Hodinkee
The Video Vault: Inside The Workshops Of Philippe Dufour, F.P. Journe, And Roger Smith
Revisiting three of the top independent watchmakers working today.
40,885 articles · 5,192 videos found · page 704 of 1536
Hodinkee
Revisiting three of the top independent watchmakers working today.
Time+Tide
Seiko in 2020 is like a bull incensed: never slowing, threatening in intent and thrilling to watch. Amongst the slew of limited editions across all of their ranges, one of the most attention-capturing is the Seiko SNE566P - a professional-grade diving watch in a sumptuous ‘root beer’ colour scheme, and available now only to Australians … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SNE566P is the new root beer in town, and it’s bigger, bolder and available to buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hermès introduced its first tourbillon, the Arceau Lift, in 2013, an early indication of the leather goods maker’s ambitions in technically-oriented watchmaking. The intertwined, double “H” tourbillon cage was modelled the wrought-iron door of the elevator in the Hermes’ fabled store in Paris at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, hence the name. Seven years later, the Arceau Lift has been upgraded to incorporate a minute repeater. The Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes is being produced in just two examples – each unique – in pink and white gold respectively. Initial thoughts While combining two “high” complications is impressive, the whimsical house style of Hermes is what stands out at first glance. Elements like the asymmetric watch case and open dial are simple quite quickly identifiable as Hermes. More subtle is the dial, which is surprisingly discreet until you spot it. It’s cleverly designed to incorporate the brand’s familiar horse-head motif that takes the form of a cut-out that serves to show off the racks and snail cams of the minute repeating mechanism. The H1924 movement within is high quality in both finish and construction, and also incorporates the equestrian theme with a barrel bridge shaped like twin horse heads. But it is produced by Manufacture Haute Complications (MHC), a respected but struggling Geneva-based movement specialist that has supplied the same calibre to H. Moser & Cie., Dolce & Gabbana, and Artya. So while ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
There is certainly no shortage of midsize, casual, tool-like dive watches in the five hundred to one thousand dollar category these days. However, standing out in this category with the present abundance of choice is a bit of a rarity.
SJX Watches
A tourbillon is not uncharted waters for Seiko, as evidenced by the Credor Fugaku Tourbillon of 2016. The extremely rare, and modestly unattractive, Fugaku was something of a statement, as much about its ornate case and dial as the mechanics. Now an independent brand after being spun off from its parent, Grand Seiko has just announced a movement that squarely emphasises on timekeeping, the T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon. Announced as a concept movement – with no plans for commercialisation publicly revealed – the movement is Grand Seiko’s first equipped with a tourbillon, and also marks the first time Seiko or any of its brands is utilising a constant-force mechanism. The T0 disassembled Initial thoughts It is not often Grand Seiko launches a new and truly novel movement; this year has seen a few. The recent 9RA5 Spring Drive and the 9SA5 Hi-Beat automatic are interesting and practical movements that will be found in future models. On the other hand, the T0 tourbillon stakes a claim of technical prowess oriented rather than practicality, a claim bolstered by the remontoir constant-force mechanism integrated in the tourbillon cage. While Grand Seiko’s integrated remontoir constructed is patented, this is not exactly novel. Precedents in the watches of IWC and Andreas Strehler, for instance. While each of these executed the idea of an integrated constant force differently, all share the common approach of a one-second remontoir. In short, the Grand Seiko construc...
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Time+Tide
I swear we didn’t collaborate on it. It was pure and unintended serendipity. The two most popular stories this week on Watchville (an app you should download here if you don’t already have it, if only for the clock to set your watches to!) were titled: ‘How to steal a watch clean off someone’s wrist…’ … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Watching the news for spiking virus cases, with Geneva rapidly becoming Switzerland’s new hotspot, and deciding by the minute whether we would attend, three of our team members took the plunge and traveled to Geneva to experience the new watches first-hand. Here are our thoughts on the busy, “socially distanced” Geneva Watch Days, including our favorites, the watch we disliked the most, and what we would buy!
Time+Tide
Eric Ku's Rolex 'Shark' Submariner is not a new 2020 edition.The post This is not the watch you think it is… firstly, it’s from 5 years ago. Eric Ku tells the story of his Rolex ‘Shark’ Submariner… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Girard-Perregaux releases two new watches, the Free Bridge and Free Bridge Infinity. The Infinity Edition features black DLC case and limited to 88 pieces.
