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Quill & Pad
The HYT Moon Runner is straight out of cyberpunk, blurring the line between terrestrial and interplanetary travel, with massive, diverse, and dark cityscapes filled with glowing neon. And then there’s its semi-spherical moonphase, capillary hour display, minutes, date and month. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look.
Quill & Pad
Wine can be so much more than just an enjoyable drink. It can link us to times, people, and places. A traditional concept for so-called anniversary wines is to celebrate a milestone, perhaps a birthday or wedding or even anniversary, with a fine bottle from the vintage of the birthyear or anniversary year in question. With that in mind, Ken Gargett shares a few suggestions.
Teddy Baldassarre
History First introduced in 1961, the Seiko Alpinist was a significant milestone in the Japanese brand's history It was the first ‘Sports Watch’ for Seiko. Like all great watch designs, it was created with a purpose in mind. The Alpinist was geared up to take on the great outdoors with Japanese mountain climbers. It needed to be rugged and legible. In this story, we will aim to share the full Seiko Alpinist lineup (going back some!). And then finally, although we think you will be sold within the first paragraph or two - why you should consider one! Let’s get into it. In 1961 we saw the first Alpinist, the Laurel. It is, in collecting circles, the holy grail Alpinist! Produced in black and cream dials, it was categorized by the now iconic arrow markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9. Later in 1963 saw the introduction of the Alpinist Champion 850, this Alpinist reference was instantly recognizable by its bold central lines which extended to the hour markers. A year later in 1964, it was time for the gold variation, the “85899” (interestingly it did not boast the central hour markings like the previous reference). Many, many years later in 1995, we were presented with the Red Alpinist, with the now legendary red writing at 6 o’clock and Arabic numerals at 12, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10. The early 2000s saw the introduction of the Alpinist 8f56 which used the same inner bezel compass as the 1995 Prospex, and there was even a limited edition of 500 pieces in a blue dial made for SS...
Worn & Wound
A few weeks ago, Zach Weiss told us about a little watch from Vario with a neat party trick. The Versa is actually two (quartz) watches in one, and thanks to a hinge, the dials can be flipped around to your liking, giving the owner options for a second time zone, or just a fun tactile sensation that is rarely seen at the Versa’s modest price point. Now, in a proverbial “Hold my beer…” moment, Hamilton has introduced a watch in their Face-2-Face series, a Jazzmaster that’s somehow both a business and a party on the front and back thanks to a clever rotating case design. The Face-2-Face III continues a line that Hamilton has been working with since 2013, creating elaborate double-sided dial watches within the updated Art Deco framework of the Jazzmaster collection. These watches take a maximalist approach that is the antithesis of Hamilton’s pilot and military watch bread and butter, but in doing so serve as a reminder of the brand’s sometimes surprising ability to create a design that is truly off the wall. This is the brand that created the X-01, after all. The Face-2-Face III starts with a 44mm case that can be flipped around on its axis by the wearer to display one of two distinct dials. The primary display is for time telling and chronograph functionality, while the secondary dial provides a view of the movement and a series of scales that one can use in concert with the chronograph. The architecture of the main dial is multi-layered, creating a sense ...
Worn & Wound
When you were a kid, did you ever attempt that prank where you’d move the clock in the classroom ahead in an effort to trick the teacher into letting you out of class early? I feel like that’s a thing that almost every kid has tried, or at least it feels that way. It’s one of those activities that’s burned into our collective consciousness from sitcoms, comic strips, and stories told in the school cafeteria whether or not you were an active participant. This is what the latest release from Timex immediately made me think of. It’s playful and almost subversive in the way it taps into your inner juvenile delinquent. The new watch is a collaboration with Pop Trading Co., a Dutch apparel company I was heretofore unfamiliar with that is deeply rooted in skateboarding culture. The watch, dubbed simply the Timex MK1 x Pop Trading Co. takes the familiar 36mm Timex field watch design and shifts the hours such that the “1” is at the 12:00 position, “2” is at 1:00, and so on around the dial. Pop’s unique wordmark, a grouping of the letter “P” in a square with an “O” at the center, is recreated on the dial with the hand stack standing in for the “O.” A black resin case matches the tone of the dial and keeps the focus on the unusual layout. There’s no other way to say this, but looking at the dial of the Timex x Pop collab is an immediately disorienting and disconcerting experience. It really reminds you, if you look at watches everyday, like we do...
