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Flieger Watches: A Brief History and 14 Modern Fliegers from Entry-Lev Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 8, 2023

Flieger Watches: A Brief History and 14 Modern Fliegers from Entry-Lev

“Flieger” is the German word for “flier” - contrary to what you may have read elsewhere, it’s not the direct translation of “pilot” (that would actually be “pilot”) - and if you’re a traveler visiting Germany, it’s a helpful word to know, as it helps to understand other related terms: German airlines call their flights “flugs” and Germany calls its airports “flughafens.” Flieger is also the term that’s been widely adopted as shorthand for a specific style of pilot’s watch - one that traces its origins to World War II and which is still popular among an avid group of watch enthusiasts today. Flieger watches trace their origins to a type of timekeeper developed in the 1930s for German military aviators called the B-Uhr, short for Beobachtungs-Uhren, which translates to “observation watches.” B-Uhr watches, the first of which were property of the German government rather than the Luftwaffe pilots who wore them, adhered to strict specifications. Their cases were enormous for a wrist-borne watch at the time, at 55mm in diameter, and they accordingly housed movements that were originally made for pocket watches. These movements all incorporated the mission-critical hacking seconds function and were protected from magnetism by soft iron inner cages to ensure their functionality in an airplane cockpit. The dials were designed to be ultra-readable, with large white Arabic numerals on an expansive black background and flame-blued, luminou...

My Grandpa’s Casio Worn & Wound
Rolex Sep 7, 2023

My Grandpa’s Casio

Watches are funny little things, aren’t they? These wonderful relics of artful ingenuity remain with us for decades, reminding us of where we’ve been, and who we’ve been there with. Many of you all, I’m sure, have a watch that once belonged to a loved one. Your pops’ Rolex; your grandparents’ pocket watch. You treasure it-it either adorns your wrist every day, or it sits in a protective box on display or tucked away. Wherever it is, I want you to get it. I want you to hold it in your hand right now; and if not a watch, hold that thing that remains from a loved one lost. You got it? Good. Please keep it in hand while I tell you about my grandpa (Frank Lavista) and the Casio he left behind.  About a year and a half after my grandpa passed I was sitting with my grandma, sipping espresso and groaning my way through an episode of Days of Our Lives. When, at 2pm, I heard a little wristwatch alarm from her bedroom. I’d heard it a few times before and paid it no mind, as after a minute it stopped beeping anyway. But today I wanted to know why my grandma had a watch alarm going off everyday. She said, “it’s grandpa’s watch,” as if he were still here. “You can have it if you want,” snapping the reality back. I went into her bedroom, and saw the Casio W96H-1BV sitting atop the dresser. A practical watch for a practical, and stingy, person.  My grandpa rarely splurged, and never bothered with little inconveniences like changing watch batteries. When the b...

Blancpain and Swatch Team Up on the $400 Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms SJX Watches
Blancpain Sep 7, 2023

Blancpain and Swatch Team Up on the $400 Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms

In a long expected move after the success of the MoonSwatch, Swatch with its sister brand Blancpain for another colourful wristwatch modelled on a historical timepiece. The Swatch x Blancpain Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms pays homage to Blancpain’s iconic dive watch of the same name, which celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. The Scuba Fifty Fathoms collection consists of five watches in different colours, each representing one of the five oceans of the world. Inside the plastic-ceramic composite case is a Sistem51 automatic movement, a nod to Blancpain’s historical motto of “Since 1735 there has never been a quartz Blancpain watch”. Priced at US$400, it will be available at select Swatch boutiques starting September 9, 2023.  The movement of each is decorated to match the model Initial thoughts On its face, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms is a charming reinterpretation of Blancpain’s signature dive watch, making a historical model more accessible. Given the niche nature of the vintage original, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms will certainly not inspire the same fanatical enthusiasm as the MoonSwatch, but it will introduces Blancpain’s distinctive sports watch to a wider range of clients. Conversely, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms might not bring much advantage to Blancpain, a brand that has lost market share in its segment of luxury mechanical watches for a variety of reasons, none of which are alleviated by this launch. Furthermore, the new Swatch collaboration raises ques...

