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Time+Tide
China can't be ignored when it comes to horological significance, as these top Chinese watch brands prove with their artisanal quality.The post These 12 brands prove Chinese watchmaking shouldn’t be overlooked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I have a feeling that if you asked most watch enthusiasts to tell you their thoughts about Rado, they’d start with the Captain Cook. The brand’s diver has been revived in recent years and become an enthusiast favorite, appearing in both traditional vintage inspired designs as well as more forward thinking and tech oriented variants. I’ve handled my share of Captain Cooks and while I think it’s a perfectly fine dive watch, there’s something a little generic about it and it’s never quite grabbed my interest. It seems positioned as a calling card product for Rado, but I find myself wondering if it’s really the watch that we should most closely identify with the brand. Because the truth is, when it comes to Rado, they are far more adventurous than the Captain Cook would lead you to believe. And, for that matter, they’re more adventurous than we should have any right to expect given their fairly competitive price points and their place within a big luxury watch group, not typically the home of risk taking when it comes to watchmaking. Beginning with the DiaStar in the 1960s (which featured a case made from an ultra hard alloy that was among the first watches marketed as “unscratchable”) and on into the 1980s when the brand really began hitting their stride with ceramic, Rado has carved out a niche for itself as a brand willing to experiment with both raw materials and the form and function of a watch. There are many examples of this throughout the brand...
Monochrome
Hermès has a knack for interpreting time in a unique, highly poetical manner. Who can forget the wonderful Arceau Temps Suspendu, with its complication allowing you to suspend time on demand? Just ahead of Watches & Wonders 2025, Hermès releases new versions of two Arceau models: the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune, which tracks the […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Havid Nagan is a small independent watch brand based out of Los Angeles that was founded by Aren Bazerkanian a few short years ago. Just released is the new Classic One watch, its third release after the debut HN00 from 2022 and the sophomore release of the HN01 Lucine Moonphase in 2023. Unlike some other independent brand founders, Bazerkanian is not a watchmaker or artisan by trade but rather he is a passionate enthusiast who understands that a watch is the sum of its parts. This parallels the Jean-Claude Biver model, which focuses on the “big picture,” and the result has been one of the more understated yet inarguably impressive runs of a new brand in the post-Covid landscape. The team of industry pros and talent assembled by Bazerkanian for the Classic One includes Guillaume Tetu (previously product manager at TAG Heuer, co-founder of Hautlence, and Director of Product Development at Ralph Lauren Watches & Jewelry) and Aurélien Theurillat of GLS2F, which specializes in design, sourcing, and supply chains. The lineup also includes Romeo Granito of Cadranor, which has previously done the dial finishes for Havid Nagan. Finally, the team at Jean-Rousseau will be making the straps. The Classic One goes in a different direction from the HN00 and HN01 with a more traditional case design that is inspired by pieces like the Parmigiani Tonic and the Daniel Roth-era Breguet Classique. Measuring 38mm wide and 9mm thick with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm, the Classic One ca...
Fratello
Nomos released the original Club Campus in 2017. The watches are inspired by the age-old tradition of purchasing or receiving a mechanical watch to symbolize a significant event or achievement. The German brand even offers to engrave the bare case back as part of the sale. Today, two new colorways, Starlight and Night Sky, join […] Visit To The Heavens With The New Nomos Club Campus Starlight And Night Sky to read the full article.
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Quill & Pad
After a week on the wrist, Chris Malburg had some issues with Grand Seiko’s Blue Snowflake Reference SBGA407. Even so, he pulled the trigger. Here Chris explains how he fixed those issues and why this watch just might deserve a place in your collection too.
