Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
Vacheron gives us a look at what it takes to stand out amongst open-dialed watches
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Hodinkee
Vacheron gives us a look at what it takes to stand out amongst open-dialed watches
Worn & Wound
Brew’s Metric chronograph has become one of the biggest watch hits in the microbrand space since its introduction just a few years ago. The cycle of restock to sellout has been basically uninterrupted since the Metric made its debut in the summer of 2021, and the line recently saw an expansion with a gold plated version that rewired our expectations of what this watch can be. Now, just a few months out from that gold Metric, Brew has dropped a version in black PVD directly inspired by brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s love of car culture. All of the Metrics have a solidly vintage infused vibe, but this one is squarely placed in the 80s, and anyone who has spent any amount of time thinking about cars from that decade will immediately understand the connections Brew is making in the design of this watch. The design is overtly sporty, with bright red accents inspired by instrument clusters on 1980s 911s contrasting sharply with the matte black dial and case. The blasted steel pushers and crown dramatically set off the case, and give the watch a tool-like sensibility. But it’s the sleekness of the black coating on the case and bracelet that does the heavy lifting in connecting this watch to 80s sports cars. Something that we’ve always appreciated about the Metric is its fidelity to a style of sports watch that became popular in the 1970s, watches with shaped cases in sizes that by today’s standards would be considered a bit undersized, but in their day would have j...
Worn & Wound
That’s a wrap. Watches and wonders is now behind us and one of the biggest takeaways from the fair was a continued emphasis on titanium. From IWC’s premium Ingenieur to Rolex and their new Yacht-Master. Even Zenith joined in with their new Defy Revival Shadow. Clearly, the larger brands are going to continue exploring their use of this light and strong material. That’s a wrap. Watches and wonders is now behind us and one of the biggest takeaways from the fair was a continued emphasis on titanium. From IWC’s premium Ingenieur to Rolex and their new Yacht-Master. Even Zenith joined in with their new Defy Revival Shadow. Clearly, the larger brands are going to continue exploring their use of this light and strong material. The post Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Roger Dubuis pushes the envelope of haute horology for Watches & Wonders, with the introduction of the Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph It features a 360 degree tourbillon designed to eliminate the effects of gravity, and sports a rattrapante chronograph The case material is 60% lighter than ceramic, and 13% lighter than carbon When supercars weren’t enough, … ContinuedThe post Look into the future of Hyper Horology with the Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Boxer Amir Khan lost his bejewelled Franck Mueller. Formula One driver Lando Norris was forcibly relieved of his £400,000 Richard Mille. They were just two of the unfortunate victims of watch theft, the crime trend that has spiralled into an international epidemic. As crooks have become increasingly knowledgeable about the value of luxury watches, a … ContinuedThe post The fight against crime: Audemars Piguet offers new guarantee for stolen watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is Hublot’s latest addition to the Masterpiece collection. It features a bi-retrograde dial, as well as a bi-axis tourbillon for ultimate complexity. Despite many power-draining complications, the HUB6200 offers a 4-day power reserve. There will always be people seeking to discredit Hublot as serious watchmakers, however projects such as … ContinuedThe post The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is a bi-retrograde, bi-axis tourbillon spec monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Zenith relaunched their Pilot this year, in one of the most closely watched releases of Watches & Wonders. It’s one of those watches that was just hard to know what to make of it until seeing it in the metal (or ceramic), but both Zach Kazan and Blake Buettner were surprised by it in different ways. Here are their thoughts on the new Pilot watches, as well as a pair of genuine sleepers: a Defy Revival Shadow in bead blasted titanium, and an all new Defy Skyline in full ceramic (including the bracelet). Pilot Zach: What I found when I finally went hands-on with the Pilot watches at Watches & Wonders last week was a collection of aviation inspired watches that didn’t feel the need to hew too close to tradition, either Zenith’s or the genre of pilot watches more generally. These watches, actually, reminded me of my favorite vintage Defy references in a surprising way, in that they were weird and unexpected, but still worked and were fun to wear. This isn’t a typical pilot watch in the same way a Defy from the mid-70s isn’t a typical sports watch. Their sensibility is tweaked just a little, to the point where there are few direct comparisons you can make to other watches. I guess what I’m trying to say is that they’re original in a way that few watches in this category are anymore. The chronograph is the standout, in my opinion, and if I had to choose, I’d take the one in steel. There are two things about this watch that I really love. First, the way the ac...