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From Patek to Omega, the artist creating the tiniest watches in the world Time+Tide
Omega Sep 26, 2021

From Patek to Omega, the artist creating the tiniest watches in the world

In recent years, there’s been a noticeable trend for watch cases returning to the smaller and more classical sizes of old. Robbie Jones (@robbiethepainter) takes it to a whole other level. The artist creates impeccably detailed models of miniature watches. How tiny? They have diameters under 5mm wide. “When I was five-years-old, my grandmother used … ContinuedThe post From Patek to Omega, the artist creating the tiniest watches in the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You Can’t Ask That: The crazy (new) demand for complicated AP watches Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet story Why Sep 25, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: The crazy (new) demand for complicated AP watches

This is the seventh and final video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: The crazy (new) demand for complicated AP watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
F.P. Journe has swiftly become one Sep 25, 2021

Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

F.P. Journe has swiftly become one of the most desirable independent watch brands, resulting in an ever growing selection on offer at auction. Perhaps the biggest single offering to date comes by way of Sotheby’s, which has amassed a 13-piece lineup of F.P. Journe watches for its upcoming Important Watches sale that takes place in Hong Kong on October 13, 2021. We round up eight of the most notable, a selection that naturally includes a Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription”, as well as several limited editions, ranging from Ruthenium to a Tokyo-boutique special. The full catalogue and registration to bid are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2085: Octa Réserve de Marche with brass movement Originally the entry-level model for the brand, the Octa Réserve de Marche is today a stealth watch of sorts since it is still a simple watch, but an unusually valuable one. Launched in 2001, the Octa Réserve was part of the original trio of watches launched by Francois-Paul Journe, coming after the tourbillon and Resonance. Despite being the brand’s entry-level wristwatch at the time, it still boasted a proprietary movement with an impressive five-day power reserve, though the running time was originally envision was eight days, hence the “Octa” moniker. The cal. 1300 developed for the Octa Réserve would then go on to be the base movement for the entire Octa collection. The best part of the Octa Reserve is its asymmetric dial. Showing the time, date and power reserve, the d...

3 Vintage-Inspired Pilot’s Watches For The Serious (And Less Serious) Aviator From Patek Philippe, Zenith, And Breitling – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Zenith Sep 25, 2021

3 Vintage-Inspired Pilot’s Watches For The Serious (And Less Serious) Aviator From Patek Philippe, Zenith, And Breitling – Reprise

Pilot’s watches rank among the most successful of all watch genres, owing their strong popularity to an unmistakable design with an instrument-like look resulting from over 100 years of history as a technical aid in the cockpit. Modern pilot’s watches still exude this spirit of adventure and audacity, and here are three prime examples from 2018.

You Can’t Ask That: Cross-pollination across Audemars Piguet collections Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet collections Sep 24, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: Cross-pollination across Audemars Piguet collections

This is the sixth video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research and … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: Cross-pollination across Audemars Piguet collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nomos Introduces the Club 36 Blue for Ace Jewelers SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Sep 24, 2021

Nomos Introduces the Club 36 Blue for Ace Jewelers

A family-owned watch retailer with a prominent online presence, Ace Jewelers has made its an annual affair to work with Nomos on a limited edition. Past editions include last year’s #NomiesforLife and the Zurich world time from the preceding year. The latest is the Ace x NOMOS Club 36 Limited Edition, conceived to mark the five-year relationship between the German brand and Amsterdam-based retailer. Initial thoughts The appeal of Nomos; watches lie in their cheerfully simple aesthetics and affordability. Even though the Club 36 Blue is a limited edition for a retailer, it is quintessentially Nomos in style with its blue and orange dial. Being the entry-level Nomos watch, the standard Club 36 is offered in a narrow number of dial colours, which is one of the main attractions of the new edition. And because it is based on the brand’s entry-level model, the Club 36 Blue is unusually affordable. The version with a solid back costs just US$1,000 or so. An uncommon edition According to Ace, its latest limited edition is only the third limited edition based on the Club 36 over the past decade. The upside of using this specific model as the base is affordability, since the Club 36 is the entry-level Nomos. The tweaks that set the Ace edition apart lie in the dial, which has a blue and orange livery that’s based on Ace Jeweler’s corporate colours. Dial aside, the watch is identical to the standard model. The case is polished steel, 36 mm in diameter, and offered with eit...

