetically while excelling at marketing online. Farer is a perfect example of this, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The hand-wind Sellita calibre inside the Monopusher GMT is elaboré grade, but still basic. Farer, however, has done a good job at dressing it up. The Segrave on a “Milanese” bracelet And over on the front, the overall design is simple and clearly vintage inspired, but still manages to possess the Farer aesthetic thanks to its use of geometric shapes and primary colours. The cushion-shaped case has a familiar 1970s style, but it stands out with a knurled surface on the recessed case sides. Priced at US$2,195, the Farer Monopusher GMT is priced similar to its “micro” brand competitors but offers good value compared to e...
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