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Time+Tide
It is with a palpable sense of frustration that I must start my 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection with a pretty serious caveat - I had started writing this list before the now infamous Rolex price hike of 2020. As a result, I will be utilising the Big Crown’s 2019 prices so as to keep within … ContinuedThe post James’ 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
To mark its 160th anniversary this year, TAG Heuer just unveiled the Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition, a remake of the Carrera 2447S from 1964 that’s a quintessential vintage Heuer. Though simple, the ref. 2447S is still fairly distinctive with a monochromatic colour palette and the recognisable Carrera case with its facetted lugs. The ref. 2447S was characterised by a radially brushed silver dial – the “S” in the model reference denotes a standard, silver dial without a tachymetric scale – that arrived only in 1964, replacing the white dial that was one of the launch colours, alongside black. Limited to 1860 pieces, the Carrera 160 Years Silver remains largely faithful to the original, save for a few tweaks like a larger size, restyled hands and necessary technical upgrades such as water resistance and the movement. While the original was 36 mm, the remake is 39 mm, a more appropriate size for a modern watch, if not exactly ideal for a remake. But it is finished just like the original, being entirely polished. And the case is topped by a domed sapphire crystal, which replicates the look of the acrylic glass on the original. A Carrera ref. 2447D, which shares the same silver dial but includes a decimal scale Besides the case, another obvious difference on the remake are the chronograph registers: the running seconds is now at six o’clock, while it sat at nine on the original. That is a consequence of the in-house movement inside. A more subtle upgrade ...
Revolution
TAG Heuer releases a classic Carrera with modern movement to celebrate the company’s 160 years.
Quill & Pad
To celebrate the new Chinese Year of the Rat, some high-end watchmakers have created special editions depicting some form of the resourceful rodent. Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at eight of them.
SJX Watches
There are a lot of traditions in the luxury watch industry. From the use of pegwood to polish bevels, to the Roman “IV” rendered as “IIII”, the culture of watchmaking is full of interesting customs passed down over generations. But the most fundamental tradition remains the reliance on incremental improvements towards better timekeeping. “Better” might mean absolute performance measured over a defined period such as an observatory trial (the objective of the superstar régleurs), or reliable long-term performance on the wrist. Regardless, for almost four hundred years the quest for better precision was the guiding principle of the trade. To paraphrase from historian David S. Landes’ Revolution in Time, “… it has always been the rule that the quality of [a watch] is a function of [its] precision.” Omega cal. 47.7 observatory chronometer, where the barrel and balance occupy almost all of the diameter. Image – Omega Today, some 50 years after mechanical timekeepers were left in the dust by their “better” electronic brethren, some makers of mechanical watches are more pious in their observance of this traditional approach to incremental improvement than their competitors. And if we look carefully, we can quantify this difference in approach by looking at how different watchmakers choose to use the available energy within their movements. Our interest was to find a way to quantify which watchmakers are making high-performance timekeeping choices and ...
Hodinkee
At the end of the day, it's all about passion, people.
Time+Tide
Outfits change when the clock strikes five on Friday afternoon - suits, shirts, ties, leather shoes … all of it makes way for weekend savoir-faire. And if you’re the type of person who likes to get out amongst it at the weekend, whether it be hiking, mountain biking, 4WD … you name it, what you want … ContinuedThe post Marvellous mil-specs: 3 great military-spec watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
John Reardon is one of the world’s foremost experts on collectible vintage watches, having recently left his position as Christie’s International Head of Watches, and one of the areas he is most passionate about is vintage Patek Philippe. So what better way to express that passion and put his wealth of knowledge to good use … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with one of the world’s foremost vintage Patek Philippe collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith’s collaboration with Land Rover has produced the best-looking Defy 21 to date. Clad in matte grey with a handful of orange accents, the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition is pared back and minimalist compared to the typical Defy chronograph. It’s essentially a more compelling variant of a watch that is already strong value for money. Launched to mark the unveiling of the 2020 Land Rover Defender, the new Defy 21 has a case of micro-blasted titanium. The metal has been sandblasted to create an extremely fine, grained surface finish, giving it a dark grey appearance with a hint of olive green that evokes military equipment. The dial is finished in a similar shade of grey, with most of it reduced to the essentials. Both the hands and hour markers have been slimmed down and minimised, as has the power reserve indicator, which is now a narrow, horizontal window. Most of the usual automotive design elements have been avoided on the Defy 21, with the exception of the rotor, which is shaped like the wheel rim of the new Defender. But it is only visible from the back, and does not take away from the appealing minimalist look of the watch. Mechanically the Land Rover Edition is identical to the standard Defy 21, meaning it has twin oscillators and going trains, one for the timekeeping and the other for the 1/100th of a second chronograph. Key facts and price Defy 21 Land Rover Edition Ref. 97.9000.9004/01.R787 Diameter: 44 mm Height: 14.4 mm Material: Titanium Water resistance...
