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Panerai Introduces the Luminor BiTempo PAM01360 and PAM01361 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Aug 31, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor BiTempo PAM01360 and PAM01361

Traditionally all about vintage-inspired, “Marina Militare” dive watches, Panerai has recently been rolling out complications with a minimalist, contemporary execution, such as the recent Luminor pepertual calendar. Sharing a similar aesthetic perhaps more practical – and certainly more affordable – is the new Luminor BiTempo PAM 1360 and PAM 1361, a GMT wristwatch with striking baby-blue accents on a blue or black dial. The PAM 1361 with a radially-brushed blue dial Initial thoughts Given its large diameter and clean dial, the Luminor accommodates complications well while still maintaining its characteristic minimalist style – if the additions are integrated properly. Panerai managed that with the BiTempo, which manages to incorporate a date, second time zone, and power reserve indicator without hindering the recognisable Panerai aesthetic. In fact, the BiTempo could pass for a time-only Luminor from across a room. That said, the second time zone isn’t a new complication for the brand – the movement is an existing calibre – so the novelty is mainly in the facelift that changes dial details like the enlarged date display and blue accents. While I appreciate that the baby blue indicators are legible, I find the colour overly pastel for the low-key, military-inspired styling. Legible both day and night Twin time zones The BiTempo has a 44 mm Luminor 1950 case with its trademark crown guard. The “sandwich” dial has the signature Luminor layout with ov...

Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures Du Monde: An Exquisite Double-Signed Trip Around The World Quill & Pad
Aug 26, 2022

Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures Du Monde: An Exquisite Double-Signed Trip Around The World

Despite having made more than 100 pièces uniques among a grand total of approximately 1,500 timepieces spanning 42 years of a truly inventive career, independent watchmaker and co-founder of the A.H.C.I. Svend Andersen has become particularly known for the worldtimer, a complicated timepiece displaying the time in 24 time zones. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares a brief history of worldtimers and blue gold while looking at the Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures du Monde.

In Depth: Ulysse Nardin Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Utterly bizarre Aug 25, 2022

In Depth: Ulysse Nardin Freak S

Utterly bizarre and thoroughly ingenious when it debuted in March 2001, the Freak remains avant-garde even two decades later. But unlike the highly modern creations from brands like De Bethune and Urwerk, the Freak arguably gets less credit than it deserves, simply because Ulysse Nardin isn’t a niche, independent watchmaker. But that takes nothing away from the concept, which has been made more avant-garde than ever. Launched earlier this year, the Freak S is now the flagship model in the Freak line-up. In a first for a Freak, it reimagines the trademark carousel display, which now carries twin inclined balance wheels linked by a differential. Initial thoughts The landmark creation of the modern-day Ulysse Nardin (UN) brand, Freak was and still is interesting because it turns conventional movement construction on its head. Most of the moving parts are mounted onto a carousel on the dial that doubles up as the minute hand, while under the dial sits a massive mainspring that occupies most of the case volume. No other watch combines unorthodox form and function like the Freak even though it was launched in 2001, well before most of today’s best known avant-garde timepieces. That was four years before Urwerk unveiled its satellite-cube hour display, for instance, ensuring the Freak’s place as a pioneering creation. The Freak S (left) and the original Freak from 2001 While the essence of the Freak has been mostly retained over the various iterations since its launch, ...

Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display Time+Tide
Hamilton s digital darling has Aug 23, 2022

Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display

First released in a gold and red variant echoing the 1970s original, the PSR has seen numerous iterations over the last two years. We covered two blacked-out models at the start of the year, one of which had close ties to another reboot – the Matrix franchise. The new Hamilton PSR with a green hybrid … ContinuedThe post Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 packs space-age looks and an important new movement Time+Tide
Fortis Stratoliner S-41 packs space-age Aug 20, 2022

The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 packs space-age looks and an important new movement

It’s always an exciting time when a company introduces a brand new model and a brand new movement at the same time, and it’s no different when it comes to the Fortis Stratoliner S-41. The WERK 17 movement, a collaborative effort between Fortis and La Joux-Perret, was space-tested before the release of the Stratoliner, which … ContinuedThe post The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 packs space-age looks and an important new movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” Seiko Aug 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa”

Seiko is launching a new Australasian Limited Edition from the Prospex range that is inspired by one of the most stunning holiday destinations in Australia – Noosa in Queensland. The colourway for this timepiece is the seemingly always on-trend black and blue but adds popping bright yellow accents. The dial has a very subtle texture … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aug 10, 2022

Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon

It’s the tail-end of the 1980s, and you and your stockbroker buddies are ripping down the Autobahn in the two fastest cars in the world – the Ferrari F40 and Porsche 959. Suddenly, you notice a flash of yellow in your rear-view mirror, which disappears in front of you as quickly as it appeared behind. … ContinuedThe post Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition: The Subtle Difference Is Black Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition Aug 9, 2022

Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition: The Subtle Difference Is Black

For a relatively small manufacture like Armin Strom, scaling the production is not an easy thing, nor something that is always as desirable as it looks. However, creating watches that remain virtually unobtainable for most (potential) clients also isn't. That is why Armin Strom is already releasing the second edition of the Orbit, which is also limited to 25 pieces.