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Chronoscope SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Sep 24, 2021

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Chronoscope

The latest from Omega is a surprise: a Speedmaster powered by a new, manual-wind calibre but fitted with a retro-inspired, multi-scale dial. Equipped with the full-spec cal. 9908, the Speedmaster Chronoscope is a 43 mm chronograph with a dial bearing three sets of measurement scales: tachymeter, telemeter, and pulsometer. While the multi-scale dial is modelled on vintage Omega chronographs of the 1940s, the case is classic Speedmaster with its characteristic “twisted” or “lyre” lugs. Initial thoughts The Chronoscope is essentially combines well-known chronographs from two disparate periods in Omega’s history: the multi-scale dial typically associated with the vintage CK 2393 powered by the cal. 33.3 from the 1940s, plus the Speeedmaster case that is a 1960s design. But it is distinctly 21st century in mechanics with the new cal. 9908 inside. While any one of those might be appeal on their own, together they don’t work well. The Speedmaster case design is about three decades older than the multi-scale so it feels incongruent. To be fair, the dial looks to be well executed with good detail and design. The portions of the dial look good and the applied numerals are a nice touch. And pricing is fair as well. But despite the appeal of the individual elements, the whole is less than the sum of the parts. Still, the design makes sense from a broader, commercial perspective since it adds a new look to the stable of designs for the Speedmaster, which is one of Omega...

Is the new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Collection a successful marriage of vintage and modern design? Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Collection Sep 23, 2021

Is the new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Collection a successful marriage of vintage and modern design?

Classics are classics for a reason: they present a timeless appeal that many collectors enjoy. This appeal can come from the overall design of the watch or from a specific element. A great example of the latter is the incorporation of multiple timing scales on the dials of many a vintage chronograph. It’s a feature … ContinuedThe post Is the new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Collection a successful marriage of vintage and modern design? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You Can’t Ask That: Audemars Piguet explores new materials Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet explores new materials Sep 22, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: Audemars Piguet explores new materials

This is the fourth video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research and … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: Audemars Piguet explores new materials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT? Time+Tide
Breitling use As we saw Sep 22, 2021

Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT?

I first encountered Norqain in the metal at the COUTURE Watch & Jewellery show in Las Vegas. I had heard of the brand prior, and one of the headlining aspects of their watches are their manufacture calibers developed with Kenissi – the same movement developer that Tudor, Chanel, and Breitling use. As we saw in … ContinuedThe post Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic SJX Watches
Citizen Series 8 Automatic I Sep 21, 2021

Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic

I was impressed by the Caliber 0200 that Citizen unveiled earlier in the year. A new design with an integrated bracelet and an automatic movement developed from scratch, the Caliber 0200 costs US$6,000 – more than the typical Citizen – it is unquestionably a value proposition. The level of fit and finish, especially on the case and bracelet, surpasses practically everything else at that price. Still, US$6,000 is not affordable for everyone. Citizen soon followed up with the Series 8, a line of watches similar to the Caliber 0200 in style but far more accessible price-wise, with the base model starting at US$1,200. Like the Caliber 0200, the Series 8 outperforms in its far lower price segment. The Series 8 is made up of three models – 830, 831, and 870 – but the standout is the 870, the watch pictured below. Citizen loaned me one for a few days, an experience that confirmed my initial impressions. Initial thoughts The Series 8 watches are all excellent at their respective price points, but the 870 impressed me the most – it’s the most expensive but paradoxically the best value. Admittedly, the 870 is yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The familiarity of the concept makes it more difficult for a new entrant to succeed. One benchmark for success in this category is design – the watch has to look good while avoiding being derivative. And another is competitive pricing, since most fresh arrivals in the space can’t compete with the establishm...

