Time+Tide
Andrew’s three Geneva Watch Days 2026 picks that hit hardest on the wrist
Andrew McUtchen picks the three watches that made the biggest impact at Geneva Watch Days 2026, from Bulgari, Frederique Constant and Gallet.
Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)
3,508 articles · 33 videos found · page 7 of 119
Time+Tide
WatchAdvice
Does The Bvlgari Aluminium Nail Neo-Futurism? (Hands-On)
Bvlgari’s Aluminium collection is one of their most disruptive collections, but does the cult classic still hold up? Let’s find out! What We Love: Highly wearable Unconventional, fun design Accessible relative to the catalogue What We Don’t: Underdeveloped movement Round lugs get caught under sleeves Can a cult classic become a flagship piece? Overall Rating: 7.5/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality:7/10 ‘Accessibility’ and ‘Bvlgari’ aren’t two terms that usually go hand-in-hand. This is mostly by design; the Italo-Swiss brand is mostly known for its extreme luxuries, combining the very best of the jewellery and watchmaking industries to do so. This often leads to designs of equally high ambition and extravagance, such as the Octo Finissimo’s record-breaking history or the inspired silhouette of its Diva’s Dream collection. But for as ostentatious as Bvlgari’s average price tag can be, the brand also offers its signature disruption at a relatively accessible price point. Through the Bvlgari Aluminium, a collection assembled from a medley of design cues from watches past, the brand proposes a sporty timepiece that is neither built nor designed like anything else. Not only does the line look like it was frozen in time, but its combination of aluminium and rubber is an experiment in materials unlike anything else on the market. But does the watch’s uniqueness still stand on its own, even when surrounded by a sea of h...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Does the Rolex Submariner Still Deserve to Be the Dive Watch Standard?
Does the Rolex Submariner still set the dive watch standard? Test its design, tool-watch credentials, and value against Tudor, Omega, Sinn, Doxa, and others.
Hodinkee
Announcements: Geneva Watch Days 2026 Will Take Place September 2-6
It's hard to believe that Geneva Watch Days, a watch fair that began in 2020 with fewer than 20 participating brands, now welcomes 68 watchmakers for its seventh edition. Taking place September 2-6, Geneva Watch Days has grown into one of the year's most jam-packed watch events, with brand presentations and launches spread across the city. Unlike traditional watch fairs like Watches and Watchers, Geneva Watch Days is decentralized, meaning that brands will present their latest creations at individual showrooms and locations across the city, rather than at one shared venue. At the center of the action is the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc, along the shores of Lake Geneva, where the event's Main Pavilion and Blue Box exhibition space will serve as central gathering points. The Pavilion will host discussions on the broader watch industry, while the Blue Box will showcase a curated selection of watches from different maisons in a themed exhibition. Five of the event's eight founding brands (Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, and MB&F;) will participate this year. They'll be joined by a diverse lineup of watchmakers, from major players like Zenith to independents such as Greubel Forsey, Ming, and Laurent Ferrier, many of whom will present new launches. On Thursday, there will also be a charity auction held by Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo. The sale's profits will help provide scholarships for students of Switzerland's oldest watchmaking school, École d'Horloge...
Fratello
Five Rolex References That Identify You As An Enthusiast
Anyone can point at a modern Submariner and know it’s a Rolex. Recognizing that the watch takes no real knowledge of the brand, Rolex has spent decades making sure of that. But there’s a different, quieter tier of Rolex ownership that has nothing to do with what’s easiest to identify from across the room. It’s […] Visit Five Rolex References That Identify You As An Enthusiast to read the full article.
Video
THAT is why you want that Rolex
In economics, most products follow a basic rule: when prices go up, demand goes down. But Veblen goods do the opposite. Here's why (luxury) watches are the PERFECT Veblen good and what that means for you as a collecto...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Chronoswiss’ Skeleton Chronograph Returns as the Opus Dakar Sundown
The Opus, one of the defining collections in the modern Chronoswiss catalogue, was originally introduced in 1995 as the world’s first serially produced skeletonised automatic chronograph. It remains a foundational part of the brand’s identity, continuing to evolve through colour, materials and finishing. Following last year’s titanium Opus Dakar with its desert-inspired palette, Chronoswiss now […]
Hodinkee
Business News: Breitling's House Of Brands Joins Watches And Wonders For 2027 As Dates Unveiled
One of the largest watch group holdouts is heading to Watches and Wonders in 2027 as Breitling's House of Brands will join the world's premier luxury watch fair for the first time. Scheduled to take place April 5 to 11 in Geneva at Palexpo, with supplementary programs and exhibitions including the In The City events that debuted at the most recent edition, brands including Breitling, Gallet, Universal Genève and Italy's Damiani will exhibit alongside founding partners Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richemont brands, among others, according to a statement from the non-profit Watches and Wonders Foundation. The inclusion of the House of Brands group marks a significant addition for Watches and Wonders, underscoring its position as the most important annual gathering of Swiss and international luxury watchmakers, retailers, media, and the public each spring. The announcement follows news that Basel will return to the watch fair schedule with a new watch and jewelry show called Basilia that will follow during the same month, and leaves Swatch Group as the only major Swiss watchmaking conglomerate not participating in Watches and Wonders. "The arrival of these new names represents an important milestone in the evolution of Watches and Wonders Geneva, and reflects the desire of major watchmaking Maisons to unite around a shared vision," Watches and Wonders organizers said in a prepared statement. A record 65 brands participated in the event in 2026, including, for the first time...
