Time+Tide
Andrew’s three Geneva Watch Days 2026 picks that hit hardest on the wrist
Andrew McUtchen picks the three watches that made the biggest impact at Geneva Watch Days 2026, from Bulgari, Frederique Constant and Gallet.
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Time+Tide
Worn & Wound
Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for a Windup NYC Preview in Billings, Montana
Have you ever wanted the Windup Watch Fair to come to your neck of the wood? Well, if you live in Montana, you’re in luck. Following the success of our recent enthusiast night in Salt Lake, Worn & Wound is teaming up with Citizen Watch America once again, this time heading north to Montana. On Thursday, September 17, we’ll be joining our friends at Riddle’s Jewelry in Billings for a special preview of the offerings they’ll be bringing to Windup NYC next month, and you’re invited. Thursday, September 17, 2026 5:30–7:30 PM MT Riddle’s Jewelry – Billings Shiloh 1002 Shiloh Crossing Blvd. Billings, MT 59102 RSVP NOW! This isn’t your average watch event. We’re bringing along a curated collection of standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina—including watches that are difficult to track down, rarely seen in person, or simply deserve far more wrist time than they usually get. Everything will be out and in the metal, ready for you to pick up, strap on, obsess about, and, if one steals your heart… it’s ready for purchase. A few of the amazing highlights include: Citizen Eco-Drive Photon – Reference BJ6560-53W This limited edition celebrates the 50th anniversary of Eco-Drive technology and features a silver-tone Super Titanium case with a Duratect titanium carbide finish. Limited to just 5,000 pieces worldwide, it’s a standout example of Citizen’s ongoing commitment to light-powered watchmaking. Accutron Spacevi...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
DOXA Finally Made the Titanium Dive Watch I’d Actually Buy
DOXA brings Grade 5 titanium to the regular SUB 300 lineup, with five dial colors, COSC certification, and pricing starting at $3,190.
WristBuzz
Gallet Is Back: Four Collections, 200 Years, and Breitling Behind the Curtain
The historic Swiss name relaunches in 2026 with four purpose-built collections, manufactured by Breitling and aimed squarely at the modern adventurer
Monochrome
Introducing - Czapek Inaugurates its Quai des Bergues 27 Boutique with Special Editions of the Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme Complicité
Coinciding with Geneva Watch Days, Czapek & Cie opens a new flagship boutique at Quai des Bergues 27, a symbolic address for the brand where, in 1839, François Czapek and Polish émigré Antoni Patek laid the foundations of Patek, Czapek & Cie. To mark the occasion, Czapek releases two special editions: a Quai des Bergues […]
SJX Watches
Golden Obsidian for Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater
One of the most striking watches to debut at Geneva Watch Days is a new variant of Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater featuring a dial made of Golden Obsidian. In variation from last year’s debut, it’s forgone the glossy black onyx dial in favour of naturally formed volcanic glass. Initial thoughts Beyond the dial the only change is the strap, still with its signature centre-lug though now in a brown calfskin which nicely dresses down the overall package. It’s a perfect example of the brand’s ethos as they expand the collection: methodical, deliberate and measured. Small changes that stack up and give buyers more choice, and the addition of the Golden Obsidian alongside the Onyx shows how one small change can take a watch from classical and serious to relaxed and charming — having both options in the lineup should help satisfy still-healthy demand for stone dials perfectly compliment each other and goes far to round out a healthily expanding lineup for Gérald Genta. Obsidian dial Golden obsidian is a variant of the jet-black volcanic obsidian you’re likely familiar with. It forms naturally when lava cools rapidly and traps microscopic pockets of iron, air and gas bubbles forming organic striations and graining through the glass. These imperfections give golden obsidian its warmth and shimmer, changing dramatically as light hits it from different angles. What it does share with stone is its unique formation, so no two Golden Obsidian dials will be alike. Like wi...
