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You Don’t Wanna Mess With The Black-Dial Certina DS-2 Powermatic 80 On A Steel Mesh Bracelet Fratello
Certina DS-2 Powermatic 80 Aug 29, 2026

You Don’t Wanna Mess With The Black-Dial Certina DS-2 Powermatic 80 On A Steel Mesh Bracelet

Yes, this watch’s origins unmistakably lie in the 1960s. Still, the black-dial Certina DS-2 on a steel mesh bracelet seems to be in the right place at the right time. Its black lacquered dial, sharp lines, and steel mesh bracelet give it a look you don’t want to mess with. We almost didn’t dare tell […] Visit You Don’t Wanna Mess With The Black-Dial Certina DS-2 Powermatic 80 On A Steel Mesh Bracelet to read the full article.

Go Big or Go Home: Fears Adds Its First High Complication with a QP Worn & Wound
Fears Adds Aug 28, 2026

Go Big or Go Home: Fears Adds Its First High Complication with a QP

Fears has decided to add its first high complication by tackling one of the most complex of them all: the perpetual calendar. Charting new territory seems like just the right way to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary since its renaissance in 2016. The introduction of a QP to the flagship Brunswick line isn’t the only headline. The collection gets a new case architecture with wide polished bevels making it the thinnest Brunswick watch in the line at 9.4mm. The Brunswick has been a defining collection for Fears since its introduction in 2017, marking the first mechanical line of the modern era. Yet, the collection is also an homage to the brand’s past with a vintage-inspired cushion shape case, onion crown, and signature sector dial. The design mixes these aesthetics with distinct typography and numerals derived from a piece from the brand’s archives. It only feels fitting that this collection would serve as the foundation for Fears’ first high complication in 180 years.Even with the addition of day, date, month, year, and leap year indications that make up a perpetual calendar, Fears has managed to keep the Brunswick QP compact at just 39mm. When it comes to high complications, the composition of the movement is usually the main limiting factor when it comes to sizing. Here, we can thank the Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module, atop a hand-finished Sellita SW300 as its base movement. This caliber has been modified specifically for this watch, giving it its...

Unleash Your Inner Beast With The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute To The Animal Kingdom Watches Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute Aug 28, 2026

Unleash Your Inner Beast With The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute To The Animal Kingdom Watches

You know you’re looking at something extremely exclusive if a watch is part of the One of Not Many Crafts Program. And that’s what the six Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Animal Kingdom watches are. The project explores how crafts outside the traditional watchmaking repertoire can be adapted to the scale and technical […] Visit Unleash Your Inner Beast With The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute To The Animal Kingdom Watches to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin’s Adventures in the Animal Kingdom SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Adventures Aug 28, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Adventures in the Animal Kingdom

As part of the brand’s “One of Not Many Crafts” programme, Vacheron Constantin is experimenting with a series of concept watches decorated with unexpected artisanal crafts, Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Animal Kingdom. Some of the decorative method have never before used by Vacheron Constantin, or even watchmaking at large. The series is made up of six creative watches – each a unique creation – that run the gamut of rare crafts, some that are traditional in watchmaking, like gold embroidery, but others that are surprising, like origami. Each watch has a whimsical name stemming from the subject and method: Feathersnake, Glassoctopus, Oraygami, Tigerbroidery, Papercroc, and Woodenwings. From left: Woodenwings, Feathersnake, and Tigerbroidery Initial thoughts These are one-off concept watches, so both availability and price are moot points. But they are impressive, both in terms of technique and visuals, so I imagine Vacheron Constantin will be turning to these artisans for more watches eventually. All are striking, but a few stand out. Papercroc might well be my favourite of the lot, though Vacheron Constantin missed the opportunity to make a paper tiger. On the other hand, when the exotic technique on a tiny scale and quality of the result are taken together, Tigerbroidery is arguably one of Vacheron Constantin’s greatest achievements in the rare crafts field. Papercroc Others stand out for the technique. Part of Glassoctopus’s appeal is the rawness of the ...

Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Cardinal Points Aug 27, 2026

Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller

There were three watches I was disappointed to have missed at Watches & Wonders. To be fair, I missed all the releases at Watches & Wonders this year, but in my mind, the three most interesting watches from the show were the Vacheron Constantin Overseas "Cardinal Points," the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux, and this watch from Laurent Ferrier: the Sport Traveller. I like the Laurent Ferrier brand a lot. But I've been wondering whether, in hindsight, I was a bit harsh on their entry-level Sport Auto when it was released in 2023. I liked the watch in theory, but in practice I had a few minor issues with the bracelet fit and tolerance, the thickness, and the price. I know a few people who own the watch, and my feelings have softened over time. But reading that old review, I wonder if I was right or just picking nits. This year's release of the Sport Traveller combined one of my two favorite complications—travel time/GMT—with lightweight titanium, which seems to be le matériel du jour.  It also gave me a chance to reevaluate my take on the watch, especially in a market that's become even more crowded and an audience that's more price-sensitive. Let's tackle the specs first and then move on to the feelings. Measuring 42mm by 13.3mm thick in grade 5 titanium, with 100m of water resistance, the watch is only 0.5mm wider and 0.6mm thicker than the original Sport Auto, which shows the strength of the movement design in being able to pack an extra complic...

Dispatch: Diving With Force Blue And Luminox For Reef Restoration In Miami Hodinkee
Luminox Aug 26, 2026

Dispatch: Diving With Force Blue And Luminox For Reef Restoration In Miami

Luminox is honoring its partnership with Force Blue by releasing a new Pacific Diver reference designed around the pair's shared mission to protect and rehabilitate the world's oceans. Luminox has a long history of working with branches of the US Military since their founding in 1989, but their relationship with Force Blue is a bit different. To better understand their mission and get a first look at a new watch built around the partnership, I hopped on a plane down to Miami with fins and mask in hand, ready to dive with the team. Many brands claim working relationships with military outfits, each with varying degrees of formality. Whether it's a licensed relationship to use military trademarks, or even individual service members using their personal watches, the link between a brand and the act of service can be difficult to judge at a glance. For Luminox, that connection was baked in from the get-go. In 1992, founder Barry Cohen worked with Assistant Research, Development, Test and Evaluation (RDT&E;) Officer Nick North to develop a watch specifically for the Navy SEALs using their tritium tube-based Luminox Light Technology (LLT). The Navy SEAL watch was the first stone in what would become a broad foundation of work with special forces and law enforcement groups worldwide. It's a foundation that Mondain would continue to lean on after acquiring a stake in the brand in 2006 and full ownership in 2016. Today, Luminox maintains a licensing relationship with the US Navy SEA...

Introducing: Ming's New 57.05 'Comet' Worldtime Is Out Of This World Innovation Hodinkee
Ming s New 57.05 Comet Aug 26, 2026

Introducing: Ming's New 57.05 'Comet' Worldtime Is Out Of This World Innovation

What We Know It feels like Ming has another hit on its hands here. The new 57.05 "Comet" immediately looked like a cool watch before I even looked at the press release, but once you dig into the specifics, it's pretty impressive, with all the usual Ming flair to boot. That means, yes, there's a pretty cool dial (that has a touch of vintage inspiration). There's an intensely stylized case. There's lume used aplenty (and creatively), and yes, there's innovation in a new patent-pending daylight saving time (DST) world time adjustment system. Let's start from the outside and work our way in. The 316L stainless steel case measures 40mm by 10.3mm with a 47.8mm lug-to-lug. This is a part of Ming's 57 Series design language, so it's got triple-stepped lugs (requiring nine individual components for the lug construction). The next step is the world time bezel. That's where the magic really starts. With a normal 24-hour world time display, you can get by just fine. Yes, not all DST adjustments happen at the same time (if they happen at all), but adjusting for any of them is a problem. Ming has arranged all cities with DST on the outer bezel; non-DST cities are on the inner bezel. You can rotate the outer bezel one click (15º) to move only the DST cities forward by one hour against the 24-hour scale. The bezel will stay fixed in either position, but if you're trying to figure out whether or not DST is engaged or not, you can just look at the small aperture between eight and nine on t...

