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Hands On: Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain May 6, 2024

Hands On: Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II

One of the most esoteric offerings in Only Watch 2024 is the Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II. A follow-up to the first edition made in 2017, the Mosaïque II sticks to the same template that was originally inspired by a 19th century pocket watch with an inlaid case. It’s essentially an F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain with a slightly larger case inlaid with semi-precious stones and a hinged hunter back. This also makes F.P. Journe the only brand with two watches – the other is the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu – in the upcoming charity auction that takes place on May 10, 2024. Initial thoughts I liked the original version because it was recognisable as an F.P. Journe watch, yet entirely different. The Mosaïque II holds the same appeal, albeit at a far higher price given the increased demand for F.P. Journe in the years since. While in 2017 one could reasonably hope to buy the first Mosaïque for a high five-figure price – in fact it sold for a trifling CHF90,000 – the Mosaïque II will almost certainly end up in the high six- or even seven figures. Affordability aside, the Mosaïque II is a little more interesting than its predecessor because of the floral motif as well as the materials; the bloodstone inlays are a particularly striking backdrop for the other stones. The inlays are also more complex, with both the dial and back inlaid with stones in a mix of shapes and sizes. A Geneva museum Located along a small street in Geneva’s Old Town is the Barbier-Mueller Mus...

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces May 6, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition

Tudor recently revealed another competitively priced chronograph, this time designed for the Tudor Pro Cycling Team participating in the 2024 Giro d’Italia. The Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” is based on the chronograph made for the Alinghi sailing team and features the same carbon composite case. But the aesthetic is more understated, mostly black with touches of red. Initial thoughts Tudor’s recent support for the sport, including the sponsorship of its cycling team and recruitment of Swiss champion cyclist Fabian Cancellara as a brand ambassador, meant a cycling-centric watch was on the way. Although the Tudor cycling team members were issued a special-edition Black Bay Chrono last year, that watch was not available to the public. Now the team gets a new watch, which is also publicly available. In contrast to the equivalent Alinghi edition, the cycling chronograph has a more subdued, streamlined look that’s mostly monochromatic. The absence of overt cycling branding also adds to the appeal (in contrast, the Alinghi chronograph has the team branding on the inner flange). Save for the design changes, this is identical to the Alinghi edition. Unsurprisingly, the price is also similar at US$5,275. True to the brand’s ethos, the value proposition remains excellent considering the carbon composite case, high-spec movement, and overall quality. Last year’s Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” Cycling-ready The Cycling Edition is latest version...

First Look – The New Editions of the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Chronometer Celebration Monochrome
Carl F. Bucherer May 6, 2024

First Look – The New Editions of the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Chronometer Celebration

Carl F. Bucherer embraces almost every facet of watchmaking. Operating since 1888, Carl F. Bucherer started retailing luxury watches and jewellery in Lucerne before going international. In 1919, Bucherer spotted another niche and began manufacturing its own branded watches. With a rich archive of material, Carl F. Bucherer’s Heritage collection is home to reeditions of […]

The Best New Releases from April Worn & Wound
May 5, 2024

The Best New Releases from April

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week, we take a moment to catch our breath and celebrate all the amazing releases this past month. April alone, even outside of Watches & Wonders, has been a fantastic month in regards to new watches, and if this is any indication for what the rest of the year brings, we couldn’t be more excited. Without further ado, here is your weekly Roundup of some of our favorites.  Note: As we are hosting our Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, please be advised that all orders placed between April 30th (after 2 pm EST) to May 6th will ship starting May 7th. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing bel...

