Deployant
New: Grand Seiko Soko Editions for US markets with Editorial Commentary
Grand Seiko made a special announcement today, and introduced the next member of the Seasons family in the Soko duo exclusively for the US markets.
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Deployant
Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Episode 114: The Isolation Tapes // Topic Not Found
Things that matter, and things that don't.
Time+Tide
How the Swatch Casino Royale changed my collecting forever
When I had my great-grandfather’s 1958 Omega Seamaster restored, I was convinced that I’d never wear, or need another watch again. It looked great, performed fantastically, and I had a personal connection to it that just didn’t exist for anything else. But as my interest in watches and time spent researching them grew, it was … ContinuedThe post How the Swatch Casino Royale changed my collecting forever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
The ultimate Breguet Marine adds a new colorway with unique details to match.
Time+Tide
“Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection
“I haven’t read your article yet about which action stars are wearing which watches,” IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr begins the interview by saying. “I just very much hope you haven’t got Jason Statham in there with his one Rolex in that one film, even though he buys and owns all his IWCs himself and wears … ContinuedThe post “Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain Dial “Suigetsu”
Having gained a big following for its tremendous value proposition, the Seiko Presage collection often features dials in artisanal finishes such as fired enamel and urushi, combined with solid movements and affordable prices. The latest to join the collection is the Presage Arita Porcelain Dial “Suigetsu”, which has a pure-white porcelain dial matched with dark blue hands and markers. The colours of the watch take inspiration from Suigetsu (水月) – literally as “water moon” – which describes a subtle, ethereal beauty that might be an illusion. It is also a nod to Tsukimi, which translates as “viewing the moon”, the Japanese autumn moon festival where the moon’s reflection on water is admired. Initial thoughts The Presage collection does democratise the artisanal methods used for dial making, the fairly large limited-edition runs dampen the appeal of each release. Even though the dials are made in large numbers, the dial-making process is complex and artisanal. But the new Presage is priced at only US$2,050, which makes it pretty much a bargain, just like many of the other Presage limited editions. I have always found porcelain dials to have a richer and more profound depth and texture when compared with enamel dials, although both have a similar glossy, smooth appearance. The Arita porcelain dials are exceptional for the price, boasting a silky and creamy finish that’s one of the most appealing dials found on a watch in this price range. Because ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Porcelain Dial, a liquid white delight
First, we had the Limited Edition ‘Moonlit Night’, and now we have a brand new Limited Edition porcelain dial model inspired by Suigetsu, a Japanese tradition which celebrates the beauty of the moon reflected in water. If you needed another reason to be entranced by this stunning, liquid white porcelain dial, there it is – a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Porcelain Dial, a liquid white delight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Argentium Tourbillon Skeleton
Born in Holland but now based in Geneva, Kees Engelbarts is one of the most prominent and established engravers in Swiss watchmaking. He moved to Geneva in 1994, and began a career as an independent engraving not long after. Amongst the brands he has worked for are major names like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Hublot, but also independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour and Svend Andersen. Mr Engelbarts also makes watches under his own name, focusing on elaborately engraved or open-worked movements. His latest creation is the Argentium Tourbillon, an incredibly airy yet organic tourbillon that’s been skeletonised entirely by hand. Initial thoughts Mr Engelbarts is one of the oldest names in movement skeletonisation, so whether or not you like the aesthetic, the work is always excellent. His engraved creations are mostly figurative, often depicting a mythological creature, while his skeletonisation is usually organic and extremely striking. Though the look of the Argentium Tourbillon is too alien for me, the work is impressive. The bridges are refined and organic, and looking almost soft, but they are metal. Going from a full bridge made of German silver to an extraterrestrial life form is tedious work made up of cutting and filing. The craft is both delicate and physical, and similar to the craft of a high-end jeweller. A reductive process The Argentium Tourbillon starts with a CH016 movement made by Le Cercle des Horlogers, a movement specialist in Neuchatel that specialise...
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K
Editor’s note: The Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ feels like it’s been around forever. It probably has claims, as much as practically any other modern watch, and certainly on any other diver, on being something of a modern icon with its striking ‘ventral pleats’ horizontally striping the dial, and its top to bottom blue graduation designed to emulate … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition
To mark the recent opening of its first store in continental Europe – and its biggest boutique in the world – Grand Seiko has unveiled the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition, either in platinum (SBGK011) or rose gold (SBGK013). With a dial motif inspired by the streets of Paris, the limited edition is powered by the 9S63 movement. Located at the corner of the posh Place Vendôme famous for being home to jewellers and the Hôtel Ritz, the new Grand Seiko boutique is the brand’s largest store ever, with a floor area of over 190 square metres (or some 2000 square feet) spread over two floors. Distinctly Japanese in style and materials – the floors are tatami and the screens, bamboo – the is the work of Kengo Kuma, one of Japan’s leading contemporary architects. The Grand Seiko Boutique Paris Vendôme Grand Seiko’s location on the square with the entrance to the store at the lower right corner of the photo, adjacent to the white awning Initial thoughts If the limited editions look familiar, it’s for good reason – they are based on the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection introduced last year, featuring the same case, movement, and dial layout. The refined dimensions of the Elegance Collection immediately made it one of my favourites of the Grand Seiko collection. Although Grand Seiko watches are well designed and equipped with great movements, the cases tend to wear large and thick, something the Elegance Collection managed to avoid. The 9S63 as seen in a ...