Time+Tide
Counter-intuitively, Yema outsourcing its signature dive watch to the Swiss actually helps keep costs down so they can invest in French manufacturing.The post How the Yema Superman Swiss Edition will make Yema more French appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While the original Seamaster 300M from 2019 was a no-frills, James Bond-inspired watch, the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold and Burgundy is a refined evolution of the design that employs Omega’s proprietary gold alloy. Used by Omega as well as its sister company Blancpain, Bronze Gold is an alloy of bronze, palladium, silver, and 37.5% gold - making it a 9k gold alloy - that has enhanced corrosion resistance while having the warm hue of bronze but without the accentuated patina that accompanies conventional versions of the metal. Aside from the Bronze Gold case and burgundy bezel, the design remains virtually unchanged, retaining the signature “twisted” lugs of the Seamaster. Initial thoughts Omega has introduced several variants of the model since the Seamaster 300M 007 Edition, among them the recent “No-Date”. This time-only design, which omits the date window, has enjoyed commercial success, highlighting the appeal of a cleaner dial, especially on a watch with some vintage flavour. In this context, the Seamaster 300M Bronze Gold is a natural evolution of the collection, bringing it upmarket as is the norm for a successful model. The upgrade, however, comes at a price. At US$13,900 on a rubber strap, the Bronze Gold edition is more than twice the price of the steel model. And the version on a matching Bronze Gold mesh bracelet costs a whopping US$27,900. Granted, the new Seamaster 300M is gold, but not really, since it’s a 9k alloy, which is far below th...
Monochrome
Watch brands rarely take the time to explain their strategic shifts to the public, making Yema‘s transparency all the more commendable. In unveiling its new 2025 references, the French watchmaker provided insight into a significant transition: introducing the Superman Swiss Editions. These timepieces, which represent the brand’s entry to the Superman collection, are now powered […]
Hodinkee
The Head of Watches at Material Good will lecture on the current watch market and what the future of watch collecting may look like.
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Teddy Baldassarre
Choosing a favorite Grand Seiko was bound to be one of the more difficult prompts we could give to the Teddy editorial team. One of the most beloved watch brands out there, Grand Seiko has been around since 1960 but only began distributing internationally in 2010 and didn’t become a truly independent brand until 2017. Old-timers will recall the days when it was truly difficult to get your hands on what is now the Japanese luxury watch giant. Ironically the SBGA211, aka the "Snowflake," didn’t make the list here, which actually says a lot about the sheer volume of excellent pieces Grand Seiko has released over the years. So let us get to our editors’ picks for their favorite Grand Seiko of all time and, as usual, make sure to share your own pick. Oh, and for the first time since we started doing these editors' picks, two team members individually landed on the same watch... Mark Bernardo: Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Unlike many other choices for these Editor’s Picks lists, my favorite Grand Seiko timepiece was relatively easy to identify - because it is the watch with the most intriguing backstory as well as the type of pop-cultural, collaborative piece that the luxury brand is unlikely to ever make again. The Grand Seiko Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition, released in 2019, commemorated a pair of seemingly unrelated anniversaries that occurred that year: 65 years since the release of the original, iconic Godzilla movie by Toho Ltd. in 1954, a...
Monochrome
Presented in 2023, the Bovet Virtuoso XI is a masterpiece of high watchmaking, combining exquisite skeletonization, intricate hand-engraving, and meticulous hand-finishing… without mentioning an in-house movement with flying tourbillon and solid 10-day power reserve. Following the release of the original white gold versions, this typically Bovet watch is now available in 18k red gold, with […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Omega has been on a tear with what I would call a series of the “worst-kept secrets in watches.” This was kicked off by the white Omega Speedmaster, furthered by the black aluminum Seamaster Diver 300m, and then punctuated by a watch “surprise” launched this morning: a new, full-bronze-gold Omega Seamaster Diver 300m. All of these watches have one thing in common: They were each teased (read, spoiled) by former James Bond actor and Omega ambassador Daniel Craig as he wore them out in the world ahead of launch. I, for one, am not too perturbed by this sequence of events. I tend to think that there is no such thing as a spoiled surprise. As a friend of mine once told me, you don’t really spoil a surprise; you merely surprise someone earlier. So let’s examine a new watch that feels like it’s been in our lives for months now – because it has. This one takes its design from from the No Time To Die Seamaster Diver 300m both in look and material. We have the mesh bracelet working against the well known SMP300 case design. Additionally, we have an aluminum bezel insert in a burgundy color which pairs with what appears to be a matte textured black dial, which Omega calls sandblasted. This is an effect I want to see in person. The NTTD dial was a more brownish hue and almost smooth, and the recent black-dial version brought the updated small wave pattern. So this is effectively a new dial texture for the format. Finishing off the dial is text done in a brown colorat...
Fratello
Since 2019, BA111OD has offered edgy, affordable Swiss timepieces. The brand from Neuchatel offers a tourbillon, manufacture complications, and several avant-garde mechanical watches. The models even have chapter names, and today’s piece, the Chapter 7, is the first to receive a chronometer certification. With rising prices from many traditional “high street” brands, smaller independent watch […] Visit Introducing: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Certified Chronometer to read the full article.