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Aug 2, 2022

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions

Best known for supplying customised watches to air force squadrons, Breitling has less frequently made watches for civilian aviators, but the brand’s latest is a pair of watches created in partnership with one of the world’s best carriers. Each limited to 100 pieces, the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 Singapore Airlines and Navitimer Automatic 38 Singapore Airlines are both dressed in the blue and gold livery of city state’s flag carrier. Initial thoughts For some two decades, Singapore Airlines (SIA) has consistently been ranked amongst the world’s best carriers by airline consultancy Skytrax, so the the tie-up is certainly a good one for Breitling. Fortunately SIA’s corporate colours are a pleasing blue and gold that work well on the Navitimer. The gold accents on the dial give it a slightly more retro feel than the standard models in steel, which uniformly have rhodium-plated markers and hands. For anyone who already likes either Navitimer model but wants something a bit more striking, the SIA editions certainly have their appeal. While the gold accents are appealing, they are the only element that distinguishes the dial of the SIA editions. The chronograph, for instance, is almost identical to the standard Navitimer 41 mm with a dark blue dial, with the only difference being the gold-plated hands and indices. This similarity to the respective standard models is probably the only shortcoming of either edition. Each edition is priced almost 10% more expensiv...

Emmanuel Breguet Talks Fakes In The Time Of Abraham-Louis Breguet And Much More Quill & Pad
Breguet Talks Fakes Jul 28, 2022

Emmanuel Breguet Talks Fakes In The Time Of Abraham-Louis Breguet And Much More

Jan Lidmaňský interviewed Emmanuel Breguet, vice president and head of patrimony at Breguet. He chatted with this direct descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet about fakes in the time of Breguet, which watch is still missing from the Breguet Museum’s collection, how many pieces the company has acquired at auction over the last 20 years, and much more.

What’s it like to wear a Casio Edifice for a week Time+Tide
Casio Edifice Jul 24, 2022

What’s it like to wear a Casio Edifice for a week

Casio Edifice is a brand we’ve been taken a closer look at over the past couple of months, out of intrigue for their price-to-performance ratio. The Edifice collection as a whole has something for everyone – from simple three-handers to solar pieces with busy dials, the latter of which I spent (nearly) a week with. … ContinuedThe post What’s it like to wear a Casio Edifice for a week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The Legacy Machine Perpetual From MB&F; Hodinkee
MB&F Jul 14, 2022

Introducing: The Legacy Machine Perpetual From MB&F;

Max Büsser and his cohorts at his horological think tank, MB&F;, have, without question, created a bewildering variety of watches over the years that have used horology as a jumping off point for the exploration of a highly idiosyncratic vocabulary of watchmaking, in which mechanics put themselves at the service of an aesthetics that freely mingles everything from pop culture to science fiction to sometimes alarming arachnomorphism, and beyond. However, what MB&F; thus far has largely not addressed itself to is the world of traditional complications – other than the tourbillon, used by MB&F; for its aesthetic impact, you will look in vain for anything beyond a simple calendar or a moonphase. Now, however, MB&F; and Büsser have gotten into the complications game in a big way: they’ve launched their own perpetual calendar, and, what’s more, they’ve done so with an in-house movement, with a variation on the perpetual calendar mechanism unlike anything we’ve seen so far.

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary “Sector” Dial SJX Watches
Casio n Jul 11, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary “Sector” Dial

A venerable retailer of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman marks its 50th year in business. Still in its landmark Ginza store that curiously sits slightly below street level, the Tokyo retailer has announced a series of one-off and limited edition watches to mark the occasion. The latest commemorative edition is a pair from Habring², the Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary and Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary, both featuring a discreet champagne-tone sector dial with thoughtful details. The flagship Shellman store in Tokyo’s Ginza district Initial thoughts Habring² offers honest quality and solid engineering, which makes it tangible qualities impeachable, especially in its price segment. So the appeal of a specific Habring² watch boils down to its specific design. While sector dials are common today, perhaps too common, Shellman was a pioneer in this type of design, having debuted its first Habring² with a sector dial in 2017, well before the style became a fad. For that reason, these anniversary watches have a stronger resonance than the average sector dial. The time-only And the two are also intrinsically appealing because of their careful design. At a distance both appear to be typical “sector” dials – attractive but more of the same. Up close, however, the dial designs are both smartly executed with strong attention to detail. The leaf-shape hands, for instance, are a familiar shape, but here they are heavier than usual, giving the ...

