Revolution
Introducing the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Pièce Unique
On the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the iconic American 1921, Vacheron Constantin faithfully recreates the watch as if in 1921
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In-Depth: Recreating the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred Years Later
As one of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive timepieces marks its 100th anniversary, the watchmaker rolled out a handful of jubilee models during Watches & Wonders 2021 for the occasion, most notably the extremely good looking American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine. But Vacheron Constantin had something else up its sleeve for the 1921’s century – something really special – a near-exact recreation of the vintage original from 1921. Christened the American 1921 Pièce Unique, the watch is a one-off created as a joint project by the brand’s Restoration Workshop and Heritage Department, overseen by Style & Heritage Director Christian Selmoni, whose long tenure at Vacheron Constantin means he is practically the brand’s institutional memory. The watch is more than just a visual replica – an identical case and movement is a given – but even the most minor of details have been reproduced faithfully, right down to the gold alloy of the case and period-correct vintage parts from its archives. Initial thoughts While the modern-day American 1921 is a fan-favourite, it necessarily omits some of the finer details of the vintage original, in order to cater to current tastes as well as production methods. As such, even the most-delicious Collection Excellence Platine edition can be critiqued, for the mismatch in hand colours or the seemingly misaligned seconds register. In contrast, the recreation is satisfyingly spot on, which give it an attractive, bona fi...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Heitis Chronograph ST19 V2: Well Built, But Not Inspired
Rather than be your run-of-the-mill fashion chrono, the new Heitis is set to be your “go anywhere, do anything” watch with a touch of class. Now, usually if you try to jam to many characters into one movie, you end up with a jumbled mess that rarely achieves anything it sets out to do. Will a watch be the same?
Deployant
Review: The New Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 “Jumping-Hour”
The L.U.C collection, as we know it today, is the fruit of Manufacture Chopard’s longstanding endeavors in fine watchmaking. Its existence began in 1996 with the introduction of the L.U.C 1860, a time-and-date-only watch that many deemed to be a magnum opus of classical watch design. The seminal timepiece was driven by the Geneva SealRead More
Quill & Pad
Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity Réserve De Marche: A Passion For Tradition
The new Eccentricity Réserve de Marche is Cyril Brivet-Naudot's second watch following his 2018 debut piece, the simply named Eccentricity. It builds on that foundation by adding complexity with the addition of a power reserve mechanism taking up real estate on both the front and rear of the watch. And it is simply, and traditionally, stunning as Joshua Munchow reports.
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Is the Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR “Rootbeer” the best two-tone watch on the market today?
Time+Tide
From Neymar to Lebron – 4 powerhouse athletes spotted wearing the AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther
The AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther took the watch world by storm, and some very well known athletes have been spotted wearing it.The post From Neymar to Lebron – 4 powerhouse athletes spotted wearing the AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The 10 Best Skeleton Watches You Can Buy Right Now (That Don’t Suck!)
I know I’m not the only one who looked at a skeleton watch in the early days because I thought they were cool. But honestly what actually attracted me to skeletonized dials back in the day? Are they actually cool or are they maybe misunderstood?
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution
Bold proclamation from the outset. If this watch had been launched during Watches & Wonders this year it would have been my pick of the fair. But let’s take a step back. In 2018, our friends at Revolution made a stellar limited-edition collaboration with Chopard L.U.C: the L.U.C 1860 x The Rake x Revolution. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highlights: The Interesting and Perhaps Overlooked at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
With the Geneva watch auctions recently concluded, the action moves to Hong Kong where Phillips is presenting a large, 312-lot catalogue over two days and three sessions. Headlined by a pair of Patek Philippe ref. 2499s with certificates – first and third series specifically – the Phillips sale encompasses several lots that will delight collectors looking for intriguing timepieces that usually go under the radar – most of which are also value buys. They include a seemingly ordinary Panerai with a brilliant Minerva movement, a round Audemars Piguet minute repeater that’s not a Code 11.59, and the electric Cartier Tank Folle that is as left-field as they come. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place on June 5 (lots 801-852) and June 6 over two sessions (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue, along with registration for the auction, is available online. Lot 874 – Panerai Radiomir PAM 322 “Minerva” With little to distinguish it, the PAM 322 looks like any other Radiomir at a glance. Released in 2008 in a limited edition of 150 pieces, the PAM 322 is quintessential Panerai in style: a 47 mm titanium case, tobacco dial, and gilt hands. But turn it over and it is instantly recognisable as special. The PAM 322 is powered by the cal. OPXXVII, which is actually based on the Minerva cal. 16-15/16-17, one of the calibres destined for Montblanc’s top-of-the-line watches, then known as the Villeret 1858 collection (and now found in various 1858 and Heritage mode...
