Results for Windup Watch Fair New York

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Worn & Wound

Seiko SNA414 Gold Flightmaster Mar 6, 2026

The Seiko SNA414 Gold Flightmaster: A Gilded Take on an Enthusiast Classic

The Seiko SNA411 has been an icon of the watch industry for years. Frequently appearing on “Best Affordable Watches” lists, it’s no wonder Seiko’s other two variants would eventually catch the eye of collectors as well. The SN413 is far and away the most sought-after variant of the Flightmaster formula, but what about the often overlooked SNA414? I’ll be the first to admit that gold-tone watches are typically not in habitual rotation within my collection––aside from a few special pieces––but that doesn’t mean there’s not a lot to enjoy about this model. What makes the SNA414 a good candidate for your next acquisition? Let’s find out. The SNA414 History and Design Nailing down a definite release date for the SNA414 is difficult, but according to numerous blogs, press releases, and wristwatch websites, it appears this variant began production sometime between late 2007 and early 2008. I’m unsure whether all three variants of the lineup were released at the same time, but from sources consulted online, it appears they were at least announced and brought to market around the same time. I must note that the name “Flightmaster” may confuse a few collectors out there who may have seen another model of Seiko’s catalog nicknamed with the same moniker. In the 1990s, the first iteration of the Flightmaster was released with the 7T34 movement. The -6A09 variant is technically the first gold Flightmaster the brand produced, making the subject of this art...

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Monochrome

De Rijke & Co Amalfi Series Mar 6, 2026

Introducing - De Rijke & Co. Amalfi Series 2, Drivers’ Watches with Car-Themed Enamel Dials

Suppose you know the Dutch indie watchmaking scene, then De Rijke & Co. is the name you must be familiar with. Founded by Laurens De Rijke, the brand began almost by accident during a vintage Vespa trip, when the idea for a watch specifically designed for driving emerged. De Rijke’s concept of a driver’s watch […]

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Worn & Wound

Anoma ly.  Lamb’s watches genuinely Mar 5, 2026

Interview: the Convictions of James Lamb

It’s a fair assumption that if you’re the kind of enthusiast that’s interested in independent watchmaking, the allure of something a little different isn’t lost on you. The independent watch space is a wildly diverse one that’s full of outsider artisans, but even in a field of outsiders, English watchmaker James Lamb is something of an anomaly.  Lamb’s watches genuinely don’t look like anything else on the market. While they’re all time-only affairs, they feature an offset sub-dial layout that frees up the outer portion of the dial to be used as a decorative space. With his Origin Series, Lamb applies strikingly colorful enamel work to the outer dial section. With his latest release, the Linea Edition, Lamb has collaborated with one of the UK’s most respected ornamental engravers, Joanne Ryall, to create a line of watches with beautifully hand-engraved titanium and gold outer dials.  While the dials are showstopping displays of handcraft, Lamb’s watches also feature completely handmade cases (read: no CNC machines used), which he crafts out of Argentium silver. Lamb’s case designs are robust and understated; they do a fabulous job of grounding the watch’s bold dial designs, but the craftsmanship that goes into them is something serious horology enthusiasts fawn over. For Lamb, a self-proclaimed watch industry isolationist, doing things like crafting his cases entirely by hand is kind of the whole point of making watches.  Lamb deliberately avoids...

