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INTRODUCING: The critics were wrong, and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time flies again, this time as the 7234G-001 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Sep 22, 2020

INTRODUCING: The critics were wrong, and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time flies again, this time as the 7234G-001

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in its first iteration, ref 5524G-001 definitely caught our attention when it was released. We called it the most confusing watch of Baselworld 2015. Patek Philippe had anticipated the sceptical reaction, and the opening line of their press release about the watch sought to quickly legitimise it – referring to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The critics were wrong, and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time flies again, this time as the 7234G-001 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; Introduces the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’ SJX Watches
Casio nally collaborations Sep 22, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’

Conceived as an imagined, 19th-century take on MB&F;’s uber-modern, sci-fi inspired Horological Machines, the Legacy Machines (LM) draw inspiration from the aesthetic of the era – and the works of Jules Verne – to create a steampunk-meets-classical-watchmaking timepiece. Now the spirit of the LM have been made tangible with the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’.  The series is limited to just eight watches in red gold, each featuring a dial depicting a scene from Verne’s novels, rendered in minute detail with the hand engraving of Eddy Jaquet, a Swiss artisan who has worked with an array of watchmakers but perhaps best known for his work on Voutilainen watches. Initial thoughts The new LM Split Escapement (SE) is a departure from the typical MB&F; watch, which usually emphasises technical aspects, like movement construction or finishing, or case design and materials (and occasionally collaborations with contemporary artists). Instead the new LM SE is all about artisanal craft, something that is familiar territory for independent watchmakers like Voutilainen but novel for MB&F;. Though such artistically decorated timepieces are not a traditional strength of MB&F;, the result is an attractive watch. The engraving is impressively done, and avoids appearing monochromatic thanks to its depth. The intricate, pictorial engraving also complements the style of the LM, making the whole greater than the sum of the parts. In fact, it can be argued that the original LM SE w...

GPHG 2020 – 5 disruptive nominees that should be winners in a chaotic and disrupted year Time+Tide
Sep 22, 2020

GPHG 2020 – 5 disruptive nominees that should be winners in a chaotic and disrupted year

As the inaugural peak of Haute Horlogerie appreciation is upon us, a renewed GPHG convenes. This time with an expanded panel of judges, a semi-online voting process, and, refreshingly, with a truly broad range of nominees. There is a sense that perhaps disruption is the plat du jour. So, let the GPHG roll on with … ContinuedThe post GPHG 2020 – 5 disruptive nominees that should be winners in a chaotic and disrupted year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year) Time+Tide
Longines watches released Sep 22, 2020

The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year)

This year has been a big one for Longines - for a couple of reasons. They have continued down the purist pathway of vintage reissues through their Heritage collection, as well as continuing to build their other enthusiast-favourite families such as the Record and HydroConquest collections. But the biggest news from Longines in 2020 was the … ContinuedThe post The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ralph Lauren Introduces The Polo Watch SJX Watches
Hautlence Sep 21, 2020

Ralph Lauren Introduces The Polo Watch

One of the 20th century’s most enduring fashion emblems, the mallet-wielding polo player has been synonymous with Ralph Lauren since the 1970s. Found on everything from polo shirts to furniture – which admitted makes it excessively common – the logo now makes its debut on the Ralph Lauren Polo Watch. Because Ralph Lauren’s watch division is run by Guillaume Tetu, cofounder of independent watch brand Hautlence, the Polo Watch is an affordable mechanical watch, rather than a quartz watch with a logo. Automatic and Swiss made, the Polo Watch has the polo player on the dial printed in several layers of lacquer for a more three-dimensional result. Initial thoughts Having grown up in the 1990s when the polo-player shirt was something of a fad, this watch does have some nineties nostalgia to it. And despite appearances to the contrary, it is a proper watch with a solid automatic movement inside. Mr Tetu stated the goal was to make it proper mechanical watch rather than a “fashion” watch, and he succeeded; the Polo Watch appears to be as well put together as other watches in the US$2,000 price segment. It’s executed simply, but sufficiently well. Probably most attention was paid to the polo player on the dial, the visual focus of the watch. The polo player is printed with a good level of detail – Mr Tetu says the figure is meant of have the appeal of a miniature painting – and succeeds in seemingly being on the dial rather than part of its surface. The only sh...

VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here Time+Tide
Seiko Sep 21, 2020

VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here

For fans of the prolific Japanese animation studio Studio Ghibli, the name Porco Rosso will be familiar to you. He’s the ace biplane pilot who learned the art of flying in World War I, before being turned into a pig and then, turning his skills to fighting pirate crime. He has legions of fans around … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s 2020 releases Sep 21, 2020

VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier

There are certain experiences we have on a regular basis at Time+Tide that you may not be aware of, or have shared in any way. Yes, even you, hardcore fans. COVID-19 has made it possible for us to bring you in on it. It’s the presentation of the watches. The way we learn about them. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer*: A Superlative Watch But Is It Really A Chronometer? Quill & Pad
Sep 20, 2020

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer*: A Superlative Watch But Is It Really A Chronometer?

According to Joshua Munchow, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most astounding pieces to be released in 2020, and when he first saw it on social media he actually gasped out loud. The more that he looked at it the more he fell in love with the style, the engineering, and the concept behind the movement. But he must ask: is it really a chronometer?

MB&F; HM10 Bulldog: Forget The Dog, Beware Of The Owner (Video) Quill & Pad
MB&F; Sep 20, 2020

MB&F; HM10 Bulldog: Forget The Dog, Beware Of The Owner (Video)

Inspired by a bulldog, MB&F;’s Horological Machine No. 10 features a rounded, stocky body; the time display forms its eyes; and the stout legs form the lugs, hugging its owner fiercely and loyally. But what is more likely to attract your eye are the wildly canine jaws with teeth that open and shut according to the amount of tension in the mainspring. The Watches TV takes a close look (but not too close - woof!).

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 Sep 20, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP

Two brands, both brash, bold, loud and cutting edge. Well, OK, not loud in the same sense as a V12 engine, but Hublot is a perfect fit as the watchmaking partner to Ferrari. This time, it is a celebration of Ferrari’s 1000th Grand Prix, a milestone in Formula One’s 70th anniversary year and, yes, it … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The baby blue and black Bamford G-SHOCK 5610 sold out in 6 minutes, which sucks, because it’s great Time+Tide
Rolex watches all Sep 19, 2020

The baby blue and black Bamford G-SHOCK 5610 sold out in 6 minutes, which sucks, because it’s great

The democratisation of watch modification has been sinking in for a few years, moving from diamond-encrusted Rolex watches, all the way down to swapping out a set of hands on your favourite Seiko SKX. In recent times, it’s become apparent that watch brands are trying to cover their bases and provide the unique look of … ContinuedThe post The baby blue and black Bamford G-SHOCK 5610 sold out in 6 minutes, which sucks, because it’s great appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The dream brief: “No deadline, no restrictions on budget, no pressure.” Eric Ku’s Audemars Piguet restoration will make you melt Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet restoration will make you Sep 19, 2020

The dream brief: “No deadline, no restrictions on budget, no pressure.” Eric Ku’s Audemars Piguet restoration will make you melt

The absolutely magical story embedded in our latest Watch & Chill Episode revolves around the unusual story of Eric Ku’s vintage Audemars Piguet chronograph restoration. To say the watch is rare is laughably inadequate. There are 307 vintage-era Audemars Piguet chronographs in existence. Every single one of them is a piece unique (more about that … ContinuedThe post The dream brief: “No deadline, no restrictions on budget, no pressure.” Eric Ku’s Audemars Piguet restoration will make you melt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Focus On Materials: Primer On The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise Quill & Pad
Sep 19, 2020

Focus On Materials: Primer On The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

INTRODUCING: The brand new Seiko Alpinist SPB155J and its siblings SPB157J and SPB159J Time+Tide
Seiko Alpinist SPB155J Sep 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The brand new Seiko Alpinist SPB155J and its siblings SPB157J and SPB159J

The Seiko Alpinist series is a beloved staple of enthusiasts on watch forums and Instagram, with its comfortable shape, size and particular Japanese take on a sophisticated field watch with a rich history. Earlier this year, changes came to the lineup, with the Alpinist logo no longer present, and the Prospex X above the historical … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The brand new Seiko Alpinist SPB155J and its siblings SPB157J and SPB159J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: How Hermès got away from LVMH – and thrived Time+Tide
Hermes Sep 18, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: How Hermès got away from LVMH – and thrived

