Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
Vacheron gives us a look at what it takes to stand out amongst open-dialed watches
767 articles · 25 videos found · page 7 of 27
Hodinkee
Vacheron gives us a look at what it takes to stand out amongst open-dialed watches
Worn & Wound
Last year’s big release from Vacheron Constantin, the reintroduction of the legendary 222, sparked all kinds of speculation that we’d get another variant of that sports watch at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Maybe one in steel? Or with new complications? As it turns out, we didn’t get a 222 of any kind this year, but VC paid respect to its contemporary integrated bracelet sports watch, a watch whose lineage can be traced back directly to the 222, by adding a complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, a retrograde date display. It’s a first for the Overseas collection, which is itself kind of surprising. It’s one of those watches you can’t quite believe didn’t exist before now, and now that it’s here, it feels that much more well integrated with the rest of the collection. The new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date features the same 41mm steel case profile that the brand has been using since the collection was relaunched in 2016. The Overseas, while pre-dating the hysteria for integrated bracelet sports watches by many years (the line was introduced in 1996) was part of a later group of integrated bracelet watches to really catch fire with collectors in the recent boom, following the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but ahead of watches like the newer Alpine Eagle from Chopard. It has a character that is distinct from its competitors, and is uniquely Vacheron, dominated by a complex notched bezel and less intense case geometry. The Overseas, mo...
Revolution
Quill & Pad
The Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon concept is based on the concept of a black hole, a region of spacetime where gravity is so strong that nothing can escape, even light. While that and the levitating flying tourbillon that emerges from the center of this watch might be enough to wow anyone, there's still more: a joystick that controls the direction of time and this watch's great looks.
Revolution
Revolution
Quill & Pad
GaryG was invited to Los Angeles for the opening of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rodeo Drive boutique and was a promised “special surprise” that turned out to be a lovely exhibit of heritage pieces drawn from the brand’s vault. Here he shares his experiences of the event and the watches.
SJX Watches
Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition is characterised by its inverted movement that reveals most of the movement on the dial. It was a modern concept inspired by the 19th century: the movement was inspired by the souscription pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since its launch the Tradition has grown into a full-fledged collection ranging from time-only models to the top-of-the-line tourbillon with fusee-and-chain. One of the simplest, yet most striking, is the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, which has been given a new look with an attractive blue dial. Initial thoughts I have always found the Tradition attractive, particularly the early models with smaller case sizes that tend to work better with in traditional palettes like yellow gold or “pink-on-pink”. The newer models are more sophisticated mechanically, but their cases are larger while the colours are mostly modern in greys and blacks, so the retro-elegance is absent. But the latest Quantième Rétrograde is amongst the best looking Tradition models in the current catalogue. It’s mechanically identical to the original introduced in 2020, but now it gets a two-tone dial that has more contrast, giving it with a stronger character and easily setting it apart from the more classical Tradition models. The date indicator makes a 180 degree jump at the end of each month The blue-on-grey livery isn’t novel, since it was used before on the boutique edition Tradition 7097, a simpler watch tha...
Hodinkee
Where Arthurian legends meet "Hyper Horology."
Hodinkee
Let your ébauche freak flag fly.
Hodinkee
Jack Forster will try to tell you otherwise and – well – he's just plain wrong.
The essence of Breguet's souscription timepieces, captured in a wristwatch.
Deployant
We pick 6 watches with moonphases to romance the full moon today, and in preparation for the Mid-Autumn Festival in a month.
Deployant
F.P. Journe surprises us in his submission for Only Watch 2021 with an original idea to show time from Francis Ford Coppola.
Hodinkee
Bulgari jumps back into the arena with a new Genta design.
The Tradition Collection's newest member offers a date complication with a twist.
Hodinkee
Toe to tip platinum. Even the stitching.
A complicated Portugieser is the new home for IWC's caliber 89900.
Quill & Pad
A visit to Texas offered Elizabeth Doerr a surprise: she came across a very large painting simply entitled 'Watch' at the Dallas Museum of Art. Further inquiry into its painter, Gerald Murphy, revealed a fun historical anecdote and a bit of a mystery. Why did Murphy paint a giant Cubist impression of two watches in 1925, and which watches were they?
Hodinkee
A serpentine take on the passage of time.
Deployant
For the 20th Anniversary of the Chronomètre à Résonance, F.P.Journe introduces a version that will be produced only during the year 2019.
A unique piece from Glashütte brand Moritz Grossmann showcases its mechanical legitimacy and the artistry of a pure skeletonized movement.
Revolution
Revolution
Revolution
Breguet’s claims to fame are many, to put it mildly –his list of firsts, and improvements on the designs of others, is one of the longest in the entire history of horology (his work on and experiments with escapements alone would keep a bevy of grad students in horological history busy for years, if there […]
Deployant
Ressence is one of the new brands who seem to have sprouted out of nowhere with innovation burtsting from their ears. Their concept of a watch with wandering dials suspended in a fluid that refracts light like the air, so the orbiting indications appear to be on the crystal. As usual, technical information, and theRead More
Time+Tide
In a recent opinion piece, I extolled one of the central virtues of a modern luxury watch as being its viability for multi-generational use. But that is to presume the owner is going to be diligent with maintaining it. So, what’s the worst thing that can happen if you don’t service your watch? I asked … ContinuedThe post Watchmakers answer 7 tough questions about watch servicing, and dispel some common myths in the process appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Vladimir Négault, founder of Ataelier Haute Complication, a relatively new independent watchmaker based in Geneva who is making some of the most interesting and inventive watches Ian Skellern has ever seen.
Monochrome
When Breva returned in 2025, it did so with the Segreto di Lario, a watch that marked a reset for the brand after years of silence. Instead of earlier niche complications like barometers or altimeters, this new collection focused on a more legible, instrument-style display built around retrograde indications. That first model set the tone […]
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton sharpens its haute horlogerie credentials with the Escale Minute Repeater, a chiming complication paired with a jump hour and retrograde minutes display. Built around La Fabrique du Temps’s proven minute repeater calibre, the watch trades the previous Escale minute repeater’s world time function for a cleaner, more focused dial dominated by grey flammé guilloché. The result puts Louis Vuitton in direct competition with established players in complicated watchmaking, and comes complete with a discreet repeater slide hidden within the signature trunk-inspired lugs. Initial thoughts On the back of a strong 2025, Louis Vuittion doubles down on haute horlogerie, now in a more traditional case than last year’s Tambour. While the brand still offers the quartz Tambour Street Diver for just a few thousand dollars, Louis Vuittion’s ambitions clearly lie in the high-end. After years of strategic acquisitions and investments, the brand has the industrial base to compete and the know-how to do things its own way. The Escale Minute Repeater is the embodiment of Louis Vuitton’s ambitions, and is competitive with other minute repeaters from established haute horlogerie brands thanks to its modern movement and tasteful details. In short, it shows the brand understands the tastes of the day, and, more importantly, how to deliver a compelling package that leans into Louis Vuitton’s unique legacy and brand DNA. Furthermore, the minute repeater is something of a s...
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.