Revolution
Introducing the MB&F; HM3 Frog X – 10th Anniversary Limited Editions
MB&F; celebrated the 10th anniversary of the HM3 Frog with the HM3 Frog X in three executions
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Revolution
MB&F; celebrated the 10th anniversary of the HM3 Frog with the HM3 Frog X in three executions
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MB&F; presented the HM3 Frog in 2010, derived from its HM3 series launched a year earlier. “The Frog” shocked the watchmaking world by pushing the limits of three-dimensional horology and would rapidly become one of our most recognised and well-liked Machines. Press Release with commentary in italics. Commentary on the HM3 The HM3 was originallyRead More
SJX Watches
Launched in 2010, the bug-eyed HM3 Frog was perhaps the quintessential MB&F; wristwatch during its five-year run, having been discontinued in 2015. Now it’s making a brief return for its 10th anniversary as the limited-edition HM3 Frog X – with a case made entirely of sapphire crystal. Originally launched as the slightly robotic-looking Horological Machine No. 3 (HM3), the model evolved into the more organic Frog, which gained a pair of sapphire domes that made its instantly distinctive. Now MB&F; has taken the idea even further: inspired by frogs with transparent skin according to MB&F;, the HM3 Frog X is entirely clear and whimsically colourful in three different shades. Initial thoughts Changing the case material gives the Frog X a whole new look, which is surprising, since the design is exceptionally idiosyncratic. In fact, the sapphire Frog resembles a grand piano. The crystal case also gives the watch a more cohesive, organic flavour, avoiding the visual breaks between different materials like crystal and metal alloy. And the sapphire Frog also seems more pared back, at least in photos, than the most sapphire-case watches that tend to be flashy. And having the same shape and size, the Frog X shares a crucial quality with the earlier versions of the HM3: good wearability despite the avant-garde design. Because the case is neither excessive long nor wide, and has tiny lugs, it sits well on the wrist despite its seemingly large size. This ease of wear is doubtlessly ...
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Few tourists find themselves in Geneva’s historic Saint Gervais district, the city’s revolutionary hotbed where Jean-Jacques Rousseau spent his boyhood in the early 18th century, and from where James Fazy overthrew Geneva’s ruling oligarchy in the revolt of 1846. Throughout those times, Saint Gervais was above all the city’s horological powerhouse, a warren of sweatshops known as the Fabrique Genevoise, turning out the myriad parts and decorating the watches that made Geneva synonymous with luxury craftsmanship. The workshops were presided over by those emblematic figures of Geneva watchmaking, the radical, opinionated yet urbane cabinotiers. “A Parisian watchmaker,” remarked Rousseau, “can only talk about watches. But you can take a Geneva watchmaker anywhere.”[1] With the revival of luxury watchmaking in the late 20th century, the Fabrique was re-born in the less picturesque ZIPLO (Zone Industriel de Plan-les-Ouates) on the outskirts of town, and the sweatshops are now known as manufactures. Yet there’s still one watchmaker left in the remnants of old Saint Gervais, upholding the cabinotier tradition in this historic centre of Geneva watchmaking. Bruno Pesenti, the last watchmaker in Geneva’s historical watchmaking district, wears the smock and eyeshade of the cabinotiers who made watches here 200 years ago Forgotten brands Bruno Pesenti is one of the few watchmakers who can still fix anything pre-quartz. He welcomes you with modest pride and old-fash...
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A recurring theme in Cartier’s watchmaking is Métiers d’Art – or “artisanal crafts” – where traditional decorative techniques are employed to create elaborate, intricate decoration on the watch dial, and occasionally the case. This year’s Métiers d’Art offerings are a pair of Ronde Louis Cartier wristwatches that return to the brand’s signature big cat motif. Decorated with an unusual marquetry technique involving straw and gold Métiers d’Art Straw and Gold Marquetry Panther is the larger, 42 mm model for men, while the smaller, 36 mm model features enamel filigree, where the enamel has been stretched to form bamboo shoots secured to the dial with gold wire. The 36 mm model with an enamel, gold, and diamond dial Initial thoughts Artisanal decorative techniques often result in prohibitively expensive watches, which narrows their appeal. That said, many watchmakers offer such watches, but produced in small numbers. More recently, they have used old-school techniques to create modern motifs or even light-hearted, whimsicial themes. Cartier’s approach is creativity in technique rather than style. The motif is traditional and reassuringly familiar – the famous panther is executed with exemplary skill but still the panther. That said, the marquetry dial is slightly abstract, giving the panther a slightly more contemporary look. But it will still appeal best to those who appreciate the jeweller’s well-established style. The finished straw marque...
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The grandeur of Place Vendôme is hard to match, and to say that about a location in a city like Paris is quite a statement. Follow Martin Green's tour of the horological history of the square and discover what makes this place so special.
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