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko makes the most of their gorgeous cherry blossom-inspired dial, this time in a rose-gold case The SBGY026 will appeal to the smaller-wristed, measuring in at 38.5mm in diameter and just 43.7mm lug-to-lug A manually wound Spring Drive 9R31 movement keeps the watch slim at just a smidge over 10mm It’s safe to say … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last weekend, the Australian Grand Prix took place in Melbourne’s picturesque surroundings of Albert Park. We got an incredible spectacle, too, with plenty of drama and one of the most confusing endings in recent times – reminiscent of that controversial night in Abu Dhabi. Despite the action-packed race, most people’s predictions of a Red Bull … ContinuedThe post Australian Grand Prix – TAG Heuer affirms top watch sponsor spot with more Red Bull dominance, and I live out a childhood dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe embarks on a new route for Watches & Wonders 2023 with two new versions of its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. In addition to the second time zone, there’s the added complication of a flyback chronograph. Two dial colours are offered, both cased in polished white gold. The new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is once again focusing on the Reverso, launching several new models along with new dial for existing references. The most notable debut is certainly the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which offers a minimalist primary time display on one side and a partially open-worked chronograph on the other. This new model pays tribute to the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde of 1996, perhaps one of the best watches of that decade and one that helped solidify JLC’s status as a master of complications. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph reimagines the original for a new generation of collectors while being different enough to be its own watch. The reverse face with the chronograph as well as additional time display Initial thoughts On its face (no pun intended), the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is good value, offering a novel and compact chronograph movement with classic but unusual aesthetics thanks to its two faces. A key different between this and the original is the double-sided time display (that shows the same time on both faces). Initially, I was disappointed by the addition of a time display on the chronograph side of the watch. In my view, part of the charm of the original was the single-minded focus of each side. But upon reflection I’ve come to view this change as an upgrade, since it now enables the user to wear the chronograph side up as a primary time display when desired. This practicality differentiates the Tribute from the o...
Worn & Wound
One of our favorite releases from Watches & Wonders 2022 last year was the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, a watch that presented a unique hidden 2nd hour hand that could be adjusted to a different time zone with a press of a button in the lug. For 2023, Parmigiani returns to this concept in a slightly different manner, with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante. Instead of offering a second 12 hour hand, this latest Tonda brings us a second, independently adjustable minute hand, offering the functionality we’d typically see in a rotating bezel, only, you know, without the bezel. As fun as bezels are to turn, pressing buttons might even be more fun, and this Parmigiani is about as entertaining as they come from a functional point of view. A bit less so in the visual department, but this is still a Tonda through and through. The Minute Rattrapante presents not one, but two buttons in both lugs along the 9 o’clock side of the case. These are used to adjust the second minute hand in 5 minute, and 1 minute increments. If you’ve just plugged your parking meter for 24 minutes, and you need to keep tabs on it, you’d press the button on the bottom four times to place the hand 20 minutes out, and the button at the top 4 times to bring it the full 24 minutes out. That will remain parked at that spot, while the regular minute hand catches up to it, eventually surpassing it to let you know how far you’ve gone over. Exactly the same as rotating the triangle of your ...
Deployant
Our writer, Frank, picks his three favourite watches from Watches & Wonders 2023 (that happen to be from three different countries).