WatchAdvice
Does The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down Deserve Its Icon Status? (Review)
A pink gold Datograph Up/Down with serious chronograph engineering, rich contrast, and the kind of finishing only Lange can deliver. What We Love: Beautifully executed 18-carat pink gold case is as elegant as it comes! One of modern watchmaking’s great chronograph movements, showcased through a rich black and pink gold dial execution. Wears far better than the dimensions suggest. What We Don’t: Case thickness may be too large for some by modern standards. Dial layout may feel slightly imbalanced with integration of power-reserve indicator Traditional 2.5Hz beat rate may not appeal to those who prefer higher-frequency chronograph movements. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 There are very few brands in the world of watchmaking that can do what A. Lange & Söhne is capable of. The brand’s chronographs are also some of the most respected timepieces in the industry, carrying heritage, incredible craftsmanship, and painstaking assembly methods that place their movements among the best in the world. Fortunately for me, I had the chance to get up close and go hands-on with one of the brand’s signature chronographs: the Datograph Up/Down. One of the original 1999 A. Lange & Söhne Datograph models (Ref. 403.035) The Datograph was first introduced in 1999, and it quickly became one of the benchmark chronographs of modern watchmaking. Why did it rise to such a status so quickly? It was because of the model’s...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Notable Independents at Phillips Hong Kong
Phillips’ spring auction season wraps up with The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As is now the norm, independent watchmakers have carved out a significant section of the catalogue including the usual suspects from F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour, as well as rare showings from under-the-radar makers like Oscillon and Yosuke Sekiguchi. Lot 878 – Oscillon L’instant de Vérité Despite how hot the indie segment has become, Oscillon has largely stayed under the radar, perhaps due to its intensely cerebral nature, or because the brand only produces about five watches per year. The duo behind the brand, Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, are collectors of pre-computerised watchmaking machines. Their collection is so extensive that they can produce all movement parts – save for the jewels and shock protection – under their own roof using these machines. Even putting this context aside, the watches themselves are still mechanically interesting. The most striking detail is the bowtie-shaped balance, which is harder to poise and less aerodynamic than a conventional annular balance, but looks much cooler. L’instant de Vérité uses an unusual tensator constant-force spring. To explain this, consider a tape measure. The force required to pull more length from a tape measure doesn’t noticeably increase regardless of the length already paid out. Now imagine hooking the end of the tape to a pulley, so that turning the pulley (winding) pulls tape out, and ...
WatchAdvice
Does Cartier’s Tank Américaine Live Up To The Legacy? (Review)
The short answer: Yes! The Cartier Tank Américaine is a standout watch that looks and feels a lot more versatile than it lets on. Let’s find out why! What We Love: A versatile yet elegant design A sportier remix of a legendary icon Wears comfortably on the leather strap What We Don’t: Readability suffers in the first and third quarters The crown is small and fiddly Where’s the display caseback? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 I think that, since I began working at WatchAdvice, my opinion on Cartier has changed the least. I’d already heard so much about it from every corner of culture; rap songs and rom-coms sing equal praise of the Parisian powerhouse. So, when this opportunity came along, it simply allowed me to get closer to a brand I had already learned to appreciate. With closeness, though, comes closer scrutiny. Cartier bears the weight of a rich legacy on its shoulders, and even the smallest deviation can have Cartier fans questioning their loyalty. Its model lines, in both jewellery and watchmaking, have become so iconic that remixing them is a massive risk. Getting it wrong, depending on who you ask, is intolerable. These are the stakes Cartier faces with the Tank Américaine. How could they possibly change the formula of such a universally popular watch collection while preserving the original DNA? That’s what I aimed to find out when I took the Tank Américaine for a spin some time ago...
