318 articles · 9 videos found · page 7 of 11
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre's competition i.e., Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet have surged in recent years. They are now all well-recognized brands in broader society, whereas the love for JLC is reserved for true enthusiasts. Raman Kalra explains why.
Worn & Wound
Search for “vintage watch” on Kickstarter and you’ll be met with page after page of watches that seek to capture the charm of watches from decades past. Some will be near-replicas that look more like carbon copies than modern interpretations. Others will find a balance of paying homage to iconic designs while still maintaining an air of originality. While the approaches vary, vintage inspired designs remain pervasive – they’re just about everywhere. Last year, Toronto based Fleux joined the ranks of brands crowdfunding their vintage inspired freshman releases with the FLX001 and FLX002– taking the amalgamation route by drawing inspiration from a variety of classic skin divers. The FLX001 featured chunky lume plots and a blocky orange hour hand that brought to mind images of Squale and Vulcain. The FLX002 featured a California dial, a layout of half Roman and half Arabic numerals that was popularized by brands like Rolex and Panerai. Changing gears to pay homage to a single watch rather than a genre, the FLX003 unapologetically draws its inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle- also known as the “Big T”. The Watch Lets address the elephant in the room: When considering a $500 NH38 powered Omega inspired dive watch, it’s fair to ask how it differs from the other Omega-inspired designs on the market. Afterall, a 200 meter, Seiko powered watch from Pagani Design can be yours for about $100. I’ve personally owned (and worn with pride) many of t...
Quill & Pad
What if you were given £10,000/$13,00 to spend on creating a new collection? With a hypothetical wish list, what would you buy? Raman Kalra shares his suggestions and why.
Fratello
Watch brands are on a high-paced treadmill to constantly release new watches. In fact, most brands release several new models every single year. Why? “To remain relevant” is an often-heard explanation. Or it could be to provide a constant stimulus to drive sales. Could this be why most new watches receive lukewarm responses from the […] Visit Can We Even Be Pleasantly Surprised By New Watches Anymore? to read the full article.
Monochrome
British brand Farer has introduced three updated field watches that are sequels to the original trio from 2021. The names are the same, albeit now with a Roman numeral II, but most things have otherwise changed. The overall vibe is still familiar if you know the collection, although the case, bracelet and dials have received […]
Quill & Pad
It is the old age question - Rolex vs. Omega. Which brand should I buy from? Which brand produces better watches? Should I buy an Omega Seamaster Professional 300M or Rolex Submariner? Through their histories, the two brands have been going head-to-head whether it's on design or technology. Raman Kalra explores how Omega compares to Rolex.
Monochrome
Why so serious…? This was somehow the idea Richard Benc had in mind when he decided, in 2020, to create his watch brand, Studio Underd0g. From there, the brand managed to gather the attention of watch enthusiasts with its fun, colourful watches at accessible prices – think about an April Fool’s joke becoming a reality, […]
Monochrome
The everyday watch… The go-anywhere-do-anything watch… The allrounder… The one-watch collection… A key player for brands that want to widen their audience, and yet a highly complex topic. A company specialising in pilot chronographs, Hanhart has shown consistency in recent years with superbly designed models inspired by the past and fair prices to remain competitive […]
Fratello
While the 44GS might be Grand Seiko’s most famous model, another impressive watch came out just one year later. Aptly named the 45GS, this was a high-beat hand-wound watch in a similar design. Now Grand Seiko is reviving that model with the new SLGW004 and SLGW005. Grand Seiko opted to remain faithful to the original, […] Visit The Return Of The 45GS With The New Grand Seiko SLGW004 And SLGW005 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Not many brands have the same depth of history as Breguet. It is one of the oldest watchmaking brands surviving today, established in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Raman Kalra reflects on why the brand hasn't kept up with its peers and what they can do to bounce back.
Fratello
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! If you’re listening to this latest episode on the day of its release, then Geneva Watch Days 2024 is just a week away. Today, Nacho, Lex, and Thomas gather around the mics to discuss the event and make some wishes and predictions about what they’d like to see from […] Visit Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Wishes And Predictions to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
In recent years, several factors have come together resulting in the exponential rise of microbrand watches. This new microbrand wave is one of the biggest developments in the broader watch market. I would mention here that not all microbrands are equal. There are many watches out there that, to be honest, are not worth your time. However, some microbrands are getting it right as Raman Kalra highlights here.
Quill & Pad
Not everyone wants to own an iconic watch. Some want to stand out for their individuality or even go under the radar. Ramon Kalra shares his thoughts on collections from some of the largest watch brands that he doesn't feel get as much attention as they deserve.
SJX Watches
Mechanical escapements remain the most fascinating and enticing field of horological study even in the 21st century. At its core, an escapement has a simple purpose: restore lost energy to the oscillating organ while regulating the discharge speed of the going train – thus allowing for time measurement. Straightforward as the concept is, executing an escapement well is a completely different affair. The escapement is perhaps the element of the mechanical movement that has undergone the most iterations since its invention. The reason is simple: escapements were, and remain, imperfect systems. In fact, the escapement is often the least efficient aspect of a mechanical movement in terms of energy transfer. That’s why watchmakers and engineers have devised innumerable variants in the search of the ideal escapement. Explaining escapement efficiency In physics the efficiency of a system is the proportion of useful work done relative to the total work done by said system. The result, measured as a percentage, speaks to the energy conserved within the system. For example, an 80% efficiency means that 20% of the total available energy is lost, with the remaining 80% usefully conserved. That said, an efficient escapement isn’t necessarily chronometrically-potent, since there are more criteria, apart from energy conservation, which reflect in a movement’s accuracy. The way in which escapement parts impulse to the balance, the proximity of the equilibrium point and the deg...
