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News: SIHH 2018 dates and new exhibitors
News of the next edition of the SIHH 2018: the dates and new additions to the exhibitors list, bringing the total to 34 brands showing in Geneva.
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News of the next edition of the SIHH 2018: the dates and new additions to the exhibitors list, bringing the total to 34 brands showing in Geneva.
Time+Tide
It’s a milestone year for the 4810, as the popular collection celebrates its tenth birthday. To commemorate the big 1-0 Montblanc has released a swathe of new models and limited editions that continue to explore their overarching themes of navigation and exploration. There’s the cruise ship inspired ExoTourbillon Slim, as well as the more accessible 4810 Day-Date. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Montblanc 4810 Twinfly Chronograph 110 Years Edition – a dressy traveller that can do it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The standout novelty for A. Lange & Söhne at SIHH 2014, the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna” is a complicated watch that features a constant force 14 day power reserve, a regulator style dial and the trademark Big Date. The real surprise though is on the back of the watch, with the beautiful and logical […]
Revolution
The first wave of introductions from the 2014 SIHH are out and from one of our favorite houses of haute horlogerie –A. Lange & Söhne –comes the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna.” By the numbers, here’s what we’ve got: a perpetual calendar regulator-dial watch, with instantaneous jumping month, day,leap year, and big date indications; there’s […]
Worn & Wound
While backpacks have been a staple in the EDC community for decades, their compact and convenient counterpart – the sling bag – has become an increasingly popular alternative. The smaller profile makes them a great option for carrying essentials in a discreet (and stylish) way. My sling bag collection is extensive. Here is a list of some of my favorite options for hands-free hauling. Three bags are ones that I use personally, and the last one is on a wishlist that has a pesky habit of always growing. Topo Designs Mini Quick Pack This is my go-to hiking/outdoors sling bag. At 1.7 liters, it’s big enough to carry easy-access essentials like sunscreen, chapstick, and sunglasses while out exploring. It has carry handles at the top, which is unique for a sling, and is especially handy for travel. You can access it easily if you pack it into a larger bag, and it’ll hang well on external hooks for storage. There’s even a bike light attachment loop for those early morning or late night adventures. The folks at Topo Designs sure understand their market demographics. Lululemon Everywhere Belt Bag I’ve bought this bag twice because it’s just that good. It’s a simple, no-frills option that comes in a bunch of different colors that vary based on the season. At 1L, it’s large enough to keep a few items handy, but small enough to blend into any environment. It leans a bit more fashion-forward than some bags, and might not be everyone’s aesthetic. But at a sub-$40 pric...
Monochrome
Cyma‘s history in Swiss watchmaking dates to the establishment of Tavannes Watch Company in the 1860s, and it had its ups and downs like the rest of the industry. Recently, we reviewed the Grand Maestro Steel Cross Chronograph, a modern sports series with a layered dial, powered by a familiar Swiss automatic movement. The new […]
Hodinkee
What We Know This one is orange. That's the news here, really. It's a bit shocking to think that since TAG Heuer's reintroduction of the mighty Formula 1 with an updated Solargraph movement, back in early 2025, in part to mark its return as the official timekeeper of the top-level motor sport race series, they have yet to release a model with an orange color scheme. Well, they have now, and I'm here for it. (And if you haven't read the great Jeff Stein's in-depth story on the surprising origins of the Formula 1, I implore you to stop what you are doing and click here). It's with relief that we welcome the latest iteration of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph. It comes as a limited edition in two versions: one on a rubber strap, the other on a metal bracelet. The orange, grey, and red colorway is ostensibly a tribute to the upcoming Dutch Grand Prix at Zandvoort, a seaside track on the Dutch coast near Amsterdam. The race weekend, beginning August 21, will be the last Dutch Grand Prix—at least in its current iteration. Best known internationally via the Dutch national football team's kit, orange is a beloved color in the Netherlands, tied to the Dutch Royal Family and the House of Orange-Nassau. A TAG watch resplendent in orange (or oranje in Dutch) seems a fitting tribute to the final F1 race in the home country of Max Verstappen, the lead driver for Red Bull Racing - also sponsored by TAG Heuer. The watch features an orange uni-directional timing bezel, orange cha...
