Deployant
Rare Watches: Voyage to the bottom of the sea: Part 2: Rolex Deepsea Challenge
Rare hands-on session with the Rolex Deep Sea Challenge, the second watch ever to the dive to nearly 11km strapped to the outside of a submarine.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
31,903 articles · 176 videos found · page 7 of 1070
Deployant
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Armoury And Naoya Hida & Co. Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers"
What We Know Usually, we only get one round of Naoya Hida & Co. releases each year, as the company manufactures so few watches per year (though that number is increasing) that one round of releases of 10+ models with around 10 watches per model per year is about the maximum. So imagine my surprise when we got a press release about a new collaboration between Hida-san and his retailer, The Armoury, to be released after the initial wave of releases. They've collaborated before (their "Lettercutter" is one of Hida's most beloved watches). This new release, the Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers," is by far the most unusual and imaginative Naoya Hida watch yet. The watch uses a high-polish stainless steel Type 4 case (36mm by 42.9mm lug-to-lug, 11mm thick) with a central seconds hand, keeping the dial free for artistic expression. Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury, and designer Elliot Hammer say that they were inspired by decorative ornithological dials, botanical motifs, and nature scenes. As ornithology is the study of birds, my thought immediately went to "singing bird boxes," but hey, I didn't make the watch, so no one asked me. Hammer, who travels to Japan often, said he was taken by their attention to space and timelessness, and in the press release says, "if there are feathers, there must have also once been a bird." Rationale for the design aside, Naoya Hida & Co. has the benefit of a talented in-house engraver, Keisuke Kano, and used the bead-blasted Argentium silver di...
Fratello
Ressence Enters A Completely Different Ballgame With The New Type 11 And Its First Fully Integrated Movement
Most of you know the deal with Ressence watches by now. The highly original creations by Belgian designer Benoît Mintiens tell the time through an intuitive layout. The watches don’t use conventional hands; instead, they feature several eccentric satellites. Until now, the brand’s so-called Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) was always powered by a highly […] Visit Ressence Enters A Completely Different Ballgame With The New Type 11 And Its First Fully Integrated Movement to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The History of and Differences Between a Type A and Type B Pilot Watch Dials
The post The History of and Differences Between a Type A and Type B Pilot Watch Dials appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Ressence and Legendary Industrial Designer Mark Newson Team Up for the New Type 3 MN
It’s honestly a little hard to believe that Ressence and Mark Newson hadn’t collaborated until now. The new Type 3 MN, a limited edition version of Ressence’s oil filled watch designed by Newson, feels like a watch that was somehow inevitable. Ressence occupies a very specific niche in independent watchmaking – there is simply no other time telling system quite like the one they have pioneered, and it has a distinctive quality to it that is immediately recognizable. Newson’s design work is similarly well known, and while he’s worked across many industries over many years, watch lovers will quickly identify him as the creator of the Ikepod, a futuristic watch with an aggressively circular design that has influenced a variety of contemporary watches, especially those in the realm of independents. Ressence is chief among them, not necessarily because any particular Ressence looks like an Ikepod (although you can make a case) but because of the deliberate nature of each. The Type 3 MN is tough to discuss without mentioning Ikepod because the watch really looks like a modern extension of what that brand might have been if Newson had stuck around. The case has a curvy, pebble like quality to it for maximum ergonomics. The hands are lifted right from classic Ikepod designs, and the whole package has an organic quality to it that is a Newson design signature. Both Newson and Ressence founder Benoit Mintiens mention in the press materials for this release that the col...
Video
A First Look At The New Rolex Perpetual Padellone
Rolex has just unveiled the Perpetual Padellone, a modern reimagining of the legendary reference 8171 and one of the most unexpected releases from the Crown in years.