Revolution
Reservoir - The Thrill of It All
Reservoir plays off its design strengths to appeal to our sense of adventure.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Serica watches, the revival of the affordable good watch
Serica was born only late last year when they were announced to the world as a brand that would offer a well-designed and robust timepiece at a fair price. They delivered in spades with their first watch, the Serica W.W.W. (standing for Wrist. Watch. Waterproof), inspired by the watches of the Second World War, where … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Serica watches, the revival of the affordable good watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
New Iron Walker By Wempe Glashütte: Serious Steel
Wempe Glashütte, the watch brand from Germany’s most famous retailer, has recently introduced a new team to the sporty steel-encased league: the Iron Walker. Sabine Zwettler takes a closer look at the three flagship models at debut.
Quill & Pad
Bohematic Graphic Sutnar: Czech Watchmaking By Design
The Bohematic Graphic Sutnar is an homage to Ladislav Sutnar, the most significant artistic figure in Czechoslovakia's interwar period of modernism. Sutnar was chosen as the historical figure to launch this brand-new micro brand and its first line. However, the Graphic Sutnar watch bears not only the name of the world-renowned artist, but also his unique font for the numerals. Find out what all that means right here!
Deployant
Chillout TGIF: Reader contribution – @horomariobro
Sometimes, we come across exceptional Instagram accounts, and feel compelled to share them with you. We feature @horomariobro. Go follow his IG.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer
Having revived the Master Control models of 1992 earlier this year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) was surely going to do the same for one of its longest-lived complications, the vibrating Memovox alarm. And so it has, with two new alarm watches in fact: the Master Control Memovox and the Master Control Memovox Timer. Both are powered by the same base movement, but the limited-edition Memovox Timer features an additional countdown function for the alarm. The cal. 956 with an open-worked, pink gold rotor Initial thoughts The base-model Master Control Memovox looks just like the Memovox of 20 years ago, and it is a good look. Now the case finishing has been upgraded, as has the movement – which is now visible through a display back – creating a tidy package that’s just right. And price-wise the new model is comparable to recent JLC alarm watches, which is fair, albeit still a bit pricey. A little bit more funky and countdown scale in relief, the Master Control Memovox Timer is a lot more expensive, almost 35% more expensive than the base model. It does have an added countdown function to go along with the fancier dial, but it is too expensive. Ringing since 1951 The Master Control Memovox is a moderate 40 mm in diameter, though fairly thick at 12.39 mm, a necessary consequence of the movement. Compared to its namesake watch of the 1990s, the case has grown slightly larger, but more importantly has an improve finish. It features contrasting polished and brushed finished on the ...
SJX Watches
Editorial: The Rise of the Indian Watch Collector
Years ago, while attending a wedding in the southern Indian state of Kerala, I noticed most men in attendance were uniformly dressed – crisp, white linen shirt and matching mundu. Some milled about, some laughed over the most recent ministerial gaffe making the rounds, and others waited impatiently for the evening to end. For an outsider, the plainness of their attire seemed at odds with the occasion they were attending, except for the occasional glint of gold on their wrists, which caught my eyes more often than I’d anticipated. The heavy lustre of their Rolex watches, as most were, stood out because of the simplicity of everything else. Observing closely one could notice the subtle nods of affirmation exchanged between the men as they glanced at each other’s timepieces. For a culture obsessed with jewellery – India is the world’s second-largest consumer of the precious metal according to the World Gold Council – the country has taken predictably well to fine watches. Timepieces in precious metals form a substantial proportion of the gifts given to grooms – a practice that is, in a small but undeniable way, bringing the appeal of horology to a larger, otherwise untapped audience. A market in its infancy But the sales of luxury watches in India are far lower in proportion to its population as compared to say, China. According to trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), Switzerland exported 1.99 billion Swiss francs of watches to China in ...
