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INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Apr 21, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph

Audemars Piguet has modernised its novelties across collections, introducing next generation movements and new technologies into their creations. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Collection is yet another example, with a more ergonomic and refined case as well as an all-new interchangeable strap system. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Collection is comprised … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction Time+Tide
Mido Apr 20, 2021

Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction

When Mido makes headlines for an auction result, you know it must be a special watch, and over the weekend a very special watch was sold. What was the watch? Well, it was a piece produced at the request of Ettore Bugatti, the Italian-born French founder of the eponymous automotive manufacturer. This specific watch, dated … ContinuedThe post Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Apr 18, 2021

Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S

Typically known for making utilitarian, military-inspired watches, Sinn breaks away from its trademark aesthetic with the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, adding a touch of luxe to the smaller sibling of its best-selling U1 dive watch. Initial thoughts Billed as a unisex version of the U1, the U50 has a 41 mm diameter. Though not a small watch in itself, it is substantially smaller than the full-sized, 44 mm U1. With the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, it is clear that Sinn is trying to appeal to female buyers – a segment that the brand, with its usually large “tool” watches must have had difficulty wooing. I find the unusual combination of the blacked-out case and mother-of-pearl dial to work well. The all-black aesthetic is stealthy, the very sort of look right at home on a no-nonsense tool watch. In contrast, the mother-of-pearl dial is striking, with an iridescence is highly attractive and appealing to females looking for sports watch that has a little bit more sparkle. The paradoxical combination gives the new U50 an intriguing look, which I must confess to liking this much more than the regular U50 S. Starting at €2,750 on a rubber strap, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S is just a tad pricier than the regular U50 S. Given that it is also limited to just 500 pieces, it’s good value for those looking for a more stylish Sinn dive watch. Pretty but robust Despite the shimmering mother-of-pearl dial, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S remains robustly built, as most Sinn watches are....

Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Apr 17, 2021

Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Review

Pros: Vintage vibes anyone?8 Day power reserve – In-house Calibre P.5000Beautifully and symmetrically laid out dial Cons: Boutique only PieceFor wrists smaller than 6.5inches, the 45mm case will be too big Would have loved to see more of the P.5000 movement on the case-back Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10  The Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, released in 2019 is a tribute and recognition of their past. It is based on the first Radiomir that was released in 1936. The first Radiomir project was developed in 1936 at the request of the Command of the Submarine Group of the Italian Royal Navy, for the commandoes of the Assualt Vehicle Flotilla. This first edition was one of the first specialised diver’s watches in history.  Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The latest Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992 is not a one-to-one recreation of the original 1930’s Radiomir, but rather a vintage-inspired design from the original model using modern-day movement, materials, and aesthetics.  Design: The Radiomir 8 days is presented in a 45mm case that has quite a unique finish to it. This is the first Panerai watch (along with the Radiomir California PAM 931) to feature what the brand calls Patina steel. The steel case has been given a matte finish, all thanks to a special coating that is applied from a chemical treatment process.  Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The 45mm casing comes with detachable wire lugs...

Why I bought the Kurono Chronograph 2 – an owner’s review Time+Tide
Apr 16, 2021

Why I bought the Kurono Chronograph 2 – an owner’s review

When the first Kurono Chronograph was released, I admired its design but felt the white/black colour scheme was an unnecessary addition to my collection. I won’t pretend any watch is a necessity, but in order to splurge on these items that I love, I have to be able to qualify their purchase – even with … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the Kurono Chronograph 2 – an owner’s review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ready, set, GO! The top 5 sports watches of Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 16, 2021

Ready, set, GO! The top 5 sports watches of Watches & Wonders

This is turning out to be a year of stark contrasts. While some manufacturers insist on microscopic adjustments to tried and trusted case sizes and materials, the flipside of the horological coin is marked by bravado. A bravado in contrasts, from flashing neon sun-yellow ceramic to the demure elegance of brushed silver. Never has our … ContinuedThe post Ready, set, GO! The top 5 sports watches of Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Let’s be transparent: Tinted and clear sapphire dials are a trend in 2021 Time+Tide
Apr 15, 2021

