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Results for Urwerk

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Urwerk Introduces the UR-220 “Falcon Project” SJX Watches
Zenith Elite calibre Sep 15, 2020

Urwerk Introduces the UR-220 “Falcon Project”

Urwerk has just revealed the next generation of its flagship wristwatch – the UR-220 “Falcon Project”. Retaining the same case shape and signature satellite-cube hour display as its predecessor, the UR-210, the “Falcon Project” is nonetheless an entirely different watch. The UR-220 is powered by a newly-developed movement that hand-wound, instead of automatic as before, and in a first for the brand, the case is made of carbon composite, matched with a rubber-carbon composite strap. Initial thoughts A landmark in avant-garde independent watchmaking for its three-dimensional wandering hours, the UR-201 evolved into the UR-203 and then the UR-210. The new UR-220 is an incremental improvement in the same vein, though a substantial one. I had hoped for a brand-new time display to succeed the satellite-cube indicator, but that is perhaps something for the distant future. Even though the UR-220 retains the same general aesthetic on the front, it is fundamentally different mechanically. The movement has been substantially reengineered – the base remains the Zenith Elite calibre in the UR-210 but now minus automatic mechanism – and now incorporates new functions like the cylindrical service indicator. It also sees the addition of a split power-reserve display, which Urwerk says was a complex mechanism requiring 83 parts. While that may be true, it feels unnecessary, except to give the face a symmetrical layout. But one of the most significant changes is the case mate...

Recommended Watching: The Life and Work of Rexhep Rexhepi SJX Watches
Urwerk May 6, 2020

Recommended Watching: The Life and Work of Rexhep Rexhepi

Thirty-three year old Rexhep Rexhepi is a rising star in independent watchmaking who practices his craft from a workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. But he was born almost a continent away in Kosovo, having left his birthplace as a young teenager as a consequence of the Yugoslav Wars. The Singapore-based retailer of Rexhep’s brand, Akrivia, recently debuted a documentary on Rexhep’s life and work. It’s the latest instalment in The Lives of Artists, a series of short films on a handful of notable watchmakers and creative personalities. Other subjects of the film series include contemporary artist Daniel Arsham, architect Sir David Adjaye, as well as Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei of Urwerk. The subsequent instalments will debut one a week until mid-June 2020. You can watch Rexhep’s film below, while the other films can be in the The Lives of Artists playlist.  

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100 Gold Edition SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces May 4, 2020

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100 Gold Edition

Returning to a metal it has not used in a long time, Urwerk debuts the UR-100 Gold Edition in 18k yellow gold. It’s a limited edition of just 25 watches, with the first watch slated to be sold to benefit medical research in an online auction. The Gold Edition is the fourth iteration of the brand’s entry-level watch, which was previously available only in steel. Because of the case material, the Gold Edition is more costly, but by a reasonable margin, than the earlier steel versions. Initial thoughts Though Urwerk watches make the most sense in steel or titanium – those materials match the sci-fi style and mechanics – they have the most appealing tangible feel in precious metal. And brushed yellow gold has a restrained-but-luxe look that I like, though I would worry about it being quite easily scuffed. The downside of an Urwerk watch in gold or platinum is typically weight, and the resulting poor ergonomics. But as the UR-100 is one of the smallest, and definitely the slimmest, Urwerk watches to date, it is likely the most wearable gold Urwerk to date. Importantly, it’s priced at about 20% over the steel version, or 10,000 Swiss francs, which is reasonable as such things go. The Gold Edition is worth the stretch, assuming you can live with the less-robust case material. 2N gold The gold case is finished with a pronounced brushed finish, with the edges framed by polished bevels, resulting in a soft sheen that goes with the pale colour of the alloy – 2N gold accor...

Urwerk And The Gustave Sandoz Clock That Doesn’t Tell The Time - Reprise Quill & Pad
Urwerk Apr 26, 2020

Urwerk And The Gustave Sandoz Clock That Doesn’t Tell The Time - Reprise

In Einstein's Special Theory of Relativity, the great man introduced the concept of "spacetime: henceforth, space by itself, and time by itself, are doomed to fade away into mere shadows, and only a kind of union of the two will preserve an independent reality." Which segues nicely into the discovery of a clock by Gustave Sandoz that doesn't tell the time: it tells distance.

Urwerk Introduces the UR-111C Two-Tone SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 4, 2020

Urwerk Introduces the UR-111C Two-Tone

Two years ago, Urwerk unveiled the UR-111C, inspired by the UR-CC1 King Cobra of 2009, which was itself based on an experimental watch built by watchmaker Louis Cottier and jeweller Gilbert Albert for Patek Philippe in 1959. Displaying the time in a linear fashion, the UR-111C marked a departure from the wandering-hour satellite indication that has become the hallmark of Urwerk’s aggressively futuristic watches. Having already presented four variants of the watch in various finishes, as well as an engraved unique piece, the brand has now unveiled the UR-111C Two-Tone, featuring a case that combines a black coating with brushed and polished steel. The central portion of the case is executed in brushed steel, flanked by black-coated ends that close off the tube-like central portion. The use of different finishes accentuates the architecture of the case, drawing attention to its centre, which contains the key functions, including the time display and roller-style crown. Cosmetics aside, the UR-111C Two-Tone is otherwise identical to the earlier versions. At 42 mm by 46 mm and 15 mm high at its thickest point, it is by no means a small watch but the curvature of the case ensures it sits flat and comfortably on the wrist. Despite its complex design, time is presented in a fairly straightforward manner with three rounded sapphire windows located at the front edge of the case to facilitate better readability while driving. The jumping hours and progressive minutes are displaye...