SJX Watches
MB&F; Introduces the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser
Partners for more than a decade in the supply of hairsprings, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F; have recently announced their first watch collaboration. Both mark their 15th anniversaries with a pair of watches that each brand designed for the other, blending the defining traits of both. MB&F; helped styled the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F;, while Moser added its signature aesthetic to the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser. A refreshing take on MB&F;’s simplest Legacy Machine, the new LM101 has a steel case and the option of four dial colours in Moser’s signature smoked finish – Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, red fumé, and Aqua Blue fumé – each limited to 15 pieces. The watch incorporates the aesthetic sensibilities of H. Moser & Cie on the front, along with a slight redesign of the movement. Initial thoughts Based on the photos, the new LM101 is one of the most appealing recent watches from MB&F;, though that isn’t really a surprise since it synthesises the elements that have made both brands successful – and the elements remain successful when combine together. The most apparent is the sunray-brushed, fumé dial that is very much Moser. Although the brand did not invent the look, the smoked finish has become synonymous with the brand – and the fumé effect also translates very well on the LM101. While the Moser fumé finish has been added, the traditional sub-dials (for the time and power reserve) of the LM101 have been removed. This streamlinin...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer
Jaeger-LeCoultre must be strong proponents of the adage “you can never have too much of a good thing”. Why? Well, it’s not even been two months since the Le Sentier outfit unveiled their excellent 2020 novelties at this year’s digital Watches & Wonders, and already they’re dropping two new models that are sure to have … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The week the watch world changed
If you are the kind of person that thinks the watch media should “stay in [their] lane” when it comes to commenting on anything but the latest watch releases, then it’s best you scroll on to the next story. This one, like many recent posts by brands and individuals in the industry, is about this … ContinuedThe post The week the watch world changed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Business News: Frédéric Arnault Named CEO Of TAG Heuer
A young executive has the opportunity to breathe new life into the historic brand.
SJX Watches
Business News: Frédéric Arnault Appointed Chief Executive of TAG Heuer
Having joined TAG Heuer in 2017, Frédéric Arnault has just been named the watchmaker’s boss, effective July 1. He succeeds Stephane Bianchi, who will then be elevated to head the newly-formed LVMH Watch and Jewellery division – a job that Mr Arnault is perhaps being groomed for – which encompasses the group’s three watch brands, which include Hublot and Zenith, as well as its smaller jewellery brands, Chaumet and Fred. The biggest LVMH jewellery brand, Bulgari, retains its standalone status. Bulgari chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin, who industry sources say enjoys a competitive rivalry with Mr Bianchi, will report only to the number two man in LVMH, Group Managing Director Antonio Belloni. Presumably Tiffany & Co., the American jeweller that LVMH is in the process of acquiring, will enjoy similar independence. A digital leader While Mr Arnault is the fourth son of Bernard Arnault, the founder and controlling shareholder of LVMH, the younger Arnault arrived in the watch business with an impressive résumé. The 25-year old graduated from France’s prestigious Ecole Polytechnique with a degree in Computational and Applied Mathematics, notching up internships at McKinsey and Facebook along the way. He started at TAG Heuer as head of connected watches, just as the brand was ramping up its push into smartwatches, before being promoted to Strategy and Digital Director in 2018, where he led the design of the latest-generation Connected watch. The recently launch...
Time+Tide
Rent a Rolex Submariner now for $299 a month – will luxury watch rentals ever take off?
“Consumers have demonstrated an appetite to shift away from traditional ownership to newer ways in which to access product.” That was the intro of the “End of Ownership” chapter in “The State of Fashion 2019”, a detailed report by the Business of Fashion and global management consultants McKinsey. The chapter outlined one of the big … ContinuedThe post Rent a Rolex Submariner now for $299 a month – will luxury watch rentals ever take off? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Ultraplate in Steel
A staple of Blancpain line-up since the brand was reestablished in the early 1980s, the extra-slim Villeret wristwatch is stripped to the bare essentials but classically-styled, and it’s now available in stainless steel, and also red gold. Understated and thin, the Villeret Ultraplate 6224 is an automatic three-hander with a date display, and just over 8 mm thick, hence the name – ultra plate translates as “ultra flat”. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of classic dress watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava and the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, the Villeret Ultraplate is a simple design that’s easy to replicate, which is why similar styles can be found in cheap as well as expensive watches. What differentiates such watches is the quality of execution, particularly in the details. The dial of the Villeret Ultraplate is unadorned, and almost plain, but the Roman numerals are solid gold appliqués affixed to the dial by hand, adding much-needed height and texture to an otherwise flat dial. The slender, open-worked leaf hands also complement the simplicity of the design. Such hands are not overly common, making them appealing. And then there’s the date. While it adds extra utility that is appreciated by some, I am not a fan. The date hampers the purity and symmetry of the dial. With a retail price of a bit over US$8,000 in steel, the Villeret Ultraplate is competitively priced for a dress watch powered by a high-end, automatic movement. Extra-thin The case is ...
