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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Business News: Longines CEO Walter von Känel Retires After 51 Years SJX Watches
Longines CEO Walter von Känel Jun 18, 2020

Business News: Longines CEO Walter von Känel Retires After 51 Years

After an epic career, industry legend Walter von Känel has just retired as chief executive of Longines, a post he held since 1988. Now 79 years old, Mr von Känel joined Longines in 1969, just as the watch industry was on the cusp of the Quartz Crisis, and stayed for 51 years. Under his leadership Longines has become the world’s fourth largest watchmaker by revenue, with 2019 sales of about 1.65 billion Swiss francs – from an output of about 2.1 million watches – according to Morgan Stanley estimates. Despite Longines’ vast size, Mr von Känel retained an almost unbelievable grasp of the brand’s history and products, something he demonstrated during a 2016 interview where he could describe the calibre inside the Lindbergh remake of 1987. For all his success, Mr von Känel remained steadfastly dedicated to the brand, keeping a relatively low profile despite being in a business filled with large personalities. When I asked in the 2016 interview if Longines would be doing anything to mark his 50 years at the company, he response was simple: “I am against the cult of personality. We sell Longines watches, we don’t sell von Kanel watches.” On his retirement, Mr von Känel was named Honorary Chairman of Longines, while keeping his appointment as Chairman of the Longines Foundation. The new chief executive of Longines is Matthias Breschan, who was most recently chief executive of Rado. Mr Breschan, in turn, will be succeeded at Rado by Adrian Bosshard, who wa...

Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Review WatchAdvice
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Jun 18, 2020

Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Review

The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 is simply a watch that explains Oris’s true personality. The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 goes back to the roots of what mechanical watches are all about. In today’s world, so many of us know what the things around us can do, but rarely actually know how they work.  The same logic applies to mechanical watches too. We see brilliant timepieces made and know what they can do, yet rarely see or understand the inner workings behind them. This is the idea behind the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115, to show as much as possible how the true inner workings of a mechanical watch operate.  Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 There is almost a natural connection between a mechanical watch and its owner. If we don’t wind it, or even yet move, we won’t drive enough power to turn the mainspring which ultimately powers the movement. This is what Oris is trying to show with the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115.   Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Oris’s Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 was inspired by nature, in particular, a Valley named Waldenburg, which surrounds the village of Hölstein. This particular village is significant to Oris, as it is there where the brand originally began. Oris was founded in 1904, and since then the brand has been based in Hölstein. It’s no wonder then that they would go back there to find sources of inspiration for arguably the “most Oris watch” they have ever made.  Oris Big Crown ProPi...

7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials Time+Tide
Seiko mods Jun 17, 2020

7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials

Watch modification, or “modding”, is a remarkably popular subset of the watch collecting community, where enthusiasts will tinker with their watches to build totally customised pieces to wear. Without a doubt the most popular brand in the modding space is Seiko, where the combination of affordability and relatively widespread access to quality parts makes for … ContinuedThe post 7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Top 10 watches of Virtual Baselworld 2020, inc. Hublot, Longines, Seiko, Casio and Hamilton Time+Tide
Longines Seiko Casio Jun 16, 2020

VIDEO: The Top 10 watches of Virtual Baselworld 2020, inc. Hublot, Longines, Seiko, Casio and Hamilton

Any Seinfeld fans will know what I’m talking about when I say that the Home Delivery Watch Fair, where we re-created both SIHH (or Watches & Wonders, as it’s known now) and Baselworld, was more akin to Kramer’s version of the Merv Griffin show than it was a real watch fair. As in, it was … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Top 10 watches of Virtual Baselworld 2020, inc. Hublot, Longines, Seiko, Casio and Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Octo that (really) started it all, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Editor’s Jun 15, 2020

The Octo that (really) started it all, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

Editor’s note: Every great product has a genesis, and for this Italian-founded watch and jewellery firm it is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic. It was the one that started it all back in 2017, leaving eyes wide open with its sharply faceted design and ultra-thin construction. In the years following, we have seen the same … ContinuedThe post The Octo that (really) started it all, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Oris has an answer to the horrors of 2020, and it’s an all-bronze Hölstein Edition 2020 with a bear on the back Time+Tide
Oris has Jun 15, 2020

Oris has an answer to the horrors of 2020, and it’s an all-bronze Hölstein Edition 2020 with a bear on the back

The ‘My Plans’ memes are right. 2020 has been annus horribilis. It’s ruined just about every party on the planet. Oris knows this, and they’ve got a plan. It involves what is claimed to be Switzerland’s first all bronze watch. Yes, including the bracelet. And, oh, to turn up the smiles, there’s a bear on … ContinuedThe post Oris has an answer to the horrors of 2020, and it’s an all-bronze Hölstein Edition 2020 with a bear on the back appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: It’s part 3/3 of (pretend) Baselworld 2020, buckle up for 40 minutes of Seiko, Grand Seiko and Chris Hemsworth from his home in Byron Bay Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Jun 12, 2020