Let’s be transparent: Tinted and clear sapphire dials are a trend in 2021

Sapphire crystal, the once exclusive, high-end material replacing scratch-prone acrylic and normal glass to protect our watch dials, is now widely available,and employed in some of the best dial designs of this year’s Watches and Wonders. But how is pure sapphire crystal actually made? One of the best (succinct) answers to this comes from the … ContinuedThe post Let’s be transparent: Tinted and clear sapphire dials are a trend in 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021 Time+Tide
Apr 15, 2021

The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021

Given the disruptive effects of the pandemic upon watch manufacturers, it’s understandable that some are now cagey about taking too many big risks. At this year’s Watches & Wonders, many brands chose to expand on their design languages without pushing things too far and the results are some truly refined watches. But whether it be … ContinuedThe post The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Introduces the H08 Automatic SJX Watches
Hermes Apr 14, 2021

Hermès Introduces the H08 Automatic

Conceived as an everyday watch with a modern aesthetic, the Hermès H08 is the latest mechanical watch for men from the Parisian leather goods maker. As is now the norm for Hermès, the H08 is a proper mechanical watch that’s powered by an automatic calibre made by respected movement maker Vaucher, while also having its own custom typography created specifically for the H08 (just as it was for the Slim d’Hermès wristwatch). Slightly sporty in design, the H08 has a cushion-shaped case that’s available in titanium or an unusual graphene composite. And the titanium version is also available with a matching bracelet that is notably well executed. Initial thoughts I played with the various versions of the watch, and I like it. They are well designed, well made, and importantly, well priced. The case is smartly finished with a variety of contrasting textures, while also having a screw-down crown and 100 m water resistance. And it contains a Vaucher movement, which is an automatic assurance of quality in terms of construction, and finishing is sufficient at the very least. And it’s worth pointing out that the titanium version is also available on a bracelet that is done surprisingly well for a watch of this price. From left: Graphene composite, titanium, and DLC-coated titanium That said, the fact that it comes from Hermès as opposed to an established watchmaker will no doubt be a major hindrance for a watch enthusiast. But I can say with certainty that the H08 is a we...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 14, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième

Marking its 90th anniversary this year, the Reverso is the only truly successful reversible wristwatch. Jaeger-LeCoultre has long utilised the twin sides of the Reverso case for complications, and now for the first time equips the flip side with a digital hour display. The Reverso Tribute Nonantième – nonantième is French for “ninetieth” – has a conventional front, but an unusual reverse decorated in blue lacquer that features a “semi-jumping hour”, disc minutes, along with a day and night display. Front and back Initial thoughts From the front the Nonantième is hard to distinguish from other Reversos, but from the back it is immediately interesting with its digital hour and disc-type minutes. The reverse face is attractive and certainly unique, but the movement inside is more familiar. Though the cal. 826 is new, it is evidently derived from the cal. 853/854 in the various Reverso Duoface models, being similar in principle but different in indications. It’s mechanically novel, though the fact that the hour display is “semi jumping” rather than actual jumping is regrettable. The reverse display with digital hours Rectangular (or even tonneau) watches usually lose their elegance beyond a certain size, and the Nonantième is close to the limit. At 49.4 mm by 29.9 mm, the Nonantième is a big watch, identical in size to other extra-large models in the Reverso line up, making it suited for larger wrists. At a bit over US$40,000, the Nonantième feels p...

ANALYSIS: How is the $5.2m Audemars Piguet Black Panther different to the $160k version? Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Black Panther different Apr 13, 2021

ANALYSIS: How is the $5.2m Audemars Piguet Black Panther different to the $160k version?

As a community, we watch lovers can forget there is a larger world beyond our obsession, and that the overwhelming majority of watch buyers are not plugged in, in any way, to our commentary. Not every luxury watch buyer, even of popular models we all desire, has dived down the #watchfam rabbit hole. Consequently, they … ContinuedThe post ANALYSIS: How is the $5.2m Audemars Piguet Black Panther different to the $160k version? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches & Wonders 2021 Panels: Client Experience SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Apr 13, 2021

