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Quill & Pad
For a minute repeater, the volume and clarity of the sound is important. The Moser x MB&F; Streamliner Pandamonium is made from stainless steel and has hollowed-out segments inside the case to amplify the sound. But it's the Panda playing DJ that makes this unique piece repeater so special.
Worn & Wound
Out of the deep and into the Windup Watch Shop is a freshly re-introduced classic from Benrus watches. Originally released in the 1960s, the Ultra-Deep was one of their most popular watches of the time. With recreational diving really taking off, it’s no wonder that this super capable dive watch was as popular as it was. Let’s take a closer look at the Ultra-Deep from Benrus, which is available now in the shop. Out of the deep and into the Windup Watch Shop is a freshly re-introduced classic from Benrus watches. Originally released in the 1960s, the Ultra-Deep was one of their most popular watches of the time. With recreational diving really taking off, it’s no wonder that this super capable dive watch was as popular as it was. Let’s take a closer look at the Ultra-Deep from Benrus, which is available now in the shop. The post A Vintage Diver Returns – The Benrus Ultra-Deep Now In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
The third release celebrating 70 years of Blancpain’s famous dive watch is military inspired but paradoxically paired with a 9k Bronze Gold case. Limited to 555 pieces, the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 combines the gold alloy with historical military elements such as the moisture indicator and a magnetic-resistant movement. Initial thoughts After the recent Blancpain x Swatch Fifty Fathoms, it is hard to look at this watch and not be instantly reminded of the yellow Pacific Ocean model. But putting that rather unfair comparison aside, this new celebratory limited edition has a few novel details which help elevate it above some of the brand’s more recent releases. The pronounced crystal add to the vintage feel of the watch. Image – Blancpain. I like the addition of the moisture indicator on the dial, although the grey indicator clashes slightly with the gold and beige tones that define the rest of the watch, it helps anchor the piece in Blancpain’s military past. While I am not a fan of the colour of Bronze Gold as it appears in the images, nor do I like faux-patina in any situation, it can be said that the two seem to pair nicely here and compliment each other. The functionality of the movement is clear to see from the specs, and the overall aesthetic reflects the utilitarian inspiration of the watch. The details of the movement, however, reveal it to be finished well, including polished bevels on the bridges and chamfered spokes on the wheels. It is ...
Time+Tide
Can it have a complication, and should it be precious metal? We endeavour to demystify the dress watch. The post What is a dress watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ian Skellern usually starts explaining a wristwatch with a tour of the watch's dial and main features, but the LM Sequential EVO is a monument to its mirror-image dual chronograph with Twinverter function movement so here he starts with the best part: its movement.
Time+Tide
Breguet subtly flexes their horological muscles with a grand feu enamel dial and a repeater calibre.The post The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7637 is stealth wealth, personified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
For those who love historically accurate design and sizing, here's a super compressor for you.
Worn & Wound
Regular readers are likely familiar with (or perhaps deeply bored by) my personal affection for Arcanaut, the Copenhagen based brand that is responsible for what is certainly my own personal favorite watch acquisition of the year. I wrote about how the Arc II Fordite kind of broke my brain and changed my perception of what’s possible when it comes to accessible creativity mixed with real craft back in July, and I’m happy to say that watch is still a regular part of the rotation and continues to be deeply rewarding to own. So I was excited to see a press release find its way to my inbox recently for the latest release from Arcanaut, the Arc II D’Arc Matter Colours Collection. If your reaction to an Arcanaut like mine, with a sterile but psychedelic dial made of reclaimed car paint, is that the case looks great but you just need something to clearly delineate the actual time, these new watches might be worth taking a look at. Even though they clearly have a very different presentation than the Arc II Fordite, they still convey all the charm that makes the brand so interesting. The Colours Collection returns to a motif that Arcanaut first shared in 2021, with a clean slate dial that couldn’t be more different than the wild and unpredictable Fordite dials they’ve been dabbling with over the last year. The dials have a subtle texture, and are finished in Sweden by James “Black Badger” Thompson, whose title at Arcanaut is Chief of Materials Research. A fitting ti...