VIDEO: It’s part 3/3 of (pretend) Baselworld 2020, buckle up for 40 minutes of Seiko, Grand Seiko and Chris Hemsworth from his home in Byron Bay

Well, it’s been almost better than the real thing, and certainly as epic in terms of the length of the videos, but it’s over – it’s part 3 of 3 of our Home Delivery Watch Fair Basel Edition! And to finish, we’re doing what we do at the end of all watch fairs. A list. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: It’s part 3/3 of (pretend) Baselworld 2020, buckle up for 40 minutes of Seiko, Grand Seiko and Chris Hemsworth from his home in Byron Bay appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Silicium Marquetry SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Silicium Marquetry Jun 10, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Silicium Marquetry

Revolutionary for its construction and use of silicon, the Ulysse Nardin Freak is still a unique watch almost two decades after its introduction. And the full-featured Freak is still a relatively costly watch, until the Freak X came along last year. The most affordable version of a watch that helped kickstart the age of high-tech mechanical watchmaking, the Freak X retains the essence of its bigger brother while simplifying the rest of the movement. Several iterations of the Freak X have been rolled out since then, including one that ironically takes silicon out of the movement – the Freak X Silicium Marquetry. The watch has a dial decorated with inlaid tiles of iridescent silicon, using the material for its aesthetic potential, rather than the usual functional purposes in the escapement. The Freak X Silicium Marquetry Initial thoughts The Freak X Silicium Marquetry is an aesthetic variant of the standard model, so it’s identical in all respects except the dial finish. A combination of metallic and glassy, the silicon dial is different from any other dial material and suits the look of the watch well. That means the case is compact, so it wears quite well. And more importantly, the watch has a cutting-edge balance wheel amounted on the minute hand, making one revolution an hour. It’s a surprisingly advanced regulator in a watch at this price point, and probably the most advanced of all watches in the price segment. But the Freak X Silicium Marquetry is substantiall...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition, pre-loaded with 40,000 golf courses Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition pre-loaded Jun 10, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition, pre-loaded with 40,000 golf courses

It was only three months ago that the latest TAG Heuer Connected watch was launched, the third generation of the luxury Swiss smartwatch that first hit the market in 2015, the same year as the first generation of the Apple Watch. One (eventful) quarter later and we see the launch of the brand new TAG … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition, pre-loaded with 40,000 golf courses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: The Definitive Guide to the A. Lange & Söhne Handwerkskunst SJX Watches
Casio n Jun 7, 2020

In-Depth: The Definitive Guide to the A. Lange & Söhne Handwerkskunst

When Walter Lange celebrated his 90th birthday in 2014, A. Lange & Söhne marked the occasion with a short interview. Asked how he would define the brand, the great-grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange quoted the late Günter Blümlein: “A Lange watch is a fusion of the arts… [and] the unique technology and artisanship to which we are committed.” Lange has created many special watches since it was re-established in 1994, but one family of timepieces embodies Blümlein’s description – Handwerkskunst. A line of limited-edition watches, Handwerkskunst – which translates as “craftsmanship” – is defined by traditional artistic techniques of decoration and exemplary hand-finish, a combination that is truly a “fusion of the arts”. The goal of this article is to provide the context behind the creation of the Handwerkskunst series, and to detail the individual models. The focus will be on the details of each model, how they differ from their standard counterparts, and the realised prices at auction – livened up by my personal experience and opinion. Five of the eight Handwerkskunst models launched to date, without the Richard Lange Pour le Merite, Cabaret Tourbillon, and Datograph Why handwerkskunst? I am often asked why I love Lange watches. It’s a long answer, but one reason goes beyond the watch themselves – it is the brand’s determination to preserve and develop the artisanal crafts in Saxony. In fact, Lange is something of a hub for artisans in the ...

IN-DEPTH: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm Jun 7, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm

Just a few short weeks ago, Time+Tide had the distinct pleasure of globally unveiling the last of the 50th anniversary special edition Zenith El Primeros. Called the Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, this gorgeous watch was the result of a surprise discovery that the team at Zenith had found in a dusty old cupboard in their … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bohematic Graphic Sutnar: Czech Watchmaking By Design Quill & Pad
Jun 5, 2020

Bohematic Graphic Sutnar: Czech Watchmaking By Design

The Bohematic Graphic Sutnar is an homage to Ladislav Sutnar, the most significant artistic figure in Czechoslovakia's interwar period of modernism. Sutnar was chosen as the historical figure to launch this brand-new micro brand and its first line. However, the Graphic Sutnar watch bears not only the name of the world-renowned artist, but also his unique font for the numerals. Find out what all that means right here!