Deployant
SLGA021 is the latest Grand Seiko watch borrowing from Lake Suwa. Looking upon the dial, one immediately recalls gently lapping waves wafting over wind-swept water. This “Lake Suwa” pattern was initially seen in 2021’s SLGA007. For SLGA021, it is finished in a deep blue that reads nearly black in lower light settings, capturing the look of Lake Suwa just before dawn. Against this dark base are broad markers and hands, all faceted and beautifully finished to emphasize clarity, beauty, and overall legibility.
Time+Tide
The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III is released 10 years after the original version. The Face-2-Face III ditches the oval shape for a round one. It’s limited to 999 pieces. Hamilton definitely aren’t the first brand to come to mind when the topic of reversible watches comes up. However, as more independent brands tackle the flipping … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IWC usually brings to mind the stern, sporty range of military-inspired pilot’s watches, and occasionally the suave dressiness of one of their Portugeisers. Often under-appreciated is the Portofino collection - a group of watches which pay homage to one of the most classic eras in watchmaking history. With elegance and detail-oriented excellence in spades, the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
No matter how tasteful your watch collection, no matter how stuffed your portfolio is with blue chip stocks like no-date Subs, pre-Moon Speedys, or the perfect Cartier Tank, there’s probably a black sheep lurking somewhere. Your questionable choices. Your dark secrets. The one that’s horribly out of fashion, objectively unattractive, or just plain bizarre. Be … ContinuedThe post Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
There was a time when viewers didn't consciously pay that much attention to what kind of wristwatches movie characters wore. This often meant that actors wore their personal watches on set, sometimes even when it didn't suit the movie. Today placing a wristwatch in a big film is big business, which also changes the types of timepieces characters now wear.
Time+Tide
What comes to mind when you think of Louis Vuitton? Is it leather bags and wallets? Cream coloured trim? Or maybe a set of high-end luggage for travelling around the world? What if I told you what you should be thinking of is a watch collection with an iconic and flexible design? That’s what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023. The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project. The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.
Worn & Wound
Watches can be tricky things to judge without getting some real world wrist time. Details like their scale or finishing details can be lost in even the best of images, and that’s to say nothing of more intangible things, like their heft or the way the bracelet wraps around your wrist. Try as we might, we still sometimes end up writing a watch off, or worse still, prematurely lauding it, before allowing enough hands-on time to appropriately confront our biases. These watches have a way of coming back to us, and like many things in life, a way of surprising us after the fact. With each example, we hope to learn a bit more about our blind spots, and take a bit more pause when scouting the landscape ahead. These are some examples of watches that surprised me after their initial launch, and what I learned from the experience. Jump into the comments below to share your thoughts and experiences. The IWC Tribute to 3705: Learning to Ignore the Numbers IWC has ridden their Pilot and Big Pilot ranges heavily in recent years, and while I enjoy the aesthetic of these watches, I’ve never been fond of the on-wrist experience with any of them. When I first saw the Tribute to 3705, I was quick to dismiss it based on some of the numbers, predominantly the thickness measurement north of 15mm. But then I got my hands on one, and it was the watch that triggered a reassessment of how I think about the numbers around watches. I even wrote an article implying you to do the same. The Tribut...
SJX Watches
Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...
Time+Tide
When asked to give my thoughts on which watch brand “won” 2022, I feared for a second that it might be a trick question. That’s because, for me at least, the answer is so forehead-slappingly obvious that you’d need to perform all sorts of mental gymnastics to conceive of any vaguely credible challengers. Last year, … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega – here are five reasons why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Two dive watches have long battled for the title of the original diver’s watch: the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Technicalities can drag this debate into murky deep waters, but irrefutably the pair are the founding blueprints of what we all expect from a dive watch. Born in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms has … ContinuedThe post What is so special about the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When I think of digital watches, my mind immediately goes to a display carousel stocked with black plastic quartz watches priced at $9.99 at a discount superstore. What I don’t think of is the upper echelons of high horology, where the crafting of mechanical masterpieces is akin to religion. Yet here is where the breathtaking … ContinuedThe post The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a truly high-end digital watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
A common question in watch servicing/restoration is, "Who does the 'best' work?" In a word (or three), what is meant here is superficial case refinishing. And in other words: huge chamfers on Rolex cases, perfectly flat surfaces, and well executed sunburst patterns. And that's got Ashton Tracy ranting. Find out why here!
