Revolution
Introducing the Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100
Montblanc pairs their perpetual calendar with a tasty new dial.
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Revolution
Montblanc pairs their perpetual calendar with a tasty new dial.
SJX Watches
Chanel’s signature all-ceramic watch – that’s recently been executed in transparent sapphire crystal – receives the rainbow treatment for Watches & Wonders 2021. Inspired by the electronic dance music culture of the 1990s, the J12 Electro collection is made up of a variety of models that span the price spectrum, along with a one-of-a-kind, 12-piece set. Initial thoughts While the rainbow colours seem faddish, Chanel is enough of its own brand – and the J12 a successful enough design – that the line up still feels original. While most of the Electro watches are over the top, the 12-piece set is subtle bling in literally every colour – and truly cool. It is a shame that the only affordable watch in the line up is a 33 mm quartz watch, leaving all the mechanical options in the six-figure price range. The 12-piece set, for instance, costs over US$1.00m. That said, the allure of Chanel is so great that the globular crystal clocks it debuted in 2018 swiftly sold out, despite the price tag of roughly US$240,000. Rainbow galore The most extravagant watch in the line up is the J12 Electro Star, a 38 mm model in 18k white gold set with over 32 carats of baguette-cut diamonds and 13 carats of sapphires. Totalling 267 baguette-cut stones, the sapphires are set on the flanks of the case and links, creating a rainbow gradient of colour. It’s powered by the cal. 12.1 movement made by Kenissi, the movement maker partially owned by Chanel. J12 Electro Star The cal. 12.1 o...
Time+Tide
We don’t have to remind you of either the importance or our enthusiasm for the genre-busting design of the thinnest sports watch available, with its ever expanding list of records and paper-thin complications. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando, however, is darkly different, as we see in this new chapter of the ongoing and fruitful … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando offers dark minimalism at its Japanese architectural best appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Colorful jewelled watches are trendy now. Zenith joins the likes of Chopard, Cartier, Jacob & Co, Harry Winston and Rolex to introduce a spectrum of colors to the highly technical DEFY sports watch.
Revolution
Who said a dive watch had to be boring?
Time+Tide
It’s crazy to think we only crossed paths with Eric Ku in January of last year, when he so kindly donated a Tiffany stamped Rolex to the Watch & Act auction. Since then, yet another luminary in the game who had previously been a face on a screen – Hodinkee’s Talking Watches a real highlight … ContinuedThe post Supercollector Eric Ku responds to the 5 key 2021 Rolex releases in this candid video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rolex has released new references of the Cosmograph Daytona with meteorite dials, in each colour of gold as well as the option of a bracelet or silicon Oysterflex strap. The versions on Oysterflex are matched with a black ceramic bezel, while the bracelet models featured gold bezels. Initial Thoughts Meteorite dials on Rolex watches are not new – the meteorite dial with Roman numerals made its debut on the Daytona almost two decades ago – and the current lineup includes features both the Day-Date and GMT-Master II with meteorite dials. The meteorite dials will be available in all three colours of gold (from left): Everose, white, and yellow gold The new arrivals are essentially a modest facelift – they share the same case, bezel, and mechanics as current gold Daytona – albeit one that is very well done. They are certainly eye-catching, especially combined with high-contrast black registers (the first-generation meteorite dials had matching meteorite registers). The new look is fairly priced. Depending on the case metal and choice of bracelet, expect to pay a premium of 10-15% over a standard gold Daytona model. Exotic dials Made of a slice of iron meteorite, the dial is first etched with acid to highlight the Widmanstätten pattern, the streaky motif created by the crystalline structure of the material, and then polished. But it still retains a slightly textured surface, unlike the perfectly smooth lacquered finished of most Daytona dials. As is conventional for...
Time+Tide
Too often in watchmaking the focus is only on the technical and the very expensive. Yes, it’s critical for the watch industry to continue to innovate, but complication for its own sake serves a very limited number of ends. Sometimes I wish there were more watches that just focused on being fun, lighthearted and affordable, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must presents a statement piece with a blast of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art collection, even those uninitiated with watchmaking can clearly see the artistry and hand craftsmanship of the watches. Inspired by art, history, and culture, the collection leverages the master craftsmen and intricate techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation. Each dial is quite a masterpiece, serving as … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Collection pays tribute to legendary explorers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
TAG Heuer’s new Aquaracer dive watch in a range of colored dials puts us in the right mood to enjoy our favorite water sports.
Revolution
Tudor continues to celebrate 50 years of its Chronograph this year with a reworked Black Bay Chrono Steel in a new dial design and bezel style that harks back to the brands Big Block era.
