Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Omega Constellation 36mm and 39mm
Three new references from the fifth-generation men's collection.
Results for The Silver Snoopy Award
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independents and the Esoteric at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Taking place on July 10, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X is the one of the first watch auctions in Hong Kong in 2020, a sign of the much-delayed auction calendar due to the pandemic. But the Phillips catalogue is still 269 lots strong, with a little bit of everything. We took a look at some of the notable complicated watches last week, including the magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph that’s a strong value buy in uber-complications. Now, we’ll take a look at some of the timepieces by independent watchmakers as well as a handful of interesting, esoteric, and well-priced watches. You can find the rest of the catalogue here. Lot 806 – Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” This sits squarely in the category of weird-but-cool watches. Extremely large at 44 mm, with massive lugs and an even larger crown guard, the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” is a dive watch rated to 3,000 m – three-thousand metres, or 9,800 feet – with a sharply finished, tourbillon-equipped movement. The combination is paradoxical, and slightly silly, but the watch has a peculiar charm, no doubt helped by its affordability (with a low estimate a little under US$20,000). Made in 2006, a time when diving tourbillons were fashionable and when Girard-Perregaux was still a family-run firm owned by the Macalusos – the certificate for the watch is signed by the late Luigi “Gino” Macaluso – the Sea Hawk tourbillon was a limited edition of 32 w...
SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces the Type 1 Slim X
Founded only a decade ago, Ressence has already left an indelible impression on watchmaking. Lauded for a design philosophy that is centred on legibility, wearability and intuitive function, the brand’s unusual perspective is thanks to its founder Benoît Mintiens, an industrial designer by profession. To mark its 10th year, Ressence has debuted the Type 1 Slim X, the first of four watches in the commemorative Collection X – “X” being a Roman “10”. Limited to 40 watches, the new watch is essentially identical to the standard Type 1 Slim, but face-lifted with an intriguing dial in a single shade of olive green but finished with contrasting surfaces to achieve a two-tone effect. The remaining Collection X watches will be dressed in a similar shade of green. Initial thoughts I have long been fascinated by Ressence and its watches. The first time I laid eyes on a Ressence, I assumed that it was just an electronic watch with a high-pixel density display; the dial on it was truly flat. When I found out what it was – the effect was due to the oil-filled time display chamber – surprise was an understatement. They are in a class of their own in terms of design, and are, in fact, great examples of “postmodern” mechanical watchmaking. The dark olive dial on the anniversary Type 1 Slim is a first for the brand. The colour is attractive but not as widely used as I would like, with the exception of military-style timepieces, which this is definitely not. To see i...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Mido Ocean Star GMT: Mido Introduces a Watch for the Ocean Traveler..?
While this new GMT is primarily based off the current Ocean Star line of watches, it comes with a few tricks up its sleeve to set it apart
Time+Tide
Which Grand Seiko Snowflake is right for you? Four models that show the stunning dial’s diversity
Editor’s note: When people talk about the Grand Seiko Snowflake as being one watch, they are in fact forgoing the many and varied shades of snow that Grand Seiko has showered us with since the OG became almost a pillar in itself. Here, we choose a Snowflake for every season, to show the nuance and … ContinuedThe post Which Grand Seiko Snowflake is right for you? Four models that show the stunning dial’s diversity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
My Watch Story: The Perfect Jaeger-LeCoultre Graduation Watch by Lucy Kahn
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097
Breguet is one of the grandest names in watchmaking, and mostly makes watches that are rooted in its history. The aptly named Tradition exudes, well, tradition. Modelled on the souscription pocket watch created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the wide-ranging collection has been gently modernised in recent years. The newly-announced Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 continues that trend, with a dark blue guilloché dial against a grey movement. Initial thoughts This version of the Tradition 7097 is possibly my favourite yet, mostly because of the off-centre dial in blue. Engine-turned by hand, the blue dial is striking against the monochromatic movement. And it looks especially appealing when compared against the earlier versions that have plainer and more conventional silvered dials, which offer less contrast against the movement. But as with all other Tradition watches, there’s a nit to pick here: the serial number plaque on the dial makes it look a bit cluttered, especially since the dial is small to begin with. One solution would be to put the serial numbers beside the Breguet logo, as done on the female Tradition Dame 7038. And while I like the retrograde seconds, its position feels awkward as it cuts into the sub-dial. Though intersecting indicators are a feature in some historical Breguet pocket watches, the face of the Tradition is a bit too small to accommodate it comfortably. The white gold case is in classic Breguet style a delicately-fluted ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #182: American Watches: Discussing A Legacy and the Future
Kaz and TBWS Contributor Baird discussing the past, present, and potential future of American watchmaking! Also huge shoutout to our Patreon Audio Wrist Check Shout outs: Just2Ticks and Chris A!