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda May 5, 2024

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues

It wouldn’t be an unfounded opinion to say that vintage reissues have become a bit stale after a decade of non-stop re-releases. Sure, vintage watches are fantastic, and new watches with vintage looks? Debatably even better. So when TAG Heuer released the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox at last year’s Watches and Wonders, it had a raucous … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vintage Watches: The Gruen Curvex Lieutenant Fratello
May 5, 2024

Vintage Watches: The Gruen Curvex Lieutenant

The Gruen Curvex certainly ranks as an important line of historical watches. These pieces used a variety of curved cases and curved movements. During their two decades of production, they were the pinnacle of style and rivaled more expensive brands. Gruen also has a deep tie to America, which brings something different to the story. […] Visit Vintage Watches: The Gruen Curvex Lieutenant to read the full article.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 4, 2024

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva

With the current popularity of independent watchmaking, the proportion of auction catalogues dedicated to the genre has grown. At the same time, the obvious slowdown in the market means prices have moderated. The result is a more diverse offering of independent watchmaking, and at lower prices than 18 months ago. The upcoming Phillips’ Geneva auction illustrates this. We take a look at some of the notable examples of independent watchmaking, including a Middle East edition from F.P. Journe, a glow-in-the-dark Voutilainen World Timer, and a trio of time-only watches that are all interesting yet entirely different from Philippe Dufour, Paul Gerber, and Charles Frodsham. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX takes place over two days on May 11 and 12 the Hotel President in downtown Geneva (a change from the traditional venue of La Reserve). The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. 62 – F.P. Journe lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante Eastern-Arabic numerals Notably good value in titanium, the lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante is less affordable in platinum but certainly more special, and much more substantial. While the titanium and gold versions are relatively conventional in terms of aesthetics, the platinum version is unusual with its purple dial that works surprisingly well. Like most F.P. Journe movements, the calibre inside is slim, a feat considering the additional height required for the rattrapante mechanism. The split-seconds is done in the traditional manner with...

Tudor Celebrates the Start of the Giro d’Italia with a Cycling Themed Pelagos FXD Chronograph Worn & Wound
Tudor Celebrates May 4, 2024

Tudor Celebrates the Start of the Giro d’Italia with a Cycling Themed Pelagos FXD Chronograph

Tudor has released a new watch in their growing Pelagos FXD collection with the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition.” The new watch borrows a formula from last year’s FXD releases tied to the Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but this time the focus is on Tudor’s own cycling team, which makes their debut in the Giro d’Italia this weekend. The Giro d’Italia is one of the most important cycling races on the competitive calendar, and this new chronograph has a handful of little touches that might make it particularly appealing to fans of the sport. It strikes many of the same chords, though, as last year’s Alinghi releases, and could point to a new and developing strategy within Tudor in how they work with athletic partners.  At a high level, this is essentially the same watch as the Alinghi FXD chronograph. They share the same 43mm black carbon composite case and run on the same MT5813 chronometer certified movement. The differences, of course, come in the details. The new Cycling Edition watch features a black dial with plenty of red accents, a nod to the colors of the Tudor cycling team. And rather than a rotating dive bezel like the one on last year’s chrono, here we get a fixed 60 minute bezel.  The most interesting change, and I think the one that will have hardcore cyclists most excited, is a tachymeter scale that has been designed with cycling specific intervals in mind. Virtually every other tachymeter scale on modern sports watches is designed to measure th...

New: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith Deployant
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith DEPLOYANT May 4, 2024

New: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith

The TAG Heuer Formula 1, first launched in 1986, was a popular and accessible sports watch that many from the '80s and '90s would recognize. TAG Heuer has recently introduced the Formula 1 Kith Limited Edition, which is a true-to-original reissue of the Series 1, co-created with the streetwear brand Kith. This special edition comes in ten vibrant versions, and it’s uniquely branded as “Kith Heuer,” signifying the partnership. The Kith logo takes the place of the traditional “TAG” in the watchmaker’s emblem, marking this collaboration.

Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate Fratello
Naoya Hida May 4, 2024

Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate

Japanese independent watchmaking has a particular charm, often showing a spare yet intricate way with dials and small-cased sensibility. With a few quietly released collaborative efforts, Hida-san’s main focus is on a small output of orders. Nevertheless, the 2024 releases from Naoya Hida & Co. show a more extroverted side to the brand coming through. […] Visit Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate to read the full article.