Revolution
Following hot on the heels of last year’s super-hot ‘stella’ dial Oyster Perpetual 36, Rolex has relaunched its Explorer in its familiar 36mm guise and has expanded the line with a Rolesor yellow gold and Oystersteel version.
SJX Watches
Perhaps the world’s most desirable wristwatch, the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A became even more sought after when was made known earlier this year that the model would be discontinued. To give it a proper send-off, the brand is now unveiling the final iteration of the Nautilus in steel, this time with an olive green dial. The base model, if it can be called that, is the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014, but the model will also be available with a diamond-set bezel as the Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001, which is notable for being the first time Patek Philippe is setting diamonds on a steel men’s watch. The Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014 And the Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001 Initial thoughts Green seems to be the new blue, and Patek Philippe is very much on board the bandwagon with its new Nautilus ref. 5711/1A – though it’s arguable Patek Philippe is helping start the trend just because the Nautilus is, well, the Nautilus. Already impossible to get, at least at the affordable retail price, the steel Nautilus will definitely be the rarest in green, out of all three variants (the others being the original blue dial, and the later white dial) and thus the most covetable. In essence, the new Nautilus is just a facelift. The case, movement, and bracelet remain the same – the only change is the olive green dial, which retains the signature, horizontal-stamped pattern. But given the impending discontinuation of the ref. 5711/1A, the mere fact there’s a new model has sent everyone into ...
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty one sees Rolex revamp both its Explorer references, just in time for the 50th anniversary of the model. The new Explorer II ref. 226570 gets a new movement, while preserving the familiar style of previous model, the ref. 216570 that was launched exactly a decade ago. That means a second time zone hand in orange; fixed, brushed steel bezel; a largish, 42 mm case; and a white or black dial. While the new Explorer II is similar to its predecessor in terms of aesthetics – though the case is slimmed slightly and bracelet widened – it is powered by the cal. 3285, one of the latest-generation Rolex movement. Initial thoughts The new Explorer II is a major technical update thanks to the new movement, but in terms of look and feel, it is likely indistinguishable from its predecessor. Anyone who was a fan of the preceding model – this is a superior version of the same because the new movement is substantially better. But for those who thought the 42 mm case was too wide, it’s still 42 mm, albeit with redesigned lugs to make it slightly narrower. I find the 42 mm case a bit too big, but the version with the “polar” white dial has long been a favourite, and the new movement makes it more appealing, notwithstanding the case. For what it costs at retail the Explorer II is an excellent buy – as most Rolex watches are – though it’ll probably be tough to land one for now. Nips and tucks The Explorer II has a 42 mm case made of Oystersteel, which Rolex’s o...
Revolution
Nicolas Baretzki, Montblanc CEO and Laurent Lecamp, Watch Division Direcor, walks us through the their latest at Watches & Wonders 2021.
SJX Watches
Launched alongside the affordable Tank Must in steel at Watches & Wonders 2021, the Tank Louis Cartier is a limited-production that’s the flagship model of the new Tank offerings. Featuring an Art Deco “sector” dial modelled on a style found on the Les Must de Cartier Tank of the 1980s, the Tank Louis Cartier (or Tank LC) combines an 18k gold case with the in-house, hand-wind 1917 MC movement. Initial thoughts The Tank LC is the perhaps quintessential Tank, and the new version is one of the most compelling in recent years, both in design and the fact that it’s mechanical (most have been quartz). The new model is practically identical in size to what was historically the “large” Tank LC. That means a case that’s 33.7 mm by 25.5 mm, and 6.60 mm high. It’s relatively small by modern standards, but the size works well as a formal-dress watch under a cuff, though it would look out of place with casual wear. In fact, it excels as a formal watch that is a little more interesting, thanks to the dial design and colours. The Art Deco dial is simple but striking, and appealing in both design and colour. The only shortcoming is a historical one – it was originally found on the inexpensive Les Must de Cartier Tank, while this is clearly a high-end timepiece. At US$13,100, the new Tank LC is relatively affordable as such things go, which makes it a strong contender for a formal watch that’s a bit more lively. Classic Tank The new Tank LC is offered in two guises ...
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre releases two new Reversos A non-complicated Reverso in a green dial, and the other will be revealed on April 14th when the embargo lifts.
Time+Tide
The Aquaracer is many people’s first Good Watch and has become a well-loved collection from TAG Heuer. The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 collection presents a strong vintage-inspired vibe including a razor-sharp limited edition that ticks all of my boxes. The Aquaracer might seem very familiar, but TAG Heuer has successfully transformed the range, with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 delivers a strong new vintage-inspired collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Cartier takes great strides towards sustainability with the elegant Tank Must, a watch shaped by the past but reimagined for the future.