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Worn & Wound

Marathon Mar 5, 2026

Marathon Expands the Anthracite SAR Collection

Like the now-ubiquitous diver and pilot styles, the mil-spec field watch is experiencing a moment in the sun. The appeal is easy to understand: much like how the original Willy’s Jeep took to post-war civilian life by offering cheap, rugged, and reliable transportation, the military-styled field watch offers significant toughness while keeping functionality simple and usable for everyday telling. Put simply, it’s a romantic promise of adventure and bravado, scaled down to wristsize. Canadian watchmaker Marathon has been making mil-spec timepieces since WWII, and has offered tactical variants like the 41mm Anthracite GSAR for those looking for that covert ops image; the new 46mm Anthracite Jumbo Day/Date, and the 36mm Anthracite MSAR Auto straddle that original model in the Anthracite lineup, and offer further complications for the enthusiast audience. The two new models in the Anthracite Search and Rescue (SAR) Unit borrow heavily from their 41mm predecessor in both styling and construction. Both feature a 316L stainless steel case with titular Anthracite finish, a uni-directional bezel, a screw-down crown, and tritium gas tube and MaraGlo luminous numerals, hands, and markers. Visually, the watches look very similar; Marathon’s legible and surprisingly un-aggressive typefaces keep the white numerals crisp and clear against the black dial. The overall styling is complicated but not visually distracting, an important aesthetic facet for a field watch.  On the 46mm mo...

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SJX Watches

Zenith Elite automatic that’s been Mar 2, 2026

Hands On: Gérald Genta “Geneva” Time-Only

Like its sister brand Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta recently unveiled a model that is entirely new, rather than one based on the brand’s historical designs. The Geneva time-only is a two-hand watch with a minimalist yet distinctive design that manages to capture the spirit of 1980s and 1990s Gérald Genta without being a remake. The cushion-shaped case was debuted last year with a six-figure minute repeater, but now the brand has now applied the design to something more affordable, relatively speaking. Inside is a Zenith Elite automatic that’s been dressed up surprisingly well, above and beyond the usual presentation of the calibre. Initial thoughts The revived Gerald Genta’s debut model, the Oursin, was a reissue of sorts. The Geneva, on the other hand, is a more original creation that’s no doubt inspired by the typical Genta aesthetic, but not a like-for-like remake. It’s a testament to the design that the Geneva could pass for a 1990s Gerald Genta watch even though it is not. The Geneva almost wears like a 1990s watch as well. It’s compact by today’s standards, though these proportions would have been extra-large 30 years ago. Its slimness and narrow lugs give this a formal feel, though the colours are more vivid than usual for a dress watch. The dial is definitely more 21st century than the case, especially with the grained finish, but the gradient colour is evocative of the 1970s and suits the style of the watch. I imagine a great many more colours can be s...

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Worn & Wound

IWC Turns Feb 27, 2026

Hands-On: IWC Turns on Dark Mode with the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium

I’m writing this just a few hours jetlagged from an IWC preview in Los Angeles, where I had the chance to see much of what the brand has in store for this year. Now while most of what I saw has to stay under embargo for now, one piece I can talk about is the new Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it’s one I feel most watch enthusiasts didn’t see coming.  I should admit something up front: the Portugieser line has never been a true favorite of mine. I’ve always thought it was a little too dress-forward and formal. That’s not a criticism, just my own preference. I just typically gravitate toward pieces that feel sportier or more tool-like. Which is exactly why this release surprised me. This is the sportiest Portugieser we’ve seen yet, and it really shifts the tone of a collection that has previously leaned more elegant.  The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (Ref. IW371631) keeps the familiar 41mm proportions of the modern Chronograph but the case, crown, and pushers are now crafted in Ceratanium, IWC’s proprietary titanium-based material. If you’re not familiar with Ceratanium, IWC developed this material over five years and it is a patented, matte-black material made by firing a special titanium alloy in a kiln, resulting in a scratch-resistant, non-coated surface.  Ceratanium has historically felt most at home within IWC’s more tool-like utilitarian watches, particularly in the Pilot’s Watch line. We’re big fans of this material at Worn & W...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review Feb 26, 2026