Business News: Middle East War Forces The Escapement To Cancel Abu Dhabi Event And Move To Las Vegas Hodinkee
Aug 26, 2026

Business News: Middle East War Forces The Escapement To Cancel Abu Dhabi Event And Move To Las Vegas

Organizers of The Escapement, a planned gathering aimed at attracting thousands of watch collectors and enthusiasts, featuring major independent brands and scheduled for November in Abu Dhabi, canceled the event due to corporate travel restrictions related to the ongoing military conflict in the Middle East. They say they will now stage the three-day show in Las Vegas in February, 2027.  Neeshu Hajra, a U.S.-based luxury event-planning executive who is among the shareholders of the group organizing the event, said some watch brands and executives would have been unable to attend the show at the Etihad Arena in Abu Dhabi due to travel policies affected by the ongoing war in the region. The Escapement will now hold its inaugural event next year at the T-Mobile Arena in Las Vegas from February 5 to 7. "Our decision was mainly made due to corporate travel policies that affected certain brands and the ability to come.  Ultimately,  because this is our inaugural edition, we want to make sure that we have the strongest showing and the best surface area for success," Hajra said in an interview. "The community experience in its totality, both leading up to the event and on site, led us to really believe in Vegas," he added. Biver watches is one of the many brands expected to exhibit at The Escapement.  The event's cancellation and rescheduling underscore the challenges and disruptions to global business and the watch industry amid military conflicts in the Middle East and Ukrai...

Just Because - Carved in Titanium, the Fully-Engraved Urwerk UR-1001 Amadeus Monochrome
Urwerk UR-1001 Amadeus There’s nothing Aug 26, 2026

Just Because - Carved in Titanium, the Fully-Engraved Urwerk UR-1001 Amadeus

There’s nothing conventional at Urwerk, and hardly any watch feels classic. Even the watch with the most traditional display of the time, the UR-10 SpaceMeter, remains some sort of a horological UFO for the wrist. And when you move from the wrist to the pocket, the brand becomes even more expressive, as exemplified by the extraordinary […]

Longines Masters The Monopusher SJX Watches
Montblanc Aug 25, 2026

Longines Masters The Monopusher

The Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher is a compelling showcase of the brand’s industrial expertise and increasingly compelling value proposition. The watch pairs 1930s charm with a thoroughly modern manually wound monopusher chronograph. The advanced calibre is complemented by a richly textured dial — in soft blue or warm silver — that features period-inspired pulsometer typography and applied numerals. Initial thoughts The Master Monopusher is illustrative of the industrial transformation that has taken place over the past decade at Longines. Like its rival Tudor, Longines has aggressively moved to incorporate advanced features like silicon hairsprings to create distance between itself and the ever-growing roster of brands that rely on more generic movement platforms that are widely available from suppliers like Sellita and La Joux-Perret. A decade ago, Longines’ latest and greatest monopusher chronograph had an industry-standard Nivarox hairspring, and was adjusted by means of a generic curb-pin regulator. Power reserve was a reasonable — but unimpressive — 54 hours. Fast-forward to today, and every one of these details has been meaningfully upgraded, giving consumers and collectors a reason to choose a mainstream powerhouse over an independent start-up. The advanced technical content results in an attractive value at US$3,900, a price that undercuts rivals like Montblanc that offer similar monopushers. Furthermore, that’s less money — in both ...

Review: Is the New Omega Speedmaster 38 the Modern Speedmaster Reduced? Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster 38 Aug 25, 2026

Review: Is the New Omega Speedmaster 38 the Modern Speedmaster Reduced?

The name “Speedmaster Reduced” is a blanket term for the Speedmaster Automatics with cases smaller than the iconic 42mm Omega Speedmaster Professional. First launched in the late ’80s, there is a dizzying number of references included in the “Reduced” family, some being more well-known than others, such as the ref. 3510.50 and ref. 3520.50.00. Always popular among the enthusiast community, they offered Speedy looks at sub-Speedy prices and, simply, a smaller option. Now considered “neo-vintage,” the Reduced models were discontinued around 2010. Something that is cool about the Speedmaster is that while it’s a singular watch, it’s also a design language. It’s the typography, marker style, hands, bezel, etc. As such, it can be molded to different formats and the end result still reads “Speedmaster.” This is perhaps best seen in the Mark series, but is also quite true of the Reduced models and, beginning in 2017, the Speedmaster 38. I might be in the minority here, but I like that Omega will go in weird directions with the non-Professional Speedmasters. Maybe they work, maybe they don’t, but I’m sure all will find an audience somewhere, or at some time. Even models like the Speedmaster Chronoscope, which makes no sense to me, have the potential to be future cult hits. And for a while, Omega went a bit weird with its smaller option. With a gap in the catalog left by the discontinuation of the Reduced references, Omega released the Speedmaster 38 lin...