SJX Watches
Launched in 2005, the Big Bang was the watch that reestablished Hublot as a major watch brand. Fifteen years on, the model gets its most major revamp to date with the launch of the Big Bang Integral. While the basic concept is simple – it’s a Big Bang with an integrated bracelet – the new watch is a substantial upgrade in construction and finishing. The case was redesigned to fit the new bracelet, but also to accommodate a higher level of finishing. The Big Bang Integral King Gold Upgraded inside and out Most of the case edges, and also the pushers, have polished bevelling that contrasts with the brushed finishing on the top surfaces. The alternating surface finish continues onto the bracelet links, which are also facetted in profile. At the same time, the case construction has been improved in substance. Though the new case retains the traditional “sandwich” construction of the Big Bang, the filling of the “sandwich” is no longer resin, but is instead the same material as the front and back plates of the case. The only remaining resin bits are the resin lugs, or “ears”, on each side of the bezel at three and nine o’clock, the fundamental design feature of Hublot that was inspired by a ship’s porthole (hublot is porthole in French). The Big Bang Integral in titanium The All Black The new Big Bang is available in titanium or 18k King Gold as regular production models, and also the 500-piece limited edition Big Bang Integral All Black. Like its namesake...
Time+Tide
The standout from the new Zenith 2020 novelties is hands down the DEFY Midnight collection. What immediately caught my attention was that Zenith were leading their 2020 new releases with a women’s collection that appeared - in the preamble - to not only be a new product in itself, with various attributes, but for those attributes to … ContinuedThe post The Zenith DEFY Midnight is a (very) early contender for women’s collection of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Up until a month ago, if you’d asked me whether or not it was appropriate for a man to have diamonds adorning his timepiece, my response would’ve gone something like, “Only if he’s a vapid member of the glitterati, or his vocation is spitting bars”. Bedazzled, iced-out, frosty … whatever you want to call a … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Diamonds are a man’s best friend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Previously only available in titanium or carbon composite, Bulgari has now introduced the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in a precious metal case. While titanium and carbon composite are superior in transmitting sound thanks to their low density – making them ideal for striking watches – the new rose-gold version is irrefutably more striking, no pun intended, combining a starkly industrial design with the sheen of gold. Frosted gold First unveiled in 2016, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater remains the thinnest minute repeater on the market, with the case measuring just 6.85 mm high. The new gold iteration, however, is a hair thicker at 6.9 mm to ensure case rigidity as gold is softer than titanium. But the gold case retains the same all-matte, sandblasted case finish as the titanium model, creating a surface that is deliciously subdued. The dial is also made of rose gold, with the same perforated indices to better transit the sound from the movement to the case and crystal. Measuring 40 mm wide, the watch is depth rated to 30 m, helped by the use of a pusher at nine o’clock to activate the repeater, which is easier to seal against moisture than a traditional slide. The Genta connection Underneath it is the hand-wound BVL362 that is based on a 2.72mm high movement conceived by Gerald Genta in 1981. The movement was re-engineered by Bulgari, and bulked up slightly to improve structural integrity and reliability. However, at 3.12 mm high, the BVL362 movement is still ...
Time+Tide
It may surprise many reading this, but two out of the three Omega watches that really got the collective horological community talking in 2019 weren’t limited editions. In fact, the one limited edition watch that really struck a chord with enthusiasts, the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, was just a gorgeous looking timepiece, regardless of … ContinuedThe post Shaken and stirred: 3 Omegas that got everyone talking in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Drake recently took to Instagram to let us know about his latest watch acquisition - a fully custom Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726 that had been black DLC-coated and gem-set with dozens of emeralds. While Drake is well known for his love of the Genevan firm, this watch was special for a couple of … ContinuedThe post Drake shows us “Life is Good” with his custom Patek Philippe Nautilus designed by Louis Vuitton Artistic Director appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A cherished watch lost on a motorcycle trip finds its way back to one of the greatest drummers of all time.
Time+Tide
This weekend, I wore my Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1986 and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Danny’s Tudor Black Bay GMT Danny has lusted after Rolex’s GMT-Master II Ref.126710BLRO ever since it was first … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The hunt for a new watch is, for many watch enthusiasts, a huge part of the collecting experience. It isn’t enough to simply buy a watch, but a watch must be searched for long and hard, with its eventual discovery making the acquisition all the more exciting. This is the story of Joseph … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Lupin the Third, ever heard of it? We hadn’t either … that is, until Zenith made this, the A384 Revival Lupin The Third Edition. Turns out, Lupin The Third, or Lupin III as it’s otherwise known, is a Japanese manga cartoon created in 1967 by the doyen of the traditional Japanese art form, Monkey Punch. … ContinuedThe post Was this Zenith Manga cartoon homage the sleeper hit of 2019? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The last third of 2019 was a busy time for GaryG, In addition to professional activities, keeping up with other pastimes, and traveling with his wife, he had the wonderful opportunity to attend a bunch of watch-related events around the globe. Here he shares what he's dome and what he's learned along the way.