Video
Why Every Product Launch Needs a System
Does every release feel like starting from scratch? That’s because you don’t have a framework.
Worn & Wound
Anoma Debuts Two New References as Part of their Permanent Collection
Matteo Violet-Vianello founded Anoma back in 2024 with a crystal-clear concept that noticeably drew from the worlds of architecture and design as well as forms in nature. The brand’s debut offering set the tone for what has quickly become Anoma’s trademark: a triangular case. Those who follow the brand on Instagram well know that the brand’s cult following has become, dare I say obsessed with finding the soft, triangular form with rounded edges in the wild, citing pieces of furniture, buildings, river stones and other everyday objects that mimic the shape. From the get-go, Anoma has taken the approach of dropping limited edition collections rather than having a permanent catalog. The A1 First Series from 2024 was notable for its two-tone blue dial and was quickly followed up by two variations the following year: the A1 Slate offering a more neutral color palette and later the A1 Optical offered in two colorways – one monochromatic and the other two-tone – each highlighting a guilloche dial that has the unique and organic appearance of a fingerprint. Now, Anoma departs from its own tradition of highly limited executions, creating its first core collection. The new anchors for the brand include the A1 Abyss and A1 Stone. The pair very clearly echo models of the past with the Abyss giving us a twist on the First Series with a singular shade of blue that’s a bit lighter and brighter than the original two-tone. At first glance, this model appears simple, but there...
Fratello
Does The New Off-Catalog Rolesium Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Really Have A Grand Feu Enamel Dial?
There’s nothing like a bit of confusion when it comes to terminology used in the description of watches. There’s something better, however - confusion caused by Rolex watches. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, the dial of an exclusive offering caused a bit of a storm in the watch community because of the use of […] Visit Does The New Off-Catalog Rolesium Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Really Have A Grand Feu Enamel Dial? to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All Titanium, now as a Non-Limited Edition
While most attention in Porsche Design’s timekeeping history probably goes to the original 1972 all-black Chronograph 1 and its modern-day spin-offs, it’s far from all Porsche Design has done over the years. Released in 1972, the Chronograph 1 is still regarded as the cornerstone model for the brand, and as such is reinterpreted in a […]
Monochrome
Hands-on - The MB&F; LM101 EVO, the Compact Legacy Machine Designed as a Daily Driver
The Legacy Machine collection has always been MB&F;‘s most paradoxical line. Conceived as a tribute to 19th-century watchmaking, it features some of the most theatrical three-dimensional movements in contemporary horology. The LM101, introduced in 2014, was the most restrained expression of that idea. Smaller, thinner, and mechanically simpler than its siblings, it stripped the concept […]
Hodinkee
Business News: As China Retreats And The U.S. Wobbles, Is India The Next Great Hope For The Luxury Watch Market?
India is getting richer, and young consumers see mechanical watches as luxury items of status, desire, and self-expression.
Video
Your time is incorrect (kinda). Here's why
Call me stupid for not knowing but I always wondered: How does my phone know what time it is? What's the reference? How did we end up on agreeing on that reference time?? :-D
Worn & Wound
Fears and Ace Jewelers Release a Limited Edition Paying Tribute to the De Stijl Movement
Much like art cars, art watches are often divisive; those who favor function tend to dismiss them as wrist candy, while the stylish or art-forward tend to snap them up as fast as possible. So, when a microbrand with a reputation for both mechanical and design prowess decides to make an art watch-in this case, a watch inspired by a recognizable artist-it gets everyone a little giddy, and a little nervous. Enter the newest Fears and Ace Jewelers’ collaboration: the Brunswick 38 De Stijl Edition. Put forth as a partnership between Dutch artistry (as represented by the Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers) and British refinement (courtesy of Bristol’s own Fears), the De Stijl Edition is inspired by the Dutch artistic movement of the same name, and based on the Fears Brunswick 38 platform. The De Stijl movement was founded by Theo van Doesburg in the early twentieth-century, and its most well-known artist is Piet Mondriaan, whose work has clearly played a large role in the conception of the De Stijl Edition; more on that below. First, though, let’s take a look at the basics of the Brunswick 38. It features a 38mm stainless steel cushion case that Fears fans will recognize instantly, thanks to now-iconic design elements like the onion-shaped crown and lack of flat surfaces. Inside, a manual-winding La Joux-Perret D100 movement provides the mechanical heartbeat of the De Stijl, and ensures the level of functionality and refinement that enthusiasts have come to expect from Fea...