SJX Watches
Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Nocturne
German independent watchmaker had a hit when it debuted the Kudoke 2 last year. Combining hand-engraved decor with an affordable price tag, the watch was well received by enthusiasts while also enjoying critical acclaim, winning the Petite Aiguille – the category for watches under 10,000 Swiss francs – at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The Kudoke 2 Nocturne is a limited edition variant of the standard model in a run of only 20 pieces, a nod to the 20th year of this century. While the standard version features a silver-and-gold palette, the Nocturne is dressed in shades of grey, both on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts The Kudoke 2 was one of last year’s more compelling watches for me. Not only is it priced well, but the watch has a refined yet German aesthetic that’s pleasing. The watch is clean, with no superfluous elements to distract from its charming simplicity, yet equipped with several attractive classical details. And the Nocturne has a slightly more modern look than the original, despite having the same design. The movement, developed with the help of Habring2, has a unique style and excellent finish, especially considering the price of €8,665, or a little under US$10,000, which is the same price as standard version. With artful hand engraving and an original movement, the watch screams value proposition. A new face Having an identical design as the standard model, the Nocturne retains the clean, symmetrical look of the...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Ollech & Wajs are the tool watch company you should check out if utilitarian is your thing
This week on Micro Mondays, we are looking at a brand that is a little older than most of the watch manufacturers we feature in this column - Ollech & Wajs. And what a story the company has … This might be one of the best-kept secrets in the watch industry, with the Zurich-based company … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Ollech & Wajs are the tool watch company you should check out if utilitarian is your thing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: The History Of FPJ Tourbillons (By FPJ Himself)
Francois-Paul Journe tells the story of his tourbillons.
Video
The Record Breaking Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Automatic
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Jay Gatsby of the class of 2020 is in the (Art Deco) house, meet the Longines Heritage Classic ‘Tuxedo’ and ‘Tuxedo Chronograph’
Longines has had quite the 2020. First came the excellent Khaki Green addition to the HydroConquest collection, and then we scored an entirely new and very exciting collection in the Longines Spirit. And now, to round out something new and something updated, comes something from the past – but, we think you’ll agree, very much … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jay Gatsby of the class of 2020 is in the (Art Deco) house, meet the Longines Heritage Classic ‘Tuxedo’ and ‘Tuxedo Chronograph’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What kind of blue is the new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight actually? 4 side-by-side shots with the Pelagos, Patek, Lange and more…
Well, one of 2020’s worst-kept secrets is out of the bag – Tudor has gone and released a brand new iteration of the best watch it makes. Ladies and gents, introducing the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Ref.M79030b-0001. Now, we’ll skip all the conjecture and polarisation that this watch has already managed to conjure up in … ContinuedThe post What kind of blue is the new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight actually? 4 side-by-side shots with the Pelagos, Patek, Lange and more… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine
The HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine offers a spectacular solid gold moon phase sitting above the sparkling blue aventurine quartz dial and paired with an in-house Arnold & Son mechanical calibre. Demonstrating its British history and Swiss savoir-faire, Arnold & Son presents the HM Perpetual Moon with a beautifully decorative blue aventurine quartz dial, limited toRead More
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The B&R; BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM has a proper party trick when the lights go out
When it comes to tool watches, there are few brands out there as dedicated to instrument aesthetics as Bell & Ross. Although they may lack centuries of heritage, starting off in the early ’90s with Sinn making their watches, they’ve endeavoured not to be left behind in the everlasting race for technological advancement in watchmaking. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The B&R; BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM has a proper party trick when the lights go out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
An Open Letter To Watch Brand CEOs: Why You Should Enter The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The time is now, according to GaryG, for large watch brands to seize the opportunity to make a real difference to the health of the mechanical watch industry and the prosperity of their brands. He thinks that 2020 is the year for CEOs to commit to entering their best new pieces in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
Video
The End of Pride & Pinion.
Time+Tide
The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price
There’s very little that hasn’t been done in watchmaking. That’s part of what makes vintage-inspired new releases so popular among watch enthusiasts, especially for diving styles. Mido’s Ocean Star range has sat in this bracket, earning a good reputation for solidly built and classically handsome dive watches for their affordable cost; however, they toed the … ContinuedThe post The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Chillout TGIF: Micro Four Thirds camera systems – the best for watch photography?