Fratello
If you like the odd thematic special edition, Hublot is the brand to follow. Today, we get an interesting new watch from the Nyon-based outfit. This is the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne. You quite literally get a piece of Lucerne if you purchase this watch, so if the Swiss city carries meaning to […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
Andrew gets hands-on with Maurice de Mauriac's third tennis-inspired watch with Racquet Magazine.The post The Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster III offers a grass court dial inspired by Wimbledon (live unboxing) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...
Monochrome
If you’re a fan of indie watchmaker Laurent Ferrier, you’re likely familiar with the Traveller Globe Night Blue – a UK-only model first introduced in the Galet Traveller series back in 2016. This year, as the brand celebrates its 15th anniversary, it revisits its beloved dual-time watch with a fresh update, now featuring a miniature […]
Worn & Wound
Among higher end Swiss watch brands, few have experienced a greater turnaround, at least on the surface, over the past several years than Parmigiani Fleurier. Parmigiani has always been a brand that knowledgable collectors and enthusiasts have praised and found a great deal of value in, but the brand itself didn’t always seem healthy. Before Guido Terreni took over in 2021, it would have been quite common to find heavily discounted Parmigianis on the gray market – a common symptom of overproducing too many references and not being able to find your core customer. Under Terreni, the brand’s output has been streamlined and everything just seems more thought through. And while I don’t have insight into sales statistics, you certainly don’t see the brand’s current catalog selling for closeout prices on the discount sites, a sign that they’ve got production under control, at the very least. One of the brand’s biggest gambits has been the exploring the integrated bracelet sports watch market with the Tonda PF collection. Launched at a time when every luxury brand was throwing their hat in the ring in this particular category, Parmigiani has sought to differentiate itself from competitors in the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch world by leaning into the luxury angle, and perhaps a little away from the sport. Inspired by a “sartorial approach” to watch design, the Tonda PF is all about feel, texture, and proportions in a manner similar to a bespoke sui...
Fratello
Sternglas continues to evolve its watch lineup rapidly. Today’s new Tachymeter 2.0 is a great example because it replaces the original model after a short three-year production run. We like it when a company is not content to rest with its existing designs. The question, as always, is whether the newest watch is an improvement. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Sternglas Tachymeter 2.0 to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
A few months back at a watch collector’s get together, I was asked by a friend how we at Worn & Wound decide what to write about when it comes to new releases. It’s a good question. Obviously, we can’t cover everything, so decisions have to be made somewhere about what we devote time and energy to, and what we ultimately think is less essential. Obviously, there are a number of brands that are almost always going to be somewhat newsworthy and of interest to our readers, and they tend to be prioritized. There are also watches that are of a more personal interest to some of us, maybe less commercial, but still noteworthy in some respect. A category, though, that almost always makes it through, is when a watch comes around that makes me want to check off the “unique” button in our content management system. Not a diver, not a dress watch, not sport or tactical. A watch that can only or primarily be described as “unique” is almost always going to get a pass. Bell & Ross has a knack for these, and the latest is the BR-03 Astro, a 999 piece limited edition inspired by nothing less than outer space, and our own solar system. Bruno Belamich, the brand’s co-founder and creative director, says he was inspired specifically by the view of the earth from the observation dome, the Cupola, of the International Space Station. The dial is blue aventurine (obviously evoking a star filled sky) with the brilliant blue, spherical representation of earth at its center. An engr...
SJX Watches
During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones. A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires. The Tambour Ceramic Initial thoughts I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals. The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers. The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30 However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 f...
Time+Tide
UniDesign launches a softer, motorsport-inspired take on the sports watch.The post The UniDesign Autoclassic combines 1970s funk with automotive cues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Getting your ocean-capable watches wet has been a mantra I’ve taken to countless reviews. But long have I postponed taking my dive watch, the blue Tudor Black Bay 58, scuba diving. The reasons are many. Frankly, though, none of them are good enough to justify how someone (a passionate ocean enthusiast, at that) who lives […] Visit Getting PADI Diving Certified With My Tudor Black Bay 58 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
This modern take on a mystery watch captures a view of the Earth from space on its blue aventurine dial.The post The Bell & Ross BR 03 Astro captures the cosmos with another unconventional dial layout appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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