Time+Tide
Dive watches are more popular than ever, especially compressor divers. These ubiquitous watches herald from a time when horological engineering was at its peak, and when man’s explorative mind had no limits. Compressor divers were built to withstand submersion whilst remaining relatively thin and were therefore comfortable to wear. This was made possible by the … ContinuedThe post Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
It’s time. That’s right, it’s episode 43. The most special number. Why? Well, this A Week in Watches is coming to you from the halls of Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. Since it’s a different venue, and there were a lot of launches, we took a slightly different approach. More, shorter stories, and more hosts! Yep, this episode has Blake Buettner, Zach Kazan, and Zach Weiss. What do we cover? Lots of stuff. Rolex, Tudor, Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, Lange, and Oris, so buckle up. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week in Watches Ep.43: Rolex, Tudor, Oris, and More From Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
A week has nearly come and gone at Watches and Wonders. In the span of a few days, dozens of brands have released hundreds of new watches. So much has come out that at times it can feel overwhelming (unless you’re following the Worn and Wound team, where they’ve been on top of all the latest news and releases). A week has nearly come and gone at Watches and Wonders. In the span of a few days, dozens of brands have released hundreds of new watches. So much has come out that at times it can feel overwhelming (unless you’re following the Worn and Wound team, where they’ve been on top of all the latest news and releases). The post Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The teasers pretty much confirmed it – Rolex is finally paying attention to the Cellini! Well, as it proves year in, year out, the rumours are only sort of true. Rather than a revised Cellini, Rolex is presenting an entirely new model – the Perpetual 1908, marking the beginnings of a new collection. If you … ContinuedThe post The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having covered the notable from independent watchmaking and complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction on April 5, we turn to timepieces that are all about artisanal crafts, ranging from cloisonné and marquetry. Amongst the highlight is a Patek Philippe Dome Clock depicting the African savannah in cloisonné and another is the Cartier Tortue ref. 2496 with the jeweller’s signature panther motif. Important Watches I takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2101: Cartier Tortue LM Panthere This wristwatch two enduring elements of Cartier design, a form case and the panther motif. It’s a large-size Tortue – French for “turtle” – with a panther on the dial in champleve enamel. The large variant of the Tortue (instead of the oversized “XL”), this measures 34 mm in diameter, giving the dial ample real estate for the panther. The panther’s visage is executed in champlevé, where the dial base is first engraved with the motif before being painted and fired. This is powered by the cal. 430 MC, an ultra-thin manual mechanical movement that is actually the Piaget cal. 430P. Accompanied by its box and papers, this has an estimate of HK$200,000-300,000, or about US$25,000-38,200. You can find out more in the catalogue. Lot 2131: Audemars Piguet “Rolls Royce Phantom II” Before becoming synonyms with the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet (AP) produced a diversity of elaborately decorated wrist- and pocket watc...
SJX Watches
Ever since Rolex discreetly revealed the one-off Yacht-Master in titanium made for Olympic sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, enthusiasts have been waiting for the commercially-available equivalent (which got all the more likely after the release of the Rolex Deepsea Challenge last year). And now Rolex has finally done it with the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Similar to Sir Ben’s watch but with the addition of a date and matching titanium bracelet, the Yacht-Master 42 is perhaps the most restrained sports watch in the current Rolex catalogue. Initial thoughts Being a long-time fan of the Yacht-Master line, I’m glad to see this has finally arrived. Though large in size, it’s lighter and consequently more wearable. The muted colours and finish give it a no-fuss, contemporary look that sets it apart from the usual sports Rolex, but it retains the recognisable Yacht-Master style with its relief bezel. Perhaps the recognisable look is the only aspect to critique: the watch is little changed in terms of design from past Yacht-Master models (which were mostly in precious metals). The option of a rubber strap as seen on Sir Ben’s watch, for instance, would have given the Yacht-Master collection some variety. At CHF13,400, the Yacht-Master 42 is priced reasonably relative to other Rolex sports models. However, compared to the all-titanium offerings from Tudor – the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very, very similar – this is less of a value proposition, but it is still a Rolex. A mo...
Time+Tide
The new Oyster Perpetual Celebration is proof that the crown knows how to party Bubbly dials take on the colours of Stella-inspired OPs that sky-rocketed in popularity over the last few years Available in 31, 36 and 41 millimetre case sizes Rolex clearly tried to do their best to please as many of their fans … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Join the CEO of Ulysse Nardin, Patrick Pruniaux, and the Founder of Revolution, Wei Koh, as they discuss how the Freak changed watchmaking history and how its latest iteration, the Freak ONE, continues to champion irreverent horology. The Freak by Ulysse Nardin was originally invented by Ludwig Oechslin in 2001. It was truly a freak […]
Worn & Wound
Well folks, it’s been a hectic Watches & Wonders. So hectic, in fact, that we missed the last few days of recaps. But the show has ended (public days start tomorrow, but we head back to the States early in the AM) and we’ve all taken a deep breath and thought about this back half of the week. This isn’t a final summation of our thoughts on the show, but our immediate reactions as it winds down in real time. Thanks for following along with us as we’ve reported from Geneva – we can’t wait to tell you more about what we saw. Zach Kazan The back half of Watches & Wonders has been essentially nonstop for all of us. We took a divide and conquer approach, splitting up to cover the most ground, and as a result will have tons of great watches to tell you about over the coming weeks. For me, the final day of Watches & Wonders was possibly the best single day of the show. Highlight number one: Hublot. This was perhaps my most anticipated meeting, because it unexpectedly turned out to be my favorite meeting of last year. The vibe when the Hublot novelties is presented is so markedly different from every other presentation, it’s hard not to notice. It’s lowkey and genuinely a lot of fun, and the watches, for me, have a Wow Factor that few brands can match. The most noteworthy piece is one I’ll be writing more about soon, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in blue sapphire, with a sapphire bracelet. It’s a technical marvel on a number of levels, and is one of those ...