Watches & Wonders 2021 Panels: Client Experience

Aside from the flurry of novelties unveiled during the purely-digital Watches & Wonders 2021 (W&W;), discussion panels took place every day, each conceived to tackle some of the most salient issues facing the luxury-watch industry. We bring you a roundup of the panel that took place on April 10 on a key topic for brands and customers alike: the client experience. Despite the predominantly digital set up, W&W; managed to create a truly interactive debate with a mix of participants on site in Geneva, as well as speakers dialling in remotely, all converging to discuss the same topic. Here are the key findings that emerged. The panel with Beatrice Goasglas of TAG Heuer on site with moderator Mélanie Freymond, and the other panellists on screen Client experience in the digital era The client experience is a central theme for luxury brands, which are all trying to go above and beyond to create an encounter that matches the quality embodies by the products that they make. Watchmakers already started down that path several years ago with increasingly elaborate boutiques, but the development of digital tools and now the pandemic have overturned how brands conceive the whole of the client experience. As Beatrice Goasglas, Vice-President for Digital & Customer Experience at TAG Heuer, noted, “Digitalisation is an opportunity, even a blessing, for brands and maisons to engage even more with their final customers.” Indeed, especially within the context of the pandemic, digital too...

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Apr 13, 2021

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

Having notched up records for the thinnest watch in several categories – including tourbillon, chronograph as well as minute repeater – Bulgari is continuing with the perpetual calendar. The Italian jeweller now claims another record for thinness – its seventh – with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. Taking the mantle from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the new Octo perpetual calendar is just 5.8 mm in its entirety – with a movement only 2.75 mm high. It’ll be offered in the traditional livery of the Octo Finissimo of sandblasted titanium, but unusually also in platinum with an alligator strap. Platinum (left), and titanium Initial thoughts There’s no doubt that Bulgari is perhaps the best at ultra-thin watches – its titles for the thinnest watch in seven categories are testament to that. Yet the brand doesn’t simply rely on its record-setting thinness as a gimmick. Most of its ultra-thin watches are interesting beyond the slimness. The Octo design in its own right is striking. And the perpetual calendar has been executed in a symmetrical, sensible manner. Though the dial is somewhat crowded, it remains legible thanks to the large sub-dials and minimalist aesthetic. It’s a well-designed watch and perhaps the most stylish perpetual calendar on the market. The calendar includes a retrograde date in an arc on the upper half of the dial, with the day and month just below, and the leap year in a tiny display at the base Be...

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 Apr 13, 2021

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it?

Recently I published my thoughts on the new Tudor Black Bay 58 18K in yellow gold. Tudor really surprised us all this year at Watches & Wonders, throwing their hat in the ring for the higher price tier of precious-metal watches. Personally I think the watch is stunning, but nothing is perfect. I would have … ContinuedThe post Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 13, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119

Though now often overlooked in favour of a luxury-sports watch, the Calatrava is perhaps the quintessential Patek Philippe – it was introduced in 1932 and named after the brand’s emblem – possessing a diversity of designs that all share an elegant simplicity. Patek Philippe’s second instalment of new watches at Watches & Wonders 2021 focus on fine, sophisticated wristwatches – it also just announced a striking new perpetual calendar – and naturally encompasses the Calatrava, which sees the addition of the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” ref. 6119. A tribute to well-known Calatrava models such as the ref. 3919 and its successor, the ref. 5119, the ref. 6119 blends several signature elements of past designs in a larger case to create a more contemporary guise that’s available in rose or white gold. Importantly, the ref. 6119 is powered by the newly-developed, hand-wind cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement with twin barrels – and an impressively high moment of inertia for the balance wheel. The cal. 30-255 PS Initial thoughts I’ve always been a fan of the Calatrava, especially variants with a hinged, “hunter” back like the ref. 5227. Best described as fine watches for gentlemen, they typify Patek Philippe’s traditional and refined approach to watchmaking. But the cases of previous generations of the Calatrava were relatively small – the ref. 3919 was 33 mm, while the ref. 5119 had a 36 mm case. And more recent models, like the 40 mm ref. 6007 int...