Monochrome
Introducing - Akhor Brings Rare Stones on its AK-10 Stromatolite and AK-10 Maw Sit Sit
Akhor, an independent Swiss watch brand spearheaded by Anissa Bader, made its debut one year ago at Geneva Watch Days. Unlike many newcomers to the scene, Akhor benefits from Bader’s ties to Clamax, a watch component and micromechanics manufacturer based in Geneva. The inaugural watch was the poetic Le Temps en Equilibre, based on a […]
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth’s Gilty Pleasure
Daniel Roth has unveiled the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, a new variant of the brand’s elegant time-only model featuring a gilt black dial. Unlike many contemporary watches that misappropriate the term, this is a true gilt dial by definition, where the gold seen on the dial is in fact the dial plate shining through where the dial finish hasn’t been applied. Initial thoughts Daniel Roth is keeping up its momentum at a thoughtful pace; the latest Extra Plat is quintessential Daniel Roth in style, though it stands in stark contrast to earlier versions of the model. Though the new Extra Plat is unchanged in form and movement, it has a strikingly different feel, akin to a dress watch with a bit more flair. Daniel Roth’s line-up, then and now, was dominated by pale-coloured dials. Though the brand made watches with black dials in its original incarnation back in the 1990s, they were uncommon, making the “Rose Gold Gilt” dial both historically correct and novel. Dial aside, the rest of the watch is familiar. The compact dimensions are spot-on for an old-school dress watch, but unconventional in form thanks to the double-ellipse case. And the movement is simple but finely executed, and decidedly superior to the workmanlike Frederic Piguet calibre in the 1990s original that inspired this. A true gilt dial Creating the dial finish is a multi-stage process. Daniel Roth start with the solid 5N rose gold dial plate and apply a pinstriped guilloché, executed by hand on a straig...
Fratello
A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton - An Alpine Limited Edition
There is something particularly Moser about taking a watch already built around an absurd amount of visible mechanics and deciding that what it really needs is a ceramic case. Today, I’m taking a look at the new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition. It’s the third project born from the […] Visit A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton — An Alpine Limited Edition to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Oris' Big Crown Pointer Date Goes Small With A New 29mm Version
What We Know Why am I, the tallest editor in Hodinkee history, so weirdly excited about the smallest Oris release in recent memory? It's questions like this that don't have easy answers, but we've landed here all the same, with all 6'7" of me slightly giddy at the release of a new Big Crown Pointer Date in a 29mm case. Okay, more than slightly. I love a good pointer date, but I never considered that the smaller-wristed among us (some of them maybe ladies) would be well served by a tiny little version of Oris' long-running icon. Well, I'm glad Oris decided to make it happen. With a stainless steel case measuring 29mm by 11.4mm and a miniature 35.5mm lug-to-lug, the watch's proportions look so wildly normal that you could be fooled into thinking it is like any other previously released version. Which is a good thing. Nothing wonky or distorted, just the fluted bezel and big crown (now tapered for comfort and to be more ornate), with a slightly more daintily printed dial with a mix of printed numerals and dots (to keep from overloading a small dial with print), reworked hands (without the contrast date pointer), and dials with a mix of central sunburst and outer grained finishing. The watches come with a black dial and silver hands, or a pinky rose-toned dial and orangey-rose hands. Inside the case is an Oris 534 movement, with a 25.6mm diameter and automatic winding, beating at 4Hz and with a 42-hour power reserve. Yes, the power reserve is a bit—well—reserved, but it's ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date And Classics Moneta Handwinding
What We Know At Geneva Watch Days this year, Frederique Constant introduces two new references that continue to build on the momentum the brand generated at Watches and Wonders. The Highlife Moonphase Date adds a moonphase complication to the Highlife collection; the Classics Moneta Handwinding is the first mechanical movement in a collection that launched in 2024 with a quartz movement and added a solar version earlier this year. Together, the two references display the range of what the manufacture builds in-house, from a complicated moonphase module to a hand-wound caliber developed exclusively for the brand. The Highlife Moonphase Date measures 39mm and comes in two dial colors. The rosé champagne dial uses a sunray finish that radiates outward from the moonphase window at 6 o'clock rather than from the center, with gold and copper tones set against a blue moon disc. The night blue dial uses a lighter sunray finish closer in tone to its own moon disc, with a red "31" marking the final day of longer months. The moon disc is rendered with grey shading and surface relief rather than a flat metallic disc. Both versions use applied, mirror-polished, lume-filled indexes and hands. By comparison, the Classics Moneta Handwinding measures 38.5mm and comes in a single dial color: a smoked salmon-tone gradient that darkens to black at the edges, with applied mirror-polished hour markers, two dauphine hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock. The Highlife Moonphase Date...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis
What We Know In honor of the centennial of legendary musician Miles Davis' birth, Breitling has just announced a limited edition collection at Geneva Watch Days. I say collection because it's more than just one watch, if you want it to be. At the core, Breitling has launched a 500-piece limited-edition model, the steel Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, which is inspired by the ref. 806 Mk 5 Navitimer that was worn by the famous jazz musician. If a single steel option isn't enough for you Davis heads out there, Breitling is also producing 50 three-piece sets that offer a trio of executions of the watch, spanning steel, yellow gold, and even platinum with a blue dial. We can start with the core model, reference AB09501A1B1X1 or AB09501A1B1A1, depending on whether you want a leather strap or the bracelet (you want the bracelet). Measuring 41mm wide (the same as the reference worn by Davis), 13mm thick, and 47.1 mm lug-to-lug, the Navitimer Miles Davis uses a Breitling B09 hand-wound movement that is COSC-certified, ticks at 4 Hz, and employs both a column wheel and a vertical clutch. Water resistance is 30 meters, and this special edition sports both cream-colored lume and Breitling's (very cool) Twin Jet logo. And then there is the bracelet, a modern interpretation of the Air Racer bracelet that uses a cuff design with large holes. For this execution, Breitling has added hinged links near the clasp to help with comfort. But that's not all; aside from a gorgeous...
