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Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: We get that this LVMH Watch Week there is a ton of ground to cover, with four brands all releasing a range of novelties to kick off the year. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. … ContinuedThe post LVMH WATCH WEEK: Hublot 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The stars and navigation have always been linked. As a year progresses, certain constellations command the night sky, aiding those at sea with navigation. On a nightly basis, the position of the Big Dipper constellation can even help a navigator estimate the time of night. It’s this relationship, along with a Greek myth, that inspired … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Gravithin delivers a stellar performance with the ArgoMatic Series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A distinctive gentleman whose trademark outfit always called for multiple scarves looped around his neck, Giovanni Zavota was one of the old-school Italian dealers who shaped vintage watch collecting of the late 20th century, having sold some of the most important wristwatches – amongst them a steel ref. 1518 and the platinum ref. 2499. He passed away on 15 January, aged 69. I would see him each time I went to Geneva for the auctions and he was clearly an original character. He was most comfortable conversing in Italian, which I speak none of, so we only spoke briefly a few times. But one occasion that stands out in my memory is when I encountered him in Italy and he was wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a cloisonné dial – and a matching bracelet – on one wrist, and on the other he had on a crisp and enormous Longines Lindbergh. Two watches of different style and disparate value, yet each interesting and important in its own way – a sure sign the man had good taste and understood historical significance. Giovanni Zavota. Photo – Auro Montanari A testament to his place in the world of vintage watches – specifically the pre-internet world – was the turnout at his funeral, which took place on January 18 in Collecchio, a small town just south of Parma where he had spent his summers as a boy. Almost a hundred people turned up, including family and old friends, but also a large contingent that exemplified the Italian-centric, late-20th century world of vinta...
SJX Watches
Having celebrated the 90th anniversary of the Reverso last year with several limited editions – including the mega-complicated Quadriptyque with four faces – Jaeger-LeCoultre is revisiting its iconic swivelling wristwatch with a retrospective in Singapore. Open to the public from January 23, the event takes place in the brand’s boutique in the Marina Bay Sands casino and shopping complex. The store has been transformed into a miniature museum that includes exhibits of historical watches and material, and also interactive sessions where visitors can try their hands at perlage, the technique of applying a repeating circular graining often found in watch movements. 1931-2021 The retrospective includes a compact but all-encompassing line up of watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s museum in Le Sentier, including the very first Reverso from 1931 as well as the latest models conceived to mark the 90th anniversary. While the original Reverso is famed for its clever simplicity, the exhibits also include little-known variations such as the Reverso Cordonnet from 1933, a stylish Reverso for ladies that has a black-cord strap and two-tone case. And the exhibits naturally include the uncommon, highly-complicated models from the 1990s, when the brand first ventured into larger cases for the Reverso – and first started both sides of the case for displays. In fact, some of those watches are landmarks in Jaeger-LeCoultre history: the brand’s first-ever tourbillon as well as chim...
SJX Watches
A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...
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Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: “What Tweaks my Tourb” is a recurring series where I reveal the things that irk me within my own watch-collecting journey. Previously I touched on clasp sizing, asymmetrical running seconds registers, and Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements. This week will be arguably my most pathologically nitpicky yet, but then again I suspect a lot of … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I’ve never understood the term “tool watch”. After all, you don’t hear people talking about tool cars or tool computers – because “tool” is redundant. Anything used to do something is a tool, and last I checked, even a dress watch tells the time. If you want to refer to a dive watch, then call it … ContinuedThe post OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While Chanel watches were all about the Electro “Rainbow” last year, its 2022 high horology timepieces form the Red Edition Collection. Including in the line up are the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Editions, both ladies watches powered by the same notably interesting in-house movement, the hand-wind Caliber 3. Initial thoughts Chanel puts out fine mechanical movements – the Caliber 1 of the Monsieur exemplifies that – but typically with the bold, varied, and tasteful style that only a fashion house can achieve. The new pair of Boy.Friend Skeleton watches are exactly that. The clean, distinctive shape is inspired by a perfume bottle, but it has a strong form that is appealing. More appealing is the Caliber 3 inside, an in-house movement with a strong geometric aesthetic that suits the case perfectly. It is clear the movement’s developers wanted it to look good, and they succeeded. The Caliber 3 inside the Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition with a clear sapphire case Though both watches are certainly large enough to be men’s watches – the case dimensions are similar to a men’s Cartier Tank – they are unquestionably ladies’ watches (and Chanel markets them as such). Given the compelling movement, the Boy.Friend Skeleton one of the most interesting time-only watches for ladies on the market. The Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition in Beige Gold set with rubies Bottle shaped The rectangular case of the Boy.Friend is modelled on the bottle cap of Chanel’s No. 9...