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - How Are Mechanical Watches Wound? A Comprehensive Guide to Automatic and Manual Movements
There are basically two types of watch movements – mechanical and quartz. The latter is powered by a battery or a combination of solar and rechargeable cells, while the former is powered by one or sometimes multiple mainsprings with no electrical input. There are also grey areas like Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive or Accutron’s Electrostatic […]
Worn & Wound
Ressence and The Armoury Team Up for the TYPE 9 Scattering Sun (Live Pics)
There’s something exciting about seeing two brands you admire collaborate, especially when those brands represent relatively different aesthetics, if shared sensibilities. So, when we heard that Ressence, the independent watch brand known for its unique ROCS dial displays and futuristic aesthetic, was teaming up with The Armoury, a traditional menswear retailer and tailor, our collective interest was piqued. And the result is, well, oddly exactly what one might expect: a more formal take on Ressence’s most wearable watch to date, the TYPE 9. Called the TYPE 9 Shattering Sun, it meets the two brands in the middle. The TYPE 9, which came out at the end of last year, is the smallest Ressence in diameter, and very thin at 39mm x 42.5mm x 11mm. Additionally, it’s one of the lightest at 39 grams for the head. Unlike other Ressences, it pushed the minute index from under the glass to an external bezel, which further compresses it visually. I reviewed that watch earlier this year and was taken with its wearability. It puts the unique aesthetic and dial display Ressence is known for into a form that would be easy to wear daily. Identifying this, the ever sartorially-savvy and horologically inclined Mark Cho, founder of The Armoury, took the TYPE 9 and remixed it to lean toward dress watch aesthetics, and, more importantly, work with a suit. The dial, originally in silver or teal, has been rendered in warm, copper-toned salmon with a subtle sandblast finish. The explorer-esque...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Volan Type One Tyre And Wheel Watches
Do you remember tyre watches? I had completely forgotten all about them until the founder and owner of Volan, Diederik van Golen, visited our Fratello office a year ago. Being a boat and car guy, he devised a modern interpretation of the tyre watch concept. These were only drawings back then, but they looked great. […] Visit Hands-On With The Volan Type One Tyre And Wheel Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The 2025 Benrus Type 1 MilSpec, a Tough and Purposeful Combat Tool
Benrus is one of the few American watch companies with a claim to fame for practical, no-nonsense timepieces. Founded in 1921 by the Lazrus brothers, Benjamin, Oscar, and Ralph, the company combined Swiss precision with American assembly and marketing to carve out a spot in watchmaking history. Starting in New York City, the brothers pooled […]
Worn & Wound
The New Type 9 is the Smallest and Most Affordable Ressence Yet
A few weeks ago we told you about the Ressence Type 8 Indigo, a high craft variation on the most simple and accessible Ressence model. It turns out that the Type 8 only held the distinction of being the brand’s entry level timepiece for a few days after the launch of the Indigo, as the new Type 9 which the brand debuted mere hours later now represents the cleanest point of entry to the brand. The Type 9 has much of the same minimalist appeal as the Type 8 (the display is as straightforward as Ressence gets and not materially different from the Type 8) but the new watch offers a significant change to the case, and should give enthusiasts and collectors with a smaller wrist something to consider if they’ve ever balked at a Ressence for being a little too big. This is the smallest Ressence yet, coming in at 39mm in diameter in titanium. Unlike the Type 8, a 43mm watch with a flying saucer like shape, the Type 9 is more traditional and has small, short lugs to which a strap is mounted at either end of the case. The real space saving here comes from the addition of a bezel which acts as a minute track, whereas in other Ressence designs the outer minute track is simply at the dial’s perimeter. This tightens things up considerably, and also, in my opinion, offers a little more visual interest. With the minute track now outboard of the dial, options begin to open up with respect to finishing, color, materials, and so forth. The execution here isn’t particularly adventuro...
Video
IWC's biggest failure!
Hands-on with the new 2026 IWC Ingenieur 50th Anniversary Automatic 40 and Automatic 35.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 Vs. Blancpain Air Command In Titanium And Green
It’s Sunday morning, so we have a new Sunday Morning Showdown lined up for you! This week, Daan and Jorg face off for this battle between high-end pilot’s watches that you, the Fratelli, requested. The first is the new green-dial titanium Blancpain Air Command that came out not too long ago. It’s going up against […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 Vs. Blancpain Air Command In Titanium And Green to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Chronograph: Deep Blue and Secret Alloy
Czapek developed a new guilloché pattern called "Crossroads," which features straighter, widely spaced lines reminiscent of tire treads. And they are featured to full effect in the Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads chronographs.
