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RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Roni Madhvani Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Feb 18, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Roni Madhvani

Stetz & Co recently published an interview with one of the foremost vintage watch aficionados on the planet, Mr Roni Madhvani. Madhvani - or as he goes by on Instagram, @roni_m_29 - has a truly unbelievable collection of some of the rarest and most eccentric timepieces from the likes of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Roni Madhvani appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Uncommon Longevity – The Story of Golay Fils & Stahl of Geneva SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin producing or retailing highly Feb 17, 2020

Uncommon Longevity – The Story of Golay Fils & Stahl of Geneva

Auction catalogues often offer early 20th century pocket watches of impressive, refined quality that bear the names of unfamiliar Geneva firms. Amongst the most prominent are Agassiz, Ed. Koehn, Haas Neveux, and Touchon. Despite their obscurity now, these brands were once amongst the best in the world – arguably the equals of Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin, producing or retailing highly complicated and extra-thin timepieces. All of them, save for one, are now defunct and long forgotten. In fact, most went under long before the Quartz Crisis. A single name has survived and prospered while remaining a family business, by evolving its business over the centuries – Golay Fils & Stahl. A familiar name As an avid reader of auction catalogues, I had come across Golay Fils & Stahl on several occasions, and the name stayed with me because of the high quality of firm’s pocket watches (Haas Neveux being another). Then in November 2019, Phillips sold the Patek Philippe ref. 3652 minute-repeating wristwatch. Not only was the watch relatively recent, having been made in 1985, it was a unique reference powered by a reworked vintage movement – and signed “Golay Fils & Stahl” on the dial. Few retailers get their name on modern Patek Philippe watches, let alone a one-off, custom timepiece. It piqued my curiosity. The ref. 3652 – essentially a Calatrava ref. 96 minute repeater By sheer chance that curiosity was satisfied when Melissa Wolfgang Amenc got in touch after see...

Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction – Complications and Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin minute repeater pictured above Nov 18, 2019

Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction – Complications and Enamel

Happening in just over a week, the Phillips Hong Kong watch auction is a 321-lot event spread over two days. Notably, the first session is an evening sale titled First, made up of 52 watches consigned by their original owners. The offerings in First, as well as the main sale the next day, are diverse array ranging from a possibly unique Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon with a black dial, and a wonderfully elegant Vacheron Constantin minute repeater (pictured above) – both consigned by the first owners no less – to vintage sports Rolex watches and Omega Speedmasters. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002G Another original owner Patek Philippe grand complication, the ref. 5033P Here we cover some of the complicated watch highlights, while other vintage and sports watches will be featured in a subsequent article. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. First, lot 833 – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph One of the best values in the segment of perpetual calendar chronographs is a pre-owned Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This example is in platinum, with a largish 43mm case that is suited to today’s taste for larger watches. The layout is traditional for a perpetual calendar chronograph, though the calendar windows are slightly small relative to the size of the dial. But this has a decorative flourish few of its peers have: the moon phase is a hand-engraved disc of white gold that features a tiny...

Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias Nov 11, 2019

Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019

Only Watch 2019 is the biggest watch auction ever – and it was the most exciting sale in a notably quiet Geneva auction season – with 50 lots selling for 38.59m Swiss francs. The last Only Watch auction in 2017 raised a mere 9.29m francs in comparison. And of course 31m francs of that came from just one watch, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel, which went to a determined buyer from Asia bidding via telephone with Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Presided over by Christie’s jewellery department head Rahul Kadakia, the best watch auctioneer who is not a watch specialist, the saleroom in Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues was jam-packed, so full even Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias had to stand. And there was even a famous face in attendance, or at least in the same building – former Thai prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, who is a a known watch collector, was spotted in the lobby of the hotel. Luc Pettavino, who founded only watch after his late son was stricken by Duchenne muscular dystrophy, the very disease that Only Watch raises funds to research a cure. Photo – Alex Teuscher Photography Though the Patek Philippe accounted for most of the sale proceeds – which all go to a medical charity – the other 49 lots in the auction still sold for an average of 155,000 Swiss francs, which is well above the average for a watch auction. The Antiquorum watch auction that took place a day later, for instance, averaged only...

Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Nov 9, 2019

Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe

Patek Philippe’s entry into Only Watch 2019, the one-of-a-kind stainless steel Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, has just smashed, in fact obliterated, the record for the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. But it wasn’t just the Patek that stretched into the seven-figure stratosphere at the charitable auction last night, as two other … ContinuedThe post Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part II SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Gobbi” chronograph Nov 7, 2019

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part II

Here’s part II of highlights at Phillips’ Double Signed auction – you’ll find the first part here – including a lovely Audemars Piguet “Gobbi” chronograph with a green gold dial, as well as a gorgeous Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 “pink on pink” that’s more affordable than usual, for a reason. Lot 35 – Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in pink gold “Trucchi” The most valuable lot in the sale, with an estimate over 1.2m francs, is the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series in pink gold. It’s one of only six pink gold third series watches known; in fact, the total number of ref. 2499s in pink gold across all four series totals just 23. And this is the only one with the “Trucchi” signature on the dial, having been sold by the retailer in Naples that’s still in operation today. According to Phillips, it was sold by Trucchi to an Italian-American doctor in 1972, who then sold it to the consignor who sold the watch at auction in 1999 at Antiquorum in Geneva. It sold for almost 700,000 francs then, making it one of the most expensive watches in the world at the time. The watch is in exemplary condition, albeit with one quirk: the crystal is sapphire instead of PlexiGlas as is standard for the third series. Found only on fourth series ref. 2499s, the sapphire crystal and accompanying bezel was presumable installed by Patek Philippe in the 1980s according to Phillips, since the watch already had a sapphire crystal when it was sold in 1999. Lot 50 – Patek Phili...

Highlights from Jean-Claude Biver’s Collection on Show in Geneva SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet where he started his Nov 5, 2019

Highlights from Jean-Claude Biver’s Collection on Show in Geneva

Now the non-executive chairman of the watch division at LVMH, Jean-Claude Biver has enjoyed a remarkable career in the watch industry that has spanned some 45 years. That success has enabled him to build a timepiece collection that is both magnificent and diverse, ranging from vintage Patek Philippe to modern independent watchmaking. Now the entire collection will be on display for the first time at Phillips in Geneva, after which it will embark on a world tour. Bookends of Mr Biver’s career so far: a Royal Oak ref. 5402 ST by Audemars Piguet, where he started his career And a Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph Titled Jean-Claude Biver: A Retrospective. Share, Respect, Forgive, the exhibition includes two dozen watches – including some lovely Patek Philippe pocket watches – that are amongst the best examples of 20th century watchmaking. Notably, the collection also includes several watches by prominent independent watchmakers, many of which were relatively recent purchases. They include a Philippe Dufour Simplicity in rose gold – the exact watch we featured several weeks ago in fact – and a fresh-off-the-press Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain in platinum. According to an inside source, Mr Biver’s late-in-life interest in independent watchmaking, and also the Rolex Daytona “Zenith”, is the result of counsel from his son, Pierre, who is a specialist at Phillips’ London office, showing that the love of watches can be hereditary. A Patek Philippe Ref. 15...

Hype beasts – 5 of this year’s most unobtainable watches Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Sep 29, 2019

Hype beasts – 5 of this year’s most unobtainable watches

While there are some enthusiasts out there who feel as though the vast majority of new watches released at this year’s Baselworld and SIHH were a bit … safe, there were still some real stunners unveiled from legacy outfits like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. And, because the collective products of these three aforementioned … ContinuedThe post Hype beasts – 5 of this year’s most unobtainable watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Sep 16, 2019

Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Editor’s note: Recently, we talked about some sports watches with an integrated bracelet that could be great alternatives to the usual suspects from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. Thing is, though, there’s another awesome timepiece from one member of the horological holy trinity that also fits the bill for an awesome integrated sports timepiece – … ContinuedThe post Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Instead of watching TV when I was 10 years old, I took watches apart.” Celebrating 10 years of Louis Vuitton’s Spin Time with its creator, Michel Navas Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet May 5, 2019

“Instead of watching TV when I was 10 years old, I took watches apart.” Celebrating 10 years of Louis Vuitton’s Spin Time with its creator, Michel Navas

When it comes to watchmaking, it’s no stretch of a hairspring to say that Michel Navas has done it all. He was a key figure at Gérald Genta in the high complications team in the boom times of the ’90s. He also worked at Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. At Franck Muller, he masterminded the … ContinuedThe post “Instead of watching TV when I was 10 years old, I took watches apart.” Celebrating 10 years of Louis Vuitton’s Spin Time with its creator, Michel Navas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Grail material – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Nov 13, 2018

HANDS-ON: Grail material – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST

When the watchfam get together, it’s only a matter of time before the hot topic of grail watches rears its curious head. It’s no surprise, either, that for many collectors, their ultimate goal is usually found at the higher-end of the watchmaking spectrum. Perhaps a Patek Philippe or something of the Vacheron variety? Or maybe … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Grail material – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.