Long-Term Keepers: Three Watches I Can’t Bear to Sell Quill & Pad
May 4, 2024

Long-Term Keepers: Three Watches I Can’t Bear to Sell

If GaryG wants to buy a watch of any significance it requires that he sells one or more other pieces. The bad news is that all of the watches he doesn't really love were sold off a long time ago! As a result, the discipline of asking "What watch in his current collection do I love less than this potential new purchase?" has become tougher and tougher. Here he shares three watches that he feels are long term-keepers and why.

Hands-On With The CIGA Design Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition Fratello
May 3, 2024

Hands-On With The CIGA Design Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition

A tourbillon is less relevant now than ever. What was once advantageous in a pocket watch became less so in a wristwatch, which is naturally subject to a broader range of motion. With cheaper quartz modules outperforming all but the most accurate mechanical movements, a tourbillon remains a display of watchmaking ability and intricacy. A […] Visit Hands-On With The CIGA Design Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition to read the full article.

Citizen Eco-Drive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen May 3, 2024

Citizen Eco-Drive Guide

The history of the watch industry is rife with groundbreaking technological developments that came about through necessity. Dive watches’ unidirectional rotating bezels were developed to save the lives of scuba divers by ensuring they wouldn’t misread their time underwater and inadvertently run out of oxygen. Luminous paint on watch dials was invented so wearers could read the time in the dark or underwater. Antimagnetic innovations in watch movements came about as everyday life in the 20th century exposed us to more and more electromagnetic fields that affected our watches’ efficient running. One of the more recent examples is Citizen’s now-famous and still-exclusive Eco-Drive movement - which emerged as a direct result of the worldwide energy crisis that galvanized environmentalists in the 1970s. Citizen pocket watch from 1924 Citizen, like all watch companies that trace their history back to the early 20th Century, was a traditional watchmaker long before it became an innovator in high-tech, electronic timekeeping - founded in 1918 in Japan, as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute. The name “Citizen” first appeared on one of the company’s pocket watches in 1924, an indication that Shokosha, which officially became Citizen Watch Company in 1930, would be devoted to making timepieces that were accessible to “all citizens” of Japan, and eventually, of the world. By the 1970s - with several milestones under its belt, including the first calendar wat...

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Goes Pink in Miami, with the New Streamliner x Alpine Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Goes Pink May 3, 2024

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Goes Pink in Miami, with the New Streamliner x Alpine

A fortnight ago, we covered the release of Moser’s Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton to celebrate its official timekeeping partnership with Alpine Motorsports. First appearing with a shade of blue that marks the Moser and Alpine Motorsports partnership, the next model in the pit box flies the pink livery of the BWT Alpine F1 Team competing […]

Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” for Miami GP SJX Watches
Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic May 3, 2024

Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” for Miami GP

Days before the Miami Grand Prix, Tudor announced a pair of special watches specifically for the event: the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” issued to Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB). With a rainbow-hued dial that draws inspiration from the credit card of the team’s main sponsor, the two watches match the VCARB cars that have been dressed in a rainbow livery only for the Miami GP. They follow the quiet unveil in February of the Black Bay Ceramic with a blue dial made for the VCARB team at large.  The Chameleon on the wrist of Daniel Ricciardo. Image – Visa Cash App RB Initial thoughts While the first VCARB edition was discreetly launched, this new pair was officially announced by Tudor. Unlike the earlier edition though, these are one-off creations intended for the drivers to wear during the Miami GP. While Tudor has produced numerous collaborative special editions over the years, this stands out for its unusually colourful dial that stands in contrast to the no-fuss aesthetic Tudor often employs. With a dial reminiscent of tie-dye shirts of the 1960s, the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” sports an unorthodox aesthetic for a “tool” watch. Although the look is decidedly atypical for the brand, it’s striking and surprisingly appealing, though it will certainly be polarising. The Black Bay “Chameleon”, however, is not available to the public, making the appeal a moot point. The Miami GP-specific livery of the V...

