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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut adds some delectable new chocolates and blue-greys to the line-up Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Aquanaut adds some delectable Mar 28, 2023

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut adds some delectable new chocolates and blue-greys to the line-up

Patek Philippe adds three tasty new rose gold models to their Aquanaut sporting line for Watches & Wonders 2023 A flyback chronograph and diamond-bezelled time/date model both get warm dial colours In a first for the Aquanaut, the Luce presents an annual calendar paired with a blue-grey dial With no new Nautilus models for Watches … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe Aquanaut adds some delectable new chocolates and blue-greys to the line-up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Speake-Marin’s Ripples Blue Jeans, Speake-Marin Ripples Date and Speake-Marin Academic Revolution
Speake-Marin Mar 27, 2023

VIDEO: Speake-Marin’s Ripples Blue Jeans, Speake-Marin Ripples Date and Speake-Marin Academic

Discover the new novelties of Speake-Marin together with Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution. Jeremiah describes the trademark design codes of this cult brand, and how the various features of the Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans, Speake-Marin Ripples Date and Speake-Marin Academic are achieved through different intricate processes.

The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection Mar 27, 2023

The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold

Four new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier models The two mosaic models utilise tri-gold (white, rose and yellow) finished dials Two models bring the green and burgundy lacquer dials from the 2021 Must collection into the manually wound Tank LC format The Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and … ContinuedThe post The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Depancel Legend 60s is a twin-register throwback with bags of style Time+Tide
Mar 15, 2023

The Depancel Legend 60s is a twin-register throwback with bags of style

The Depancel Legend 60s is their first hand-wound mechanical chronograph. It follows a more competitive and serious design language than the Meca-Quartz Serie-A Stradale. The Seagull ST1901 movement is based on a vintage Swiss movement - the Venus 175. If you’ve somehow missed some of our previous articles about Depancel, then the first thing you’ll … ContinuedThe post The Depancel Legend 60s is a twin-register throwback with bags of style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Garrick Introduces the S6, an Evolution of their Entry Level Watch Worn & Wound
Garrick Mar 3, 2023

Garrick Introduces the S6, an Evolution of their Entry Level Watch

When we last checked in on Garrick, the small British indie had just unveiled the S5 series of watches, their most high-end and luxurious creations to date. Coming in at nearly $20,000, many longtime admirers of the brand might have felt some sticker shock (although not too many – the initial run was pre-sold to existing clients before the embargo lifted). It will be a relief, then, to note that Garrick’s latest watch, the S6, is back to four digit territory, and a deliberate evolution of the S4, the brand’s entry-level line. There are some minor aesthetic tweaks to the S6 that give it a noticeably different character than other Garrick creations, but they allow the artisans who work on these watches to really flex their muscles when it comes to dial work. And of course they are still completely customizable, so the end result, almost by definition, is precisely what you were looking for.  The key differentiating factor between the S4 and S6 is the dial layout, specifically the lack of large numerals at the perimeter that remain a defining feature of the S4. Garrick’s goal with the S6 was to achieve an aesthetic that’s more contemporary (the S4’s design language, like all of Garrick’s creations to a certain degree, is rooted in classic English pocket watch design). On the S6, time is read via a thin chapter ring at the outer edge of the dial, with small markers for the minutes and hours that have been hand filled with ink. Removing the numerals gives the dia...

The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features Feb 20, 2023

The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first

New calendar module debuts in the IWC Portofino Complete Calendar Available in stainless steel or 18k 5N gold IWC also introduces a new Portofino Pointer Date in 39mm If I asked what the first watch you think of is when I say IWC, I wonder how many would name the Portofino. I certainly wouldn’t, but … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Lunar Pilot and Accutron Astronaut prepare for lift off once again Time+Tide
Accutron Astronaut prepare Feb 7, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Lunar Pilot and Accutron Astronaut prepare for lift off once again

The Accutron Astronaut is being reissued with incredible accuracy The Bulova Lunar Pilot is getting rid of the date and coming down to 43.5mm The Lunar Pilot will also be available in a blue and white colour scheme The 1960s space age was an incredible time for the progression of technology, even if NASA was … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulova Lunar Pilot and Accutron Astronaut prepare for lift off once again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2) Time+Tide
Feb 4, 2023

The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2)

In Part 1 of this DIY Series, we went over the steps for assembling your own watch from scratch. Even if that’s not the avenue for you, maybe there’s a watch in your collection that’s never been quite as perfect as you’d hoped. If you’ve ever bought and sold similar black-dialled dive watches over and … ContinuedThe post The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Owner’s Perspective: With The Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43” WatchAdvice
Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43” Feb 1, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: With The Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43”