SJX Watches
After having developed its recent offerings centred on the retrograde display, Vacheron Constantin is presently hosting High Watchmaking Retrograde Displays: A Vacheron Constantin Signature in Singapore from now till September 30, 2023. The exhibition chronicles the development of the retrograde complication from its origins in the 19th and early 20th centuries. On display are rare examples of pocket watches and wristwatches from the brand’s collection. These range from the 1930 “Bras en l’Air”, literally “Arms in the Air” (pictured above) featuring a dual retrograde display, to the more contemporary Métiers d’art Savoirs Enluminés Caper in 2015. This latter piece offers a modern interpretation of the complication, with designs from a page from a 12th century medieval manuscript. Also on show are the brand’s latest timepiece offerings that focus on this specific complication, which were initially introduced at Watches & Wonders in March of this year, like the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date. High Watchmaking Retrograde Displays: A Vacheron Constantin Signature is taking place from September 1-30, 2023 at the Vacheron Constantin boutique located at ION Orchard. It is open to the public daily from 10:00 am-8:30 pm. ION Orchard Singapore 2 Orchard Turn, #02-07 Singapore 238801 To register, visit Vacheron-constantin.com. Correction September 23, 2023: The Don Pancho minute repeater is not on shown at the exhibition, however, it is highlighted by...
Quill & Pad
The Louis Moinet Cosmopolis includes pieces from 12 different, and very rare, meteorites from Jean-Marie Schaller's own collection. And this earned him the Guinness World Records™ title for the "most meteorite inserts in a watch." Martin Green takes a closer look.
WatchAdvice
After seeing the press release, then having all three colourways for our hands on review for a few weeks, I pulled the trigger on the yellow Tissot Sideral S. But why? I’ve been wearing the yellow Tissot Sideral S now for about 2 months. And whilst we already did a hands on review on the collection, which you can read about here, this is an “Owner’s Perspective” with a difference. I mean, how can I do another review of a watch that I reviewed a few months back? To start I thought I’d elaborate on my review, especially now than rather than playing around with 3 colours, I’ve just the one to wear as part of my small collection. I said that the Tissot Sideral was one of those watches that you buy to add to a collection, not to start it, or to have as your one watch. Mostly because it’s not an everyday watch when you think about. It’s bright yellow for one, with a yellow inner track on the dial and a kind of pointless regatta timer on the inner scale. The Sideral S in the sand – perfect pairing! To add to this, its black carbon case isn’t all that versatile either, nor is its looks. It’s a very out there sports watch. BUT that’s exactly what it’s designed to be. A faithful recreation of the original yellow fiberglass cased Sideral S from 1971. However, with 300m water resistance, Tissot’s PowerMatic 80 movement with 80hrs of power reserve and their anti-magnetic Nivachron balance spring, it’s the perfect weekend watch, or holiday watch, or really,...
Quill & Pad
Old wine is always a lottery. The provenance, the chances of the wine being a fake, did the cork hold up, how was the storage, and so on. But sometimes the Gods smile and you taste history!
Time+Tide
Luxury is typically associated with lavishness and opulence – diamonds, gems, yellow gold and the like. Some people want everyone around them to know they are doing well, their wardrobe and accessories a clear tell of this. Others, however, prefer to fly under the radar with their watches – a phenomenon that’s recently gained traction … ContinuedThe post Andrew picks 3 new stealth wealth watches for 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
We’re thrilled to announce the addition of a new EDC brand into the Windup Watch Shop, and that brand is Giant Mouse Knives. Born from a post-knife show discussion between friends and knife community mainstays Jens Anso, Jesper Voxnaes and Jim Wirth, Giant Mouse set out to bring premium designs to the masses. By operating under a production style model (having their compelling designs manufactured by some of the best knife factories in the world), they’re able to bring these amazing designs to life with seriously high quality at an affordable price point. We’re starting off in the Windup shop with two distinct knife models. The Farley is a modern take on the classic slipjoint knife style, while the Riv is a thoroughly modern compact titanium framelock EDC folder. We’re also adding their Caplifter pocket tools too. Let’s take a closer look at these fresh EDC offerings from Giant Mouse. We’re thrilled to announce the addition of a new EDC brand into the Windup Watch Shop, and that brand is Giant Mouse Knives. Born from a post-knife show discussion between friends and knife community mainstays Jens Anso, Jesper Voxnaes and Jim Wirth, Giant Mouse set out to bring premium designs to the masses. By operating under a production style model (having their compelling designs manufactured by some of the best knife factories in the world), they’re able to bring these amazing designs to life with seriously high quality at an affordable price point. We’re starting off ...