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review

In 2017, IWC introduced a proprietary alloy called Ceratanium, or ceramized titanium, a hard, lightweight material that combined the best of ceramic and titanium. Oh, and it happened to look pretty cool as well. The material has been used sparingly in the intervening years, largely appearing across the brand’s sport-watch portfolio, from the Pilot to the Aquatimer collections. This week, Ceratanium is making its first appearance in the Portugieser collection with a new, limited-edition 41mm chronograph featuring a Ceratanium case affixed to a black rubber strap. In an effort to drive the point home, the rest of the watch is fully murdered out making the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium a decidedly sporty take on this otherwise dressier collection. [toc-section heading="What's New"] The new watch is the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it turns the classic chronograph layout on its head by rendering every detail in shades of black (insert Henry Ford quote here). The Portugieser is a historic watch with roots that date back to the late 1930s, and its modern aesthetic is largely referential to that history. That underlying design remains intact here, with a large, open dial hosting Arabic numerals at each hour, and a set of leaf hands tracking the time against them. The two subdials are arranged vertically, retaining a symmetric layout that recalls the original time-only references that had subsidiary seconds located at 6 o’clock.  Using Ceratanium (which ha...

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Monochrome

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Feb 26, 2026

First Look - The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, the Icon in Dark Mode

Since its introduction in 1998, the classic IWC Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW3914) has barely evolved visually. It has only undergone a technical upgrade in 2020, with the introduction of a new generation featuring a manufacture calibre inside (ref. IW3916). And that consistency in the design and overall sporty-chic, nautically-inspired spirit is what makes this watch […]

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Fratello

Seiko 5 Sports SRPM09 HUF Feb 25, 2026

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPM09 HUF Limited Edition

Seiko has used its 5 Sports collection to reintroduce some of its great designs from the past. Often, they have been collaborative, limited-edition releases that have become hugely popular. With the new Seiko 5 Sports SRPM09 HUF Limited Edition, the brand brings back another funky watch from its archives. The new watch shows inspiration from […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPM09 HUF Limited Edition to read the full article.

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Longines Mini DolceVita Review Classic Feb 23, 2026

Longines Mini DolceVita Review: Classic Design, Modern Luxury

If there’s anything you should know about me, it's that small watches are essentially my kryptonite. My affinity for the teeny and tiny isn’t abating anytime soon, and luckily, we’ve seen the watch industry, in recent years, begin to catch up to my own (and many others') desire for small watches. From Bulgari’s new tiny movement to the recent Minification of the Royal Oak, all signs point to watchmakers meeting the rising demand for small watches. But Longines was slightly ahead of the curve in serving up what the tiny watch enthusiast community had been asking for, delivering the deliciously bite-sized Mini DolceVita  officially in 2023, and has expanded on this offering in the years following the launch. Obviously, I’ve long been bitten by the Mini DolceVita bug, and down below, I’ll be sharing what keeps me coming back to it beyond its petite frame. [toc-section heading="History and Context"] Longines early 20th-century design archive One thing that gets under my skin is when people automatically apply “Tank Dupe” to any and every watch with a rectangular case. Longines, like many other watchmakers, began making rectangular-shaped watches in the early 20th Century – like, in the 1910s, early. In the brand’s early archive, there are quite literally dozens of different rectangular watches along with other geometric shapes, reflecting the style and aesthetics of Art Deco. So, though the Cartier Tank is, inarguably, the most iconic rectangular case desi...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

H. Moser Spinnaker Maen Feb 20, 2026

Citizen and seconde/seconde/ Launch a Fun and Affordable Tsuyosa Limited Edition

For years now, Romaric Andre, better known as seconde/seconde/, has been collaborating with watch brands of all kinds on creative limited editions that effectively serve as visual puns. He’s applied his unique sense of humor and aesthetic to watches made by H. Moser, Spinnaker, Maen, and many more brands at every conceivable price point. We talked to him about his process and art here. This is all to say, watch enthusiasts have a pretty good understanding of seconde/seconde/ at this point. That’s a good thing, on one level, as it means his name (or his pseudonym, at least) is out there. But it also makes it harder to surprise, which was so much a part of the charm of those early collaborations.  The latest from seconde/seconde/ is about as good a distillation of what he’s all about as I can think of, and represents a real opportunity for enthusiasts who have been waiting for something affordable and representative from the designer to latch onto. The new watch, a collaboration with Citizen, is a limited edition of that brand’s Tsuyosa integrated bracelet sports watch. This is a platform that has proven to be quite popular for Citizen in recent years, offering a way to get into the normally high priced world of integrated bracelet sports watches for a minimal initial investment. I wrote about my own experience with a Tsuyosa here, and stand by my thesis that it’s a great way to get a feel for this type of sports watch. The new limited edition features a sunray bl...