‘Arm’s Length Architecture’: Building Blocks To Watchmaking As Exemplified By Some Of Today’s Wristwatches Including Urwerk, Nomos, Mido And Girard-Perregaux - Reprise Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Reprise SIHH 2019 provided Feb 22, 2020

‘Arm’s Length Architecture’: Building Blocks To Watchmaking As Exemplified By Some Of Today’s Wristwatches Including Urwerk, Nomos, Mido And Girard-Perregaux - Reprise

SIHH 2019 provided an instructive example to Tim Mosso of architecture’s low-key role in watch design relative to well-worn tropes. For him it was the third year in a row that parts of Geneva’s Palexpo felt like a Southern California cars-and-coffee event. But there are a few watch brands that do architecture well, and Tim takes a closer look at some of them here.

Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity SJX Watches
Urwerk Feb 20, 2020

Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity

Synonymous with playing Iron Man in Disney’s The Avengers franchise, Robert Downey Jr. is also a fan of Urwerk, having worn several of its watches on screen. Having loaned an Urwerk UR-105 CT to Mr Downey to wear in Avengers: Endgame, the watchmaker then offered the watch up for a good cause, selling it at Phillips auctioneers last year for US$312,500. Proceeds from the sale went to Random Act Funding, a charity established by Mr Downey and his wife, Susan. Now another watch worn by Mr Downey is going under the hammer, once again to benefit Random Act Funding. The watch in question is the UR-111C Black that was worn by Mr Downey to the premieres of Avengers: Endgame in New York and Los Angeles last year. Robert Downey Jr. sporting the UR-111C. Photos – Urwerk Offered in like-new condition, the UR-111C is one of just 25 examples made and identical to the standard model save for one important detail: “RDJ” is engraved on the case place where the serial number would usually be. The watch is being sold in an online auction, with the bidding starting at 125,000 Swiss francs. Bids can be placed from now until 9:00 pm Swiss time on February 24. Only registered members of Urwerk Pre-Owned can bid on the watch, and registration can be done on Urwerkpreowned.com. For more information, please contact Urwerk social media manager Alex Rose.  

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal Last year Jan 29, 2020

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal

Last year Urwerk launched the UR-100 SpaceTime, a watch that installed the brand’s signature wandering hours satellite display in newly designed watch case. Unsurprisingly the UR-100 SpaceTime became a brisk seller, not only because it is the most affordable model in the catalogue, but also because its case is compact and relatively conventional in shape, making it the most wearable Urwerk watch by far. And so Urwerk has followed up with the UR-100 Gunmetal, a new variant that arrives just four months after four months after the model was launched. It feels a little bit too soon for another edition, but the Gunmetal is different enough – and the original versions are almost sold out – that it can be forgiven. Steel in disguise While the case of the new UR-100 remains the same design, the finish is unusual. The material looks like titanium, even up close it resembles titanium, but in the hand it is obviously too heavy to be titanium. The case is actually steel, which has been sandblasted to give it a smooth, matte finish and then coated with a dark grey coating. That’s a bit of a surprise, because watch cases that look like titanium are almost always titanium. But Urwerk’s rationale for using steel is practical: hard-coated steel is more resistant to scratches than titanium, which is generally quite soft. The result is watch that has a strong sci-fi military look, like a piece of kit used by the Marines in Aliens, which is very much Urwerk’s original house styl...

Hands-On: Urwerk x De Bethune Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
De Bethune Moon Satellite Nov 1, 2019

Hands-On: Urwerk x De Bethune Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

The collaboration between Urwerk and De Bethune for the upcoming Only Watch is pretty straightforward: an Urwerk wandering hours time display module mounted on a De Bethune base movement, and housed in a De Bethune case. But it works, and the Moon Satellite is one of the coolest watches of the charity auction. Conceptually the Moon Satellite is similar to the Arpal One made for the last Only Watch. Long and sleek, the Arpal One was a collaboration between Urwerk and Laurent Ferrier that looked good, but with an enormous case – it was 60.8m long – that was much too large. The Moon Satellite, on the other hand, is just right. That’s because the case is derived from De Bethune DB28, which is a large watch but one with a smallish footprint and sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to hug the wrist. The Moon Satellite is slightly larger than a DB28, but almost the same on the wrist. Entirely in mirror polished titanium, the case looks like a helmet for a warrior robot. Its shape is asymmetric – angular on the lower half and rounded at the top – in order to accommodate the time display. It’s reminiscent of a helmet, but instantly recognisable as coming from Urwerk, having the U-shaped crystal first found on the Urwerk UR-103 and now on the UR-105. Coincidentally, both Urwerk and De Bethune position the crowns on most of their watches at 12 o’clock, and so there it is. Though it has a similar shape to the standard Urwerk crown, the Moon Satellite crown is flat, so tha...