Time+Tide
Whether it’s a tough economic time or you’re cutting yourself off after too many impulse purchases, there’s always a moment in a watch enthusiast’s life when they can’t spend a single dollar more. Thankfully there are a heap of ways you can engage with the hobby without losing a cent, and none of them carry … ContinuedThe post How to be a watch enthusiast with $0 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sure, it might just be a new dial color for a year-old watch, but I'm taking the chance to dive into the history of it and where we think the brand could go next.
Worn & Wound
Each new release from Farer seems to be made to combat the stereotype that British design is dull or humdrum. And with each reference comes an innate understanding of color combinations, setting it apart from similar brands in the market. Their latest collection, the Chrono-Contempo line, might just be the best yet from Farer to showcase the brand’s talents in action. The Chrono-Contempo collection, released today, has taken inspiration from Farer’s own backyard. The colorways in this collection are the aptly named Chalcot and Portobello, two nods to historic parts of London. Each with its own unique take on contemporary design, the two blend beautifully to create a broader landscape of Farer’s unique eye for color, encompassing vibrant orange, subtle navy, and a shock of mint green. Chalcot, named for the Square right next door to Farer’s HQ, balances big personality in a wearable design. Inspired by the “Big Eye” chronograph (named for the minute counter being larger than the other subdials), there’s a lot happening on the dial, without ever feeling overwhelming. This is due, in part, to the subtle way in which two of the subdials blend into the mint green backdrop, while the 3 o’clock subdial stands out in white. Further accented by a navy ceramic bezel and orange hands, this watch does Chalcot Square’s characteristic style justice. Second, there is Portobello. This stretch of London is a bustling, creative, and metropolitan hub and the watch mirrors t...
Deployant
Norqain releases the third collaboration with wildlife ambassador Dean Schneider and introduces the latest Wild One Hakuna Mipaka, a nod to King Dexter.
Time+Tide
Lewis Hamilton and IWC collaborate on a third limited-edition piece, introducing the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Lewis HamiltonThe post IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Lewis Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The 1971 Porsche ad quoted Dr. Ferry Porsche in bold letters beneath a Porsche 911: “There is no such thing as the perfect car. There is only the perfect car for now. A car with all the latest proven engineering concepts and design ideas.” The recently presented TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, with its novel chronograph complication, illustrates this idea to the letter. A reference to the acceleration of the original 911, its central seconds hand speeds up for the initial 9.1 seconds of an elapsed minute before slowing down to complete a full minute thanks to non-circular gears. Offered in two distinct versions of steel or rose gold, the Chronosprint commemorates not only the 60th anniversary of the watchmaker’s iconic Carrera collection but also pays homage to Porsche’s legendary creation-the 911 (initially presented as the 901 in 1963). The TH20-08 Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s Carrera x Porsche collection has expanded with the pair of special-edition Chronosprints. However, compared to the earlier 911 RS 2.7 model that was merely a cosmetic makeover, these new Chronosprint aligns more closely with the ethos and spirit of Porsche because it incorporates a simple but clever additional complication within the chronograph. For one, the design evokes the aesthetics of Porsche dashboards from the 1970s, creating a dynamic and speed-focused timepiece. The styling serves as a tribute to the racing heritage of the carmaker, but also one which will appeal to ...