Revolution
Brand CEO, Patrick Pruniaux walks us through the Girard-Perregaux Cosmos Infinity Edition & Other Novelties at Geneva Watch Days 2020.
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SJX Watches
Long a supporter of green charities, Omega backed a a number of initiatives, including the GoodPlanet Foundation and two island conservation projects in Indonesia. The latest is a partnership with Nekton, a non-profit oceanic research institute that is working on projects in the Indian Ocean. To inaugurate the partnership, Omega has unveiled the Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition, a pared-back take on its bestselling dive watch that features a matte titanium bezel insert instead of the usual glossy ceramic. The Seamaster 2 submersible operated by Nekton Initial thoughts More monochromatic than the typical Seamaster, the Nekton edition has an elegant yet sporty look that sets it apart from its ceramic counterparts. The titanium bezel is good looking, with the raised, polished minute markers contrasting well against the granular base. And it’s matched with a matte ceramic dial featuring red accents – always a good combination on a dive watch. That said, the look resembles the Rolex Yacht-Master in platinum and steel. Though finished differently, the materials used aren’t substantially more valuable, and neither is the Nekton a limited edition. But it still costs about US$1,000 over the standard model, making it less compelling in terms of pricing. Still, the watch is arguably good value relative to the competition, especially considering the solid technical features, namely as the Master Chronometer-certified and highly magnetism-resistant movement. Submersible-insp...
Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux was established in 1856 in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, thanks to the marriage of Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux. The workshops origins were actually as early as 1791, but were not acquired by Girard-Perregaux completely until 1906. Though its history and heritage is in line with brands such as Patek Philippe (1839), … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The dark horses of 2020 are Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Infinity Editions in 38mm and 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
While it pains us as Victorians to write this, for we remain in the dark depths of our second lockdown, the Sydney Hublot boutique is open for business. And with Father’s Day just a few days away, it had us thinking we should loudly remind you of that fact, and then go virtually shopping for … ContinuedThe post 6 watches that show the best and the breadth of modern Hublot, all from the (open) Sydney Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Grand Seikoa adds to their 60th Anniversary Limited Editions with the SBGR321, vivid blue dial inspired by the brilliant sky over Mt. Iwate at dawn.
Hodinkee
The renowned expert in vintage and contemporary watches will discuss collecting in the time of COVID-19.
Video
SJX Watches
I often get asked by family and friends: “Why vintage Seiko?” I can trace my interest in this niche hobby to my childhood, coupled with the fact that I instinctively avoid the mainstream. Growing up in Saudi Arabia in the early 1980s, Japanese technology was found in the majority of products. When it came to watches, there were two market leaders: Casio and Seiko. Everyone at school, myself included, had a Casio of some sort. Seiko watches, on the other hand, were worn by the working professional. I remember clearly being in awe of my headmaster’s watch. It was a Seiko that had a golden-yellow face with a sub-dial. I thought to myself that his success and authority must have come from the watch. I wanted that glorious watch that gave the headmaster his power. Fast forward 25 years to 2017, and I noticed myself subconsciously buying retro Japanese technology, watching episodes of anime series Grendizer and looking for a vintage, yellow-dial Seiko watch – cue my pursuit of vintage Seiko and Casio. The first vintage Seiko I bought was a yellow-dial, all-original ref. 6139-6005 “Pogue” – named after the American astronaut who wore one – from a well-known Seiko seller on Instagram. I had waited almost a year for a Pogue in original condition at a decent price, which frustrated me. After that, I wanted to jump the queue, so to speak, while being under the radar as I knew I couldn’t compete with many of the more serious Seiko collectors. So I hatched a plan: ...
Deployant
Omega affirms their partnership with Nekton to save the seas with a new watch - the new Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition.
Time+Tide
The launch of any new Rolex model this year is a hugely exciting event, but the complete overhaul of the Submariner collection is a moment in time that will be looked back on as the beginning of a new chapter in the history of one of the most celebrated watches ever. Typically, when Rolex moves … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 41mm no-date and the one-inch-punch the world is talking about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko continue to celebrate their 60th anniversary with another limited edition to commemorate the milestone. The latest anniversary model is the Grand Seiko SBGR321, which adds a fifth piece to the first four references that were released earlier this year. The initial four anniversary models included the hi-beat SBGH281, the ladies STGK015, the heritage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGR321 is among the best blue dial steel sports watches of 2020, and you can probably get one, which is nice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Inspired by the blue hues of dawn over Mt. Iwate.