Fratello
Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared
Believe it or not, it has already been 11 years since Ressence introduced its oil-filled Type 3. At the time, it was the first oil-filled mechanical watch, and it debuted in both white- and black-dial versions. Today, the Belgian brand led by designer Benoît Mintiens reintroduces the black and white Type 3 with a few […] Visit Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Type XX in Rose Gold and Ceramic
Having launched the latest-generation Type XX last year, Breguet is adding to the family with the Type XX Chronograph 2067 in rose gold, a new take on the “civilian” aviator’s chronograph. Inspired by a historical design, the latest Type XX features the a 12-hour bezel and three registers, along with a sophisticated, high-frequency chronograph movement. The cal. 728 Initial thoughts While the new Type XX is described by Breguet as being inspired by the vintage Type XX no. 1780 – one of just three vintage Type 20s in gold – it is an entirely modern watch in look and feel. The vintage inspiration is visible, but the colours, materials, and finishing bestow a polished, modern look, which is a good thing. This contrasts with last year’s Type XX in steel that tried too hard to look vintage with faux-aged lume and lance-shaped hands, which was at odds with the overall look and feel. The new Type XX, on the other hand, looks coherently contemporary. With a dial and hands resembling that of the 1990s-era Type XX, the new chronograph also looks more proportional and balanced, though it retains the same dimensions as last year’s model. Interestingly, though the new Type XX has the date window in exactly the same place as last year’s watch, the date does not look as obvious here. Priced at US$37,900, the new Type XX 2067 is more affordable than the competition. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph in pink gold, for example, retails for US$49,700. Admittedly, t...
Quill & Pad
Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair: A Party with Benefits, plus a Typhoon!
Unlike the niche-like fairs in Geneva, the Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair (HKCWF) located in the world’s second largest watch exporter after Switzerland, drives the energy to the next level. It focuses not only on watches of all types, from mechanicals to smart, but also on components, fashion, trade and commerce. Marton Radkai reports his impressions of the fair.
Video
Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò | Hands On Review
Atelier Wen’s latest Inflection, the Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò, brings Massena LAB into the fold for a study in Chinese design, Swiss handcraft and one especially stubborn metal. The two companies f...
Fratello
A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom
After talking to Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, the two co-founders of the watch brand Armin Strom, it became apparent that they do things differently at their manufacture in the Swiss watchmaking town of Biel/Bienne. Ask them anything, and the two childhood friends who started a watch brand inspired by the open-worked creations of famous […] Visit A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Difference Between Type A and Type B Pilot Watch Dials
The post The Difference Between Type A and Type B Pilot Watch Dials appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Airain and Seconde/Seconde/ Team Up for a Surprisingly Whimsical Take on the Type 20
Montres Airain began in 1934 and quickly became well known for producing reliable, high-quality timepieces. During the 1950s and 1960s, they were among the chosen suppliers of the Type 20 Chronograph for the French Army, alongside Breguet and Dodane. In 2020, Airain was revived after being purchased from a French entrepreneur and watch enthusiast. The brand has been thriving ever since with a string of aviation inspired releases, starting with their new version of the highly sought-after “Type 20” Flyback Chronograph. New for 2024, in a surprise collaboration, Airain has teamed up seconde/seconde/ to add a touch of whimsy to the austere Type 20 design. The new Airain Type 20 x seconde/seconde/ “Up in the Air” limited edition is based on the original Flyback Chronograph design. Romaric André, the designer otherwise known as seconde/seconde/, envisioned bringing back this iconic piece to its rightful place in the sky and in France. Hence, the subdials create the illusion of airplane portholes looking out on pixelated 8-bit clouds, with the left subdial offering a glimpse of the tip of the Eiffel Tower. He explains his intentions on the case back, and the inclusion of the Eiffel Tower serves as a reminder of the watch’s heritage and its connection to French aviation. This flyback chronograph’s stainless steel case measures 39mm in diameter (39.5mm across the bezel), 14.77mm to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal, and 47.7mm from lug tip to lug tip. The c...