Worn & Wound
We’ve recently covered 145th anniversary limited edition releases from Seiko in the Presage and Astron collections, and I bet some of you have probably been wondering, “Hey, what a dive watch?” Seiko, of course, has not forgotten about the Prospex line when it comes to anniversary themed limited editions, and have recently announced the HBC005 and HBB001 in the same blue/silver colorway that is becoming the visual signature of this anniversary celebration. First up is the HBC005, which is built on the platform of their current 62MAS inspired reissue. This heritage focused dive watch has its (modern) origins with watches like the SPB143, but received a handful of small updates about two years ago to make it more wearable (and fix the somewhat awkward 3:00 date window for what I believe is a more under the radar 4:30 execution). The case comes in at 40mm in diameter and 13mm thick, with a lug to lug measurement of 46.4mm. Water resistance is 300 meters, and the movement is the 6R55 with a 72 hour power reserve. The dial is silver with a subtle brushed finish and lume filled, rectangular hour markers. The blue seconds hand is matched with an aluminum bezel insert in blue. There are no obvious signs of it being a limited edition on the dial – just the normal Seiko wordmark at 12:00 and the Prospex logo and two additional lines of text highlighting the power reserve and water resistance below it. The clean silver/white dial paired with the blue accents give this div...
SJX Watches
Being the serious-minded German brand that it is, A. Lange & Söhne almost never makes unique or one-off watches. But just before Watches & Wonders opened its doors last month, Lange presented the Grand Complication in white gold with a black enamel dial to its lucky, large-wristed owner. First launched in 2013, the Grand Complication was a watch of many superlatives – the most complicated, most expensive, and most biggest Lange wristwatch ever made. Six of the 50 mm originals were made, all identical and all resembling a pocket watch with lugs. The new Grand Complication, on the other hand, feels more contemporary, but it remains the most complicated, expensive, and biggest Lange wristwatch ever made. The unique Grand Complication. Image – Owner Initial thoughts Lange’s “grand comp” was launched at Watches & Wonders when it was still a Hong Kong event. I was surprised by the watch, and while impressed by the technical achievement, it felt derivative. As it was then, the Grand Complication was essentially a replica, right down to the white enamel dial. The new Grand Complication looks and feels like an entirely different watch. Made in-house like Lange’s recent enamel dials, the black champleve dial is striking and modern. The white gold case contributes equally to the fresh look that departs the 19th century aesthetic. Image – Owner However, in a strange twist, the new case material leaves the brand logo along the dial flange even more obvious than before. T...
Quill & Pad
The post Livestream 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Follow Watchmaking’s Biggest Night Here appeared first on Quill & Pad.
Monochrome
Exactly one year ago, Rolex, with the help of author Nicholas Foulkes and publisher Wallpaper, took us by surprise when releasing the first-ever Crown-authorised book, The History of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Watch. While such initiatives have been done on multiple occasions by other brands, a historical book receiving the stamp of approval of Rolex […]
SJX Watches
Employing traditional Breguet style but with a twist, the Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are variants of existing models but gain a high-contrast makeover with a black grand feu enamel dial and platinum case – a uncommon and striking combination for a largely conservative brand. Initial thoughts Though white enamel is the default, Breguet has been adding colours to its enamel offerings in recent years, including blue enamel for the Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367. In fact, the Classique 5177 was already available with a blue enamel dial for several years. However, the 5177 and 7787 are amongst the most striking thanks to their stark palette. While neither are actually new models, both are good looking watches that exemplify the Breguet style while being a little different. All the stylistic elements are traditional Breguet, but the monochromatic colours give the duo a stark, modern feel. The 5177 is almost a perfect dress watch, but it has a date at three that gets in the way. That said, the date is less prominent on the black dial than it is on the white version. More appealing (and also more expensive), the 7787 brings to mind vintage Breguet pocket watches with its oversized power reserve display, while the moon phase adds texture and colour to the dial. Black and silver Both the 5177 and 7787 share the same livery of a black enamel dial and platinum case. Platinum is relatively uncommon in the Breguet catalogue, and here it’s used for both the case and crown....