Laco Introduces the Atacama Quartz UTC, a True Tool No Matter How You Slice It Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Sep 6, 2023

Laco Introduces the Atacama Quartz UTC, a True Tool No Matter How You Slice It

Doomsday preppers and the most hardcore of watch collectors are in for a real treat. German watch manufacturer Laco is doubling down on the success of its Atacama.2 by introducing the Atacama Quarz UTC. It’s a more affordable and focused watch with a new trick up its sleeve: GMT functionality. Primarily known for their excellent pilot watches, Laco has collaborated closely with German soldiers, firefighters, and other action-oriented professionals to hone their “Squad and Sport” timepieces. It only takes a glance to understand. You can learn a lot about this watch in its name. It’s still an Atacama, which means it shares the same PVD-coated treatment, date complication, rubber strap, unidirectional bezel, and matte dial as the Atacama.2. But now it’s powered by quartz, “Quarz” in German, and features an independent GMT – or UTC – hand. The new watch is 46mm in diameter, but the Ronda 515 GMT quartz movement inside has enabled Laco to slim the watch down to 10.5mm with a “contact area” of just 34mm. This is also in part due to the conical shape of the case, allowing the watch to feel much smaller and comfortable on the wrist than its maximum diameter may suggest. The use of black PVD-coating and generous amounts of lume on the hands, dial, and bezel result in a watch that is supremely legible to its wearer while remaining subdued to would-be onlookers (or enemies). The crown at twelve o-clock is integrated into and protected by the articulating lugs. D...

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe Sep 6, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe introduces even more complexity and depth At 39mm in diameter, it’s a comfortable fit for such a visually-loud watch The skeletonised dial artfully shows off the ML115S movement, based on a Sellita SW200 Maurice Lacroix aren’t afraid to get experimental, and the Urban Tribe is a key example … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a Pair of New Dial Options for the Polaris Chronograph Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Sep 5, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a Pair of New Dial Options for the Polaris Chronograph

First launched in the 1960’s, then resurrected in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris has long been a standard-bearing watch for the luxury Swiss watchmaker. Now, five years on from the relaunch of the Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre has reinvisioned the watch in two new ways. Recently, the brand has added two new signature dials to new Polaris Chronograph line-up that not only showcase the artisanal craftsmanship of the house, but also raises the question of when does a sports watch become a piece of art? Each watch in the new collection displays the technical precision that has become synonymous with the brand. The two dials – a rich blue and a sporty gray – are made from applying lacquer to the dial, giving these timepieces a richness that nicely juxtaposes the 42mm steel case. The lacquered finish works as a backdrop to a complex dial that packs a punch, including a well-balanced set of subdials at 3 o’clock (featuring a 30-minute timer) and a running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The entire dial is encompassed in an outer ring that is marked with the tachymeter scale while both variants are accented in a pleasantly contrasting orange.  On the reverse of the watch is a sapphire crystal caseback which reveals the automatic Calibre 761 movement, which houses a generous 65-hour power reserve. The final touches of this movement include blued screws and Côtes de Genève decoration on the baseplate as well as on the signature open-worked winding rotor bearing the ‘JL...

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Brew x Worn & Wound Sep 5, 2023

Introducing the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulators

Normal is boring. Normal is not original. Normal is never pushing boundaries. People are not normal. People are unique. People are all limited editions of one. Not being normal has always been in the DNA of Brew Watch Company, founded by Jonathan Ferrer. This is why we’ve covered Brew on Worn & Wound since its launch back in 2015. When other brands were sticking to round cases, Brew went rectangular. When other brands were focused on mid-century divers, Brew made watches inspired by the joy of coffee. Brew didn’t zig when others zagged, because they were never on the same road to begin with. The post Introducing the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulators appeared first on Worn & Wound.