SJX Watches
Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy
Every mechanical watch employs at least one mainspring barrel as its energy source. When a watch is wound, the coils of the mainspring tighten, storing potential energy which is then slowly released through the gear train to the escapement. The mainspring is enclosed in a toothed barrel, essentially a drum covered by gear teeth. As a result the barrel is often considered to be the first wheel of the going train. Although one is the norm, two or even more barrels can be employed, typically to generate more energy. Double barrel movements usually feature two mainsprings kinematically linked in one of two ways: in parallel or in series. The number of mainsprings, energy stored, and power reserve are illustrated with equations (1), (2), and (3): As described by equation (1), the energy of a single barrel E is a function of its torque, angular discharge velocity and running time (autonomy). Linking two identical barrels naturally means having twice the energy, so 2E. By convenient association, equation (2) exploits the available energy to double the torque sent to the gear train, while equation (3) takes advantage of the total energy by doubling the running time. Parallel barrels The parallel arrangement of barrels embodies equation (2), which delivers twice the torque, increasing the energy available to run the movement (but not increasing the running time). Here two barrels unwind at the same time on a centre pinion connected to a second mobile of the going train. An embo...
Time+Tide
How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive
Watches and military history have an unbreakable bond. You only need to think back to the very beginnings of the wristwatch as a tool. During the Anglo-Burma War and First Boer War, soldiers began to strap pocket watch cases with primitive soldered lugs to their wrists, which opened the door for a new market. Fast-forward … ContinuedThe post How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
The Cartier Tank is TRASH? - Dress Watch Tier List #Cartier #patekphillipe #vacheronconstantin
In this tier list I rank different dress watches from brands like Cartier, Omega and Patek Philippe on the scale of Trash to Must Have. Ranging budget pieces like the Orient Bambino to higher end luxury pieces such as...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Getting Shifty with the 2024 Acura Integra Type S, The Slick and Affordable FALCAM Maglink Camera Strap, New LEGO Technic Model Worthy of Le Mans, & Playing with FYRE All Over Again
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Acura The 2024 Acura Integra Type S Lives Up To The Shifty Hatchback’s Name Via Car and Driver When Acura came bursting onto the automotive scene in 1986, it did so by simultaneously debuting the Integra, a shifty compact hatchback highlighted by its athletic styling and signature pop-up headlight design. Most of us in the office and car enthusiasts alike however, can specifically identify with a particular Integra, one that ushered in a new era of performance in ’97 with the third-generation of their sports hatchback and a cult-classic; the Integra Type-R. The Type-R would go on to create its own legend, dominating the podiums time and time again at the SCCA World Challenge Touring Car Championship. Via Car and Driver When Acura reintroduced the Acura Integra this year, it fell hard and flat amongst the enthusiast crowd. A common problem nowadays with all automotive brands reviving older models, the new base model Integra looked like your average sedan on the road and was absent of any wow-factor when it came to its performance and aesthetic. That’s not the...
Hodinkee
Hey, HODINKEE!: Odd Vs. Even (Lug Widths), Pilot Vs. Field, Mainsprings Vs. Time, And Co-Branding Vs. Everybody
"We have met the enemy and he is us." -Walt Kelly, Pogo
Hodinkee
Type Casting: Comparing The Breguet Type XX And Type XXI Chronographs
The Type XX and Type XXI chronographs don’t seem to get quite as much attention as you would think they’d get, at least in the USA, where the world of pilot’s chronographs skews much more heavily towards companies like IWC, Omega, and Breitling. Maybe part of the reason for that is that when you think of tool watches, you might think of an awful lot of companies but Breguet just isn’t one of them – tourbillons, certainly, and a history of making aesthetically irreproachable, often complicated, and very elegant watches from the end of the 18th century right down until the present day, but not tool watches as such. And yet, aviation is perhaps just as important a part of the Breguet family’s history as watchmaking, with the Type XX and XXI chronographs representing one of the most important aspects of the inventiveness that characterized Abraham Louis Breguet and his descendants.
Time+Tide
Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking?
Whether it’s a bespoke luxury piece, a tough tool watch or even a daily diver, stainless steel is still watchmaking’s primary material of choice. Yet while 316L grade steel is increasingly used by a number of brands, there are, in fact, better, smoother and harder alternatives for watchmaking. Is there such a thing a precious … ContinuedThe post Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Camera Review: Leica SL Type 601 and lenses
Photographing your watch is perhaps as essential a hobby as collecting them. We review the Leica SL Type 601 and principally the 60mm TL Macro.
Video
EXCLUSIVE: The NEW Rolex Perpetual Padellone, With Annual Calendar & Dynapulse Escapement!
Rolex brings back an iconic watch from the late 1940s with the introduction of the new Perpetual Padellone. It brings together a classic annual calendar display and the revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, as first see...