Time+Tide
What were the best (non-Nautilus) Patek Philippe releases of 2021? We asked Patek expert John Reardon
Patek Philippe have been in the headlines a lot already this year. Firstly for the announcement that the Nautilus ref. 5711 was to be discontinued, and again when the collector community was shocked at proposed changes to the Archival Extracts program. All this before they even released a new watch. When they did release their … ContinuedThe post What were the best (non-Nautilus) Patek Philippe releases of 2021? We asked Patek expert John Reardon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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My Watch Story: My Great Grandfather's Ulysse Nardin Pocketwatch by Justin Gallen
Revolution
Introducing the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3817
Zenith revives a watch that holds three of its most iconic creations in one chalice, in the form of the Chronomaster Revival A3817
Revolution
The Rise and Rise of Microbrands
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SJX Watches
A Look Inside Rolex World Service and the Restoration Atelier
Synonymous with durability and consistency, Rolex is most famous for the water-resistant Oyster watch case. But as important are its movements engineered to optimise timekeeping and functionality, exemplified by innovations like Chronergy and LIGA chronograph wheels. At the same time, Rolex watches are built for longevity, with the brand guaranteeing the availability of parts and labour for every model for at least 35 years after its discontinuation. Crucial in ensuring that the parts and labour are applied correctly is Rolex World Service, the brand’s after-sales division. The typically secretive Swiss watchmaking giant recently peeled back the covers on Rolex World Service, allowing a peek into its processes with information and a series of photos. Rolex World Service Rolex World Service encompasses the brand’s global after-sales service network, which is primarily made up of Rolex subsidiaries but occasionally run by third-party distributors in certain markets. All service centres are meant to offer a uniformly standard of service, regardless of ownership. A variety of servicing options are on offer at Rolex – all relatively affordable – with the most common being the full service detailed below. As the name implies, a full service is comprehensive, including polishing and replacements of parts. It is catered for the average consumer who wants a watch looking fresh and new, rather than the enthusiast or collector who prefers originality. A full service start...
Time+Tide
Three men apprehended for robbery of a Richard Mille RM 11-03 in Beverly Hills
Back in March, we covered the story of a horrific watch theft in Beverly Hills California where a Richard Mille robbery occurred leaving an undisclosed women wounded by a firearm. Shay Belhassen was targeted for his RM-11-03 Flyback Chronograph in rose gold, a watch worth $500,000, while dining with a female companion at celebrity hotspot … ContinuedThe post Three men apprehended for robbery of a Richard Mille RM 11-03 in Beverly Hills appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph
Launched just last year, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is the flagship model in Audemars Piguet’s oft-discussed line of run watches. Executed well in almost every way, the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph underscores the potential of the family. But more importantly, the watch encapsulates AP’s strengths. Despite being known largely for the Royal Oak, and widely criticised for the Code 11.59 and then the Royal Oak Concept Black Panther, AP remains AP. The brand is a long-established, top-tier watchmaker that knows how to make fine watches. That is amply evident in the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Code 11.59 was widely panned online at launch, though the virtual mob’s rage was overdone, taking the weakness of specific models and generalising it across the entire line. The dials on the three-hander and chronograph were bland, but the other models were more appealing. But the Code is in fact an impressive collection in terms of finish and construction – though some dials still can be improved – especially the octagon-within-a-circle case that’s difficult to appreciate in photos. But the Code 11.59 has gained traction since, especially with the subsequent facelifts that combined smoked, lacquered dials and two-tone cases that immediately made the watch more attractive. At the same time, highly complicated models have joined the line up, including the open-worked tourbillon and Grande Sonnerie, which add to...
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Deployant
Rectangular watches: the case for 6 of the best, now updated
Our update to 6 recommendations for a watch in a rectangular case, now populated with selections which have been introduced since the last few years.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Bausele OceanMoon IV is an Australian-made diver built for the surf and the sand
There are only a few watch brands that call Australia home, but one of them is Bausele in Sydney whose timepieces take some inspiration from the land they were born in. The Bausele OceanMoon IV is the latest release in the collection of dive watches that have been in the brand’s catalogue for more than … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Bausele OceanMoon IV is an Australian-made diver built for the surf and the sand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The 2021 IWC Big Pilot in 43mm IW329301
The watch is priced at CHF8,900 compared to the 46mm at CHF13,900. It has a base movement versus the 52110 Calibre which has an additional 100 hours in power reserve. The watch is positioned as a more wearable option to the larger Big Pilot that also comes with a more affordable price tag.