Fratello
There are watch brands out there that, for some reason, we never really get around to appreciating. Perhaps it is because we don’t see them in the wild much, or it could be that their designs don’t jump out at us. For me, Panerai is one of those brands. This is a shame (for me, […] Visit Could Current-Day Panerai’s Biggest Competition Come From Its Recent Past? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The World’s First 3-D Printed Titanium Road Bike We’ve seen 3-D printing become more commonplace in the world of cycling over the years, with 3-D printed handlebars, stems, and frame components hitting the market. But this week saw the unveiling of a first: the first 3-D printed titanium road bike. The Reactor Aero still needs to go through wind tunnel testing before going into production, but it’s a pretty major advancement in bike manufacturing. Made by the No. 22 Bicycle Company in upstate New York, the Reactor Aero is said to represent a 30-40% reduction in drag compared to the existing Reactor model. The prototype is particularly impressive in that nearly the entire bike was printed in a single piece (only the carbon seat tube was not part of the print). You can read more about the Reactor Aero here. Patagonia Enters the Waxed Cotton Arena We’re pretty big fans of waxed cotton jackets around here. They have a certain timeless style and their overall utility is unmatched. If you’re similarly inclined, you’re probably pretty familiar with some of the big players in t...
Worn & Wound
The good news: I’ve never looked at my Marathon Navigator more within a two hour period. The bad news: I only have two hours between preschool drop off and pick up and I’d really like to sneak some fishing in during the precious few hours of free time. The best way to get a line in the water is to load up the bike, grab some gear, and pedal up the trail that follows the Carll’s River as fast as I can and fish all the way back down. I love being a dad but as many of you know, free time comes in random spurts here and there and you have to make the best of it. I also love gear, so any opportunity to put my stuff to good use is welcome. Can I make it up there and back in time? Can I actually catch a fish? We’ll get there, but first let’s take a closer look at the rig, which I believe is pretty ideal for some fishing. My off-road bike is a Cannondale Topstone 3 from a few years back. Known as a “gravel bike”, this style of bicycle is a blend between a road endurance bike (you sit more upright than an on-road race bike) that can accommodate chunky tires for off-road use. The trail I’m riding is firm packed gravel and remains relatively flat the whole way. I’ve found the bike to be comfortable and easy to ride without breaking too much of a sweat. Recently, I swapped out the stock saddle for a leather Brooks because I’ve heard great things about how comfortable they are once broken in. Another cool thing about the Topstone is how it can accommodate gear. Th...
SJX Watches
While Laurent Ferrier originally made its name with timepieces that paid homage to traditional watchmaking, the brand has recently evolved towards to a more contemporary style, especially with its Sport collection that marries solid, classical mechanics with sporty case designs. The latest addition to the line is the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, a limited edition in rose gold and green guilloche that celebrates the 70th anniversary of Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches. Initial Thoughts The Sincere edition is essentially a Grand Sport Tourbillon dressed in a warm and appealing palette. The green dial complements the 5N rose gold case, a rich combination that conveys a sense of old-school luxury and refinement, which suits the commemorative occasion well. Unusually, it is presented on a strap, instead of a bracelet that has been the norm for most of Laurent Ferrier’s sports watches to date. The strap makes the watch more wearable – a bracelet would mean a lot of gold – and also slightly more accessible in terms of price. In typical Laurent Ferrier style, the quality of execution is high. The dial is made by Voutilainen’s Comblemine while the movement is decorated to an impressive level (though the bridges have a simpler linear brushed finish instead of the more traditional striping). Intrinsically, the Sincere edition is an appealing iteration, but the Laurent Ferrier Sport line in general feels ambiguous as the design not e...