How marine chronometers shaped horology today Time+Tide
Sep 5, 2023

How marine chronometers shaped horology today

Navigation is definitely taken for granted these days. Not that I don’t personally rely on Google Maps to take me pretty much everywhere, but the art of traversing the globe was one of the most difficult, frightening, and often heroic skills for thousands of years in human history. As if finding your way through icy … ContinuedThe post How marine chronometers shaped horology today appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser Collaborates with MB&F; for Only Watch Stunner Pandamonium Streamliner Worn & Wound
H. Moser Collaborates Sep 5, 2023

H. Moser Collaborates with MB&F; for Only Watch Stunner Pandamonium Streamliner

Earlier this summer, Only Watch revealed their 2023 collection of watches set to be auctioned later this year in Geneva to raise funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy and neuromuscular diseases. Participating brands from across the industry create unique, on-off watches (or clocks), some of which you can read about right here, and a few even took the opportunity to collaborate. While most of the watches were revealed, a few brands play things a little closer to the vest. One such collaboration was revealed this week during Geneva Watch Days, with Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan introducing the H. Moser x MB&F; Streamliner Pandamonium.  These two brands have a history working together, and tout a creative relationship that has given us co-signed watches in the past within MB&F;’s Legacy Machine collection, and H. Moser’s Endeavour collection. Their latest effort builds on themes we’ve seen them explore in the past, done in entirely new ways, within the H. Moser Streamliner. The watch is called the Streamliner Pandamonium, and it features a unique, one-off movement that sets a minute repeater around MB&F;’s flying buttress, with the hammers of the chiming mechanism being ‘operated’ by a small, hand-crafted panda DJ figure. You can also get a read on the time via the hands set around the 2 o’clock position, similar to the execution on the LM101 done with H. Moser. The case is rendered in steel for its resonating qualities, and is sized at 42mm in...

Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic Sep 5, 2023

Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie

Audemars Piguet turned to an unorthodox material for its latest striking timepiece, the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in black ceramic. Introduced in two variations, one with white gold markers and the other with baguette-diamond indices, the monochromatic new reference is the next step in this historic brand’s long history of chiming watches.  Initial thoughts Overall, this is an excellent update to a watch that was already very good. The original Royal Oak Supersonnerie is entirely in titanium, a lightweight metal with good acoustic qualities, and has very subtle aesthetics with a smoked grey dial. In contrast, the new all-black ceramic repeater feels more modern and in-line with what we have come to expect from Audemars Piguet, especially for the Royal Oak that has always been available in unconventional materials ranging from carbon composite to BMG. The inherent contradiction of an extremely expensive striking watch in a material not usually suited for transmitting sound is obvious. Yet it is also logical since it demonstrates the function of the brand’s proprietary Supersonnerie amplifying system that arguably transcends the case material. The titanium Supersonnie strikes loud and clear, but we have yet to hear the ceramic repeater strike in real life. It would certainly be interesting to have them both side-by-side to compare. While the brand already has several Royal Oak models with bracelets in ceramic, the new repeater is debuted only on a rubber s...

Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio showcases the TAG Heuer Carrera Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera As we celebrate Sep 5, 2023

Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio showcases the TAG Heuer Carrera

As we celebrate the opening of our Melbourne Watch Discovery Studio, what better time to help TAG Heuer celebrate the 60th anniversary of their iconic Carrera? Whether it’s Ryan Gosling’s charming mug speeding away in a vintage Porsche or TAG Heuer’s latest and greatest Carrera Glassbox and Skipper pieces, the Time+Tide retail team will help … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio showcases the TAG Heuer Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre gives Sep 4, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer

Five years on, the Polaris Chronograph gets a subtle update with new dials and movements Dials now feature 35 layers of hand-applied clear lacquer as well as a new light grey colour variant The new Calibre 761 boasts a running seconds feature in place of a 12-hour counter It’s easy to forget that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s modern … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A New Complication for Kurono Tokyo: Introducing the GMT 1, with the Miyota 9075 Movement Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Introducing Sep 4, 2023

A New Complication for Kurono Tokyo: Introducing the GMT 1, with the Miyota 9075 Movement

