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Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite When it Sep 25, 2025

Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite

When it comes to planetarium wristwatches, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CvdK) has little competition, since it owns much of the intellectual property behind the complication. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from competing with itself, and the result the Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite, the most complete model of the solar system ever put in a wristwatch. It’s a maximalist approach to the planetarium concept that’s almost overwhelming in look and feel, thanks to the rich texture of its solid 44 mm meteorite case and busy dial. Building on the Grand Planetarium Eccentric from 2024, the Eccentric Meteorite manages to squeeze in the astroid belt, which is itself embellished with chunks of meteorite that originated on Mars. Intended to be a limited edition of three pieces, it’s possible that just two will be made given the limited quantity of meteorite on hand. The sun at the center of the dial functions as a running indicator, rotating once per minute. Initial thoughts The planetarium is among the most romantic of all complications due to its inherent uselessness; unlike a minute repeater or perpetual calendar, there’s not much action that can be taken with the information provided. But mankind has sought to understand its place in the universe for millennia, and the planetarium offers an intuitive way to visualise our real-time location relative to the sun and the other planets in our solar system. There’s also a strange appeal to the glacially slow speed of...

Introducing – Formex Dresses its Bestseller in Full-Ceramic with the New Essence Ceramica Monochrome
Formex Dresses Sep 25, 2025

Introducing – Formex Dresses its Bestseller in Full-Ceramic with the New Essence Ceramica

Formex, founded in 2000, is renowned for its rugged action watches. The brand’s bestselling Essence, a sporty, all-terrain model with sharp case architecture, a patented suspension system, and COSC-certified movements, made its debut in 2018 and was refreshed in 2021 with a wider range of dial colours. Marking its 25th anniversary, Formex released its first […]

What Happens When Two Swiss Icons From The 1960s Collaborate? Introducing The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM Fratello
Zenith Defy Chronograph USM What Sep 4, 2025

What Happens When Two Swiss Icons From The 1960s Collaborate? Introducing The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM

What if the 1969 Defy had been outfitted with an El Primero chronograph movement? And what if its design had been inspired by the USM Haller modular furniture system that debuted four years earlier? The answer is the 2025 Zenith Defy Chronograph USM. The four watches with dials in USM shades and subtle details linking […] Visit What Happens When Two Swiss Icons From The 1960s Collaborate? Introducing The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM to read the full article.

Armin Strom Introduces The Tribute 1 Sandstein - Honoring Its Hometown Of Burgdorf Fratello
Armin Strom Introduces Sep 2, 2025

Armin Strom Introduces The Tribute 1 Sandstein - Honoring Its Hometown Of Burgdorf

Armin Strom launched the Tribute 1 in 2021 as part of its more accessible System 78 collection. Those were different times, as the world was still experiencing a global pandemic. According to Serge Michel, Armin Strom’s co-founder, the Tribute 1 represented hope that the pandemic would end soon. Well, it did, and in the meantime, […] Visit Armin Strom Introduces The Tribute 1 Sandstein - Honoring Its Hometown Of Burgdorf to read the full article.

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green SJX Watches
Bulgari may have edged it Aug 28, 2025

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program. The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples. Initial Thoughts Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person. The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle. Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant. To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Person...

Introducing – A Fresh Splash of Lime Green and Ice Blue for the Armin Strom Orbit Monochrome
Armin Strom Orbit Armin Strom first Jul 21, 2025

Introducing – A Fresh Splash of Lime Green and Ice Blue for the Armin Strom Orbit

Armin Strom first introduced the System 78 series model, the Orbit, in 2022, which became the world’s first watch with an on-demand date display integrated into a ceramic bezel. The original version featured a mostly monochromatic look, a steel case and a black gold dial, accented only by the red date pointer tip and matching […]

Ressence Collaborates with German Artist Daniel Engelberg on a Pair of Limited Edition Versions of the Type 8 Worn & Wound
Ressence Collaborates Jun 24, 2025

Ressence Collaborates with German Artist Daniel Engelberg on a Pair of Limited Edition Versions of the Type 8

Ressence is one of my favorite independent watch brands for a number of reasons. Chief among them, of course, is the novel time telling system invented by the brand, which is unlike anything else in watchmaking. It’s an example of both mechanical ingenuity and a design triumph, and like others who have had a chance to experience it, I’m continually blown away by the intuitive layout of these watches and the creativity in rethinking something as basic as telling the time. Another reason Ressence has such a strong appeal is that this design language has proven to be incredibly flexible, something we’ve observed over the years as the brand has collaborated with a variety of partners on interesting limited edition projects. The Grail Watch release with Alain Silberstein remains a personal favorite, as does their Dubai Watch Week LE from a few years ago (a new limited edition celebrating the 75th anniversary of Ahmed Seddiqi is also pretty great). A pair of new watches made in collaboration with the artist Daniel Engelberg might just be my favorite Ressence limited edition yet. We got a very quick preview of these watches when we met with Ressence at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, and were immediately taken with their bold color palettes and a design that really leans into the brand’s aesthetic while still being wholly unique works. Engelbert is a German artist and a quick look at his Instagram feed reveals his interest in color and shape, and these dials immediat...