Fratello
It always sparks a debate when people read about the “Holy Trinity of Watchmaking.” Maybe that is because some perceive it as an outdated concept - a secret fraternity that has lost touch with reality. Still, Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the members of this unofficial club, alongside Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Once, […] Visit Breaking Down The Brand Vacheron Constantin: A Member Of The Illustrious “Holy Trinity Of Watchmaking” With A History Dating Back To 1755 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced its 2023 winners last night in a ceremony in its traditional venue, the theatre in the Fairmont hotel. Compared to 2022, most of the jury members for the year were new faces, including Anish Bhatt of Watchanish and Ben Clymer of Hodinkee. Presided over by author Nick Foulkes, the jury assembled a list of winners that included several surprises. Some watches rightly triumphed in competitive categories, but in others the prizes felt like they were awarded for lack of alternatives. In nearly all categories, however, the winners had merit, with the only exception being the Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen Automaton that did not win the Mechanical Clock category. The biggest winner of the evening was expected and deserving, going to Audemars Piguet for the Code 11.59 Universelle grand complication. While not the prettiest watch, the Universelle is certainly the most technically impressive watch of the year and deserves the Aiguille d’Or, or “Golden Hand”, the top prize of the event, which was claimed by the brand’s outgoing chief executive, Francois-Henry Bennahmias (pictured above). Not only is the Universelle exceptionally complicated, it approaches several complications in an ingenious manner. Other widely foreseen winners were Petermann Bédat with its 2941 split-seconds in the Chronograph category. Despite my criticism of some aspects of the movement construction, the rattrapante chronograph is undoubte...
On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we’re back on video, and back in the studio! It was a pretty solid week of releases ranging from a near six-figure perpetual calendar by Moser to the return of small-sized Seiko 5s. In the middle, we have a cool, updated version of an iconic Longines military watch, and a value-packed GMT from Germany’s Circula watches. Check out the episode below and on youtube, or listen to the podcast version where ever you find podcasts. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 38: They’re Back! 36MM Seiko 5s and More appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
On Throwback Sunday, we pick six of our favourite watches with grand feu enamel dials. We first explored this topic in 2015. This is our updated list.
Hodinkee
The thinnest Grand Lange 1 yet.
SJX Watches
The award ceremony of 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) just kicked off the biggest week in Geneva’s horological calendar. Widely regarded as the all-encompassing awards of watchmaking, the GPHG is made up of fourteen prizes for individual categories, plus a special prize for the watch of there year. And here are the year’s winners. Aiguille d’Or Grand Recognised for its aesthetic and technical qualities – it is the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar took home the top prize of the event. Audacity The winner certainly lives up to the name of the prize. The Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem is over the top but finely decorated in an artisanal manner, with an impressive movement that combines an automaton and minute repeater. Innovation Deserving of its prize, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most technically impressive watches of 2021. And that’s because it’s kitted out with a double-wheel escapement powered by twin going trains, each equipped with a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism. Men’s Watch Grand Seiko’s Elegance SLGH005 “White Birch” is equipped with an impressive, latest-generation calibre, the cal. 9SA5. It was a worthy winner, though it has to be said that the competition was not especially strong this year. Launched last year for Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, the cal. 9SA5 is the brand’s highest-end mechanical movement ...