Why Is Everything Inverted? SJX Watches
Voutilainen 28TI Aug 25, 2026

Why Is Everything Inverted?

At the beginning of the year, we wondered if 2026 might become the year of the jumping hours wristwatch. While that trend is still developing, a spate of new releases in the past few months has crystallised another trend that’s been taking shape for a number of years: the inverted movement. While not an altogether new format, it’s hard to miss its growing popularity. What is an inverted movement? There’s no hard-and-fast rule for what constitutes an inverted movement, since the category itself has emerged informally. That said, a simple definition takes the term at face value: a movement that’s been reversed inside the case, such that barrel(s), gear train, and escapement are fully exposed on the wrist. The dial, if there is one at all, is usually consigned to a dial flange or small, off-centre time display. Ordinarily, an inverted movement begins its product lifecycle like any other conventional calibre. The Voutilainen 28TI, for example, was adapted from the brand’s normal cal. 28, with an additional train over the centre wheel to reverse the direction of the hands. However, sometimes the inverted variant is selected as the launch platform, with a conventional sibling that follows later — sometimes much later. The inverted cal. 507DR that powered the Breguet Tradition 7027 — the watch that arguably pioneered this trend back in 2005 — pre-dated its conventional counterpart by two decades. The cal. VS00 that powers the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 is...

Happenings: Hodinkee Happy Hour Returns To SoHo This Thursday Hodinkee
Aug 24, 2026

Happenings: Hodinkee Happy Hour Returns To SoHo This Thursday

Earlier this month, we had the pleasure of hosting our Hodinkee Happy Hour at One Vanderbilt. If you missed it, don't fret! We're excited to announce the next installment of Hodinkee Happy Hour, which will take place at the Watches of Switzerland store in SoHo, just a stone's throw from the Hodinkee office. Expect the same casual format as our Hodinkee Happy Hours, with great food, drinks, and watches. Space is limited, so be sure to RSVP using the link below to secure your spot. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with other members of the Hodinkee team. We'd love for you to join us, whether it's your first time or you've already attended several Hodinkee events. There will be plenty of food from Upside Pizza and beers from our friends at Grotta to go around. Date:Thursday, August 27, 2026, 4:30 - 6:30 PM Location:Watches of Switzerland, SoHo60 Greene StreetNew York, NY 10012 Click here to RSVP.

Recommended Reading: 'Universal People, Universal Dreams' Is A Timely, Heartfelt Telling Of One Man's Collecting Journey Into The Rarest Of The Rare Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Aug 24, 2026

Recommended Reading: 'Universal People, Universal Dreams' Is A Timely, Heartfelt Telling Of One Man's Collecting Journey Into The Rarest Of The Rare

Last week I kicked off a mini-series where I'm finally taking some great books off my shelf and sharing them with the world. We covered a brand-backed "Grand Seiko" book by ERG Media, which set a great tone. This week we're looking at another brand-focused tome, the much more recently released "Universal People, Universal Dreams," which documents the hyper-focused collection of one man. But it's more than a book about Universal Genève. I first met the author and publisher, Luca Mignini, a few years ago, though I'm not exactly sure where. Maybe at an auction in Geneva? At some point, he just turned into a fixture in my vintage watch sphere, a person who could turn up anywhere there was a vintage watch. At the famed antique fair in Parma, Italy? Sure. Luca Mignini and Max Bernardini He had a prototype Universal Genève Space Compax/Polerouter Sub dive watch made for the U.S. Navy, which I shared in my photo report from the fair. On that same trip, he just randomly showed up as I was looking at Patek 1518 dials with Max Bernardini (Uncle Max, to his close friends) at his shop right across the street from "The Last Supper" in Milan. That later encounter makes sense, as Bernardini (and his team, including Mauricio Gimenez, who is named as "The Trusted Advisor" in the book) was instrumental in curating the collection. Mignini frequently travels between his home in Rome and Milan, where he serves as a professor at Bocconi University.  During the COVID-19 pandemic, Mignini and B...