Why we think Micro Four Thirds (MFT) is one of the best systems to photograph watches. With samples and experiences from Peter Chong & Peter Nievaart.
Time+Tide
OPINION: Will COVID hammer the final nail into the coffin of the dress watch?
Having moved house last year, I finally got around to collecting the last remaining items from our storage facility last weekend. All that was left was a forlorn collection of those random bits and pieces that you barely use, but can’t quite stomach throwing out. There was a box of bedraggled Christmas decorations, a tennis … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Will COVID hammer the final nail into the coffin of the dress watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT
Richard Mille adds a sixth chapter to their widely beloved family of chronographs with the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT that has its bezel made of Cermet
SJX Watches
John McGonigle Debuts with the Oileán H-B1
Hailing from Ireland’s most famous watchmaking family, John McGonigle is best known for being one half of the two brothers behind McGonigle Watches (and another brother is the chief instructor at the world-class watch school in Cambodia). Having decided to strike out on his own last year – an amicable parting resulting from logistical challenges of working with his brother who is based in Switzerland – Mr McGonigle has just launched his own brand, Oileán, Gaelic for “island”, a nod to his home of Ireland. Pronounced “ill-awn”, the brand is making its debut with the Oileán H-B1, a triple-calendar chronograph powered by a new-old-stock Valjoux 88 movement. John McGonigle Initial thoughts Well regarded by collectors and peers, Mr McGonigle’s first watch under his new brand has a vintage movement inside a titanium case. It’s a manageable 40 mm in diameter, but slightly thick at 14.2 mm high, an inevitable consequence of the Valjoux 88. While the Valjoux 88 is not novel – it was widely used in the past – the calibre has been reworked a high standard. That includes several bridges and steel parts made from scratch, as well as hand finishing of all components. Because it is a triple-calendar chronograph “I’ve tried to apply the same rigour to this watch as I used to for the high complications I worked on in the past,” says Mr McGonigle. Going by Mr McGonigle’s past work it is no doubt done very well. The look is modern – the dial is smoked sa...
Video
The Mido Ocean Star GMT: A Value-Driven GMT Dive Watch I HODINKEE Shop Spotlight
Revolution
The King is Dead – Long Live The King!
Ross Povey tracks the lineage of Rolex’s most regal Oyster, the Air King, and discovers its reign has been nothing short of remarkable.
Revolution
Zooming In With Carlos Rosillo of Bell & Ross on the BR 03-92 Diver Full Lume
Bell & Ross CEO, Carlo Rosillo tells us all about the new BR 03-92 Diver Full Lume.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 with Smoked Dials
When it was launched in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet became the most-talked-about new releases of the year, and also of the most panned, largely for the way it was hyped before launch and the perceived plainness of the design. But Audemars Piguet is undeterred and affirmed its commitment to the new collection with the launch of a face-lifted Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph, featuring new dials with a smoked, graduated-colour finish, along with a variant in a two-colour gold case. The new Code 11.59 Selfwinding Initial thoughts The most frequent criticism against the Code 11.59 had to do with the rather bland dials of the base models. In contrast, the pricey, complicated models were the standouts of the collection, having fired enamel dials with a smoked finish (for the minute repeater and the flying tourbillon) or aventurine glass (for the perpetual calendar). Audemars Piguet doubtlessly realised the appeal of the smoked enamel dial, and followed up with the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition, which featured the same graduated, dark blue dial in enamel, but on a time-only watch. The downside of the enamel dial on the base model is a massive price premium of over 55%, or a bit over US$14,000. Evidence that Audemars Piguet is receptive to feedback, the new dials for the Code 11.59 show how a slight tweak can completely change the visual impact of a watch. It’s highly probable that if the Code 11.59 had been launched with smoked dials in the first plac...
Quill & Pad
The Purnell Escape II Double Tourbillon Comes To Life
Purnell’s latest model, Escape II, features two spherical tourbillons developed by Eric Coudray, the definitive expert in the field of three-dimensional multi-axis tourbillons. This is just one example of how the independent brand works with the best of the best in the watch industry to achieve such monumental timepieces. Martin Green reports after visiting the Swiss workshops.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition can actually improve your golf game
If we’re honest with ourselves, luxury sports watches aren’t actually designed to be used during sport. Sure, they are more robust than your typical dress watch, but the most adventurous situation they are designed to find themselves in might be diving into glittering Capri waters from the deck of a sailboat, maybe suffering a small … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition can actually improve your golf game appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video