Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom, A Collaboration With Devialet
The latest Ulysse Nardin hour striking watch: loud and proud.
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Hodinkee
Revolution
Introducing the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1
Greubel Forsey takes traditional watchmaking to an unprecendented new summit with the debut of the Hand Made 1, a watch that is 95 per cent made by hand.
Deployant
Review: The Golden Underdog – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in Pink Gold
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in pink gold.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces the Entirely Hand-Made Tourbillon Watch
The Hand Made 1 is a watch “95%” produced “using only hand-operated tools”, requiring some 6,000 hours, according to Greubel Forsey. That’s equivalent to three years of work, largely performed by a special team of watchmakers assembled by Greubel Forsey specifically for this project, along with independent specialists who produce certain components. Functionally, the Hand Made 1 is a straightforward timepiece – it shows the time, hours, minutes and seconds, and is equipped with a one-tourbillon regulator. The movement is made up of 272 parts, which is within the usual range for such a movement. The complexity of the watch comes from how it is made – by hand or by hand-operated tools – which is why only two to three examples will be produced per year. The genesis for the Hand Made 1 is the department within Greubel Forsey that produces prototypes, which are essentially one-off, hand-made watches. The same production techniques are applied to the Hand Made 1, except that they are taken to a far higher level, in order to create components that are produced with the same techniques as prototypes but to the same fit and finish as standard Greubel Forsey movements. So each screw is made on a manual lathe, and can take up to eight hours to complete. The case components are milled on a pantograph lathe, essentially a manually operated CNC machine that requires the operator to guide the cutting tool to by hand. And even the balance spring is rolled by a manua...
SJX Watches
The New Omega Museum is Open
Located around the corner from its old premises, the Omega Museum has just reopened within La Cité du Temps – “The City of Time” – an impressive glass and wood building designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, who has worked with the brand on several projects, including its new factory. Connected to the new Swatch brand headquarters via an aerial bridge, La Cité du Temps sits just behind Omega’s main building in Biel, a city about 90 minutes from Zurich by train. Appropriately, it is on a street named after Nicolas G. Hayek, founder of the Swatch Group, the Swiss watchmaking conglomerate that’s Omega’s parent company. La Cite du Temps, the horizontal building in the middle La Cite du Temps at right While the original museum was opened in 1983, making it the oldest watch brand museum in the world, the new museum sits on the second level of the five-story La Cité du Temps, with the Swatch Museum one floor above and another floor dedicated to temporary exhibitions. The new premises give the Omega Museum an expansive space to detail the watchmaker’s long and diverse history on a scale that was impossible in the museum’s former home, which it shared with the company canteen. The 64-window display that’s built like the links of a steel watch bracelet Each of the key themes in Omega history are captured in comprehensive exhibits, including being the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games, the Speedmaster Professional and the Moon landing – ...
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Watch Recommendations for the Tastebreakers, from Our Archives
In this week's Throwback Sundays, we celebrate the tastebreakers by sharing six watch recommendations that are overlooked by the masses.
Quill & Pad
Swatch Tresor Magique: The Watch Harry Potter Would Have Worn
The Swatch Tresor Magique might have a platinum case, but it looks like something Harry Potter would have appreciated wearing while attending classes at Hogwarts. However, there is more that is even notable about this watch, which Martin Green divulges here.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
Five panelists, three to four predicted winners, and a possible Aiguille d’Or winner: the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Mechanical Exception category has it all, including an atomic clock and another time indication that is likely to make you think you have taken LSD!
Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Episode 91: Ready For Adventure
The new Defender and how the guys try to stay physically ready for the next adventure
Revolution
The First Sin
Lust is a dangerous and highly appealing iniquity, and one that keeps the watch industry running like clockwork.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Hasta la Vista Revolver 8-Day Table Clock
A recent startup dedicated to creating unusual objects, The Unnamed Society makes its debut with a table clock shaped like the Colt Bisley Model revolver of the early 20th century. The clock is produced by L’Epee 1839, the Swiss clockmaker that is responsible for practically all of the unconventional and avant-garde mechanical clocks of recent years, most famously those designed by MB&F; but also Chanel. But it’s undoubtedly the success of MB&F;’s sci-fi clocks that have compelled various brands, old and new, to develop their own L’Epee 1839 clocks. Named Hasta la Vista, “goodbye” in Spanish, the clock is the shape and size of an actual revolver, measuring 350mm or just under 14 inches long. It’s made of steel and palladium-plated brass, and can be mounted on its accompanying base either via the grip or the barrel. Pictured here with the grip made of horn from the bighorn sheep, as well as engraving on the frame Mechanically it is identical to the 8-day clocks L’Epee 1839 has produced in other shapes and sizes. The time is indicated by two revolving cylinders – one each for the hours and minutes – that take the shape of the rear section of the pistol frame. The escapement, wheel train and mainspring are where the cylinder (which contains the bullets) would be. Winding is accomplished by a key that’s inserted into the end of the barrel. Though it’s a limited edition of 50, each clock can be customised with a variety of options offered for the g...
Quill & Pad
Punch Regional Release 8-9-8 Cuban Cigars: Immaculately Balanced From The Word Go
From Ken Gargett's first puff of the Punch Regional Release 8-9-8, it was clear that this was something seriously special: immediate and rich notes of roasted nuts, toasted biscuits. No issues with youth, no “elbows and knees.” Immaculately balanced from the word go!
Time+Tide
Is this the most accessible true worldtimer on the market right now? The Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer
Editor’s note: Christopher Ward is a name that pops up whenever someone is looking for a watch that offers a solid value proposition, and this remarkably well-priced worldtimer proves the point. Stylish times, no matter where you are in the world … Worldtimers - which allow you to, at a glance, quickly determine the time … ContinuedThe post Is this the most accessible true worldtimer on the market right now? The Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero C.01 x Collective
A new version of the El Primero, for a new kind of watch club.
Revolution
Gift from the Stars: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3
In between major technical breakthroughs, Jaeger-LeCoultre decides to dress its Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 with slivers from the stars.
Revolution
A. Lange & Söhne: Greater Than the Sum of its Parts
Wei Koh spends some quality time with Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne at the Hampton Court Concours d’Elegance.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): And The Moon Takes It
The 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Calendar and Astronomy category is for mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication. And this year all six watches have strong chances at the prize. Our panel isn't unanimous in selecting a winner, but close to it: the moon wins!
Revolution
The Tonneau: 10 Barrel-shaped Watches
Neither a round or square, the tonneau watch remains a popular, stylish option, proving curvy is sexy.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar
Having been one of the first brands to work with watch customiser Bamford Watch Department, Zenith has one gone one further with the Chronomaster El Primero Radar. Featuring a striking aesthetic reminiscent of the 1970s, it was designed by Bamford for Zenith, and will only be available at the watchmaker’s boutiques. In short, it is an official boutique edition designed by a former aftermarket customiser. Bamford Watch Department was founded by George Bamford, an entrepreneur who made a name for himself selling customised watches and clothing, but who also happens to be the son of a construction equipment tycoon. His watch division made its name customising Rolex watches, but has now become the official customiser for Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Bulgari, all companies of luxury conglomerate LVMH. According to Zenith, the red and brown livery of Chronomaster El Primero Radar was inspired by a 1916 pocket watch Mr Bamford spotted during a visit to Zenith’s factory in Le Locle. Mr Bamford used that to create the “retro-futuristic aesthetic” of the El Primero Radar. The dial is a graduated brown, while the sub-dial at three has five hashmarks that are the “negative of the [Zenith logo of a] star”, according to Mr Bamford. Dial aside the watch is identical to the standard Chronomaster El Primero, with a 42mm steel case that contains the El Primero 400 B movement. Key facts and price Chronomaster El Primero Radar (ref. 03.2082.400/02.R830) Diameter: 42mm Heigh...
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Creating The Iconic Enamel Dial Of The Patek Philippe Ref. 2526
An inside look at a special enamel dial and the modern artisans looking to recreate its original charm.
Quill & Pad
A Reader Asks: Should I Buy A Steel Rolex Daytona With Cerachrom Bezel (At Double The Retail Price)?
We recently received a message from a reader considering buying a stainless steel Rolex Daytona with ceramic bezel. He seems to have found a nice piece, box and papers, unworn, at a (seemingly) reasonable price. However, he asks, is it sensible to buy at double the retail price?