VIDEO: Virtual Baselworld 2020 Part 2 is live, and we have Rolex predictions, a live schnitzel and lots and lots of watches! Time+Tide
Blancpain Hublot Jun 5, 2020

VIDEO: Virtual Baselworld 2020 Part 2 is live, and we have Rolex predictions, a live schnitzel and lots and lots of watches!

The Home Delivery Watch Fair is back, with Part 2 of (pretend) Baselworld! In this episode we have Rolex predictions with Frank from Monochrome, a live schnitzel dinner with beers, and watches from a slew of brands including Rado, Blancpain, Hublot and H. Moser & Cie. Video Giveaways In each of these Home Delivery Watch … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Virtual Baselworld 2020 Part 2 is live, and we have Rolex predictions, a live schnitzel and lots and lots of watches! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; Introduces the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser SJX Watches
H. Moser Partners Jun 5, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser

Partners for more than a decade in the supply of hairsprings, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F; have recently announced their first watch collaboration. Both mark their 15th anniversaries with a pair of watches that each brand designed for the other, blending the defining traits of both. MB&F; helped styled the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F;, while Moser added its signature aesthetic to the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser. A refreshing take on MB&F;’s simplest Legacy Machine, the new LM101 has a steel case and the option of four dial colours in Moser’s signature smoked finish – Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, red fumé, and Aqua Blue fumé – each limited to 15 pieces. The watch incorporates the aesthetic sensibilities of H. Moser & Cie on the front, along with a slight redesign of the movement. Initial thoughts Based on the photos, the new LM101 is one of the most appealing recent watches from MB&F;, though that isn’t really a surprise since it synthesises the elements that have made both brands successful – and the elements remain successful when combine together. The most apparent is the sunray-brushed, fumé dial that is very much Moser. Although the brand did not invent the look, the smoked finish has become synonymous with the brand – and the fumé effect also translates very well on the LM101. While the Moser fumé finish has been added, the traditional sub-dials (for the time and power reserve) of the LM101 have been removed. This streamlinin...

Business News: Frédéric Arnault Appointed Chief Executive of TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Having joined TAG Heuer Jun 4, 2020

Business News: Frédéric Arnault Appointed Chief Executive of TAG Heuer

Having joined TAG Heuer in 2017, Frédéric Arnault has just been named the watchmaker’s boss, effective July 1. He succeeds Stephane Bianchi, who will then be elevated to head the newly-formed LVMH Watch and Jewellery division – a job that Mr Arnault is perhaps being groomed for – which encompasses the group’s three watch brands, which include Hublot and Zenith, as well as its smaller jewellery brands, Chaumet and Fred. The biggest LVMH jewellery brand, Bulgari, retains its standalone status. Bulgari chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin, who industry sources say enjoys a competitive rivalry with Mr Bianchi, will report only to the number two man in LVMH, Group Managing Director Antonio Belloni. Presumably Tiffany & Co., the American jeweller that LVMH is in the process of acquiring, will enjoy similar independence. A digital leader While Mr Arnault is the fourth son of Bernard Arnault, the founder and controlling shareholder of LVMH, the younger Arnault arrived in the watch business with an impressive résumé. The 25-year old graduated from France’s prestigious Ecole Polytechnique with a degree in Computational and Applied Mathematics, notching up internships at McKinsey and Facebook along the way. He started at TAG Heuer as head of connected watches, just as the brand was ramping up its push into smartwatches, before being promoted to Strategy and Digital Director in 2018, where he led the design of the latest-generation Connected watch. The recently launch...

In-Depth: Konstantin Chaykin and Telling the Time on Mars SJX Watches
TAG Heuer was appointed Jun 4, 2020

In-Depth: Konstantin Chaykin and Telling the Time on Mars

When Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin announced the Mars Conqueror last year, it was not the first Martian-time wristwatch, but it was by far the most advanced and comprehensive watch to indicate Martian time – and even the Martian calendar. TAG Heuer was appointed the official timekeeper for China’s Mars exploration mission in 2016, with its chief executive Jean-Claude Biver declaring that exploring the Red Planet is “the next giant leap for humanity”. With its launch planned for July 2020, the Chinese journey to Mars is just one of several missions to the planet – Russian space agency Roscosmos and NASA are working on similar projects. Despite the steady progress in reaching Mars, no big watch brand has debuted a watch that tells Martian time. Konstantin Chaykin’s experimental Mars Conqueror of 2019 But such watches have been built, as a matter of necessity for the scientists involved in past Mars missions. NASA’s Mars Exploration Rover (MER) of 2004, for instance, commissioned several watchmakers to construct simple but effective Martian-time watches. Since the Martian day, known as a sol, is 24 hours, 39 minutes and 35 seconds, the solution was to slow a conventional watch to match Martian time. Steve Maddox of North Little Rock converted a second world war, military-issue Hamilton 4992B pocket watch for MER team member Jeff Moersch, reducing its frequency from the standard 18,000 beats per hour (bph) to about 17,525 bph. And Los Ang...