In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet SJX Watches
Breguet Abraham-Louis Breguet 1747-1823 stands Jun 23, 2025

In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet

Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) stands among the most revered names in horology, celebrated for innovations that shaped modern watchmaking. While his tourbillon, self-winding mechanism, and anti-shock system are widely acknowledged, his work in astronomical timekeeping, particularly equation of time (EOT) watches, remain one of Breguet’s most intricate yet less-explored achievements. With 2025 marking the 250th anniversary of his birth, this guide offers the most comprehensive study of every known EOT timepiece made during his lifetime, including pocket watch no. 160 “Marie Antoinette”, expanding on our prior analysis of the complication (in parts I and II). No. 160 as pictured at the recent exhibition in London’s Science Museum. Image – Baruch Coutts Looking at the stars Breguet operated in an era where precision timekeeping was dictated by astronomy, and his workshop, positioned at the heart of Paris’s scientific and commercial networks, was uniquely placed to serve scientists, navigators, and royalty who required accurate solar and mean time readings. Rather than settling on a single method for displaying and correcting the EOT, he explored multiple mechanical solutions, refining some while revisiting earlier ideas when necessary. His approach does not follow a strictly linear evolution but instead reflects a dynamic cycle of innovation, mechanical experimentation, and adaptation. Breguet’s cam-driven system with feeler to indicate EOT, as found in pocke...

First Look – The New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold Monochrome
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Jun 18, 2025

First Look – The New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold

The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold adds a refined, luxurious reference to the brand’s Gravity Equal Force line. First introduced in 2019, the collection debuted with the groundbreaking Gravity Equal Force System 78, the world’s first automatic wristwatch with a stop-work declutch mechanism and Geneva cross inside the barrel, designed […]

8 Great Watches under $8,000 from Watches & Wonders 2025 Quill & Pad
May 22, 2025

8 Great Watches under $8,000 from Watches & Wonders 2025

After replacing her heating system, Carol Besler has been considering all the other thingsshe could have had for $8,000, which naturally led to thoughts about all the nice watches she could have had for around that price. Here are a few that stand out. Since then, I’ve been watching for them, and although it’s a challenging price point for a luxury watch, I’ve come up with a few contenders that offer real value for the money.

The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction Fratello
Breitling purchased May 8, 2025

The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction

While there are no official announcements on new releases from the reborn Universal Genève, we do have news. To refresh your memory, Breitling purchased the brand in December 2023 from Stelux Holdings. It has been made clear that new models, along with authorized retailers, wouldn’t emerge until 2026. However, three “new” one-off SAS Polerouter references […] Visit The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Trilobe Une Folle Journée Rhodium-plated Editions in Blue, Green and Black Monochrome
Trilobe Mar 19, 2025

Introducing – The New Trilobe Une Folle Journée Rhodium-plated Editions in Blue, Green and Black

Trilobe is a young, independent watch brand founded by Gautier Massonneau in 2013. The brand debuted its first timepiece, Les Matinaux – French for The Morning Ones and a tribute to René Char’s poetry collection – in 2018. Distinguished by its unconventional time display, Les Matinaux introduced an original system developed by Jean-François Mojon of […]

Introducing the SJX Podcast SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s investment Feb 27, 2025

Introducing the SJX Podcast

We are pleased to announce the launch of the SJX Podcast, which is now an official part of our programming. The podcast will be regular and topical (though the very first instalment was an ad hoc collector conversation). In the official inaugural episode, editor Brandon Moore and SJX talk about the state of the industry and Swiss watch export figures, the developments at LVMH watches, including Louis Vuitton’s investment in a state-of-the-art manufacture and Zenith’s evolution into a watchmaker’s watchmaker. They also look ahead to Watches & Wonders 2025, and discuss what’s on the cards for brands big and small. The podcast is now live on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube. Addition March 8, 2025: YouTube link added.

Hands-On With The Three New Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Watches Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Feb 14, 2025

Hands-On With The Three New Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Watches

Some watches mimic an early morning sky in April; these three new Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm watches have a playful backstory involving toys. When he was young, former Hublot CEO Jean-Claude Biver used to build stuff with Meccano, a toy construction system invented in 1898 by Englishman Frank Hornby. I happen to be a […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Watches to read the full article.

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day Fratello
Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 Feb 9, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day

It has been a while since we covered Panerai’s Luminor Due collection. Mike wrote an article in 2019 when the brand went from the OPXXXIV to the new P.900 movement. He was a fan of the simpler Luminor Due models, mainly because of their dial design, the crown system, and the case shape. We thought […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day to read the full article.

Price of Admission: What Are The Least Expensive Breguet Watches? Teddy Baldassarre
Breguet Jan 31, 2025

Price of Admission: What Are The Least Expensive Breguet Watches?

For those in the know, Breguet is a name in the history of watchmaking that commands instant respect, and even reverence. The brand’s legendary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is rightfully lauded as the inventor of the tourbillon, but his lifetime horological resumé goes far beyond even that: he made the first self-winding movement, the first watch that was wound by a crown rather than a key, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the gong system for repeater watches, among other innovations. His customers included historical figures like King Louis XVI of France, Queen Marie-Antoinette, and Napoleon Bonaparte. He even invented a style of hands that many other watchmakers other than Breguet still use today. The modern brand that bears his name is one of the undisputed, upper-echelon Swiss watch maisons, alongside names like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, and the jewel in the crown of the Swatch Group.  All that said and acknowledged, a newcomer to Breguet, especially the prospective owner of his or her first Breguet watch, may find all of this background intimidating. And make no mistake, Breguet is unapologetic in both its embrace of historical renown and its timepieces’ exalted level of luxury. The brand’s modern-day stewards harbor no illusion that they offer anything that would be any aficionado’s “first watch.” The whole concept of “entry level” must be stretched a bit at this venerated tier of watchmaking: like Patek Philippe, A. Lan...