Quill & Pad
In Martin Green's view, the Piaget Polo Skeleton in pink gold with blue PVD-coated movement and matching alligator skin strap is quite the attention seeker, displaying a pleasant luxurious-sporty dynamic. He explains why here.
Time+Tide
Zenith teams up with legendary British club DJ and record producer Carl Cox on a second music-inspired signature edition, this time based on the bold DEFY Extreme.The post Zenith DEFY Extreme Carl Cox appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Over land and ice to understand the Overseas.
Worn & Wound
As Shinola masterfully puts it, “When it comes to excellence, there is no finish line. Only the next lap.” Now on their sixth lap, the Canfield Speedway Lap 06 chronograph is a testament to the growing sophistication of the Detroit-based brand. In this newest iteration of the Canfield model, Shinola remains inspired with racing heritage and the vintage colorways that define that era of automotive sportsmanship. The dial of the Lap 06 is an understated Pea Gravel Green with accents of blue, yellow, and orange on the surrounding tachymeter. These details are enhanced by the two subdials at the 3 and 9 o’clock marks, which are reminiscent of the two-tone wheel design of some of our favorite vintage cars. The case itself is 44mm in stainless steel and complemented by a heavy coin edge and colorful anodized aluminum collars on the pushbuttons. The strap of the Lap 06 is modeled after perforated driving gloves in a bourbon-colored leather. This is an automatic chronograph that runs on a Sellita Caliber SW510.BH.A movement, offering just over 60 hours of power. The Canfield Speedway is a culmination of small details and craftsmanship that have come to represent the Detroit brand as they head into their second decade. The Canfield Speedway Lap 06 is now available with a price tag of $2,995. Images from this post: The post Shinola Debuts the Latest Version of their Canfield Speedway Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
SevenFriday returns to its roots with splashes of colour with three new references as the PS3 Chromatic series in blue, green and orange.
Teddy Baldassarre
Few watches have achieved the worldwide fame and collectibility of the Rolex Submariner, one of the very first purpose-built dive watches and the one that established the formula that so many others still emulate. Nearly every luxury divers’ watch on the market today owes some stylistic debt to the Submariner, which remains to many collectors the gold standard of the category. The Submariner’s association with James Bond, which stems from its being worn by Sean Connery in the iconic movie role, doesn’t hurt its case either. Here’s what you need to know about the Rolex Submariner and why it continues to be an industry trendsetter in the modern day. Origins: The Rolex Oyster Case While most watch historians rightly pinpoint the 1950s as the era that gave rise to the modern, purpose-built diver’s watch, Rolex began paving the way as early as the 1920s. Hans Wilsdorf, who founded Rolex in 1905 and moved its headquarters to Geneva, Switzerland in 1919, was one of the earliest and most prominent proponents of making wristwatches more waterproof. It was a challenge that had plagued watchmakers for years, ever since pocket watches began fading from common usage in favor of the wrist-worn timepieces that gained wide acceptance in the wake of World War I. Wilsdorf’s 1926 invention, the so-called Oyster case, proved to be (no pun intended) a watershed for an evolving industry. Its innovative design combined a threaded, hermetically sealed caseback and a crown that screwe...
Worn & Wound
There’s a narrative that has emerged around the Ulysse Nardin Freak over the years that its an extremely niche product, and something of a difficult watch to fully wrap your arms around. It’s strange, yes, even avant-garde, but as I’ve spent more time considering the Freak, I’ve come around to the other side of this story. I wonder, how can anyone not love the Freak? Even if it’s not to your specific taste, the Freak is an original, and one of a handful of truly important designs that would set the stage for a generation of interesting, independent watchmaking that we’re still living through today. The Freak might not be for everyone, but everyone should be able to agree that there’s something special about it. The latest Freak, the Freak [X OPS] is part of the still relatively new Freak X lineup, a collection that aims to make the watch more approachable. Blake went hands-on with a Freak X here, and both the review and video (complete with commentary from a watchmaker) are worth a look if you’re new to the Freak universe. But the gist of the Freak X is relatively easy to understand: it’s smaller than a traditional Freak, and it has a crown. Historically, the Freak was marketed as a watch with “No Dial, No Hands, No Crown.” A curious rallying cry for sure, and a tough thing to picture. But when you see it, it all (kind of) makes sense. For me, the addition of a crown doesn’t feel like too much of a transgression. The visual impression of the Freak...