Fratello
Breitling Reimagines A Jazz Classic With The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Miles Davis
Breitling honors the centennial of Miles Davis’s birth with the new Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Miles Davis. This limited-edition Navitimer revives a host of vintage design cues to create a fitting tribute to the pioneering jazz musician. At its heart is the manually wound B09 caliber, recalling the hand-wound Navitimers of the 1960s […] Visit Breitling Reimagines A Jazz Classic With The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Miles Davis to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport
What We Know Now in its sixth decade as one of the most famous movements in the industry, the El Primero remains at the heart of Zenith's offerings. To kick off Geneva Watch Days, Zenith is doing something slightly different, launching a Chronomaster Sport without a chronograph—the Chronomaster Solo Sport. The watch arrives in four variations: three with ceramic dials and bezels in black, white, and brown, plus a no-date option also in black. All four come in a 40mm stainless steel case with a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel. The dial features hours, minutes, and seconds, with date added on three of the four references. Despite losing the chronograph, there's still a lot going on up top. The words "36,000 VpH" and "high frequency" alone take up two lines of the dial, and the subtle "shark tooth" minute track gives a nod to vintage Zenith references. The dial itself is ceramic, built around a repeated 45° Z motif meant to evoke the rhythm and vibration of the movement underneath—rendered as a sunray finish on the white version and a polished surface on the black and brown versions. That same pattern carries over to the counterweight on the seconds hand. The El Primero 3620 powers the watch, derived from the El Primero 3600 chronograph movement and operating at 5 Hz, or 36,000 VpH, while retaining the star-shaped rotor. It's equipped with a silicon escapement and a stop-second mechanism for precise time-setting, and it offers a 60-hour power reserve. Also featur...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition
What We Know Gerald Charles, known for their Maestro cases, continues to evolve that idea at this year's Geneva Watch Days, but this is the first time they've offered something where every piece is genuinely unique. It's based on a Gérald Genta design from 2007 called the Sarawak, a diamond-and-ruby integrated-bracelet watch created for the Royal family of Sarawak—unknown to the public until 2024—and the direct ancestor of the Masterlink. It's impressive to see the brand continue to iterate on Genta's own designs, decades on. The case looks familiar—it's a classic Maestro, coming in as a square at 38mm x 38mm. The svelte dimensions continue inside: a profile just 7.99mm thin, aided by the 2.67mm movement. There are three colorways here—Golden Rose, Rhodium, and Golden Yellow. The dial is clearly the focal point here, bringing a new element to the Masterlink lineup. Each dial is individually hand-hammered by an artisan at Gerald Charles's atelier in Geneva. It's made of maillechort—also known as German silver or nickel silver, a copper-nickel-zinc alloy — and is typically used for movement bridges and plates rather than dials. It wasn't chosen because it's easy to work with—quite the opposite: it requires longer production times, wears tools faster, and results in a higher rejection rate. Since each dial is hammered by hand, no two are identical, and there are no applied indexes here, leaving the hundreds of small facets in full view. Inside is the ultra-th...
