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Sigma Dial

Two Greek σ flanking \"Swiss Made\" on 1973-80s vintage dials; certified solid 18k gold applied indices by APRIOR.
Rolex Enamels the Daytona SJX Watches
Zenith powered Daytonas Apr 14, 2026

Rolex Enamels the Daytona

This year’s Watches & Wonders got off with a strong start. Rolex unveiled a number of new models, with a strong accent on novel materials and precious metals. A first for the sporty landmark chronograph, the new Cosmograph Daytona comes with an enamelled dial. Initial thoughts Rolex is known in modern times for their mastery of both industrialised mechanical watchmaking and sound material science. The new Daytona is a product of the latter - it benefits from a new sort of ceramic bezel and notably a white enamel dial done a bit differently. At first sight, the new model reminds of the “Porcelain” Zenith-powered Daytonas. A sought-after configuration of pre-2000 Daytonas, the “Porcelain” was nicknamed as such due to the glossy finished white dial, which carried some resemblance to classic porcelain. Among Rolex’s most beloved models, the Daytona has seen a fair share of makeovers over the years. Most special editions took advantage of the motorsport heritage of the chronograph and others added gems and precious alloys to the mix.  The main selling point of this latest Daytona configuration is the enamel dial - a classic element which doesn’t normally connect to Rolex or to sports watches in general. What Rolex successfully did was raise the appeal of the Daytona beyond just a sports chronograph, without resorting to any loud gem setting or full precious metal construction. Instead, the brand opted for a quiet (but modern) enamel and a new bezel configurat...

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Invisible Complexity: The New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux Apr 14, 2026

Invisible Complexity: The New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

Of all modern high-end brands, Parmigiani Fleurier is among my favorites. In fact, the Tonda PF has consistently ranked as the top watch on my list for the past several years. The smooth design and what must be one of the best bracelets I’ve ever tried help boost its ranking. Then, there’s the dial. A […] Visit Invisible Complexity: The New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition Fratello
Oris Star Re-Edition Today Oris Apr 14, 2026

Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition

Today, Oris introduces its Star re-edition. It’s a celebration of the very first Oris watch to feature a lever escapement, from 1966. But “Oris Star” sounds familiar, doesn’t it? Back in 2023, we collaborated with the company from Hölstein on the Fratello × Oris Divers Sixty-Five with “Star” on the dial, just like its 1968 […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition to read the full article.

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The Uber-Lange 1 Gets the “Lumen” Treatment SJX Watches
Apr 14, 2026

The Uber-Lange 1 Gets the “Lumen” Treatment

A. Lange & Söhne turns once again to its greatest hits for its flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2026. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” bestows the translucent, luminous treatment to the top-of-the-line Lange 1 in a 50-piece limited edition in platinum. Powered by the L225.1, an upgrade on the previous generation movement, the latest Lumen edition has a grey-tinted sapphire dial that reveals glow-in-the-dark elements, including the date discs and moon phase. Over the back, the edition is also set apart by a pair of steel cocks sporting engraving of stars. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” stands out as one of the most appealing Lumen models; I’d rank it up there along with the original Zeitwerk “Phantom” in terms of appeal. The Lumen treatment works best with lot of obvious luminous components, which is the case here. Flourishes like the luminous bases for each of the Roman hour numerals are a pleasing touch. The twin engraved steel cocks are especially noteworthy; the concept is classic Lange but the engraved star motif adds variety. That said, the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” scores highly, maybe even perfectly, in terms of intrinsic and tactile appeal. The technical accomplishment is also top class: the calendar is instantaneous, movement construction is sophisticated, and decoration is outstanding. But this arguably scores less well in terms of originality or creativity. The moveme...

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SJX Podcast: Rolex Marks Oyster Centenary with Daytona and Day-Date SJX Watches
Rolex Marks Oyster Centenary Apr 14, 2026

SJX Podcast: Rolex Marks Oyster Centenary with Daytona and Day-Date

Episode 36 of the SJX Podcast comes straight from Watches & Wonders 2026. As ever, all eyes are focused on Rolex during the first hour of the event. SJX and Brandon unpack the brand’s new models, which feature new materials and a novel industrial approach to enamel dial production. We’ll be back soon with more live coverage of the industry’s biggest event. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase Fratello
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 14, 2026

Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase

Patek Philippe has updated one of its long-running calendar models with a new version of the reference 5396R. The watch keeps the familiar Annual Calendar layout the brand introduced back in 1996, but now it comes with a warmer dial color in sunburst sand beige and a rose gold case. It’s not a redesign in […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase to read the full article.