The Evolution Of “Ultimate Simplicity” - Introducing The Minase Mastercraft J3 Fratello
Minase Aug 24, 2026

The Evolution Of “Ultimate Simplicity” - Introducing The Minase Mastercraft J3

As time passes, you often accumulate stuff. Visualize what’s in your attic, and you’ll know what I’m talking about. Now, Minase is doing the opposite. The new J3 is a model inspired by the M3, but instead of adding details to that watch, Minase removes what it deems unnecessary. You’re looking at the evolution of […] Visit The Evolution Of “Ultimate Simplicity” — Introducing The Minase Mastercraft J3 to read the full article.

The Photographer Preserving Centuries Of Pocket Watches Fratello
Aug 22, 2026

The Photographer Preserving Centuries Of Pocket Watches

Today, we have a slightly different story here on Fratello. This is the experience of one New Zealand photographer who has been diligently capturing the mechanical lives of pocket watches at the Tāmaki Paenga Hira Auckland Museum. There’s a big difference between commercial watch photography and museum archiving. Commercial photography is about selling a fantasy […] Visit The Photographer Preserving Centuries Of Pocket Watches to read the full article.

eBay Finds: Classics from Omega, a Well Preserved Bulova, and More Worn & Wound
Accutron Aug 21, 2026

eBay Finds: Classics from Omega, a Well Preserved Bulova, and More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Bulova  Starting off this week with a nice vintage Bulova dress watch. At first glance I thought it was an Accutron with the dial and hands, but it’s an automatic Bulova. The yellow gold fill case has a fancy etched bezel to go with the radial brushed dial. This gives the watch a low-key bling look that isn’t too loud. The case is in good shape, as is the dial and hands. This one is time only, no date window. The automatic Bulova caliber 11ALAC movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The watch comes on a handsome leather strap that really goes well. Great looking piece with a high quality movement that should be reasonably priced at hammer time. View auction here Vintage Omega Speedmaster Professional  Here’s one that will not be easy on the wallet, but a vintage Omega Speedmaster is worth the money, it’s all that and a bag of chips. This example is from the late 1970s/early 1980s and is likely a ref 144.022, but don’t hold me to it as there are no pictures of the inside caseback or the movement. The iconic case looks unpolished with razor sharp edges on the bombe lugs. The tachymetre bezel is also in superb condition. The black dial looks original and super c...

Bring a Loupe: A Seiko Sportura, A Breitling Tabarly Racing Mate, A Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski, And More Hodinkee
Breitling Tabarly Racing Mate Aug 21, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Seiko Sportura, A Breitling Tabarly Racing Mate, A Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski, And More

I know we're all here for watches, but there's been so much killer music released in the last bit that it feels foolish not to at least note that, should you require some new jams, recent albums from Twisted Teens and Phoebe Bridgers are plenty deserving of attention, and if you haven't checked out the available tracks from the new Alabama Shakes, hoo boy. I hope you're all well as the days tick along. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Lemania RAF monopusher sold for 2,000 GBP, and I can't find what the Goodwill UG Clapton ultimately went for, but I saw it cleared $24,000. From the dealers, the Alpina-Gruen sold. The Cartier Shutter and RAN monopusher both remain available. Strays You really like watches and are also a sophisticated connoisseur, and you need a new table lighter—to ignite your guests' cigars; what sort of host would you be otherwise—because someone made off with your last one? Here's a nice sterling Alfred Dunhill for you which, yes, has a watch in it as well because, again, you're sophisticated. Had there not been another watch in the same auction that seemed more interesting, this Omega 2998-4 would obviously have had a full write-up, but I'm also not sure what I would've written other than look at that thing. If you're up for a trio of watches, this lot's got a Tourneau "Top Gun," a solid gold Charles Nicolet, and a fowl-related Helbros for the hunter in your life; and while this Audemars Freres has a rough dial, Audemars Freres watches are uncommo...