Teddy Baldassarre
Annual calendar watches have been on the scene for a while now, though they remain a somewhat niche area of horological interest - not as revered as lofty complications like the perpetual calendar and minute repeater but also not as obsessed over as more down-to-earth mechanisms like chronographs and GMTs. And yet, the annual calendar offers not only one of the most practical functions for an everyday wearer, but has also proven to be a canvas for some truly engaging designs. As per its name, an annual calendar displays the day, date, and month and need only be manually adjusted by its wearer once per year, at the end of February. Patek Philippe's Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar introduced in 2023 Most of the wristwatch complications we’re familiar with are relatively ancient in origin, and almost all of them old enough to have debuted in pocketwatches rather than wristwatches. The first wristwatch chronograph, made by Longines, appeared in 1913; the first minute repeater for the wrist goes all the way back to 1892, invented by Louis Brandt, founder of Omega; and the first wrist-borne perpetual calendar made its debut in 1925, engineered by none other than Patek Philippe, which had actually invented the compact-sized movement for it as early as 1889, using it at the time in a ladies’ pendant watch. The annual calendar, by contrast, even though it might seem to today’s enthusiasts to be a fixture among luxury watch complications, is much younger, tracing its origin st...
Fratello
I sat on a stool in a Brooklyn dive bar on a rainy Wednesday evening, sipping a Negroni. Two of my friends were with me as we just had dinner a few hours earlier in a nearby restaurant. We were chatting, enjoying our drinks, and eagerly waiting for someone (who shall remain nameless) to pull […] Visit Hands-On With The Tuul Filthy 13 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Nearly thirty years later, some things have changed for the Royal Oak Grand Comps, and many things remain the same. But you can count on one thing: they're ridiculous in the best way.
Quill & Pad
The Rolex Air-King has in the Rolex lineup since 1945, but the most significant change to the watch came in 2016 with the release of ref. 116900. The Air-King divides opinions, and Raman Kalra is one of those that doesn’t understand it. Here’s why.
Quill & Pad
When collectors gather anywhere and talk about their collections, recent purchases, and executed or potential sales, there’s a term that comes up more often than not: “getting hurt.” Here GaryG provides a masterclass in how not to get hurt in the world of watch collecting.
Quill & Pad
Breitling needs no introduction. Just on hearing the name you can already picture their watches. But the brand was in trouble and Georges Kern has appeared to turn it around. Raman Kalra explains how.
Fratello
Welcome to the latest episode of Fratello Talks. This week, Nacho is joined by RJ and Lex to discuss their thoughts on a hype-hungry watch industry. Lately, more than ever before, it seems that big brands within the watch industry are doing their best to remain relevant by chasing hype. We saw the natural hype […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Quest For Relevance In A Hype-Hungry Watch Industry to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The Roman jeweler proves just why the Serpenti will always be the perfect "Women's" watch.
SJX Watches
A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals. Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design. The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...
SJX Watches
A bestseller thanks to its integrated-bracelet design and accessible price, the Tissot PRX now gets more new dial options, including a “light green” hue for the time-only PRX Powermatic 80 and a “graded” green for the PRX Chronograph. The new green dials join the recent blue dial options and more compact 35mm model. Initial thoughts The new models are only cosmetic updates, but are otherwise the same. The brushed steel cases and ETA movements remain unchanged. So do the respective prices, making them the same value propositions as before. Notably, the chronograph dial gets a more substantive cosmetic upgrade beyond the colour. It now sports the waffle-patterned dial previously found only on the PRX time-only models. This is an attractive upgrade that imbues the model with a sportier aesthetic. New dial options The Powermatic 80’s dial features the same waffle pattern found in past models, but now finished in a “light” green hue that first seen on the quartz version released in 2021. The chronograph dial is presented in a darker shade of green with a gradient finish. It also gains the same stamped pattern found on the time-only model. This marks a departure from previous iterations of the chronograph, which were characterised by a vertically brushed finish with a two-colour scheme. Both watches retain the same case dimensions and movements found on earlier models. The three-hander is powered by the Powermatic 80.111, derived from the ETA C07.111. Tissot has e...
Quill & Pad
Raman Kalra thinks that the Tudor Ranger might be the most interesting of the latest releases by Tudor, as it is a whole new model release. But as he points out, it does have issues he would like to see resolved.
Monochrome
Watch clubs are burgeoning worldwide to gather enthusiasts around a single passion: their appreciation of beautiful timepieces. We’ve seen this in all regions, such as, for instance, the Emirates Watch Club founded by Malek bin Easa. Travelling further East is the Singapore Watch Club, which was founded in 2015 and has been gathering collectors and […]
Fratello
The Watch Collectors’ Club allows connoisseurs and enthusiasts to gather for watch-related events. You may have heard of similar watch groups, such as the long-running RedBar chapters or Time4APint in London. Where The Watch Collectors’ Club differs is going that extra mile for bespoke events and tailored experiences. Unlike RedBar, The Watch Collectors’ Club uses […] Visit Getting To Know The Watch Collectors’ Club to read the full article.
Fratello
We have added several new items to the Fratello Shop in the past few weeks, so it’s time for an update! We’re happy to present new strap variations, watch rolls, watch pouches, and the official #SpeedyTuesday caps in three colorways. Atelier Romane × Fratello Pouches For those who travel with more than one watch or […] Visit New In The Fratello Shop - Apparel, Straps, Watch Rolls, And Pouches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...
Monochrome
Rolex is broadening its higher-end collection with the addition to the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 collection of an ombré slate dial within the line-up (understand a gradient toned dial). Notably, Rolex ombré dials were previously exclusive to the Day-Date 36. This new reference introduces another first: faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and index hour markers in […]
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