WristBuzz
Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far
From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition (Live Pics)
What We Know Oh hey. It's me, your resident Muppets enthusiast here at the 'Dink. I'm a proud owner of the first collaboration between Oris and The Muppets, the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, and last year, I covered the follow-up ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition, which took the creative exercise in a very different direction. In all honesty, I thought that might have been the end of the partnership between Oris and Disney regarding the Muppets, but it looks like they're not quite done yet. Today, Oris announces its Muppets hat trick with the new ProPilot X Gonzo Edition. Gonzo in his peppery shirt. © Disney. The third entry continues to see an iconic Muppets character introduced and incorporated into a different model within the ProPilot X line. Kermit showed his face on the date window of the 39mm ProPilot X Cal. 400 in titanium, and Miss Piggy hid on the winding rotor of the 34mm ProPilot X in steel. For the third entry in the Muppets series, Oris has taken "go big or go home" in a much more literal sense by pairing the Great Gonzo, the death-defying stuntmuppet, with the largest watch in the ProPilot X line, the ProPilot X Calibre 115. The titanium case of this grade 2 titanium ProPilot X has a diameter of 44mm, a thickness of 12.6mm, and an expansive lug-to-lug measurement of 52mm. But the case is large because the movement is very large, with the manually wound Calibre 115 inside featuring a giant mainspring barrel that gives the watch a whopping ten days of power reserve....
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Social Club Edition II
What We Know As part of the brand's varied releases for Geneva Watch Days, Oris has announced the Social Club Edition II, a special creation sold exclusively online in partnership with the Oris Social Club. The group spans some 62 chapters all over the world, and the latest offering to the acolytes is a handsome expression of the Aquis Relief that incorporates a green nylon NATO-style strap. Measuring in at 43.5mm, the Social Club Edition II builds upon the standard Aquis Relief by complementing the steel bezel design with a frosted silver finish for the dial. Look a bit closer, and you'll see that there is an easter egg for the date, too, as the first-of-the-month position will feature an image of Oris' mascot, the Oris Bear. Flip the watch over, and you'll find a custom caseback showing the Oris factory in Holstein and "OSC | INT" to mark the club's international membership. The full specs are provided below, but the Oris Social Club Edition II is 13.1mm thick and 51mm lug to lug with 300 meters of water resistance protecting the Oris 733 movement within. The 733 is based on the Sellita SW 200-1 and is an automatic, Swiss-made movement that ticks at 4 Hz and offers a date, which, for this model, is at 6 o'clock. Perhaps most interesting – or perhaps I just like NATO straps – Oris has elected to fit lug adapters to the Aquis' proprietary lugs to enable the use of a green NATO strap. The Oris Social Club Edition II is not limited and will be available in Septembe...
Fratello
The Way Gérald Genta Intended: The Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian
The Gérald Genta brand is putting its legendary founder’s philosophy at the top of its priorities. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Gérald Genta releases a new Golden Obsidian version of the Geneva Minute Repeater. This 40mm 3N yellow gold novelty comes after the 2025 Geneva Minute Repeater Black Onyx. It also houses the manually wound […] Visit The Way Gérald Genta Intended: The Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian
What We Know Today, at Geneva Watch Days, Gérald Genta has announced the latest version of its Geneva Minute Repeater. This new version of the watch, which was originally released around this time last year, swaps the black Onyx dial of that release for a novel dial in Golden Obsidian. Other details are largely unchanged, continuing the trend of the revived Gérald Genta expanding its lineup with caution and deliberation. As with last year's Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater, the Golden Obsidian uses the 40mm-wide, 9.6mm-thick yellow-gold version of the cushion-shaped Geneva case (as opposed to the 38mm version introduced earlier this year in the time-only models, which you can read about here). The protruding single-lug design, found on a handful of Genta watches from the later stages of his career (including the Credor Locomotive), means this watch wears pretty close to 40mm lug-to-lug. Inside the Geneva Minute Repeater is the in-house GG-002 movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps. It's a 3 Hz movement with 80 hours of power reserve and an impressively loud minute repeater. It's a nice bit of watchmaking, and — as Mark intimated when he went hands-on with the Onyx-dialed version of this watch last year — it fits nicely into the lineage of Genta-designed minute repeaters. The big talking point with this year's Geneva Minute Repeater is the Golden Obsidian dial. Golden Obsidian — a material I had not encountered before this watch — is a volcanic glass that...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Bulgari's Unexpected Dual Time Octo Finissimo With Vianney Halter, Plus A "Dazzle" Camo Release
What We Know While I hate to repeat myself, I will yet again call something "the most surprising collaboration." I mean, it feels warranted, especially when I say that not only have the minds at Bulgari handed over the reins to collaborate with an independent watchmaker for the first time ever, but they've done so with a maximalist mind that contrasts with Bulgari's measured take on design. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual x Vianney Halter. What a world. And not only that, but Bulgari allowed Halter to take an Octo Finissimo movement and work with the brand to create modules to complement the Jules Vernian steampunk design. The new movement, the BVF 200, is based on the BVL 138 and has an automatic microrotor winding system, but with modules to add a dual-time/GMT function, Day/Night indicator, and a large, rotating date. At the top right, you have the main time zone. Bottom left has another window for the GMT time (ostensibly set forward and backward with pushers on the left-hand case side, like a Patek travel time watch), a day/night indicator at the bottom right (capped by Vianney Halter's name), and a giant aperture with a date disc, highlighting the date with a small fork. All of these functions are in porthole-style apertures like those found on Halter's Antiqua. The movement runs at 3Hz and has a 60-hour power reserve. From the side, the Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter is noticeably thicker than previous models. That's not hard to do, since the Chronograph ...