Why I Bought It It was different to a SubmarinerI like slightly larger watchesAll the Rolex heritage with a modern look The Ownership Reality It would help if you had a medium-sized wrist to pull it offNot great with a suit and cuffWe need to part with over $4000 more to own vs a Sub with a date! Overall rating: 8.25 /10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 I was never a Rolex lover. There I said it. I thought Rolex was a brand for people that wanted to show off and tell people they had money and didn’t really know about watches. For some people, this is still probably the case, but this all changed for me many years ago once I started delving a lot more into the watch world, brands and their history, as well as their manufacturing techniques. And when I started researching Rolex a little, I started to understand just what made them tick, so to speak (yes, bad pun intended!) Now, I have a lot of respect for The Crown, what they stand for, and the processes and materials they use. The fact that they are one of the very few brands that develop and make their watches fully in-house, end to end, including metallurgists who develop the specific properties and proprietary blends of metals that go into them, including a foundry, I was a convert. These days I see Rolex for what Hans Wilsdorf originally intended – a tool watch that is able to handle whatever you throw at them and is designed for specific industries and occupations. Whilst mos...

Breitling Pays Tribute to Giants in the Sky with Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747 Worn & Wound
Breitling Pays Tribute Jan 27, 2023

Breitling Pays Tribute to Giants in the Sky with Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747

When the Boeing 747 was revealed to the world in 1968, it instantly introduced a new era in air travel. Those in attendance, press and interested aviators alike, had no words for what they were looking at. The sheer size of the aircraft and its distinct upward curve above the flight deck was nothing like any other plane that was carrying passengers 30,000 feet up in the air at the time. It quickly became a coveted experience to travel in a Boeing 747, and that’s saying something considering this was a time where people got dressed up to fly in an airplane. Not like now, where sweatpants, a cozy hoodie, and noise canceling headphones are the norm. Flying back then was an event. The lore of the Boeing 747 only grew, as it was featured in many films including the 1973 James Bond flick, Live and Let Die. Even till this very day, the 747 is the aircraft of choice for the President of the United States. Introducing For The First Time Ever, The Boeing 747 But like all good things, they must come to an end. After 1,570 individual jets and 53 years of navigating the skies, the Boeing 747 has finally decided to retire. And to celebrate the original jumbo jet, Breitling has released a limited edition piece in partnership with Boeing called the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747. Breitling has a history that is deep rooted in aviation. Their very first designs, from dial layout to various complications, were created with pilots in mind. With both brands having a rich heritage i...

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & Jan 26, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition

The idea of a re-edition within the watch market is nothing new. Many brands have woken up to the huge demand for revivals, recreations, or remixes of their lauded vintage references. But when these designs date to the specialist era of watchmaking, where multiple brands turned to the same dial, case, and movement manufacturers, there … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook Dec 30, 2022

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world

Watches. They broadly tell the time, but the way in which they do so is where things get interesting. You have your minimalists, which strip things down to the barest of elements: an hour and minute hand. Once you begin to add complications, like a second hand, a chronograph function, day/date apertures, perpetual calendars, and … ContinuedThe post Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Start your (virtual) engines… The IWC Esports Challenge at Battersea Power Station Time+Tide
IWC Esports Challenge Dec 15, 2022

Start your (virtual) engines… The IWC Esports Challenge at Battersea Power Station

The first time I set foot in a luxury watch boutique was for a sim racing competition in 2019, driving a GT3 car around the Hungaroring. I won a pen, notebook, and baseball cap for my third place ranking, and figured that I’d pretty much peaked in my sim racing career. IWC went down a … ContinuedThe post Start your (virtual) engines… The IWC Esports Challenge at Battersea Power Station appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Dec 7, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience

Seiko has a long history in chronographs, including their first manually wound model from 1964, and the iconic 6139 – the first automatic chrono to hit the market in 1969. That was also the year of the world’s first quartz watch, the Seiko Astron. Naturally, the brands have therefore had a lot of experience producing … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’ is the Sports Chronograph with a Soft Touch Revolution
Angelus Nov 25, 2022

The Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’ is the Sports Chronograph with a Soft Touch

The Angelus Chronodate that was relaunched this year can trace its roots all the way back to the original Chronodatos from the 1940s, a triple-calendar chronograph that were scarce commodities at the time. Despite retaining the big eye counters and central date indicator, the current Chronodate is resolutely contemporary with a multi-part exoskeleton case made […]

MB&F; Sequential EVO takes home the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix prize at 2022 GPHG Awards Time+Tide
MB&F; Nov 12, 2022

MB&F; Sequential EVO takes home the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix prize at 2022 GPHG Awards

Editor’s Note: Yesterday, the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) was held. For those who don’t know, it is basically the Oscars of watchmaking. But while there are many prizes to win, one stands above the rest: the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix prize. And this year’s winner is the MB&F;, Legacy Machine Sequential EVO. So … ContinuedThe post MB&F; Sequential EVO takes home the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix prize at 2022 GPHG Awards appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet used Oct 30, 2022

VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision

It’s well-known that between 1975 and 1985, the Swiss watch industry collapsed and its chances of survival looked slim. Many manufacturers went bust or were forced to join larger conglomerates. The primary cause of the disruption was, of course, the innovation of electronic quartz movements. On Christmas day, 1969, Seiko released the Astron, the first-ever … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 27, 2022

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide

To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does).  Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...