You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds Sep 21, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics

You Can’t Ask That, Part 1: Why are AP collections always so controversial when they launch? Introducing a conversation series on YouTube… This is the first video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. The title refers to how direct … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dreams really do come true: My visit to the Tudor Manufacture in Geneva Time+Tide
Tudor Manufacture Sep 21, 2021

Dreams really do come true: My visit to the Tudor Manufacture in Geneva

Having joined the Time+Tide team during the pandemic, the tantalising prospect of travelling to watch events and industry launches was for a long time taken off the table. Instead I was bound to my chair, where I would sit writing each day for hours until I became worried that my skin would actually graft onto … ContinuedThe post Dreams really do come true: My visit to the Tudor Manufacture in Geneva appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest” Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest” Sep 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest”

Today is a neat day for the watch community, and especially for VIP Vacheron Constantin collectors. When I received this press release, I had to pinch myself to see if I was dreaming. Fortunately I wasn’t. When Vacheron Constantin first debuted their prototype Overseas, made for adventurer and photographer Cory Richards to wear on his … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special – and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep Time+Tide
Rolex Deep Sea Special – Sep 20, 2021

Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special – and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep

Early November will see Phillips auction a very unusual, and not made for public, Rolex Deep Sea Special. This watch was based on the experimental Rolex that rode the outside of the Trieste bathyscaphe that, in January 1960, dove to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, some 10,900 metres deep. Following the successful dive and … ContinuedThe post Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special – and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 20, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time

Two years ago Vacheron Constantin created a prototype of an Overseas Dual Time for American mountaineer Cory Richards, who then scaled Mount Everest with the watch. An unusual combination of titanium and tantalum, the prototype was a hit, and soon after sold for just over US$106,000 at auction, with the proceeds going to the National Geographic Society. Its popularity meant Vacheron Constantin (VC) would inevitably put the watch into serial production one way or another. And it has done so – in two versions – with the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph ref. 5510V and Overseas “Everest” Dual Time ref. 7910V. The Everest Chronograph on Mr Richards Initial thoughts I was a fan of the Cory Richards prototype for two reasons. It was intrinsically good looking, in both design and colours, but at the same time it felt original and less similar to other luxury-sports watches. I like the fact that VC translated the prototype into production models without losing the distinctive look and feel. Although the prototype was clearly an Overseas, it had an entirely different case with guards for both the crown and pusher, a feature that has been reproduced on the limited editions. In other words, the Everest editions are not merely the standard models with a new dial. The prototype made for Cory Richards’ ascent of Everest in 2019 The new limited editions both look equally good, though the chronograph is more appealing because of its proportions. It is wider and slightly thick...

MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands Time+Tide
Sep 20, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands

I remember a time when many within the watch community spoke of microbrands like they were some passing phase – an unfortunate result of someone with too much time on their hands and not enough sense. To these pundits, the watches that microbrands were offering would always be lesser-than anything a major, established brand could … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: 4 watches that look like rip-offs that are actually legitimate Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: 4 watches that look like rip-offs that are actually legitimate

EDITOR’S NOTE:  The old excuse that “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery” doesn’t always cut it (just ask any convicted counterfeiter). But perhaps we shouldn’t be too hasty to judge. As James explains here, sometimes a watch may look like a knock-off but actually hold its horological own. Few things in watch world conjure … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 4 watches that look like rip-offs that are actually legitimate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love… Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin was Sep 18, 2021

My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love…

My Vacheron Constantin is actually a watch I inherited rather than bought. When my grandfather passed, nobody in my family was aware the watch existed. My father found it amongst a few other watches in his bedside drawer (including his daily Tag Heuer 1500, which I now own as well). When I got the text … ContinuedThe post My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.