We probably should have seen this one coming: the new watch from Kurono Tokyo, the affordable offshoot of Hajime Asaoka’s eponymous and very high end independent brand, is a GMT equipped with the new Miyota 9075 movement. This is a new complication for Kurono, and it makes sense that the brand waited to launch a GMT until an affordable, Japanese made, caliber with local jumping hours became available. The new watch, dubbed simply the Kurono GMT 1, feels very much of a piece with other recent Kurono releases, simply extending Asaoka’s Art Deco infused design codes with some new functionality.  The conceit of this watch, according to Asaoka, is that a GMT is a complication highly desired by those traveling the world for business purposes, but watches that are equipped with this feature often find themselves in the sport category. While I think any serious watch lover can probably poke a few holes in that theory, it led Asaoka to create an apologetically not a traditional sports watch. Like all Kurono watches, this is an aesthetic object first and foremost, with design flourishes that exist simply to look good, rather than serve any specific functional purpose. The watch was also designed with conservative “business” fashion in mind, which from Asaoka’s perspective hasn’t changed a whole lot through the years, which lends the GMT 1 a traditional look that, while not vintage inspired, wouldn’t look out of place in the 1950s or 60s.  The dial features multiple s...

The Time+Tide Shop welcomes the understated elegance of Fears Time+Tide
Fears Sep 4, 2023

The Time+Tide Shop welcomes the understated elegance of Fears

Keeping the excitement of our new Melbourne Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio opening its doors to the public going, we’re delighted to introduce the latest newcomer to the Time+Tide Shop – British watchmakers Fears. Apart from actually making good watches, heritage and the story behind the company are often regarded as the strongest marketing tools for … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide Shop welcomes the understated elegance of Fears appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot Goes Retro with the PRX Digital SJX Watches
Tissot Goes Retro Sep 4, 2023

Tissot Goes Retro with the PRX Digital

Following the recent introduction of scaled-down automatic models, the Tissot PRX lineup takes a decidedly nostalgic turn with the PRX Digital. A slightly more refined take on the digital wristwatch, the new PRX captures the future as seen from the late 1980s with a streamlined LCD display and integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts  The PRX in all its flavours has proven popular thanks to a vintage-inspired design that caters perfectly to today’s taste for integrated bracelets. A retro-style quartz watch with an LCD screen, however, is unexpected but appealing in its thoughtful design that doesn’t try to do too much and is just right. For a mechanical-watch enthusiast, the PRX Digital is a diversion, but one that’s fun and affordable. On its face, the new PRX immediately evokes Casio’s lineup of digital watches on bracelets (namely the A171WEG-9AEF and A171WE-1AEF). The Japanese brand is clearly the market leader in affordable digital watches, but the PRX Digital is a step up in terms of branding and presentation, as opposed to Casio’s primarily utilitarian approach (though Casio’s upscale G-Shock models are another matter).  At US$375 for steel models and US$75 more for the gold-plated variants, the PRX Digital is pricier than its Casio counterparts. This premium is significant, but justified in part by the slightly more upscale feel of the PRX and of course the “Swiss made” provenance. However, it’s worth noting Casio trumps Tissot in terms of tech: t...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Nullarbor Terrain is inspired by Australian nature Time+Tide
Bausele Galvin Sep 4, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Nullarbor Terrain is inspired by Australian nature

For as many watch enthusiasts as we have here, Australia is lacking somewhat when it comes to home-grown brands. Of course we have Bausele, Galvin, and the not-so-subtly-named Melbourne Watch Company, though none of these designs have much to offer in terms of Australian-inspired design traits. Nullarbor, this week’s feature on Micro Mondays, aims to … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Nullarbor Terrain is inspired by Australian nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX Time+Tide
Breguet CEO Lionel Sep 3, 2023

Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX

Breguet is not like other watch brands. I say this not to simply point out that their products are distinct within the market, but rather to define their guiding philosophy, which ultimately informs their products, that also sets them apart. Sure, other watch brands have celebrated namesakes. Few, if any, are more celebrated than Abraham-Louis … ContinuedThe post Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Bethesda Premieres Starfield Live Action Trailer, The James Brand puts a Spin on a Modern Classic, an Under-The-Radar Leica, & More Worn & Wound
Sep 2, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Bethesda Premieres Starfield Live Action Trailer, The James Brand puts a Spin on a Modern Classic, an Under-The-Radar Leica, & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Bethesda Software Bethesda Premieres Starfield Live Action Trailer Via Bethesda Software We haven’t been shy about sharing our excitement for the highly-anticipated sci-fi, intergalactic RPG, Starfield. Earlier this year, we got a glimpse of Bethesda’s gem during the Xbox Showcase where they displayed the stunning gameplay visuals allowing the player to explore over 1,000 planets spread across 100 star systems. The vast amount of player-interaction is mind-boggling and the game already promises a dynamic gamer experience charged with planetary exploration and exhilarating spaceship dogfighting. There’s no shortage in details and every aspect of the game seems well-thought out. Especially the protagonist’s bespoke digital watch, dubbed the Chronomark, which we also covered here on WSG a couple years back – yes, we’ve been anxiously awaiting that long. With the launch date on the horizon, Bethesda Software has released a full-on live action trailer that encompasses everything we’ve been animated about. With breathtaking views, an inspiring orchestral s...

REVIEW: Getting Out & About With The Bremont Martin-Baker II WatchAdvice
Bremont Martin-Baker II Spring Sep 2, 2023

REVIEW: Getting Out & About With The Bremont Martin-Baker II

Spring is here and a great time to get out and about, so I took the Bremont Martin-Baker II on a couple of outdoor adventures to see how this robust watch holds up in our latest Hands On Review! What We Love Comfortable on the wristBright, easy to read dialOrange colour pops & is fun What We Don’t Crown is hard to pull out and setWears on the larger sideStrap can be a little finicky to put on Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 For those that aren’t aware off the Martin-Baker story, here’s a quick re-cap. Martin-Baker is a British aviation company responsible for supplying 70% of the world’s Air Forces with fighter ejection seat technology. They first approached Bremont to create the definitive aviation watch in 2007. More than simply putting a logo on an existing model, the watch had to withstand the same rigorous testing programme as the ejection seats themselves. Two years later, the Bremont Martin-Baker I (MBI) was born and limited solely for pilots who have ejected from an aircraft using a Martin-Baker seat – something that is not all that fun and puts a tremendous amount of stress on the body and the watch! The MBI with red case ring – only for pilots who’ve survived a live ejection The MBII and MBIII were then produced for the general public, designed to the same strict standards of the MBI, but available in a range of colours and variants, with people able to choose their own colour for the mid...

Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Phillips Calibre 135 Observatoire: 10 of the World’s Highest Precision, Competition-Winning Chronometer Movements Ready for the Wrist – Reprise Quill & Pad
Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Sep 2, 2023

Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Phillips Calibre 135 Observatoire: 10 of the World’s Highest Precision, Competition-Winning Chronometer Movements Ready for the Wrist – Reprise

After seven decades carefully stored away in the Zenith archives, ten of the original chronometry competition-winning movements find their way into a limited set of new watches thanks to Phillips, legendary independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, and Zenith's current management.

Celebrating 25 Years of the Sinn 356 Worn & Wound
Sinn 356 Sinn Sep 1, 2023

Celebrating 25 Years of the Sinn 356

Sinn is a cult brand with a unique quality (ok, several) – each of their watches also has a cult following. Are you a 556-head? A U1 kind-of-guy? No? How about a 103-fiend? Or, do you like the 70s vibe of the 144 the most? No matter what, there’s a Sinn line you can geek out over, as over the years each line has had several to dozens of variations and special editions created under it. But, there’s been one model that has felt somewhat ignored over the last several years. A line that is actually a bit of a favorite around at Worn & Wound and on my perennial “someday I’ll pick one up” list – the 356, Sinn’s most compact automatic chronograph. At 38.5 x 46mm for a long, long time, the 356 was one of the smallest automatic, or even mechanical, chronographs you could find for a reasonable price. Powered by the venerable Valjoux 7750, it blended a classic military pilot chronograph layout, one that pulled from Type 20s and the like, with a case that felt more like a field watch in its size and stripped-down appearance. The result was rugged, understated, and altogether charming. Check out our review from 2014. While variations of the 356 exist or have existed, including different crystal options, a stunning model with a salmon stamped-guilloche dial, and an elusive 12-hour UTC model, it’s not a line that has gotten much attention recently. This is why today’s announcement, celebrating the 25th anniversary of the 356 with three new models, is so exciting. To ...