Editor’s note: How did Hermès not only survive, but manage to thrive after resisting a takeover bid from LVMH? This story tells the tale. And leaves out what might be the best bit for us, as watch lovers. Which is Hermès’ ongoing ascendancy in watchmaking. Who could forget the extraordinary Arceau L’heure de la lune … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How Hermès got away from LVMH – and thrived appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sorry, it’s short this week, I’m thirsty … Time+Tide
Sep 17, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sorry, it’s short this week, I’m thirsty …

Some Friday Wind Downs are long, some have a point, and others are just the last thing standing between me and a cold, cold beer. That’s a dangerous place to be at the best of times - in Australia we talk about “murdering” a beer, we don’t mess around - but after a week like this, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sorry, it’s short this week, I’m thirsty … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte: Dead Seconds, Independently (Video) Quill & Pad
Petermann Bédat Sep 17, 2020

Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte: Dead Seconds, Independently (Video)

Petermann Bédat is a young company comprising a youthful duo of independent watchmakers by the names of Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. Their first watch features a deadbeat style of seconds created with the help of grand master Dominique Renaud. Our friends at The Watches TV hosted Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat in their Geneva studio to find out more. Watch their talk here!

Get ready, one more sleep till you can order the ultimate unisex summer watch, the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro U1-MY2 Time+Tide
Unimatic Sep 17, 2020

Get ready, one more sleep till you can order the ultimate unisex summer watch, the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro U1-MY2

Unimatic’s tough Italian exterior gets the touch of Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro in a marriage of crisp white Cerakote™ and extreme minimalism. Unimatic, based in Milan, has a strong reputation for their no-nonsense tough 40mm tool watches, with their bold cases and stubby-perfect 49mm lug-to-lug length. With the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro they have managed … ContinuedThe post Get ready, one more sleep till you can order the ultimate unisex summer watch, the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro U1-MY2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook now comes Sep 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future

Every now and then you’ll come across something that makes you think, “Why doesn’t everyone do this?” This was what came to mind when I was considering the Rado Captain Cook with interchangeable straps, which offers a pretty practical solution to the limited versatility of a watch that only comes with one bracelet or strap. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The strong will get stronger, and the weak “will eventually disappear”, Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic Time+Tide
Sep 16, 2020

The strong will get stronger, and the weak “will eventually disappear”, Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic

We spoke to Jean-Claude Biver recently for an upcoming feature-length video, and while we were on Zoom, the conversation turned to the pandemic. We took the opportunity to ask him some pointed questions about the industry’s recovery. How long does he think it will take? Who will be the winners and losers? He also shared … ContinuedThe post The strong will get stronger, and the weak “will eventually disappear”, Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Review Sep 16, 2020

Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Review

Early this year, Breitling announced a series of new watches for 2020. In it was the revival of the Superocean Heritage ‘57. This particular model stood out for us and now we finally have the chance to go hands-on. This particular model, reference A10370161C1X1, is part of Breitling’s Capsules collection where they pay tribute to the 1950’s and 1960’s laidback surfing lifestyles. Breitling drew design inspirations from the songs created by musicians such as Beach Boys, Jay and Dan and the Ventures.  Reference A10370161C1X1 CEO of Breitling, Mr. Georges Kern said “The Capsule Collections let us tell some of our brand’s most inspiring stories while we produce some remarkably unique watches for a limited amount of time. With the Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection, we’ve focused on the relaxed Southern California fun-in-the-sun culture that defined an era. The surfing itself in the 1950s and 1960s is at the heart of our storytelling here, but those times offered so much more: the great music, the amazing cars, and the almost spiritual connection to freedom found on endless sandy beaches and in the search for the perfect wave.”  We chose to go hands on with the blue dial SOH ’57 (reference A10370161C1X1) as it caught our eye. Reference A10370161C1X1 Breitling SOH ’57 Case: SOH ‘57 comes in a 42mm size casing and the case is constructed from stainless steel. The dial without the concave bezel is measured at just 38mm!. With a thickness of just u...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Collection It’s been Sep 15, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection

It’s been a great year for new watches, and one of the biggest contributors to this slew of attractive wristwatches is TAG Heuer, who continue their run of strong releases in 2020. The latest release from the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker is the TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, adding another feather to the Carrera cap after the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties show the “jeweller of time” in absolutely top form Time+Tide
Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties Sep 15, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties show the “jeweller of time” in absolutely top form

It cannot be refuted how much Switzerland has influenced horology and the luxury watch industry at large. As a result, designs across brands can seem familiar when they all draw from the same well of inspiration and technique. Bulgari, however, continues to stand out from the pack, blending its Swiss watchmaking know-how with its Italian … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties show the “jeweller of time” in absolutely top form appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary SJX Watches
Cartier Santos or Ebel – Sep 14, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary

Originally just a model name for the bestselling watch of the brand MDM (short for Montre des Montres), Hublot got off the ground with one of the “it” watches of the 1980s that a first in combining yellow gold with a rubber strap. The brand is now 40 years old and a global success thanks to a late-in-life rejuvenation. To commemorate the occasion – which chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe hinted at in January – the brand has unveiled the sleek and simple Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary modelled on the original Hublot wristwatch of 1980. Minimalist in style, the anniversary watch sticks to the restrained look of the maritime-inspired original – hublot is French for “porthole” – but is substantially larger to cater to modern tastes. And like the original it is available in 18k yellow gold – combining the precious metal and rubber was a novelty in 1980 – but also in titanium or black ceramic. The 1980 model in steel (left) and the anniversary edition Initial thoughts While modern-day Hublot watches are often maximalist and sometimes over the top, the anniversary Classic Fusion is the opposite, a look that works well with the case and bezel. The 1980 original was a compact, pared-back watch that was at odds with the fashionable watches of the era – think two-tone Cartier Santos or Ebel – and proof that less is more. The dial of the remake sticks closely to the original, with a white-on-black date that is a welcome improvement. But the addition of ...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph

Last year’s debut of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet was widely panned, with with most of the criticism centred on the dial that was widely regarded to be flat. That left the highlight of the new model to go unnoticed – a new case made up of an intriguing blend of geometric forms and intricate edges. Just after launching warmly-received variants with smoked dials (following last year’s Bolshoi edition in smoked-finish enamel), Audemars Piguet has taken the covers off the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, which follows the aesthetic direction set by the record-setting Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”. Initial thoughts Audemars Piguet did well in combining two classical complications – a flyback chronograph and flying tourbillon – in a surprisingly contemporary and slightly sporty watch, which owes its looks to the complementary movement and case design. The skeletonised movement echoes the clean, angular lines of the case and open-worked lugs. A newly-developed movement – and one seemingly designed from ground-up as a skeleton – the cal. 2952 is thoughtfully constructed with a neatly symmetrical layout. As important is the high-contrast finish that emphasises the skeletonisation, achieved with rhodium-plated bridges against a matte-black base plate. The styling of the watch addresses the key shortcoming of the original Code 11.59 – the plain dial – and allows the Code 11.59 to come into its own with a cohesive des...

MICRO MONDAYS: The MAALS Giri Ventiquattro is the quirkiest and most creative automotive related watch we’ve seen this year Time+Tide
Sep 13, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The MAALS Giri Ventiquattro is the quirkiest and most creative automotive related watch we’ve seen this year

If you’re a motoring enthusiast, you know that the glory is in the details. Few vehicle manufacturers latched onto this ethos as much as Italian companies did in the ’60s and ’70s, designing breathtaking, voluptuous bodywork, with the most luxurious interior touches. Whether it was seats, shift knobs, or the instrument cluster, everything had to … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The MAALS Giri Ventiquattro is the quirkiest and most creative automotive related watch we’ve seen this year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is the Undone Vintage Killy actually good? How could it be for under $500? Time+Tide
Sep 13, 2020

HANDS-ON: Is the Undone Vintage Killy actually good? How could it be for under $500?

Undone are reaching a point of ubiquity in the microbrand world where it is probably prudent to have tried one on the wrist. With, of course, one prevailing question in mind – how could these watches deliver on their looks? We ordered a couple in. Because, somehow Undone seem able to keep up a huge … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Undone Vintage Killy actually good? How could it be for under $500? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.