F.P. Journe Introduces the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Apr 12, 2021

F.P. Journe Introduces the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary

Just as the new Octa Automatique is slated to join the catalogue, F.P. Journe is marking the 20th anniversary of the model with the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary. The 99-piece limited edition harks back to the original Octa Réserve de Marche of 2001, then the brand’s entry-level watch. Like the 2001 original, the 20th anniversary edition has a grained, yellow gold dial with a silver sub-dial. And more notably, it is powered by the cal. 1300.3 – but with the bridges and main plate in rhodium-plated brass, just as it was on the original. One of the original Octa Reserve prototypes The prototype movement Initial thoughts The Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary is modestly novel, but will appeal strongly given how it revokes the first-generation model. Given the current outsized desirability of F.P. Journe’s early watches with brass movements, this will be a hot watch. Nips and tucks Though seemingly identical to the original model, the new Octa Automatique is subtly different in terms of design, and substantially different in movement construction. The displays have been rearranged and enlarged to suit the predominately larger case sizes offered by F.P. Journe today. While the original was 38 mm, the standard sizes are now 40 mm and 42 mm. As a result, the date display is slightly larger than before, while the hour numerals are also bigger. Because the date has grown in size, the power reserve display now sits marginally lower than where it used to be. A subtle detai...

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Apr 12, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire

Hublot truly is a pioneer in watch materials. Their motto “The Art of Fusion” is not just a tagline, it is a prime directive that drives all of their manufacturing. By thinking ahead, and pushing the boundaries of what a manufacturer can do, they are able to execute things many (if not all) brands are … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage Time+Tide
Sinn Apr 11, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage

Cool, icy cool. That’s what we have here, in a watch that brings to mind the German form over function we know from Sinn. With an air of indestructability, the Vero Open Water is a watch in which I can see no trace of vintage, or even the slightest trace of retro homage. And this … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in White Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Apr 11, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in White Gold

The style du jour in luxury watches today, the integrated-bracelet sports watch – exemplified by the Nautilus and Royal Oak – describes many of the most desirable watches today. Though a newcomer relative to its peers, it would be remiss to look past the Overseas, which is as thin, distinctive, and finely finished. Now Vacheron Constantin has unveiled perhaps the best versions of the model yet – the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton – both in white gold with dials in blue. Initial thoughts Both watches aren’t new – the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin was first introduced in 2016, while the skeleton variant was launched last year. The novelty is merely the new colour, as well as the white gold case for the skeleton model (which was previously only available in pink gold). Compared to the previous iterations, the new blue-and-white-gold combinations give the two watches a modern, understated aesthetic that makes them perhaps the most attractive models in the entire Overseas line. My pick of the pair is the skeleton model, which eminently striking, with its open-worked aesthetic – with all the intricate mechanics on display – elevating the look to another level. My pick would be the skeleton model Both new models are priced about 10% more than their predecessors in pink gold, which is more or less in keeping with the industry norm of pricing white gold slightly high (due to ostensibly hi...

Cartier Introduces Slightly Ironic Cartier Libre Jewelled Watches SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Slightly Ironic Cartier Apr 11, 2021

Cartier Introduces Slightly Ironic Cartier Libre Jewelled Watches

Cartier Libre reimagines signature Cartier case shapes as high jewellery timepieces. Iconic designs like the Crash, Baignoire, Tank Chinoise, and Diagonale have all been given the Libre treatment since the line’s launch in 2017. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Cartier debuts the latest Cartier Libre duo – the Baignoire Turtle and Tortue Snake – both jewelled, enamelled, and slightly ironic: a turtle dressed like a snake, and a turtle named after a bathtub. Initial Thoughts Extravagantly styled and impeccably decorated, the new pair of watches are whimsical, as the Libre line has always been, but for the first time draw on the natural world for inspiration. Despite being seriously lavish jewellery watches, the two have a sense of humour. Each case shape is inspired by an object – tortue translates as turtle, and bagnoire, bathtub – but each watch is decorated with a motif from something else entirely, bringing to mind surrealist art. The turtle Definitely the more glamorous of the two watches, the Bagnoire Turtle is also the more legible of the two, thanks to the use of blued-steel hands that contrast against the diamond-set dial. And it is more convenient, being powered by a quartz movement, though that makes it less appealing to a watch enthusiast. The Baignoire Turtle is decorated like, well, a turtle. Both the bezel and dial have been divided into pentagonal and hexagonal panels, outlined in blue enamel. The panels themselves are decorated with brilliant-cut di...