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Introducing – The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference 5322G Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference 5322G

Among the many novelties presented by Patek Philippe on the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2026, the Geneva manufacture expands its range of complications useful for everyday life with the elegant yet modern Calatrava 5322G reference, featuring a 24-hour alarm. Available in green or blue, its design pairs a dial with a black-gradient rim and […]

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Introducing – The new, Surprisingly Modern Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G Monochrome
Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – The new, Surprisingly Modern Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G

On the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2026, Patek Philippe unveils a new astronomical complication with the reference 6105G-001, standing out with its surprisingly modern design. Derived from the Celestial, it features a multi-layered dial with several stacked discs that rotate independently to display the night sky with the apparent movement of the stars as […]

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Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn” Fratello
Grand Seiko s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 Apr 13, 2026

Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn”

The only sense of nature you can experience when spending days on end in Geneva’s Palexpo event center is by handling Grand Seiko novelties. Yes, we sometimes joke about the plethora of nature-inspired dial designs that the Japanese brand releases. Still, they’re most welcome during Watches and Wonders. After a couple of steamy sessions in […] Visit Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn” to read the full article.

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Vacheron Constantin Facelifts the Iconic American 1921 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Facelifts Apr 13, 2026

Vacheron Constantin Facelifts the Iconic American 1921

Vacheron Constantin has gently updated one of its most distinctive time-only watches, the Historiques American 1921. Now kitted out with a silver grained dial, the 1921 retains its characteristic dial layout, along with blue Breguet numerals and hands. Like its predecessor, the new 1921 is also available in two sizes, 36.5 mm and 40 mm, but only in pink gold for now. Initial thoughts Ordinarily, cosmetic variations would not be that interesting, but the 1921 has not been iterated upon too often, despite being almost 20 years old. In fact, the 1921 is a fixture in the VC catalogue, yet has varied little given its tenure. As a result, the facelifted model is appealing and also arrives in a timely manner. Though the changes are subtle, namely to the dial texture plus hand and numeral colour, they give the dial a little more life. The updates also make the watch feel a little more modern, but the result still sits comfortably with the historical design. A driver’s watch Sometimes known as a “driver’s watch” for its off-the-vertical dial layout, the 1921 was modelled a small number of watches made by VC in 1919 and subsequent years. The unusual dial alignment was reputedly to improve legibility while driving, or while preaching at the pulpit for one of the owners of the 1920s originals was an American clergyman. The latest version retains the same design and layout as past iterations, with the dial 45 degrees off the vertical and the crown at two o’clock. Instead of a...

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Open Or Closed? The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar Gives You A Choice Fratello
Gerald Charles Apr 13, 2026

Open Or Closed? The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar Gives You A Choice

Okay, that subtitle is half right. The Masterlink design, with its typical “smile” at 6 o’clock, is not new. But instead of trying to fit a traditional round QP movement into the case, Gerald Charles chose to build a shaped one. The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar is so handsome that, apart from a closed-dial […] Visit Open Or Closed? The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar Gives You A Choice to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar: A Brilliant New Evolution WatchAdvice
IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Apr 13, 2026

Hands-On With The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar: A Brilliant New Evolution

The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar brings one of the brand’s most celebrated complications into its modern integrated sports watch design for the very first time. I take a closer look at what makes this latest evolution of the Ingenieur such a compelling release. What We Love: Compact proportions for a sports watch with Kurt-Klaus’s perpetual calendar design Beautifully executed case and dial finishing Stainless steel makes it more wearable and accessible What We Don’t: No micro-adjustment system on the bracelet clasp Limited strap versatility due to the integrated bracelet design No precious metal option at launch for those wanting a more luxurious take Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Ingenieur has always been one of IWC’s most compelling designs, blending Gérald Genta’s signature aesthetic codes with the brand’s own sporty heritage and technical edge. I’ve been fortunate enough to review quite a few models from the Ingenieur range, which gives a good sense of how the overall collection sits across various sizes and complications. During Watches & Wonders 2025, arguably, one of the biggest shifts to the Ingenieur collection in modern times. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer presented the Ingenieur in a 41.6mm case, with none other than a perpetual calendar complication sitting inside. The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar is the first of its kind, released during Watches & Wonder...