SJX Watches
The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger
A decade after it first debuted, Tudor has revived the Northflag. Originally a 1970s-inspired sports watch to showcase Tudor’s first-ever in-house movement, the Northflag has been upgraded inside and out. The rebooted Northflag gains a GMT function plus refinements all round, ranging from superior detailing on the case to lume blocks on the dial. And the movement is now a Master Chronometer, while the price stays true to Tudor’s value-oriented focus at just over US$5,500. Initial thoughts The original North Flag was a bit quirky with its power reserve indicator, and also probably ahead of its time; a Tudor with an in-house movement seemed like an odd concept back then. I liked it then, but the North Flag wasn’t a commercial success, so it is surprising that Tudor has revived the model. But the new Northflag is an immediately appealing watch, reflecting Tudor’s advancements in design, manufacturing, and branding. In fact, the Northflag is one of the most interesting watches in the current Tudor catalogue, alongside the equally recent Monarch. Although practically everything Tudor makes is well priced and an easy recommendation, almost all of Tudor’s best watches are variations of the Oyster case and Black Bay diver. The Northflag, on the other hand, is something else entirely. The angular, 1970s-style case is different, as is the dial. But all the elements are harmonious, and the design works. This is one of my strongest recommendations in the Tudor line-up today,...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Louis Erard Marqueterie de Paille, an Attainable take on the Straw Marquetry
It’s fair to say that since Manuel Emch joined Louis Erard in 2021, the brand has blossomed. Whether it’s the wide range of collaboration watches produced with esteemed watchmakers (Silberstein, Chaykin, Halter) or its lineup of beautiful dials, often crafted with traditional decorative techniques at accessible prices, Louis Erard has become a go-to brand for […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time
What We Know Tudor's North Flag has always been something of an outlier. It was originally launched in 2015 at Baselworld and was the first Tudor to feature one of the brand's in-house movements. Only ever available in two specs, on a bracelet or on a leather strap, the North Flag (91210N) was discontinued in 2021. Today, the Northflag (now one word) returns, evolving the 2015 offering with a single reference that sports a 24-hour hand for a second time zone. The new Northflag, ref. 9140G1A0U, uses 316L stainless steel for its 40mm case and integrated bracelet. The case is 12.7mm thick and 48.8mm lug-to-lug. Compared with the 40 x 13.3 x 50mm of the original North Flag, this new model should be more compatible with smaller wrists thanks to its more compact dimensions. The water resistance is 100 meters, and it has a domed sapphire crystal up front and a display caseback. Inside, and viewable via that display caseback, is Tudor's MT5652-U automatic movement. It's a 4Hz METAS-certified Master Chronometer with a stated accuracy of -0 to +5 seconds/day. For those keeping track, this is the same second time zone-equipped movement found in the Pelagos FXD GMT. Both the date and the GMT function are set via the crown, and adjusting the second time zone is done by jumping the local hour hand to a new time zone (such as when you land at your destination) in standard "flyer" GMT functionality. Like its predecessor, the second-gen Northflag's dial is black, with minimal text an...
Hodinkee
Introducing: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Limited Edition
What We Know This weekend, Formula 1 returns to Ferrari's home track (for the series, at least) of Monza, and with that return, TAG Heuer is releasing a new version of the eponymous Monza Flyback Chronograph. The watch was originally released in 1976 to celebrate Ferrari's return to the top with the constructors' and drivers' Formula 1 championships, with its black-coated case setting the stage not only for the model's future but also for similar releases from Heuer (and later TAG Heuer). A Monza isn't a Monza unless it's black, so this new release fits the remit perfectly: a 42mm by 15.22mm case in forged carbon, with red accents on the dial. Often known as the Niki Lauda (after the driver who won the title in 1976), the original watch featured a lot of red (and was reissued over a decade ago), though the dial layout has changed significantly from the original. This time, that red has been swapped around, with accents on the minute-counting and chronograph hands, the combination pulsometer and tachymeter flange scale, and the flyback mark at 6 o'clock. The date is still included, moved to 9 o'clock (which in turn puts running seconds at 6 o'clock), but with an angled window. The indices are all printed, and the hands and hour markers use white Super-LumiNova. The watch is powered by the COSC-certified Caliber TH20-12 automatic movement, running at 4Hz. TAG Heuer didn't provide specifications here, but past versions of the Monza with this movement had an 80-hour power rese...