SJX Watches
Having just taken place in Geneva and broadcast live, the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony anointed most of the year’s best watches. Whittled down from a large selection to candidates that were evaluated by an all-Swiss jury instead of the usual cosmopolitan mix due to travel restrictions, eighteen watches (and one watchmaker) received prizes. A handful of them are worth a look as worthy winners – albeit winning by default in some of the less competitive categories – as well as a notable watch that did not win but should have. Awarded to the best watch of the contest, the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix, went to the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The thinnest mechanical watch on the market, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) is the culmination of all the progress in ultra-thin watchmaking over the last several decades. At an unreal 2 mm high, the AUC pushes engineering to the cutting edge, albeit at an extremely high price. While there were other watches in the competition that could reasonably be candidates for the Aiguille d’Or, the AUC has earned it. The Piaget AUC Complications and revelations Another prestigious award is the Horological Revelation Prize, which is awarded at the discretion of the jury to watch made by a nascent brand. It went to the Petermann Bédat 1967, unquestionably one of the highlights of independent watchmaking this year. Well deserving of the prize, the 1967 is simply marvellous (we explain why here). Thoug...
SJX Watches
The Independent Spirit: Time Makers Since 1985. By Olivier Muller. AHCI.ch; CHF75.00 Conceived by the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the new book on independent watchmakers wants to address the persistent problem the founding members sought to remedy when they set up the association in 1985. Svend Andersen, one the two cofounders along with Vincent Calabrese, aptly describes the book in the foreword as a publication to raise awareness of independent watchmaking in a manner that’s not available from the mainstream watch press. In essence, the book is an update to The Hands of Time that was published 10 years ago for the AHCI’s 25th anniversary. Like the decade-old edition, the new book serves mainly to market the association’s members, with its structure being familiar to anyone who has seen the booklets that the AHCI has occasionally published, with each member is granted equal real estate to explain his work. The anniversary book of 2010 (left), and ‘The Independent Spirit’ A selection of AHCI booklets published over the last two decades In their own words… The AHCI’s 29 current members gets six pages each in The Independent Spirit, while the seven candidates for membership and 16 former members have one page each. Although Swiss watch journalist Olivier Müller is the “author” of the book, most of its content is a self-presentation by the watchmakers. In my reading, even his editing of their prose must have been restrain...
SJX Watches
Since its debut in 2008, the Cartier Fine Watchmaking (FWM) collection has been the jeweller-watchmaker’s flagship range of timepieces, incorporating highly complicated movements into watches designed in traditional Cartier style, albeit in very large cases. This year’s Fine Watchmaking line-up is made up of four watches – led by the uber-complex Grand Complication Skeleton – all presented in the round Rotonde de Cartier case. Initial thoughts I have held the Cartier FWM collection in high regard – it is testimony to the brand’s haute horlogerie prowess, which most tend to underestimate or are unaware of. So it was a bit disappointing to see FWM recede slightly starting in 2018 as Cartier focused instead on its historical, time-only watches – such as this year’s Tank Asymétrique – which have been resurrected as the Cartier Privé collection. The debut of this quartet of watches is a pleasing return to form for FWM, though it should be pointed out none of the are entirely new in terms of movements. The “mystery” complication of Cartier has been found in several FWM models in the past, but it never fails to astound. The mystery hours, for instance, are simple, time-only watches but have a great deal of visual allure. And the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton revives one of the most complicated movements ever developed by Cartier, while being visually stimulating with its open-worked dial that exposes the intricate and complex move...
SJX Watches
Last year was the 25th anniversary of A. Lange & Söhne’s modern-day revival in 1994, also the debut year of the iconic Lange 1. For the occasion, ten limited edition Lange 1 models were unveiled over the course of the year. The line-up ranged from the basic to the ultra complicated, but one of the standouts was a model in the middle of the spectrum – the Grand Lange 1 Moonphase “25th Anniversary”. Introduced in 2003, the Grand Lange 1 was essentially an upsized Lange 1, with a larger but slightly thinner case – and the same L901.0 movement found in the standard Lange 1. The result was an awkward, cramped dial with overlapping displays that abandoned the orderly asymmetry of the classic Lange 1 dial. Nine years later, the Grand Lange 1 movement was redesigned to create the cal. L095.1, which accommodated all of the indications on a dial with the correct proportions. A moon phase was added to the movement the following year, which increased its thickness slightly. The 25th anniversary edition is a second generation Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase with a subtle, beautiful twist – and one of the most appealing models from the anniversary line-up. Anniversary livery Though large, the watch is notably flat, giving it an elegant profile on the wrist. With a height of 9.4 mm, the white gold case is still thinner than that of the basic Lange 1, despite having the additional moon phase complication. The tripartite case construction has a brushed middle between the polish...