Revolution
Niels Eggerding. Managing Director at Frederique Constant, shares with Revolution Founder Wei Koh the novelties that his brand presented at Watches and Wonders 2023. These include the 41mm Highlife Worldtimer in 18k rose gold or steel, powered by the automatic FC-718 Manufacture with 38-hour power reserve and limited to 35 pieces for the gold model; […]
Episode 4 was delayed due to an evening event that Hodinkee hosted with Lucid Automotive in Geneva but I got Nora, Danny, and Tony on a mic before we parted ways after the show. We get into the recent goodies from Cartier, new Alpine Eagle and LUC models from Chopard, and a whole lot more.
Worn & Wound
The lineup from Jaeger-LeCoultre at this year’s Watches & Wonders is remarkably focused. When I received the embargoed press releases a few weeks ago, I’ll admit to a slight twinge of disappointment at the apparent lack of variety. It would be a Reverso year for the watchmaker’s watchmaker, and vague hopes that I always have for a recommitment to high spec but elegant sports watches were once again dashed. My disappointment (it’s an overstatement to even call it that) was short lived, as I began to dig into those very same press releases and began to realize that we were likely to see some beautiful stuff from JLC. The Reverso is such a great watch, it’s tough to be anything but charmed by them at the end of the day. The most interesting of the new Reversos that I saw is also the most clever, and is a fun, practical, and beautiful use of the iconic hinged case and the capacity for the watch to feature two dial displays. The new Tribute Chronograph is part of a large package of new references in the “Tribute” category, all paying tribute to the original Reverso in their perfect proportions. For the chrono, we get two references, one in gold and the other in steel, each with a dial that tells the current time and a secondary dial that displays elapsed time via a rather ingenious chronograph display. Think about almost every chronograph you’ve ever seen, and you begin to realize that a circular case and dial are practically core to the complication itsel...
Hodinkee
The standouts are the platinum with a display caseback and the new stainless steel, but Rolex now has more than 30 models in the Daytona line. Here's what you need to know.
Revolution
Revolution Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto and Revolution Founder Wei Koh met up with Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe to get a closer look at Hublot’s diverse array of novelties that the brand presented at Watches and Wonders 2023. They got their hands on eye-catching new Hublot timepieces like the Big Bang Integrated Blue Sapphire, Big Bang Integrated […]
Deployant
In this year’s Watches and Wonders 2023, Rolex has introduced its new line-up – with highlights from the all-new Perpetual 1908 collection, as well as interesting updates and variants to the Daytona, Yacht-Master, Oyster Perpetual, and Day-Date series. Mark our words, you are looking at the beginning of a new era for Rolex. Press ReleaseRead More
Revolution
Bart and Tim Grönefeld grew up in a watchmaking family, and together they have propelled their eponymous brand to enormous success in independent watchmaking and haute horlogerie. Here’s a closer look at the 1941 Grönograaf launched last year, which is the brand’s first chronograph. The 40mm 1941 Grönograaf in steel (188-piece limited edition) or tantalum […]
Revolution
Jean-Marie Schaller strove for years to find out more about the legendary watchmaker Louis Moinet, who had very little surviving documentation about him. He acquired the Louis Moinet brand with its trademarks in 2000, and eventually discovered that Louis Moinet was the inventor of the chronograph and of high frequency watches. At Watches and Wonders […]
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