Worn & Wound
I stopped using Facebook around 2010. As my first and only social media account, it met my needs for years. I used it to learn about upcoming events, to stay up to date on what shenanigans my friends were getting into, but mostly to communicate. Afterall, it was the dark days prior to unlimited texting. A text was 10 cents. Facebook was free. But then unlimited texting became standard. And, as friends went to different colleges and fell out of touch, suddenly only our mom’s friends were commenting on our photos. It was a sign that Facebook’s usefulness had run its course for us. I, like many others, stepped away. Some went to Twitter, which had been growing in popularity for a couple years. Others went to Instagram, the hot new photo sharing app that our parents weren’t on yet. I stayed out of it. For an entire decade, I happily sat on the sidelines as social media trends came and went, oblivious to it all. When I discovered horology, my watch world consisted of only two outlets. First, a welcoming group of local enthusiasts that met monthly and maintained a lively group chat. And YouTube, a platform where I could anonymously absorb information to my heart’s content. Marc from Long Island Watch taught me how to size a bracelet and use a bezel, and Marshall at Wristwatch Revival was nice enough to let me watch him service vintage watches. I loved my little self-imposed bubble. Between my anonymity on Youtube and the snobbery-free environment of local meet-ups, my ...
Worn & Wound
As the wave of vintage-inspired watches stretches into its second decade, it’s easy to forget who was at the forefront. Among them was Oris and its Divers Sixty-Five, a collection that has grown to encompass myriad configurations. Customers are spoiled for choice with steel, bronze, and two tone watches in various sizes and with dials ranging from demure to outright fun. Up until 2019 (not counting the Brashear limited edition a year earlier), the Divers Sixty-Five had always been just that: a diver. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph has always been quietly competent, but today Oris updates the model. Spoiler: there’s a lot to like. First and foremost, Oris has massaged the case to 40mm, a more palatable size for the mainstream with finer proportions. Thickness is down from 17mm(!) to a more manageable 15.4mm. Gone also are the overtly vintage accents on the bezel edge and throughout the dial. You won’t find any fauxtina lume or gilt text here. Instead, what we have is a truly monochromatic dial and bezel layout. One gets the impression that this is a more serious, if somewhat austere, watch with its foot firmly planted in the modern era. What hasn’t changed is what’s inside: behind the sapphire exhibition caseback beats Oris’ caliber 771 (Sellita 510 base) providing 48-hours of power with automatic and manual winding. You have central chronograph seconds, continuously running seconds at nine o-clock, and a thirty minute counter at three. Water resistance...
SJX Watches
With a towering height of 1.62 m and hefty weight of 40 kg, the one-of-a-kind Space-Time Blade created for Only Watch 2023 undeniably embodies the quintessential Urwerk style in both form and concept. The Space-Time Blade is the only sci-fi, retro-electronic clock in an auction dominated by mechanical wristwatches, proving that Urwerk always does things its own way. Even then the Space-Time Blade is hardly a clock in the conventional sense. It eschews minute and hour hands, and even the outline of a conventional standing clock. Instead it illustrates Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei’s fascination with the captivating and vintage technology of Nixie tubes. It will be sold by Christie’s during Only Watch, the charitable auction held every other year to raise funds for research into a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Initial thoughts It’s easy to see this in the corner of a Brutalist home, alongside other examples of interpretive modern art, but that is not what makes this piece interesting from a construction or technical standpoint. Instead it is the Nixie tubes and their display, along with the multiple timekeeping functions that provided reason for pause. The many and varied ways in which this piece can measure and display time speak to the heart of Urwerk’s philosophy. Known for polarising pieces that push the line between timekeeper and sculpture, Urwerk has created its most abstract timepiece to date with its singular take on the standing ...
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