SJX Watches
The story of the A. Lange & Söhne 25th anniversary set is now well known: slated for October launch, the set will comprise 10 different Lange 1 watches, all clad in the same blue and silver livery. One watch has been announced a month since the start of the year, and the latest addition is the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”. First introduced in 2003, the Grand Lange 1 was initially criticised for meddling with an iconic design. It has since matured well, helped by several redesigns as well as a movement conceived specifically for the watch. Grand Lange 1 25th Anniversary Bigger and better It’s the larger brother of the Lange 1, with a case diameter that’s 2.5mm larger; making it 41mm compared to 38.5mm for the classic Lange 1. But because the movement inside was designed to fit the watch, it scales up the design while adhering strictly to the proportions and geometry of the original Lange 1. The new movement was required to accommodate the signature, off-centre displays of the Lange 1, which sit on a neat grid. The cal. L095.1 is 34.1mm, compared to the 30.4mm of the first generation Lange 1 movement, the L901.0. An upside of the larger movement is the consolidation of the twin barrels of the smaller Lange 1 into a single, larger barrel, while still maintaining the 72-hour power reserve. That leads to a small but crucial difference on the dial of the Grand Lange 1: the lettering at seven o’clock reads “Gangreserve 72 Stunden”, German for ...
Revolution
In a way, how everyone knows everyone who’s anybody, in the business. Back in the late 1980s and early ’90s, mechanical watchmaking was beginning its incredible upswing towards what is now widely known as the “mechanical renaissance”. Big-name brands were once again becoming interested in progressing non-quartz watchmaking, and the small collectors’ market willing to […]
Worn & Wound
Our story starts back in 2014 on the year of Oris’ milestone 110th anniversary. For the occasion, the brand unveiled its first proprietary in-house movement in 35 years, featuring a manual-wind 10-day power reserve and a non-linear power reserve indicator. This movement was aptly named the Caliber 110. A year later, Oris presented the next evolution with the Caliber 111 in the Big Crown ProPilot lineup. The new movement added a dedicated date window at 9 o’clock alongside the signature airplane fuel gauge-style non-linear power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. The model’s technical prowess caught the attention of the industry and went on to receive a coveted GPHG nomination that year.Over the past decade, we have seen only a select few iterations on the original, namely new dial colorways. Now, we get a brand new redesign with the latest incarnation. This follows in the footsteps of the brand’s redesign of the ProPilot Date, which brought a series of design updates including an organic dial texture inspired by nature, subtle evolutions to the applied numerals and lume-tipped hands to enhance legibility, and improvements to the ergonomics of the folding ‘LIFT’ clasp (one of the ProPilot’s signature elements). It also introduced an inventive seamless fit strap adjustment system. Let’s get into the specific upgrades that translate to the new ProPilot Caliber 111. Front and center we have a new dial application with fresh finishes. The details are more visible...
Fratello
Although Nivada Grenchen re-entered the market in 2020 after decades of absence, its roots date back to its original establishment in 1926. To celebrate the 100th anniversary, Nivada is releasing seven new dial variations for one of its most popular models, which also underwent a facelift. I was lucky enough to put my hands on […] Visit A Sumptuous Centenary: Hands-On With The New Nivada F77 MKII Stone Dials Collection to read the full article.
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