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Fratello

Venezianico Arsenale Bizantino There are Feb 18, 2026

Why I Bought The Venezianico Arsenale Bizantino

There are many ways a certain watch can become your next target. Brands hope that presenting their latest creations and making them somewhat rare sparks your desire. For my next watch acquisition, I no longer follow a certain brand’s novelty announcements. Well, in a way, I am following all brands, which I partly justify by […] Visit Why I Bought The Venezianico Arsenale Bizantino to read the full article.

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Monochrome

H. Moser & Cie Releases Feb 18, 2026

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Releases its First Ceramic Model with the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic

In just six years, H. Moser & Cie.’s fluid Streamliner luxury sports watch collection with integrated bracelets has grown exponentially. An indication of the roadmap Moser envisioned for the Streamliner, the first model of 2020 featured a sophisticated flyback chronograph. Now home to models ranging from central seconds to perpetual calendars and from small seconds […]

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Monochrome

Girard-Perregaux Pays Tribute Feb 18, 2026

Introducing - Girard-Perregaux Pays Tribute to the Year of the Horse with a Special La Esmeralda Tourbillon

Since yesterday, China has started the New Year festivities, celebrating the Year of the Horse. Like every year, we’re seeing watch brands launching dedicated limited editions, as listed here. A bit late to the show, Girard-Perregaux is presenting its own take on the concept. But what the brand has done is, undoubtedly, the most exclusive horse-themed […]

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Bremont Introduces Feb 17, 2026

Bremont Introduces the Terra Nova Jumping Hour Stealth Black

Certain watch niches are riskier than others; for instance, seemingly every brand has tried a dive watch or chronograph because they are guaranteed crowd pleasers with straightforward functionality, whereas a world timer or moonphase complication is a little trickier to market to a general audience. In that corner of hyperniche sits the jumping hour watch, which to a non-watch nerd, is both visually and functionally baffling. But Bremont is no stranger to the jumping hour concept, having released successful models with the complication in the recent past. How have they fared with their latest iteration, the Terra Nova 38 Stealth Black? Let’s jump in and find out. While a seasoned horological expert may be familiar with a jumping hour complication, the casual shopper likely isn’t: basically, instead of displaying a sweeping hour hand, a jumping hour watch points to the current hour and “jumps” to the next hour once 60 minutes have elapsed. Conversely, it may instead display the hour in a window, with an imprinted disc moving below that ticks over to the next digit, much like a date window. The Stealth Black opts for the latter presentation, which gives it a clean, retro-futuristic design that differs from previous models in the brand’s jumping hour catalog, and their Terra Nova line more broadly. As the name suggests, the Stealth Black is characterized by its 38mm black DLC stainless steel case, finished in black diamond carbon-like coating, which gives it a sci-f...