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Sylvain Pinaud Returns with 30-Second Tourbillon SJX Watches
Apr 12, 2026

Sylvain Pinaud Returns with 30-Second Tourbillon

With wind in his sails following the successful Origine series, independent watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud returns with his most ambitious project yet, the succinctly named Tourbillon. The watch looks and feels a lot like its time-only predecessor, but the movement is in fact completely different, with twin mainspring barrels and a fast-rotating 30-second tourbillon. The Tourbillon in platinum with a white agate dial. Initial thoughts Appetite remains strong for high-end time-only watches, but the leading independents are increasingly leaving simplicity behind and treating their collectors to additional complications. Mr Pinaud’s Tourbillon exemplifies this shift. Despite the greater complexity of its movement, the Tourbillon is no larger than the simpler Origine. In fact, it’s about 1 mm smaller in diameter. That’s impressive considering it fits an extra mainspring barrel and adds a zero-reset seconds functionality to its namesake tourbillon. This latter functionality - specifically its heart cam - is on full display through an opening in the running seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock. But its the 30-second tourbillon that gives the watch its name, and which warrants special scrutiny. Fast-rotating tourbillons - which rotate more quickly than once per minute - are quite rare. They require more energy and greater care in assembly, since they almost invariably use lighter components. In the case of the Tourbillon, the slender three-armed cage is made of titanium, r...

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Singer’s DualTrack is its First Twin Time Zone GMT SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II Apr 12, 2026

Singer’s DualTrack is its First Twin Time Zone GMT

Having debuted its first proprietary movement inside the Caballero last year, Singer Reimagined is building on the calibre by adding a second time zone. The DualTrack is powered by the same cleverly constructed movement, a manual wind with an impressive six day power reserve, but gains a 24-hour ring for a GMT function. The watch adopts the cushion-shaped case that’s the brand signature, while the dial similarly preserve the aesthetic found on the brand’s trademark central chronographs, but with a 24-hour ring around the dial. Because the second time zone is an add-on over the calibre, the 24-scale ring is independently adjustable, rather than the local hour hand, making this “caller” GMT rather than a true “traveller” GMT. Initial thoughts I like the Singer aesthetic so this design is appealing, and it implements the dual time zone function logically and legibly. The in-house movement with a long power reserve is also a plus, especially since it has a novel four-barrel construction. The only downside here is the “caller” type second time zone function. A “true” GMT with an independent local hour hand, as found on the Rolex GMT-Master II, is the most convenient format, since it requires fewest steps when setting the time while travelling, but this requires a built-from-the-ground-up calibre. All things considered, that can be forgiven since the DualTrack is an attractive proposition overall. Like last year’s Caballero, the DualTrack is a useful watch ...

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Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco - A Jump-Hour Watch From And For The Roaring Twenties Fratello
Chronoswiss Apr 10, 2026

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco - A Jump-Hour Watch From And For The Roaring Twenties

You’ve seen the combination of a jumping hour with sweeping retrograde minutes and a sub-seconds register before. The Delphis is, after all, one of Chronoswiss’s more recognizable creations. The dial layout is dominant but also open to different designs. At Chronoswiss HQ in Lucerne, the design team drew inspiration from the Art Deco movement that […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco - A Jump-Hour Watch From And For The Roaring Twenties to read the full article.

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Franc Vila’s FVF2 Time & Day is Quirky Haute Horlogerie SJX Watches
Apr 10, 2026

Franc Vila’s FVF2 Time & Day is Quirky Haute Horlogerie

FVF Genève’s second model after the FVF1 skeleton tourbillon, the FVF2 Intrepido Time & Day is a more concise and accessible watch. It’s essentially a familiar formula – time (plus day) and a hand-finished manual wind movement – the FVF2 nonetheless manages to stand out thanks to brand founder Franc Vila’s eye for design. Pictured here with a black mother of pearl dial, part of a five-piece edition, the FVF2 has a pleasing asymmetry. The movement is composed of intriguing geometric forms and quirky details like the square winding click, while also being traditionally decorated with generous bevelling and black polishing. The case is an unusual “unibody” construction where the base plate and case middle are one and the same Initial thoughts The FVF2 might seem like yet another time-only watch with a fancily decorated movement, and it is just that, but not quite. Its creator, Franc Vila, is an industry veteran rather than a newcomer, and is now making a comeback after rising and falling with his original brand some two decades ago. Unlike many recent calibres that try to do more with more, the FVF2 movement is more minimalist but has a recognisable style and artful details. The calibre is characterised by geometric forms that encompass finer elements like the winding click, while also retaining a clear classical bent with the prominent going train and finishing. The treatment for the titanium base plate requires superheated gases to create an oxide layer on t...

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