The changing reality of wearing a watch in New York City Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2022

The changing reality of wearing a watch in New York City

It’s a Saturday morning in New York City. For years, I’ve enjoyed the comfort and privacy of driving around the city as my form of transportation. But this Saturday I want to avoid having to pay the prices of a parking garage. So for the first time in what feels like forever, I’m about to … ContinuedThe post The changing reality of wearing a watch in New York City appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President Time+Tide
Richard Mille there These are snapshots Oct 15, 2022

Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President

Celebrity watchspotting can be a bit trivial at times – a Royal Oak here, a Richard Mille there. These are snapshots of individuals who have made it and have the means and access to strap any watch to their wrist that they desire. Which is why it is that much more interesting to hear the … ContinuedThe post Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Oct 13, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart

With a near-unparalleled history in auto racing, TAG Heuer’s latest is a light-hearted take on its storied past. Inspired by the famous plumber now driving a go-kart, the Formula 1 X Mario Kart pair are both limited-edition chronographs, each opposing ends of the price spectrum. The base model is the Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph with an “Easter egg” date display, while the top-of-the-line model is a variant of TAG Heuer’s tourbillon-chronograph with the COSC-certified Calibre Heuer 02T movement. Initial thoughts Pop culture adds levity to mechanical watchmaking and usually enhances the appeal, which is why the approach is a familiar one. Gerald Genta did it, and more recently RJ-Romain Jerome. TAG Heuer did it for the first time last year with the Connected × Super Mario that sold out swiftly, proving the appeal of the Italian plumber. But the Connected was a smartwatch, while the pair of new releases are both mechanical, so they have appeal for watch enthusiasts. The Formula 1 Chronograph is basic but affordable, and livened up by subtle-but-clever Mario elements, like a date display with symbols from the game instead of numerals. The Formula 1 chronograph The tourbillon, on the other hand, is essentially an amusingly whimsical iteration of TAG Heuer’s standard tourbillon-chronograph, while not costing that much more, making it a more compelling proposition than the somewhat plain regular-production model. Mario around the track Inspired by the Nintendo...

HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 Time+Tide
Nomos Club Sport neomatik 37 Oct 12, 2022

HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37

We’ve sung many praises for the unique way that NOMOS integrates their Bauhaus-driven design language even when creating tough, water-resistant watches like the Ahoi. The same can be said for the new NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37, thus far only available in a date-equipped 42mm model. This new, downsized release houses the impressively thin neomatik … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Sep 19, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies

A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...

Book Review: MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years SJX Watches
MB&F; Sep 19, 2022

Book Review: MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years

MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. By Suzanne Wong and William Massena. La Martinière/Abrams; CHF198 for M.A.D. Gallery edition; US$170 for standard edition. To celebrate its 15 years – from 2005 to 2020 – of making extraordinary watches, MB&F; commissioned a 312-page book, MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. In its short foreword, MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser states he did not want a biography since they are “only written at the end of a journey”. Instead, he puts forward the rhetorical question: developing 18 calibres for over 160 products over the period “deserves to be documented, right?” He adds “hundreds of artisans, engineers and watchmakers” came along for the ride and “this is the story I love to tell”. He describes the tome as a catalogue raisonné, adding that it is something “never been done for a watch brand; a world first in the watchmaking industry!” Defined by the New York Public Library, a catalogue raisonné in the visual arts serves as an important tool not just to establish an artist’s oeuvre, and thus record history, but also to aid in authentication by cataloguing all the known works of an artist. The New York Public Library also adds “Essay(s) on the artist” and “Critical assessments and remarks” as desirable content in such a publication. All the watches and all the friends The main part of the book is such a catalogue of 254 pages, divided into three sections: “Horological Machines”, “Legacy Machines”, ...

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2022

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family

Editor’s Note: When Nicolas Cage recently gushed over his Grand Seiko on the red carpet, many of you in the comments noted how he should become an ambassador for the brand – and we agreed it would definitely be a fun pairing. This then got us thinking what other ambassador match-ups we would want to see. … ContinuedThe post Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Syroco celebrates a boat set to break the sailing speed record Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Syroco Aug 31, 2022

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Syroco celebrates a boat set to break the sailing speed record

Hamilton is no stranger to daring exploits, whether that be in the sea, skies or the silver screen. Last year, the Swatch Group member announced their partnership with Syroco, a company looking to create a wind-powered vessel capable of reaching tremendous speeds while sailing across the water. Fast-forward to now and Syroco has developed their … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Syroco celebrates a boat set to break the sailing speed record appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new Longines Master Collection in 34mm Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection Aug 26, 2022

INTRODUCING: The new Longines Master Collection in 34mm

I recently wrote an article about the best 34mm watches that anyone can wear, and although the marketing is mostly feminine-orientated, I believe that the new additions to the Longines Master Collection could well be another option. The new 34mm size presents a great option for those who love classic proportions, and perhaps want something … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Longines Master Collection in 34mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.