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SJX Watches

Raketa Feb 17, 2026

Raketa’s 24-Hour Baikonur Takes Flight

Space-themed watches represent a sizable proportion of the luxury watch industry. In fact, there are so many that at times it seems like the Space Race itself might have been contrived solely as a marketing concept for luxury watches. But with a story this good, who can say no? Of course, it helps that the Raketa Baikonur is an appealing watch in its own right with convenient dual-time functionality and an attractive instrument-like 24-hour dial. Initial thoughts “They’ve got a man up there! It’s Gagarin!” Even though this imagined line was written for the 1983 film adaptation of Tom Wolfe’s The Right Stuff, it sums up the tension that underpinned the Space Race between the United States and the Soviet Union. The statement refers to Soviet Cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin, who became the first human in space in 1961, orbiting the Earth in 108 minutes. It’s a suitably dramatic event to commemorate with a wristwatch, especially from Raketa, a brand named in honour of Gagarin’s flight. Instrument-like dials can be boring, but the designers at Raketa did just enough to keep it interesting, referencing the brand’s emblematic Big Zero at noon and midnight, without taking it too far. An internal rotating flange offers an auxiliary 24-hour scale, adjustable by the second crown. This facilitates keeping track of two time zones with full AM/PM resolution, something that’s actually quite rare. The dial also positions noon at the traditional 12 o’clock position, which is wel...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond Feb 16, 2026

SJX Podcast: Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond the Royal Oak

Recorded shortly after Brandon’s return from Audemars Piguet’s launch event in Switzerland, Episode 28 of the SJX Podcast provides analysis of all the brand’s new releases, including the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, the 150 Heritage pocket watch, the upgraded Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm and its new in-house movement, and the latest open-worked perpetual calendar, which works equally well in Code 11.59 and Royal Oak guise. The conversation also touches on the internal reorganisation at AP that saw the creation of a multi-disciplinary fabrication laboratory dubbed the ‘Fab Lab.’ Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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SJX Watches

Rolex Feb 13, 2026

COSC Upgrades Standards to Certify More Than Timekeeping

Interesting news just out of Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the venerable Swiss chronometer testing body, which has just announced a major revamp to its testing to honour the COSC’s standard’s 50th anniversary. Excellence Chronometer, COSC’s new and improved certification program, goes beyond the ISO 3159 norm that has defined its tests for decades. Instead of just testing movements, Excellence Chronometer will require completed, cased watches to run within -2/+4 seconds a day, as well as pass wear simulation and magnetism tests. Initial thoughts While COSC remains the primary chronometer testing body in Switzerland, thanks largely to Rolex, its protocols have been due for an update for some time now. With the rise of alternative and in-house precision testing programs, the standard chronometer certification can sometimes feel left behind. Rolex’s own Superlative Chronometer certification first requires a COSC certificate, but then makes sure the watches run at -2/+2 seconds per day after further in-house testing. The METAS Chronometer program also requires the standard COSC certificate, but guarantees a regulation of 0/+5 seconds per day and a great resistance to magnetic fields. Seeing that COSC slowly updates and imposes more stringent criteria is a good sign, but it may still not be good enough. With the rise of advanced internal certification programs, it looks like some brands submit their models to COSC testing just to make sure they can...

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Worn & Wound

Feb 13, 2026

Review: The Leica ZM 2 (and M-11 D)

If you ever find yourself in the fortunate position of reviewing watches, you’ll quickly start compiling a mental list of the watches you’d like to see, wear, and spend time with. It’ll be a long list, and no matter how many watches you try, it’s not a list that will ever get shorter. I’ve been doing this for a few years now, and one watch that has always been near the top of my list was the Leica ZM 2, a passive GMT watch made to a high standard from - and there’s no other way of putting this - a camera company. Unfortunately, the ZM 2 has managed to continually elude me. That is, until now. There’s plenty to say about the ZM 2, but before we get into this too deeply, let’s get two things out of the way: First, I’m not sure it was a good move for Leica to rename its flagship watch so soon after launch. It’s confusing for the consumer, and a bit annoying to anyone trying to cover the watch. So, for clarity’s sake, let me say that the ZM 2 is the same watch launched under the L2 name a few years ago, and it’s the same watch that was reviewed under that name by other outlets. It’s a confusing move, one that has, I think, made it slightly harder for the ZM 2 to grab a foothold than it otherwise might have been. Which is a bummer because (and this is my second point): This watch is great, full stop. I loved wearing the ZM 2, and I would happily own this watch should I ever find myself in a position to do so. I know some will question Leica’s thi...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe World Time ref 5330G Feb 10, 2026