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SJX Watches
Sinn’s latest limited edition commemorates two events – one inextricably linked to the other. The overarching theme of the U1 DE is the 30th anniversary of the reunification of Germany, explaining the dial done in the colours of the German flag. Without German reunification, the second event would have been impossible – the partnership between Sinn and case maker SUG (short for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH Glashütte), which is based in the watchmaking town of Glashütte in the former East Germany. Headquartered in Frankfurt, Sinn first began working with SUG in 1999, before taking a majority stake after the 2002 floods inundated Europe and hit SUG hard. Initial thoughts The U1 is a likeable watch because it is affordable, incredibly robust, and solidly functional. Though it is a large 44 mm, the U1 does not feel as big as it measures. Its only downside is the Sellita SW200-1 movement within, which suffers from a short 38-hour power reserve. The U1 DE isn’t that much different from the standard all-black U1. Essentially it’s a little different on the dial and hands, along with the extra-large Sinn and SUG logos on the back – which really look too big. Ordinarily, limited edition iterations of standard watches are not interesting. But the U1 is an excellent watch, and the U1 DE doesn’t cost that much more than the standard version; the premium is about 15%. That’s a fair deal for something that looks different, while still retaining the no-nonsense st...
SJX Watches
Rolex last did a major revamp for its iconic dive watch in 2012, when it introduced the ceramic insert bezel and beefier case. Eight years later the Submariner is once again refashioned and upgraded. It still retains the classic look that has changed little since the 1950s, but in typical Rolex style the new Submariner 41 mm boasts many incremental improvements, across the case, bracelet, and movement. The Submariner 41 mm is making its debut with eight different models, ranging from the no-date base model to the all-gold version, all powered by the cal. 3235 (except for the no-date that has the cal. 3230 inside). The Submariner ref. 124060 “no date” Initial thoughts The most monumental change – albeit one that is more obvious on paper than in person – is the upsized case. Forty-one millimetres is a first for the Submariner, with the preceding models having been being 40 mm for decades. However, the increase in size was not executed in isolation. The rest of the case was remodelled to fit, as was the bracelet, resulting in a pleasing, well-proportioned watch that doesn’t look as large as it sounds, and actually feels slimmer than it is. New movements Although everything about the new Submariner is new, arguably the most substantive change is the movement. The new models are the first Submariners to feature the current-generation cal. 3235 for the first time, although Rolex has been progressively installing new movements across the range for several years now. T...
SJX Watches
A direct descendant of the first waterproof wristwatch that debuted in 1926, the Oyster Perpetual has long been the most straightforward offering from Rolex, a fuss-free, time-only watch that still retains the brand’s quintessential technology and design. Rolex has revamped the Oyster Perpetual – now available in in 41 mm, 36 mm, 34 mm, 31 mm, and 28 mm – giving it new dials, including colourful lacquer in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red, and green, as well as the latest generation movements for the largest sizes. But not that all colours are available in every size; candy pink for instance is available only for the 36 mm and 31 mm models. The Oyster Perpetual 36 in the new colours Initial thoughts It is heartening to see the return of fun, brightly-coloured dials on affordable models, especially in solid colours instead of being combined with quirky patterns such as the concentric decoration found on earlier generations. The bright-colour dials on the largest 41 mm model in particular make for a lively look that is very different from the usual conservative style of the Oyster. More sedate dial colours – namely metallic silver, blue, and black – are also available, but it’s the silver the stands out. In fact, the silver dial is as interesting as its colourful counterparts. The use of gilded hands and indices on silver dial in a steel watch is unusual. Add to that the pale champagne wash over the silver finish, the result is a warm look that is...
Hodinkee
The more complicated Sub gets the same upgrades as its no-date sibling – plus, it's available in some fun new colorways.
Time+Tide
Seiko Presage is the sharp alternative between everyday Seiko and the mythical big brother Grand Seiko, with a price range coinciding with the Prospex range and an emphasis on dressy references with a classic Japanese twist. During the last couple of years, Presage has mainly been known for their very popular Cocktail Time series, with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series is yet another competitively priced collection for dial fetishists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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