Feature-packed models from Casio Edifice Time+Tide
Casio Edifice After our initial Jul 3, 2022

Feature-packed models from Casio Edifice

After our initial overview of an all-encompassing Casio Edifice collection, we thought we’d take a closer look at what they do best – pieces packed with features and functionality. Through clever integrations of their many quirks, they each have the ability to pair with your phone via Bluetooth, which will bring out the best of … ContinuedThe post Feature-packed models from Casio Edifice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Yema debuts new refined diver fit for Kal-El – the Superman 500 Time+Tide
Yema Jul 2, 2022

VIDEO: Yema debuts new refined diver fit for Kal-El – the Superman 500

With a name like Superman, the Yema diver, which originates from the `60s, has to live up to its robust nomenclature. Revamped and refined, the Superman 500 now boasts a 50 ATM depth rating, with two case sizes and dial/bezel colours to choose from. Finding a dive watch with rich heritage, 500 metres of water-resistance, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Yema debuts new refined diver fit for Kal-El – the Superman 500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated Time+Tide
Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no Jun 15, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated

Big, bold and built like a tank. That’s the condensed version of the new Fortis Marinemaster M-44, which is a take on the best adventure watch possible by the brand from Grenchen. Normally lauded for their flights to the stratosphere and beyond, the Marinemaster is an under-the-radar choice from an already under-the-radar brand. From the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots) Time+Tide
Oris launches Jun 14, 2022

INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots)

A strong selling point for Oris watches are their value-driven pricing. The majority of their watches are priced under $4,000 USD, their Sellita-driven pieces the most approachable (closer to $2,000 USD) and their in-house calibre watches not much more (just below $4,000 USD). But the accessibility of their pieces is not limited to competitive pricing, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jun 14, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz

Long a leading player in the arena of high-end quartz watches, Grand Seiko’s flagship offering is the 9F quartz movement that is built with an attention to detail comparable to that of its mechanical calibres. Beyond the almost-artisanal production, 9F movements are all about accuracy – the standard movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year. Now Grand Seiko a limited edition equipped with a specially-adjusted 9F calibre, the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary SBGP017 “Blue Clouds”. Signified by the star emblem on the dial, the movement within is regulated to run within five seconds a year – an average of less than a half second deviation a month. Initial thoughts Watches with colourful, textured dials are almost the norm at Grand Seiko, which has rolled out enough limited editions that such watches seem almost more common than their plain dial counterparts. The SBGP017 dial has a familiar texture, so at first glance it seems like yet another Grand Seiko limited edition. But a closer look reveals the fact that the SBGP017 is unusual. For one, it’s quartz. Grand Seiko quartz watches rarely have patterned dials and when they do, the dials typically have motifs made up of repeating symbols. In contrast, the abstract pattern found on the SBGP017 is similar to that found on Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive models. Put another way, the SBGP017 is an atypical Grand Seiko limited edition because it’s quartz but has the aesthetic of a me...

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Bradley Taylor eventually returned Jun 14, 2022

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria

Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including  “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Jun 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition

If Grand Seiko is known for one thing only (and they’re certainly not), it’s their breathtaking dials, and their latest limited edition pushes that tradition further skyward with the release of the high-precision, quartz-powered SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. This light blue-dialled beauty showcases the brand’s exquisite finishing work, with an ethereal, pillowy texture … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen Time+Tide
Jun 10, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen

Hey Everyone, It’s Ricardo and I’m jumping into the Friday Wind Down today.  This week, things died down a bit after the all-out blitz of releases we saw prior. Which in turn opened my schedule up to finally experience what some have called a trip to watch Mecca. And that is the recently opened AP … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jun 3, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury

Mr McUtchen, a.k.a McSteamy, continues to leave me green with envy stateside. His latest escapades abroad include having an oceanside chat with actor Patrick Dempsey on all things TAG Heuer in Monaco for the Grand Prix – which he got to enjoy in a private box as well. It’s good to be the king… As … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Jun 2, 2022

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend

The first rule of half-arsed journalism is that if something happens twice it’s a coincidence and if it happens three times then it’s a trend. On that basis the theme of the past week has been bronze-cased watches with blue dials. Along came the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue, followed in quick succession with the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.