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime

One of Louis Vuitton’s most distinctive complications, the Escale Worldtime was recently revised and upgraded, giving it improved legibility and an in-house movement. The nips and tucks have given the watch a sleeker, more refined aesthetic, while making the technicolour dial more readable. It’s still far from a “tool” watch, but the second-generation Escale Worldtime has all of the charm of the original that’s now grounded in solid, credible watchmaking. Initial thoughts I’m biased because I am a fan of the original Worldtime, right from when it was launched in 2014. The original was decidedly impractical, way too expensive, but an imaginatively different take on the classic Louis Cottier world time. The new model has all of the appeal of the original, but with a superior execution in substance and form. The new version has smoothed out all of the rough edges of the original, quite literally in some respects. The case is now finer, with more refined lines and a gently domed crystal, for instance. Functionality has improved substantially with a hand for the minutes and a jumping hours display. And the movement is now a latest-generation calibre, part of a family of industrial-haute horlogerie movements developed by LFT that is an achievement on its own. The LFT VO12.01 movement features a 22k pink gold rotor with a guilloche rim The Escale Worldtime costs over US$90,000, or about 10% more than the Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5330G in white gold. The Escale, ...

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Feb 10, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Audemars Piguet (AP) has updated the coveted Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, which makes its debut on the next-generation perpetual calendar platform that debuted last year. The new calibre allows for individual adjustment of each calendar indication using just the crown – no stylus (or toothpick) necessary. The first outing for the skeletonised version of this class-leading perpetual calendar is in titanium, with mirror polished accents in scratch-resistant Palladium BMG and pops of rose gold on the dial and case back, though more colourways are sure to come in due time. Initial thoughts The latest generation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is arguably AP’s strongest product. It is heir to the archetypal integrated bracelet perpetual calendar sports watch, which, until recently, was held back to some extent by what had become a dated movement. In fairness, the same can be said of its obvious competitors from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. That changed in 2025 when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was upgraded with the AP’s latest perpetual calendar movement, a significant release befitting the brand’s 150th anniversary year. The calibre 7138 introduced individual correction of the date, day, month, and moon phase using only the crown, allowing for quick adjustment without tools and with greater flexibility, and support for more indications, than existing solutions. And while we already understood the movement’s clever functionality, it rema...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Feb 9, 2026

Hands-On With The Fun CIGA Design Time Cipher

Sometimes good things happen really fast. It’s been less than two weeks since I wrote the introduction article for the new CIGA Design Time Cipher. In it, I expressed my wish to take the brand’s latest creation for a spin, and barely a week after publication, the watch landed on my desk. So for the […] Visit Hands-On With The Fun CIGA Design Time Cipher to read the full article.

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Fratello

Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic Urwerk Feb 6, 2026

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic

Urwerk is always up to something fun, and today’s new UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic is proof. While we’ve seen this complication before, it now comes with some novel material innovations. Let’s have a closer look. It doesn’t feel like so long ago that we were visiting Urwerk’s headquarters during Geneva Watch Days. However, only six months […] Visit Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic to read the full article.

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Monochrome

Feb 5, 2026

Introducing - The Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Stainless Steel and Rose Gold with Agave Blue Dial

Launched in 2021, the Tonda PF collection introduced a new vision of contemporary haute horlogerie built around restraint, proportion and what CEO Guido Terreni calls “private luxury”, watches designed to be lived with rather than constantly replaced. Among the first models was the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, a slim automatic watch with a date display. The […]