Fratello Talks: Building A Dream Two-Watch Collection Fratello
Aug 20, 2026

Fratello Talks: Building A Dream Two-Watch Collection

Two watches should be enough, at least in theory. If you had no budget limitations and could own only two watches, which would you choose? The challenge isn’t simply to pick two favorites. With only two spots available, both watches need to earn their place. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by […] Visit Fratello Talks: Building A Dream Two-Watch Collection to read the full article.

Version Watches, and a Uniquely French Take on Midcentury Design Worn & Wound
Meistersinger Aug 19, 2026

Version Watches, and a Uniquely French Take on Midcentury Design

Cybèle Vigneron and Carla Lanfranchini first met at the Strate École de Design outside of Paris, arriving at the institution with enviable backgrounds: Lanfranchini had served as an artistic director and graphic designer at Dom Pérignon and Château de Pommard, while Vigneron honed her career in store design planning and visual merchandising at Cartier, Bulgari, and Berluti. The two became fast friends. After both earning dual degrees in design as well as business management, they established Version Watches in 2024.  They were entering a crowded field where microbrands have never been more popular, with even greater opportunities for designers and watchmaking visionaries to express themselves. Over the past two years, as they worked in separate cities and handled branding, design, distribution, and a successful Kickstarter launch, the two-person team were motivated by uniqueness: “we wanted to approach watchmaking from a pure designer’s perspective rather than just assembling off-the-shelf components or relying purely on nostalgia,” said Vigneron. We first saw Vision on display in New York at Tempus Takumi, a showcase of independent watchmaking that pointedly focuses on watches made outside of Switzerland. Alongside the design-driven, accessible collections from Germany’s MeisterSinger and Japan’s Minase, Version fit right in. Both founders were present and clearly happy to show off their creations, making their debut to an American audience. Accessibility i...

Introducing: Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Classic Series Hodinkee
Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Aug 18, 2026

Introducing: Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Classic Series

What We Know It may not always come as a surprise when Seiko releases a new collaboration, at least in the abstract. Still, it is always exciting to see just who Seiko has chosen to partner with, and what that partnership can turn into. This time, Seiko has paired itself with Tradman's Bonsai, a Japanese creative collective whose mission is to celebrate and continue exploring the traditional art of Japanese Bonsai through both the creation of Bonsai spaces and the pursuit of collaborations with brands in the street culture, fashion, and art worlds. The result here is the latest addition to Seiko's Presage line, Seiko's dressier alternative to other, more technical watch families likeProspex. It's also the line Seiko often uses to celebrate heritage Japanese aesthetics and artistry, making it a perfect canvas for Seiko to honor Bonsai, an art form that involves growing, cultivating, and shaping small-scale trees with rigorous dedication and precision. With this watch, Seiko has evoked Bonsai trees in several ways, most clearly with the introduction of a new dial color and texture. Inspired by the bark of aging pine trees, the new pattern gently spirals outward from the center of the dial and is paired with a deep green gradient treatment and a dual-curved sapphire crystal with an AR coating on the inside. A 38mm stainless steel case with a fluted bezel and yellow-gold-tone finish houses the dial and the watch's 6R51 movement, a time-only automatic from Seiko with a 72-hour ...

Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Les Opus Aug 18, 2026

Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus

The many shapes of Cartier were on full display at Cartier during Watches & Wonders, where the brand released the Privé Les Opus, a trio of platinum models with burgundy accents to mark the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Privé collection. The Crash Squelette is the only all-new model — with a new open-worked calibre — and the only limited edition. The Tank Normale and Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir tread little new ground, but the platinum-and-burgundy livery is easy to like, and manages to be both distinctive and discreet. Initial thoughts Cartier occupies an enviable position in the luxury watch landscape, being the only brand among the top 10 luxury watchmakers (by revenue) with a sizable jewellery business. Perhaps for this reason, it’s also the only brand to achieve this level of success primarily on the basis of design, rather than technical innovation or haute horlogerie complications. The Opus trio proves why. Cartier earned its reputation as the “watchmaker of shapes” over more than a century, and today enjoys a rich back catalogue of designs. The three models chosen to represent the 10th anniversary of the brand’s high-end Privé line — the Tank Normale, the Crash, and the Tortue Monopoussoir — are among the fan favourites. The Tank Normale — especially on this bracelet — is one of my favourite Cartier models, offering a truly vintage look with modern build quality. Reflecting Cartier’s growth as an industrial watchmaker, each watch...