Time+Tide
Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow
Editor’s note: OK, yes, it seems as though every time you scroll through Instagram these days, it’s highly probable that your feed will be inundated with myriad “rainbow” bejewelled-bezel timepieces. And whether you’re for or against them, there’s no denying it – these bedazzled technicolour flex watches are firmly solidified in the zeitgeist of current … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Chronometry Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Is This Really About Precision?
The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève's 2019 Chronometry category awards mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving chronometry (precision timekeeping). Our panel clearly wishes that there were more empirical evidence for the claims of high precision and is split on the winner. What's your favorite?
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Hamilton Pilot Pioneer Mechanical
Hamilton revives a British classic, first made for the RAF.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite
When Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Gyrotourbillon in 2004, it was an incredibly exciting watch, and arguably marked the high water mark of Jaeger-LeCoultre as a maker of contemporary complications. Fifteen years on, the Gyrotourbillon has cycled through many iterations, most more complex or sophisticated than the original but none quite as revelatory. Variants include the compact and slightly more affordable Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon and the more recent Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpetuel. The latest to join the line-up is the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite, which is a third generation model dressed up with fired enamel, meteorite and aventurine. The chronograph sub-dial and digital counter are at nine o’clock, with the day-night display at three One of the most complicated versions of the Gyrotourbillon, the Gyrotourbillon 3 combines the double-axis tourbillon with a single-button chronograph with digital, instantaneous 60-minute counter as well as a day and night display. The tourbillon features two spherical , aluminium cages containing a cylindrical hairspring in the centre. The cages rotate in opposing directions and at a different rates, working to eliminate the gravitational errors caused by the changing position of the wearer’s wrist. And more importantly, it’s a compelling visual spectacle on the idea. Space rock and artisanal craft The sub-dial for the time at 12 o’clock features a meteorite centre ringed by an ...
Quill & Pad
Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier: One Of The Best Australian Reds
The top six Aussie reds? Ken Gargett thinks that most lists would include Penfolds Grange, Henschke Hill of Grace, and Bass Philip Reserve Pinot Noir, though such is its rarity (and price) that it tends to be more talked about than tasted. But there's one under-the-radar wine from the Canberra area that should also be on that list: Clonakilla's sensational Shiraz Viognier.
Revolution
The Greatest Watch You’ve Never Heard Of: Longines Nonius
The Longines Nonius was a valiant attempt in the late 1960s to crack the elusive puzzle of making the chronograph ever-more accurate.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer
Having made its debut two years ago with a dual-dial watch that combined an automatic and quartz movement, Klo & Co. is an unusual “microbrand”, having been started by a trio of young Filipino watch enthusiasts. The Manila-based brand has just unveiled the Alpesailer, a steel sports watch with an internal rotating bezel and an integrated bracelet. Head-on, the Alpesailer clearly derived from Gerald Genta’s famous octagonal design – think of it as a “Super Compressor” style homage to the Royal Oak. That being said, the bezel is actually brushed and round on top, with a polished octagonal base, bringing to mind the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While the watch wins no prizes for ingenious design, it’s well spec’ed and only US$400. Depth rated to 100m, the case measures 41mm wide and 12.5mm in height. It features a “Super Compressor” style design with an internal rotating bezel and twin crowns – one for winding and setting, the other for rotating the bezel. However, like most modern watches inspired by actual Super Compressor dive watches from the 1960s, this does not have the same, Super Compressor sealing technology pioneered by case maker Ervin Piquerez, which relied on a spring-loaded back that press against the case as external water pressure increased. While the twin-crown design remains attractive even today, advancements in the fabrication of cases, crystals and gaskets have made such sealing technology superfluous in a modern watch. The A...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Chopard Alpine Eagle, a super in-depth breakdown of 2019’s most controversial watch
This week, the Chopard Alpine Eagle was released, marking a brand new collection from Chopard, their first in decades. It revives the design of their first ever sports watch, and the brand’s first ever steel watch. Based on the St. Moritz from 1980, the Alpine Eagle features the same stainless steel case and integrated bracelet, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Chopard Alpine Eagle, a super in-depth breakdown of 2019’s most controversial watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The MB&F; HM9 'Flow' Red Gold
Honoring the Golden Age of automotive and aircraft design with a gold case.