Monochrome
First Look - Seiko Adds 4 new References to its Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Collection
A name with historical importance at Seiko, the Speedtimer refers to early wrist chronographs created by the brand back in 1969. Alongside Zenith and the Heuer/Hamilton/Breiling venture, Seiko was among the first three brands to launch an automatic chronograph movement with its calibre 6139 inside a watch named the Speedtimer. In recent years, this name […]
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: John Nagayama's '96' Is An Essential Guide To The Rarest Of Patek Philippe's Quintessential Calatravas
In this week's edition of our ongoing book review column, I thought it was a good time to highlight a reference that's been sitting on my shelf for a while but was sadly out of stock by the time it arrived at my place two years ago. Well, luckily for us, John Nagayama's masterful Patek Philippe tome, simply called "96," has been reprinted, and out of the 450 copies released for sale just a few weeks ago, there are still a couple left. John Nagayama, at his old office in Tokyo, Japan. John Nagayama, known as @johnbehalf on Instagram, is the undisputed king of the reference 96. That's saying something. The long-lived, miniature (by today's standards) time-only Patek Philippe has become the framework and measuring stick for basically every dress watch that's come since, and long-time collectors have never turned a blind eye to it. But recent interest, driven by Mike Nouveau over on TikTok in particular, and acceptance of a 30.5mm watch has put it back on the map. But Japan, where Nagayama is based, became the Mecca for small watches and 96 obsessives. Nagayama has probably forgotten more than nearly anyone will ever know about time-only Patek. And he doesn't forget hardly anything. If you browse his site, you'll see some super esoteric stuff. While writing this, his homepage featured one of the 10 known ref. 433, this one in platinum and rose, with an amazing three-color dial. His personal collection (from which he pulled four amazing watches for a past story we did in Japan)...
Fratello
Get It On And Bang A Gong With The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater
Let’s put the volume that the new Piaget Polo Minute Repeater produces into perspective. Most traditional repeater watches don’t exceed 60 decibels (dB). They make a sound you can compare to a whispered conversation. Now, normal conversation averages around 60–65 dB, so when a minute repeater chimes at 64, you will hear it without holding […] Visit Get It On And Bang A Gong With The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Keyless Works
Having previously examined concepts related to energy flow inside watch movements, from automatic winding to barrel capacity and gear tooth profiles, we now turn and look at how energy enters the movement through the keyless works. For the majority of watches, the crown is the sole component through which the owner interacts with the movement, for both setting the indications and winding. While these operations have become a matter of routine, they wouldn’t be possible if not for the keyless works. This underrated mechanism — usually hidden — deserves a closer look. From key to crown We owe today’s user-friendly dual-purpose crown, which can be used for both winding and setting, to French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe, whose last name is certainly resonant with all horology enthusiasts. A keen technician who had not found success in his homeland, Philippe was approached in 1845 by Antoine Norbert de Patek, a Polish watch merchant from Geneva. Patek’s then-partnership with François Czapek was going sour and the merchant was looking for a new, technically oriented associate. Shortly thereafter, Philippe was appointed as technical director at Patek’s firm. This unexpected fast track was due to Philippe’s innovation: the keyless, stem-wound movement. Although his French peers weren’t taken with the invention, Patek recognised the potential of keyless timepieces and sought to capitalise on — and further develop — the concept. Later in 1851, Patek, Philipp...
Fratello
An Artistic Homage To Venice: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Turner Series”
Jaeger-LeCoultre once again turns its iconic Reverso Tribute into a canvas for fine art. Hailing from the manufacturer’s Métiers Rares atelier, these four new creations celebrate the Venice-inspired works of J. M. W. Turner. The watches debut at the Homo Faber Biennial exhibition, which takes place in Venice throughout September. Curated by the Michelangelo Foundation […] Visit An Artistic Homage To Venice: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Turner Series” to read the full article.