SJX Watches
A Haute Horlogerie Makeover for the Girard-Perregaux Laureato
Girard-Perregaux (GP) unveils the second chapter of the Laureato’s 50th anniversary with the Laureato Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon. First launched as part of the earlier generation Laureato in the 1990s, the tourbillon has been reimagined with a monochromatic palette in a limited edition of 50 pieces that evokes GP’s golden age as a modern-day manufacture. Initial thoughts Few tourbillon movements are as iconic as the GP Three Gold Bridges. The concept debuted in a tourbillon pocket watch in 1867 and the manufacture has since adopted the signature arrow-shaped bridge as its logo and even employed the motif in movements without a tourbillon. Fortunately, the new Laureato is very much a tourbillon; this combination of two icons should please both fans of the brand and enthusiasts alike. The GP9620 tourbillon movement is good example of high-quality, in-house watchmaking, and is evidently constructed and finished to a high standard. Derived from the GP9400 series of movements, the GP9620 features improved finishing and a new monochromatic palette. Remaining true to the original three bridges design, the proprietary calibre retains the visual identity of early GP pocket watch tourbillon movements, including the brand’s iconic tourbillon cage immortalised as its own design by Reinhard Meis in his book Das Tourbillon; very few brands have a tourbillon they can truly call their own. But the movement also incorporates modern amenities like automatic winding – thanks...
SJX Watches
Thirty Days with the Christopher Ward C12 Loco
‘Micro-brand’ watches are rarely about finishing or movement design. The business model employed by this segment of the industry typically involves off-the-shelf movements combined with made-to-order cases and dials; this is how Christopher Ward (CW) got started. But having merged with its movement supplier a decade ago, the brand has become more ambitious, first with the striking Bel Canto and again with the C12 Loco, which reimagines the Valjoux cal. 7750 as a budget-priced mechanical sculpture inside a sporty steel case. Architectural watchmaking is not new, but it is new at the price point targeted by CW, which recently moved into larger premises in Maidenhead about 30 minutes west of London. Having spent a month with the Loco, it’s worth looking at what they did, and how. Initial thoughts I find architectural watchmaking inherently appealing, and appreciate it when watchmakers and designers work in tandem to elevate mechanical components into miniature works of art. It can come across as gimmicky, but when done well it results in an enthralling and educational wearing experience. Given the steep development costs, this type watchmaking has long been the exclusive domain of high end brands like MB&F; and Ulysse Nardin. But CW has been moving in this direction since the launch of the Bel Canto, and the Loco, despite its relative simplicity, is a worthy follow-up to its striking sibling. Sitting within the Twelve collection, CW’s take on the integrated bracelet sp...
Time+Tide
We chat with Franck Muller CEO Nicholas Rudaz about playful design and haute horlogerie
Jamie caught up with the FM CEO in the brand's "palatial" new Sydney boutique.The post We chat with Franck Muller CEO Nicholas Rudaz about playful design and haute horlogerie appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches?
This week, on Fratello Talks, RJ, Thomas, and Nacho are asking the question: Does storytelling still sell watches? For decades, brands have built emotional bridges to their customers with tales of adventure, endurance, and achievement. Think of the watches strapped to astronauts on lunar missions, divers exploring the ocean’s depths, or pilots navigating across continents. […] Visit Fratello Talks: Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Owner’s Review: Evolving as a Collector with the Louis Erard Heritage
Watch collecting is filled with stories of love at first sight, which I guess makes sense considering the hobby revolves around looking at watches. Stare at enough stranger’s wrists, browse enough boutiques and partake in enough endless scrolling sessions, and it’s only a matter of time before cupid’s horological arrow strikes. If your watch consumption habits are as excessive as mine, you’ll likely be struck on a regular basis. Knowing when to embrace these moments through distant appreciation and when to splurge by breaking out the credit card is a balancing act that comes down to personal finances and individualized collecting goals. Have stacks of cash and enjoy rotating through dozens of watches? Sounds like a green light to hit that buy button whenever your heart desires. Writing monthly checks for your kid’s extra curricular activities that are high enough to make even your inflated grocery expenses blush? We have plenty of room for you in the strapped for cash parents club, where we maintain concise collections that prioritize frill free practicality over opulence. As a proud member and self-designated ambassador of the latter group, I’ve set a limit of $300 for individual purchases. Yes, it sounds low, and compared with most of the collectors that are likely to appear in your Instagram feed, it is. But armed with patience and a penchant for bargain hunting, it’s really not all that limiting and has allowed me to embrace love at first sight with two B...
Time+Tide
Destro watches - does crown position really matter?