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Rebuilds Aug 17, 2026

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up

I've always had a certain fascination with world timers—for one, it's a practical complication, but mostly because I love watching brands solve the problem of presenting a lot of information—text, numbers, data—and condensing it into a dial that actually works. When it works, it really works. So when I heard Frederique Constant was updating their Classic Worldtimer at Watches and Wonders this year, I was intrigued. The broader market is fascinated with world timers too. If the upper end is any indicator that world timers are trending, look at what the ref. 2523 "South America Map" Patek sold for a few months ago. Couple that with brands exploring different ways into the complication—our own Ben Clymer spent time in Geneva last fall and came back with lavish praise for a world timer from Andersen Genève, calling it the favorite thing he saw on the entire trip. But the big hiccup for me with world timers has always been simple: they're often quite expensive. World time, generally, was historically reserved for a brand's most exclusive references, in precious metals, running mid-five-figure to low-six-figure—only in recent years have brands like Nomos, Omega, Breitling, and IWC started offering steel versions, which dragged the entry point down to the mid-four-figure range. Frederique Constant has been chipping away at that problem for well over a decade now, and with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture release at Watches and Wonders this year, I think they've crack...

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review (WV211B): Am I Stuck in a 7-Year Dream with the Inception Watch? WatchRider
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review Aug 17, 2026

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review (WV211B): Am I Stuck in a 7-Year Dream with the Inception Watch?

I added the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 (Ref. WV211B.BA0787) to my collection back in 2019. Since then, I’ve been wearing it through various phases of daily life, travel and work. This review is not going to be filled with breathless hype or exaggerated claims about horological perfection. Instead, it is an honest, personal look at what it is actually like owning this specific Carrera. If you are considering buying one on the pre-owned market, this review is for you. And yes, we definitely need to talk about Inception. If you are short on time, here are the Pros and Cons The Pros: Timeless Dimensions: The 39mm case is extremely comfortable, versatile and avoids aging poorly with changing fashion trends.   Exceptional Build Quality: Punches well above its price point with crisp case edges, alternating polished and brushed steel, dual sapphire crystals and a beautifully finished bracelet. Cinematic Pedigree: While it shouldn’t be the only reason to buy a watch, the connection to Inception adds a layer of enjoyable history to the piece. Reliable Movement: The Calibre 5 is a robust, well-known movement that will never be difficult or exorbitantly expensive to maintain. The Cons: Water Resistance: 50 meters with a push-pull crown restricts this watch to land-based activities. Lug Width: The 19mm lug width makes sourcing third-party straps slightly inconvenient.   Lack of Clasp Adjustment: Achieving the perfect bracelet fit relies strictly on adding or removing h...

The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Neo-vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Aug 17, 2026

The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre

Neo-vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre is an enthusiast’s delight. The watch that crystallized this for me is a Reverso Classique reference 252.8.86. It is a steel, manually wound example from the mid-2000s that recently crossed the block at auction. On paper, it is an unremarkable watch. No complications, no complications, and a relatively humble (for the brand) view […] Visit The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200 Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs Casio Aug 16, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200

With the summer break still in full swing, it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. In today’s match-up, two watches that could have easily made for your perfect affordable summer watch. But that would also be selling them short, because they are great for daily wear at a friendly price. Daan’s pick this week is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200 to read the full article.

Tried And Tested: The CIGA Design Hunter Titanium Skeleton Automatic Fratello
Aug 15, 2026

Tried And Tested: The CIGA Design Hunter Titanium Skeleton Automatic

My first encounter with CIGA Design was with its Blue Planet model. In 2021, it won the Challenge Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), which obviously gave it some proper traction. Although CIGA Design has been producing watches since 2016, I’d say 2021 was really a turning point for the Shenzhen-based […] Visit Tried And Tested: The CIGA Design Hunter Titanium Skeleton Automatic to read the full article.