Time+Tide
Anyone that’s paid more than a passing glance to Time+Tide stories, social media posts and videos over the years knows one thing. We do things a little differently over here. Especially at watch fairs. It’s not entirely by design. We are more often than not as chronically over-caffeinated as we are understaffed. Luckily for everyone, the … ContinuedThe post Hey, wow, what a surprise, we’re doing Watches & Wonders a little differently this year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Most watch brands will never make their 100th birthday. In fact, very few companies from any industry are able to build successful businesses over several generations. Time is as unrelenting as it is unforgiving, so when something is able to stand the test of time, we can only applaud the strength of will behind it. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection turns 100 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The word icon gets thrown around a lot in the watch industry. Every manufacturer wants one and you can understand why. But the Cartier Tank is without a doubt one of the fundamental pillars of watch design in the last century. While the Santos-Dumont collection has received a lot of attention from the brand in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tank Louis Cartier collection is a revival of Art Deco flamboyance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Back when I was first dipping my toes into the waters of watch enthusiasm, the IWC Big Pilot was one of the first luxury watches that captured my admiration. I had no means to afford it at the time, and I did not have the level of understanding I do today, but its utility and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How does the new IWC Big Pilot 43 differ from the original Big Pilot 46? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Best known for its ultra-exotic tourbillons, Greubel Forsey builds movements with unique three-dimensionality and exemplary finishing. In 2019, it started applying its unusual brand of watchmaking to the sports watch for the first time with the GMT Sport – a world time with inclined tourbillon – and now follows up with the new GMT Sport that has the same movement but the addition of an integrated titanium bracelet, a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Although the integrated-bracelet sports watch may be new for Greubel Forsey, it’s now a familiar and fashionable concept. Greubel Forsey is relatively late to the party – beyond veterans like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, such sports watches are already found at almost every price point, from Citizen’s US$2,000 Series 8 to the Lange Odysseus. That said, the GMT Sport is noteworthy for one simple reason – it’s the most complicated, and perhaps best finished, integrated-bracelet sports watch money can buy, combining a world time, dual time, and an inclined tourbillon. So while Greubel Forsey took its time with the concept, the brand certainly executed it in style. I much prefer the new GMT Sport over the earlier version. For one, the bezel is now plain, devoid of the tiny, relief inscriptions that are something of a Greubel Forsey signature but don’t quite work on a sports watch. The dial is now entirely in blue, giving the new GMT Sport a more modern look (that admittedly is also fashionable given the popular...
SJX Watches
Having become synonymous with stunningly minimalist fume dials and a peculiar sense of humour, H. Moser & Cie. now combines both in the new Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/. A limited-edition collaboration with Parisian artist Romaric Andre, who specialises in modifying watches as Seconde/Seconde/, the new watch reimagines the brand’s signature time-only watch by replacing the traditional hour hand with a pixellated eraser – a tongue-in-cheek reference to Moser’s “concept” dials that forgo the brand’s logo. Initial thoughts When I first saw the press release for the new watch, I did a double take – was it an April Fool’s gag? The watch is funny and out there, and something only Moser could pull off successfully. Being family-owned – with young, open-minded leaders – Moser can be adventurous than its peers. The Seconde/Seconde/ collaboration is Moser doing what it does well. In fact, Moser’s strength is obvious despite the “erased” logo – the watch is instantly recognisable as a Moser. I’ve always liked Moser’s whimsical offerings, such as the Apple Watch-esque Swiss Alps Final Upgrade, and now the Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/. These watches have an undeniable fun factor rarely seen in haute horlogerie, which endows the watch with a playful charm. It’s an atypical watch that is typical of the brand. At US$21,900, it’s priced identically to the standard Endeavour Centre Seconds in gold; this, however, has a ...
Revolution
H. Moser presents a limited-edition flying tourbillon in unique natural stone dials, and a Pioneer Center Second in turquoise fume dial.
Revolution
Ulysse Nardin continues its stylistic adventure and has created a technical diving watch that is eye-catching in its appearance and contemporary in its composition.
Quill & Pad
Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti was a fanatic for details with the mind of a sculptor. His visions on four wheels still grace the most elite concours d’elegance around the world. And his personal Mido watch on a bespoke gold bracelet is set to be auctioned by Stanislas Machoïr on Saturday April 17, 2021. Martin Green shares a few more details about this priceless artifact here.
Revolution
We shine a spotlight on our limited run collaborations with some of the world’s best-loved watch brands.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: For a tiny bit of context… this was part of our NOT ON MY WATCH series about the things we don’t like on a watch. It’s pretty self-explanatory as a column, but the reason we’re indulging our gripes on Time+Tide is that this is a safe place to do so. In the wider … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Sorry, but date windows on dress watches are ugly and pointless appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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