Time+Tide
RZE cemented themselves in my mind as one of the best value microbrands when they released their Valour 38 field watch for under US$300, and their latest release only solidifies that title with some exciting new features. The RZE Ascentus GMT merges their well-established design style with sensible dimensions, and bang-for-buck features with a little … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Ascentus GMT delivers serious bang-for-buck in a titanium case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: This article was originally published back in January earlier this year, but, with our recent list of the team’s GADA (go anywhere do anything) watch picks, this article came back to mind. Two daily wearers, with competetive specs and their own tradeoffs. A very solid match-up, dive back into the debate below. When the … ContinuedThe post GADA-OFF: The Longines Spirit Titanium vs the Tudor BB58. Which is the better daily wearer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The last couple of GPHGs were hit by COVID, but the 2022 GPHG was finally again an event and a party as it should be! Tout le monde was in Geneva, celebrating watchmaking at its finest. Here are our thoughts on the winners and how well we did at predicting them.
Time+Tide
When you think of iconic Formula 1 liveries, the John Player Special hues of black and gold gracing Lotus’ cars through the ’70s and ’80s must surely come to mind. While the boosted, turbo monsters like Ayrton Senna’s 98T roared the streets of Monaco, Heuer was the name of the game in terms of wristwear. … ContinuedThe post The new TAG Heuer Carrera in yellow gold is a gentleman’s racing chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When you think of a GMT watch with a blue dial, your mind probably goes to one of many sports watch classics. Having almost nothing in common with those is the new Speake-Marin collaboration with Watches of Switzerland - the One & Two Dual Time Limited Editions. Produced to pay tribute to the London origins … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Speake-Marin x Watches of Switzerland One & Two Dual Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With a collection name like Big Bang, the word “discrete” usually would not come to mind. But the Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey and its monochromatic look provides a stealthier aesthetic within the collection. As an industry leader in material innovation, we often see bold colours and designs from Hublot. But with … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Some say that it’s a fashion faux-pas to mix black with brown, but rules are meant to be broken. Just as steel and gold can work together if you’ve got the attitude, a two-tone colour scheme of black and brown can bring some gloriously retro vibes to your wrist, sharing in the indulgent and decadent … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Jacob & Co don’t really make watches. What they specialise in is wrist-bound manifestations of the American Dream. The brand’s watches tend to be buried alive in diamonds or tricked out in mind-boggling complications. Sometimes they combine both at the same time. You can’t describe them as mere status symbols. They’re more like flashing neon … ContinuedThe post How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Racing watches are some of the most desirable and historically significant models that have ever been released. While tool watches meant for the military and divers have mostly lost their original purpose, the exhilarating themes and overt extravagance of a racing chronograph is still as relevant to motorsport today as it was in the 1960s. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Racing is a stimulating blast of organised chaos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The new Wayne Enterprises x Uncrate Collab BR 03-92 is designed as if straight from the mind of the Caped Crusader.
Time+Tide
“Saddam’s chandelier was the size of a two-car garage,” wrote the late P.J. O’Rourke in a piece on Saddam Hussein’s taste in interior design. “If a reason to invade Iraq was wanted – felony decorating would have done.” It’s this sort of dictator chic that springs to mind when confronted by the maniacal excess of … ContinuedThe post Modified with the dial of a Rolex Daytona, this iPhone is the ideal gift for a lunatic despot. Here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When I learned that Grand Seiko had announced the SBGJ269 with a pink dial as an Australian limited edition, it’s fair to say I lost my mind.The post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ269 ‘Pink Flannel’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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