Up Close: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe watches made May 3, 2024

Up Close: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique “Only Watch”

The two most important examples of independent watchmaking in Only Watch 2024 are arguably the stealthy F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique, each a significant creation of a leading watchmaker of his generation (and interesting enough, both are sports watches). Inspired by mid-20th century explorer’s watches that were magnetism-resistant, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is an elegant but robust watch with a stainless steel case and an entirely new calibre equipped with an indirectly-driven centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. In its Only Watch form, the RRCA is a unique watch but also a prototype for a new line of elegant sports watches. NB: The watch pictured is a work in progress that is not entirely finished so the dial is a prototype and the movement is not perfectly clean. It will be delivered in a perfect state to the eventual owner. Initial thoughts Many of the RRCA’s details bring to mind mid-20th century “sports” watches. Not the sports watches we know of today, but rather the water-resistant Patek Philippe watches made in the 1940s and 1950s for gentlemen sportsmen and adventurers. This reflects with Rexhep Rexhepi’s respect for traditional Geneva watchmaking, which is also expressed in the RRCC but in a different manner. The RRCA subtly marks a new direction for Rexhep Rexhepi’s aesthetics. It’s clearly a thoughtful evolution of the RRCC. While the RRCC is a dress watch, ...

Revisiting The Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition I May 2, 2024

Revisiting The Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition

I still can’t usually remember how to use a compass bezel, but the prospect of a tougher, even more versatile Hamilton Khaki is tempting. By offering two of the subjectively best-sized case designs, the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition covers most bases. We covered this release late last year, but it slipped under my radar, and […] Visit Revisiting The Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition to read the full article.

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Consumerism Worn & Wound
Bulova Precision I picked up May 2, 2024

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Consumerism

Just before the new year, I thought I had a brilliant and completely unique article idea (spoiler alert: I didn’t).  I’ve long grappled with the blurred lines between consumerism and watch enthusiasm. Why not write a New Year’s resolution article about purchasing fewer watches in 2024, I thought? Before I could pitch my idea, Zach Kazan had a pitch of his own: a group editorial on the topic of watch related New Year’s resolutions. So, I condensed my ramblings to a couple paragraphs about using a purchasing hiatus to end the cycle of fueling my enthusiasm with a steady stream of new purchases. I sent in my contribution, popped the Champagne, and gave myself a pat on the back for being so brave and original. Imagine my surprise when nearly every resolution in the group editorial focused on consolidating or cutting back on purchases.  Reading back over the editorial now, I can’t help but feel a bit cliche. Griffin noted how he’d made a resolution similar to mine last year, but lasted only until March- a pace I recently matched with a Bulova Precision I picked up for 50 bucks. Sure $50 is about as cheap as a watch can be, but still disqualified me from any hopes of resolution success. In fact, my relatively small collection looks nothing like it did the day I wrote that resolution. In just two short months I: sold a watch, bought a watch, built a watch, and traded one watch for another. My hopes of collecting deliberately in 2024 are off to a rocky start. The ent...

The Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe May 2, 2024

The Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches

Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has long been the gold standard of high watchmaking, pioneering complications and design elements that are now found widely throughout the watch industry - from the first keyless winding system in 1845 to the first annual calendar wristwatch in 1996, with many other innovations and historic timepieces in between. Throughout the maison’s long and prestigious history, watches from Patek Philippe have proven to be among the most coveted and valuable on the watch-auction circuit, making up nine of the 10 most expensive watches ever sold and 14 of the top 20. What are these record-breaking Patek Philippe timepieces, what makes them so special, and exactly how much money did they fetch when the hammer came down? Below, we count down the top 10, ending with the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. Patek Philippe Gold Chronograph Ref. 1527 ($5.709 million, 2010, Christie’s) Sold at Christie’s in 2010 and still holding its spot in the top 10 most expensive Patek Philippe watches, this exceedingly rare perpetual calendar chronograph with a yellow-gold tonneau case more than doubled its pre-auction estimate. Its matte silver dial features applied Arabic numerals, a tachymeter scale, and three subdials for chronograph minutes, running seconds, date, and moon-phases. Its movement is stamped with the prestigious Geneva Seal, attesting to its elite level of finishing as well as its chronometric performance. 9. Patek Philippe Titaniu...