Revolution
After the Submariner and “Small Block” Prince Chrono era of the late ’90s, in the 2000s Tudor tried and tested the market with a number of non-Rolex derived models. We take a look at three of these watches with their eye on the land, sky and sea…
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: We have been advised by readers that this watch has allegedly not been sent to consumers despite repeated promises. We have contracted the brand ourselves and not received a response. We suggest readers be very wary about proceeding to buy these watches. Let me guess, you see a Submariner and you yawn. Time and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Phantasos Triclops is that rarest of things – a truly original watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
“You can never be too rich or too thin” isn’t a sentiment I generally agree with, but in the world of horology, opulence and a slender profile are considered attractive virtues. And while some attempts at both smack of a “because we can” attitude (without considering whether or not that exercise is successful), sometimes, just … ContinuedThe post The slinky genius of the record-breaking Bulgari Octo Finissimo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Panerai is one of those brands which knows its niche and sticks by it, with a legion of loyal fans all proud to wear the Swiss-made Italian name on their wrists. While they may only have a a few key elements that define their identity as a watch brand, thankfully one such element is a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Blu Notte boasts a bracelet to remember appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best judging by the online traffic. At number 11, it’s the Cartier Tank Must Collection… The quartz crisis is often spoken about with abject horror, and for good reason. Japanese … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Cartier Tank Must Collection (#11) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Naomi Osaka is undeniably one of the modern tennis greats, but where she really stands out is in the press conferences. I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not a tennis fan, but her dry humour and earnest attitude makes her seem like one of the most approachable and down-to-earth athletes of this generation. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
While these days community building in the enthusiast realm seems increasingly the domain of brand-agnostic organizations, there remain old-school organizations whose members are devoted to the watches of a single maker. One such example is the Journe Society, a small, low-profile group of enthusiast collectors. GaryG sheds some light on the group and its specially commissioned group watch.
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Thinking about getting a Pepsi? Here's all you need to know about one of Rolex's biggest Icons in the upcoming year of 2026 - how it wears, the hard facts, what it's actually good for and most importantly : PRICES.
SJX Watches
Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...
Time+Tide
On January 1, we all sat there, slowly recovering from champagne and too much finger food. Some of us looked forward to what we hoped would be a much better year. The rest of us, well we got caught in some early year watch-spotting craziness, which started when Michelle Obama posted a picture of herself … ContinuedThe post What the hell was Barack Obama wearing? A timeline of a maverick watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Some of the top watch manufacturers in the world have released special edition watches in honor of the 50th anniversary of the UAE for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, who stages Dubai Watch Week. This collection of 35 models – which is also very likely already long sold out – makes for a very interesting chapter in the ever-evolving stories of the UAE and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Check out five of the most interesting right here!
Time+Tide
There is a reason why the collective love for vintage continues to grow in the watch community. The styles and designs of the past heavily influence what we see today. So for many, the allure of the original becomes much stronger than that of a modern reinterpretation. Beyond these elements, other factors can also be … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: Get your vintage vibes from @thefemalewatchcollector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Most famous for its jewelled timepieces and the Astronomia, Jacob & Co. specialises in over the top watches. One of its latest is the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. Inspired by the film of the same name, it’s a massive watch in the brand’s typical style of a sapphire cake dome containing a 758-component movement. While The Godfather branding on the dial is gaudy, the mechanics of the watch are surprisingly unusual and impressively complex. The Godfather repeater can chime the time with the minute repeating function and also play The Godfather theme on the miniature two-cylinder musical box within the case (see the video just below). That makes it a two-train grand complication at heart: one barrel and going train drives the triple-axis tourbillon and time display – which is linked to the repeating mechanism – while the second barrel and train power the music box. Initial thoughts Jacob & Co. specialises in loud watches, so everything has to be judged by that benchmark. The Twin Turbo Furious, for example, is one of the tamer complications the brand offers. The Godfather repeater fits right into that repertoire. It’s enormous – almost 50 mm wide and over 20 mm high – so it scores low on wearability. But it scores high on making a state on the wrist, in both aesthetics and function, which is unquestionably the point of the whole exercise. The button that activates the music box, with the slide for the repeater just below it That said, the large size is not...
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Time+Tide
After a jam-packed calendar of novelty debuts and watch fairs, the holiday break was welcomed by the Time+Tide team. As watch lovers, not just labourers, we were, of course, still plugged into the community – ears to the ground and fingers on the pulse. But it was also a time to be with friends, family, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Goodbye 2021, hello 2022… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There were a lot of great watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic. At number 18, it’s the Grand Seiko SLGA007 140th Anniversary Limited Edition… Recently we covered the … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Grand Seiko SLGA007 140th Anniversary Limited Edition (#18) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Back in 2020, Grand Seiko dropped two US Special Edition watches, marking the birth of the Sōkō Collection that takes its inspiration from the end of Autumn and the first frosts that usher in the Winter season. Both the debuting duo of Sōkō watches had vertically brushed dials that embodied how light passes through the bamboo … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Grand Seiko kicks off 2022 with icy blue dials, one of which is kira-zuri! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With more and more people looking to buy wristwatches, it is crucial that there are more fiscally viable opportunities to join in on the fun. Many people can’t spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a watch. Fortunately, however, you don’t necessarily have to in order to secure some high-quality wristwear. We recently shared a … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide audience has spoken: Your favourite watch under $1000 is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In order to understand watches, I knew I had to understand Patek. So I went to Geneva for a tour of the brand's mothership museum. Lesson one: Don't show up late to a place that's all about timekeeping.
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