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SJX Watches

Feb 5, 2026

Roaring Twenties Marque Niton is Born Again

A long defunct Geneva watchmaker, Niton has been revived and is getting off the ground with the Prima, a historically-inspired jump hour watch. With some serious tricks up its sleeve – the proprietary calibre is surprisingly excellent – the Prima might just be the right new-meets-old infusion the watch market needs.  Initial thoughts Bringing back defunct but once illustrious watch manufactures is not a sure thing, and Niton might be more challenging than most given the lack of name recognition. The brand, however, did have a glorious, if short, history. The introductory model of the recently revived brand is the Prima. While the watch takes its inspiration from pieces made in the 1930s, the overall impression is more evocative of retro-futuristic 1960s. Rounded typography, thick indices, and a concentric pattern on the central minutes disk all make for a look that’s equally comforting and refined.  Arguably the best surprise is the in-house NHS01 inside the Prima. A square movement developed in-house, the ambitious, hand-wound NHS01 integrates the jump hour complication with the in-line minutes disk and small seconds display, all while bearing the coveted Poinçon de Genève. Seeing a small independent brand earn the demanding hallmark for its first run of pieces is nothing short of amazing. Both versions of the Prima sit at under the CHF50,000 mark, which places the model in the upper echelons of pricy independent time-only watches. However, one might argue the P...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet s 150 Heritage Feb 3, 2026

Audemars Piguet’s 150 Heritage is a Universal Cultural Calendar

Audemars Piguet celebrated 150 years of existence in 2025, but its celebrations have continued into the new year with the 150 Heritage Pocket Watch. While many large ultra-complicated pocket watches are exercises in nostalgia, the 150 Heritage is a modern marvel of micro-mechanical engineering with never-before-seen functionality inside a surprisingly compact 50 mm case. Initial thoughts Few brands can match Audemars Piguet’s track record of producing Grand Complication pocket watches, but the 150 Heritage surprises by adapting a calibre originally intended for the wrist. A complicated pocket watch with a simple name, the 150 Heritage is built around the cal. 1150, a newly developed hand-wound movement that adapts the architecture of the ambitious cal. 1000 developed for the Code 11.59 Universelle, and as such it includes past RD-series innovations. That said, the differences between the Universelle and the 150 Heritage are quite significant, thanks to an intriguing new feature: a hinged mechanical calculator, isolated from the movement. The intricate system is housed inside the case back and allows the user to effortlessly cycle through dates across any year to be able to read a surprising number of culturally-relevant dates based on lunar, solar and lunisolar cycles.  The device feels a bit like a time machine, as the lucky owner can go into the past or look into the future and find out the exact dates of Catholic Easter, Ramadan, Equinoxes and many others, along with...

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Fratello

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Feb 3, 2026

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Last year, Audemars Piguet introduced the revolutionary in-house caliber 7138. The movement introduced a completely new, user-friendly way to operate the perpetual calendar functions. It also lets users adjust the calendar forward and backward, which is a huge plus if they mistakenly set it too far ahead. After the release of last year’s Royal Oak […] Visit Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked to read the full article.

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Fratello

Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time I Jan 30, 2026

Why I Bought The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time

I had to drive from Amsterdam to Brussels in 2015 to see the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time with deadbeat seconds in the metal. It was worth it. Both the three-handed Geophysic True Second and Universal Time impressed me a lot, especially the travel watch with a world-map dial and a practical complication. Upon learning […] Visit Why I Bought The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time to read the full article.

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Fratello

Piaget Polo 79 Jan 28, 2026

Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In A Tantalizing Two-Tone Configuration

Two years ago, Piaget reintroduced its iconic Polo watch. The Polo 79 in full 18K yellow gold was a very appropriate way to celebrate the maison’s 150th anniversary. For those who thought that version was a bit too flashy, last year, Piaget introduced another variant in all 18K white gold. Now, if that one went […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In A Tantalizing Two-Tone Configuration to read the full article.

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Monochrome

Jan 27, 2026

First Look - The Unconventional, Brutalist Toledano & Chan B/1.3r

How do you approach a timepiece like this new Toledano & Chan…? While it is a watch, since it tells the time, the B/1.3r, like all previous models of the young brand, is not conventional. It’s not your daily, classic round watch. It is a deliberate statement, a watch that doesn’t play within the rules […]

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