The Urwerk Opus 5 For Harry Winston That Almost Was - Reprise Quill & Pad
Urwerk Opus 5 Oct 20, 2019

The Urwerk Opus 5 For Harry Winston That Almost Was - Reprise

The Opus 5 by Felix Baumgartner/Urwerk for Harry Winston is one of the best of this series of exceptional timepieces. But, as this drawing by Urwerk designer Martin Frei from June of 2003 shows, one of the original ideas behind Urwerk’s Opus 5 was a digital display in a model christened with the working title "Time Bandit." Check out this superb almost-was timepiece!

In-Depth: Why Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker Selfie is a Dead-Serious Watch SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Urwerk Sep 24, 2019

In-Depth: Why Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker Selfie is a Dead-Serious Watch

Self-taught Russian clock- and watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin, who has built notably complex timepieces, is ironically best known for the Joker, a relatively simple watch. The Joker is powered by an ETA 2814 base movement with an in-house module of just 61 parts that drives the novel time display: two sub-dials, positioned like eyes in a face, for hours respectively minutes, and a moon phase at six o’clock resembling a smiling mouth – the funny face of time. When first unveiled the inaugural Joker in steel at Baselworld 2017, the 99-piece limited edition sold out quickly. The watch also enjoyed critical acclaim; the subsequent Joker Clown won the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve 2018. Konstantin notes he was particularly surprised how eagerly the love-or-hate design was embraced by collectors of high-end watches. So his extended the Joker concept to the top-end of the price spectrum, with the limited edition Joker automaton developed with fellow independent watchmaker Svend Andersen. And then Konstantin recently revealed he was participating in charity auction Only Watch 2019 – alongside peers like Akrivia, F.P. Journe, Urwerk and De Bethune – which piqued my interest, so I reached out to Konstantin to find out more. The Joker automaton by Andersen and Chaykin Inspiration strikes As Luc Pettavino, the founder of Only Watch, was planning the 2019 event, he approached Konstantin to suggest a straightforward variant of the origin...

De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce Sep 23, 2019

De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

When Urwerk cofounder Felix Baumgartner was in town recently to launch the UR-100 SpaceTime, I quizzed him on the De Bethune and Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch 2019. While the other brands taking part in the charity auction had already unveiled photos or renderings of their respective creations, Urwerk and De Bethune only offered a pen drawing. Felix replied that the movement had been completed and delivered to De Bethune some weeks ago, and Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s resident technical genius, was working on building the one-off titanium case. And now Mr Flageollet has completed the watch, and this is it. The initial drawing The meeting of minds Named the Moon Satellite, the watch is essentially an Urwerk wandering hours time display module – with the time indicated on satellites – mounted on top of a hand-wound De Bethune movement, resulting in the cal. DBUR2105. Visually the movement is trademark De Bethune. The calibre has a delta-shaped barrel bridge that is entirely mirror polished, as is the base plate, one of the most distinctive movement treatments of De Bethune. And in striking contrast against the polished surfaces, the balance and shock absorber bridges are in blued steel. The base movement cal. DB2105 boasts several of De Bethune’s patented innovations, including a spider-like titanium balance wheel, the triple pare-chute shock absorber for the balance, as well as the De Bethune hairspring and silicon escape wheel. And it also incorporat...

INTRODUCING: The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime Time+Tide
Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime Sep 14, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime

The horological mavericks at Urwerk have just dropped their latest wristwatch and it is, pardon the pun, out of this world! The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime is a stratospherically cool and novel concept for a timepiece, and one that seems very, very complicated indeed. Essentially, the SpaceTime will not only tell its lucky owners the time, but the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100 SpaceTime SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet with the Star Wheel But Sep 12, 2019

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100 SpaceTime

Known for its innovative, avant-garde complications and cases inspired by sci-fi, Urwerk’s latest creation is doubly interesting. The UR-100 SpaceTime takes the astronomical theme even further with two quirky, celestial indicators – and it is also priced as an entry-level model. The UR-100 utilises the brand’s signature wandering-hours satellite display, where conventional hands are replaced by a semi-circular minute gauge, across which three discs mounted on a carousel sweep successively. It was originally invented in the 17th century for a Vatican City clock, then popularised for wristwatches in the early 1990s by Audemars Piguet with the Star Wheel. But it was Urwerk that took the wandering hours into the 21st century when it launched at UR-103 in 2003; though it was not the first Urwerk wristwatch, the UR-103 was the watch that put the brand on the map (and the recent UR-105 is a nod to the original). Celestial hours On the UR-100 SpaceTime, the hours wander even further: once the red minute pointer completes 60 minutes (or an hour), it disappears under a bridge and reappears through a cutout at 10 o’clock to indicate the distance travelled from the Earth’s rotation on its own axis, as measured at the equator, or 555km every 20 minutes. Another red pointer at two o’clock measures the distance travelled by the Earth orbiting the Sun, which is 35,740km every 20 minutes. Both astronomical distance displays, however, are a philosophical exercis...