Time+Tide
Making a buzz: Ming x Massena Lab collaborate to create honeycomb hotness
Whenever Ming introduces a new watch, the brand’s followers immediately mark their calendars and ensure they set aside time to race to the checkout for one of these highly coveted watches. The designs of this independent watch brand are absolutely distinctive, with every component meticulously crafted to reflect the design language of Ming Thein. Ming … ContinuedThe post Making a buzz: Ming x Massena Lab collaborate to create honeycomb hotness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Next Big Thing - De Bethune
Arguably the most underrated among the independent brands, De Bethune’s watches with their otherworldly aesthetic and technical innovation will appeal to a watch community searching for an authentic vision of horology.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
H. Moser & Cie. Jumps the Shark with “the Fonz” Minute Repeater
Unveiled yesterday, controversial watch brand H. Moser & Cie. has taken cheeky clichés to the next level with their latest release, a tribute to ABC’s beloved sitcom Happy Days.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton
Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2021, Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton made its debut alongside highly complicated watches from mainstream watchmakers – but it holds its own in mechanical complexity and metiers d’art decoration against the best of them. Initial thoughts Louis Vuitton’s mechanical watches are impressive, and often don’t get enough respect from watch enthusiasts because of the often ostentatious design. But I respect the quality of concept and execution, and like several of the watches (and own one of them). The flagship complication for 2021 is typical Louis Vuitton in terms of design, but creative in its mechanics and polished in its artisanal decoration. The Carpe Diem is essentially a modern day vanitas – a work of art symbolising the transience of material goods and fragility of life. At the same time, it encapsulates many of the favoured themes in modern-day watchmaking – complex movements, artisanal decoration, and over-the-top style. Although the Carpe Diem is massive and extreme, the craftsmanship evident on the dial is delicate and refined. The engraving on the skull is fine, and even more intricate on the snake, which is enamelled in exceptional detail. All of the metiers d’art on the dial is as good as that on watches from mainstream watchmakers. At the same time, the movement is technically competent and properly finished, given its La Fabrique du Temps provenance. But the watch is a lot of watch, in terms of size an...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Rose Gold brings warmth to a winning design
I still remember the morning that the Zenith brand manager for Australia stepped into the T+T HQ, excited to show us what he’d brought with him on that summer day. The watch roll unfurled and we all saw it for the first time – the Zenith Chronomaster – a watch that we all knew would … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Rose Gold brings warmth to a winning design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military
Though taking the form of its signature aviation-instrument watch, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military is the latest in a lineage of dive watches that started in 1997. Pilot’s watches are its bread and butter, but Bell & Ross (B&R;) has been making high-spec dive watches almost since its founding in 1992. Five years later it launched the Hydromax, which was created in collaboration with Sinn. Featuring a case filled with incompressible synthetic oil, the Hydromax boasted a staggering water-resistance rating of 11,100 m. Two decades later, B&R; launched the BR 03-92 Diver, which transformed the aviation-instrument case into a diving tool with a 300 m depth rating. First unveiled in steel, and subsequently also in either bronze or ceramic, the newest iteration of the BR 03-92 Diver has a functional olive-green dial that evokes the military inspiration behind many of the brand’s watches. Initial thoughts On the surface, the BR 03-92 Diver Military is seemingly a mere facelift, a new dial for the BR 03-92 Diver Black of 2019. Only the olive-green dial is new – but it makes a difference. While green seems to be the colour du jour for 2021, the olive-drab dial colour underscores the B&R; spirit perfectly. The brand often looks to the military for inspiration – and has made watches for both police and military units in France – while being inclined towards a vintage style, particularly in its round watches. Best described as a retro-military colour that evokes unif...
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MICRO MONDAYS: The Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic offers vintage style tested in Antarctic blizzards
Last week, you might have spotted the evocative Charlie Paris logo depicting a stork in flight during our story on the new French Wave of microbrands. Today, we turn to the brand’s heavyweight offering: the Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic diver’s watch. Available for pré-commande (come on, let’s do it the French way), it’s a fresh … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic offers vintage style tested in Antarctic blizzards appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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