Crowns on the left: cursed, cool or a concession for southpaws? Tom gets deep into destro watches.The post Destro watches – does crown position really matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Interview - Horologer MING’s Founder Ming Thein on The Past, Present and Future of an Unusual Watch Brand
In a world where the watch industry is often anchored in heritage and tradition, Horloger MING takes a refreshingly modern approach, melding unique aesthetics with a thoughtful design philosophy. At the heart of it all is Ming Thein, photographer, designer and engineer, whose vision has propelled the brand from a bold idea to a cult […]
Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners as Part of their Partnership with Alpine Motorsports, Including an Ana-Digi Smartwatch
Just when you thought watches associated with F1 teams were getting stale and predictable, here comes H. Moser with a release that I definitely did not have on my bingo card. There are actually two releases here, both introduced last week as part of the brand’s partnership with the Alpine Motorsports F1 team. Both part of the Streamliner family, one is a skeletonized chronograph (which is cool, but not exactly the most exotic thing in the indie watch world) and the other is…a smart watch. Yes, a Streamliner smart watch from the brand that started their recent rise to prominence by, basically, trolling the most popular wearable ever created. The loose concept here is that this pair of watches consists of a “Drivers Edition” Streamliner as well as a corresponding “Mechanics Edition.” We’ll start with the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition, a “measuring instrument” designed specifically for an F1 team and the highly specialized work they do to support their drivers. The watch does a nice job of evoking what we’ve come to know as the Moser aesthetic, with a blue lacquer dial for the time at 12:00, surrounded by black when the watch is on standby mode (Moser of course loves a deep and dark black). But that black negative space is actually a screen, and when digital functions are activated the watch effectively transforms into something we simply aren’t used to seeing from high end independent brands. The Mechanics Edition is powered by a movement made ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Ace Jewelers x Cedric Bellon CB01 Small Seconds
When is a watch more than a watch? It honestly sounds like a pretty dumb question, but it’s a question that I just asked myself when writing about the Cedric Bellon CB01 – a grade 5 titanium watch that’s just as much a watch as it is a case study in sustainability. I’ll admit, when I first laid eyes on the watch, I thought it looked very raw, almost unfinished. Upon closer inspection and a deeper dive into the brand itself, it started to click. The CB01 is a joint partnership between Watch Angels (a crowd funding platform), Ace Jewelers (an Amsterdam-based retailer) and Cedric Bellon (a watch designer) – by their powers combined, this watch is good for the planet! Captain Planet jokes aside, the CB01 is a 40mm titanium watch that features a mix of finishing techniques, an interesting movement, and very wrist-friendly dimensions. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at this collaboration that aims to bring sustainability to your wrist in a big way. Case Measuring in at 40mm wide by 47mm lug-to-lug, the CB01 is a nice fit for my 6.75” wrist. The case is crafted from repurposed titanium. At first, I thought that repurposed was synonymous with recycled, but it’s not. The core belief behind this watch design is that when possible, materials from other productions will be used for this project. So maybe there was too much material ordered for another project that can be used here, having the watch achieve a higher “circularity score”. The principle behind ci...
Worn & Wound
Nomos and Ace Jewelers Team Up for a Rare Metro Limited Edition
Neither Ace Jewelers or Nomos Glashütte are strangers to collaborations, especially with each other: the two companies have released a total of seven collaboration models so far. To celebrate the Amsterdam boutique’s 50th anniversary, they’ve teamed up once again with the German watchmaker to create two bold and bright new references in the Metro line. Interestingly, the Metro is one of Nomos’ least-riffed on designs-meaning that they’ve done the fewest amount of novelties and collaborations using the platform as compared to other watches in their catalog. This is partly because the Metro’s designer, Mark Braun, must explicitly approve any collaboration that uses the watch as a base, highlighting the pedigree of Ace Jewelers, and the gravitas of their 50th anniversary. The most obvious punch that both new Metro models carry is right there in the name: the vibrant orange color. As a diehard San Francisco Giants fan, I’m partial to the color, but it is a daring choice-most bright colors are rare in the 2020s, where finding a car that isn’t black, white, or gray is the new needle in the haystack. The Metro, then, is actually the perfect choice for such a colorway, as its design revels in clean, postmodern design, rather than aesthetic noise. Both Orange models feature round stainless steel bezel-less cases with a crown at 3 o’clock, and a DUW 3001 automatic movement with Nomos’ proprietary swing system and up to 43 hours of power reserve visible thr...
Time+Tide
Does the lack of dive watches at Watches & Wonders 2025 signal a drier future?
Despite being one of the most popular categories of watches, there weren't many new divers at Watches and Wonders. What gives?The post Does the lack of dive watches at Watches & Wonders 2025 signal a drier future? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.