Deployant
New: Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm, a model refresh
Blancpain adds 8 novelties to the Villeret Ultraplat 38mm collection. In steel or red gold case, with and without diamond bezel and alligator or bracelet.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Konstantin Chaykin and Telling the Time on Mars
When Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin announced the Mars Conqueror last year, it was not the first Martian-time wristwatch, but it was by far the most advanced and comprehensive watch to indicate Martian time – and even the Martian calendar. TAG Heuer was appointed the official timekeeper for China’s Mars exploration mission in 2016, with its chief executive Jean-Claude Biver declaring that exploring the Red Planet is “the next giant leap for humanity”. With its launch planned for July 2020, the Chinese journey to Mars is just one of several missions to the planet – Russian space agency Roscosmos and NASA are working on similar projects. Despite the steady progress in reaching Mars, no big watch brand has debuted a watch that tells Martian time. Konstantin Chaykin’s experimental Mars Conqueror of 2019 But such watches have been built, as a matter of necessity for the scientists involved in past Mars missions. NASA’s Mars Exploration Rover (MER) of 2004, for instance, commissioned several watchmakers to construct simple but effective Martian-time watches. Since the Martian day, known as a sol, is 24 hours, 39 minutes and 35 seconds, the solution was to slow a conventional watch to match Martian time. Steve Maddox of North Little Rock converted a second world war, military-issue Hamilton 4992B pocket watch for MER team member Jeff Moersch, reducing its frequency from the standard 18,000 beats per hour (bph) to about 17,525 bph. And Los Ang...
SJX Watches
Harry Winston Introduces Project Z14 Retrograde Seconds
Project Z is Harry Winston’s distinct approach to the luxury-sports. Named after Zalium, a zirconium-aluminium alloy that’s strong, light and resistant to corrosion, Project Z usually combines the exotic alloy with an open-worked dial. The new Project Z14 sticks to the established formula, but in a first for the line, features a retrograde seconds. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Project Z14 would not be remiss among the previous Project Z watches, looking futuristic and avant-garde just like its siblings. Notably, it shares the same sculpted, brushed case and a multi-layered dial accented with the signature Harry Winston shade of blue. The oversized crown guard with triple fluting is inspired by the arch above the doorway to Harry Winston’s flagship store on New York’s 5th Avenue The enhanced sense of depth and structure is what sets the Project Z14 apart from its predecessors. A small tweak that makes for this significant difference is the chamfered bezel, replacing the flat and smooth found on the past offerings. Providing more angles and facets to a case that is already architectural in style, the chamfered bezel blends in perfectly with the various bevels on the case and lugs. With such a modern design, it is no surprise that the case is large – 42.2 mm in diameter and 10.7 mm tall – and suited to contemporary tastes. The openwork dial The visual depth is compounded by the attractive, open-worked dial that boasts a multitude of details. The grid-motif...
Time+Tide
Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in…
Entire nations forced under lockdown, airlines teetering on the brink of collapse, fistfights erupting over rolls of toilet paper … Coronavirus has rocked the planet and God knows what life will be like when ‘normality’ resumes. It’s unlikely to be normal as we knew it, that’s for sure. In such desperate times, it may seem … ContinuedThe post Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the MB&F; × H. Moser Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and LM101
H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F; found an opportunity to collaborate, and the result is an astonishing duet of watches that shares the DNA of both.
SJX Watches
Up Close: H. Moser × MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
Long rumoured and much anticipated, the tie-up between MB&F; and H. Moser & Cie. is here. Moser applied its sensibilities to the MB&F; LM101, while MB&F; revamped its Moser Endeavour Tourbillon. The result is the H. Moser × MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, which is more than a new, smoky paint job. It is indeed a Moser tourbillon enhanced with MB&F; design, but the redesign goes beyond the styling. An indirect going train was added to reposition the time display, and more importantly, the tourbillon has been reconstructed to feature a cylindrical hairspring, which is surprisingly cool in action. Initial thoughts When I found out about the Moser and MB&F; collaboration some months ago, I expected it to be a wristwatch with a fumé dial and MB&F;-inspired detailing – and it is. At a distance, it is reminiscent of the recent MB&F; LM Thunderdome Triple-Axis Tourbillon, which is substantially more complicated, but also substantially more expensive. Up close, the details reveal it is a Moser. Some details, like the fumé dial, are obvious, while others, like the curved hairspring stud holder and two-tone balance wheel, are more subtle. The watch is not as predictable as the MB&F; x Moser formula might imply. Despite sticking to Moser’s minimalist leanings, the face manages to be thoroughly three-dimensional, though legibility is so-so. Most importantly, it boasts a compelling tourbillon – that is really impressive in motion – while being less expensive than the typical...