Time+Tide
Where to begin with Seiko in 2019? The Japanese watchmaker has been on a veritable roll for quite some time now, but for the last year of the decade, they really delivered. Whether it be the new Prospex LX Line Diver taking home the prestigious award for best Diver’s watch at GPHG 2019, a completely … ContinuedThe post These were 5 of the best new Seiko watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Hot off the heels of their latest release with the Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, we thought we’d take a look at another smash hit from Longines’ Heritage collection – the Longines Heritage 1945. Few watches unveiled in the last couple of years have nailed the vintage aesthetic quite like the 1945, and for … ContinuedThe post This Longines Heritage 1945 oozes old school charm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Breitling as a brand is famously known for its aviation timepieces, with the likes of the Navitimer and Aviator models being very popular. The brand however, has so much more to offer. With watches to suit sport professionals and adventurers, to the more elegant and urban watches such as the Premier collection, Breitling has a wide variety of timepieces to suit everyone. Breitling has a rich history in the diving sector as well thanks to their SuperOcean and SuperOcean Heritage collections. These two diving collections are different from each other as the Heritage has a more chronograph and sporty appearance, whereas the SuperOcean has a more clean and simple look. Two different styles of diving watches to suit two different audiences. What we have on our hands today is a piece from Breitling’s 2019 Baselworld SuperOcean collection release; the SuperOcean 42mm Automatic. When the Breitling SuperOcean was first released in 1957, it was released to make it clear that there was a new player in the diver’s watch market. Since its first release over 60 years ago, the Breitling SuperOcean collection has stayed true to the quality, pure Breitling style and exceptional performance. The 2019 update brings a new facelift with two dial colour choices (black and blue), while keeping the internal mechanics that the SuperOcean is known for the same. The 2019 update for the Breitling SuperOcean was a much needed fresh look for the collection. Since Goerges Kern took over, most ...
Time+Tide
It’s safe to say that 2019 was a good year for TAG Heuer, with the Swiss watchmaker celebrating 50 years of their iconically square Monaco wristwatch with four striking limited editions. It wasn’t just about the Monaco, however, as TAG also brought out some great new additions to their storied Carrera line-up as well as … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer’s triple threat of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Selecting the best watches of 2019 with an unlimited budget is one thing. But those of us who aren’t hip-hop stars or oil tycoons have to comply with the tiresome reality of financial constraints. Which leads us to the challenge of selecting a $20K Fantasy Watch Collection from 2019. Here’s my hit list that sneaks … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
2019 was an exciting year for Tudor, as the iconic Swiss watchmaker released several models that collectively surprised and even inspired the greater horological community. And while some of the novelties unveiled last year were contentious at the time, I think people’s attitudes have softened towards them and, more importantly, it’s just great to see … ContinuedThe post 3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania It’s the start of a new decade, and as we hit the Roaring ’20s, there’s no sign that anyone is spending any less time on Instagram - especially if they love watches. With that in mind, I thought I’d do my best to put all of the … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Luxury sports watches are a fad that numerous watchmakers are trying their hands at – with varying degrees of success. H. Moser & Cie. is the latest brand to try its hand at a sports watch. While the fact is not a surprise, since the company has been dropping hints about it for over a year, the product is unexpectedly well executed and different. Limited to 100 pieces but with future variants in the works, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is a “bull’s head” chronograph with the buttons at two and ten o’clock and a “racing” style dial. The Streamliner is characterised by an unusual cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet, creating a design that brings to mind watches of the 1970s and 1980s, but still manages to be novel in the crowded luxury sports watch segment. Importantly, Moser also got the functional aspects of the watch right: the case is water-resistant to 120m, and the chronograph pushers can be operated underwater to the same depth. The Streamliner on the wrist of Moser CEO Edouard Meylan Fond memories Designed by Marcus Eilinger, a freelance designer whose recent work includes watches for IWC, Montblanc and Huawei, the Streamliner brings to mind interesting, maybe even great, watches of the past that are now forgotten, so it looks fresh. Edouard Meylan (left) with designer Marcus Eilinger. Photo – H. Moser & Cie. While Streamliner’s case is reminiscent of chunky 1970s chronographs made by the likes of Omega, Heuer, and Longines, the integ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Continuing their commitment to raising awareness about various issues threatening the world’s great bodies of water, Oris has released a new, “high performance” dive watch inspired by, and in commemoration of, efforts to preserve this treasured natural wonder.
Time+Tide
eBay, the largest online auction website in the world and, rather notably, the first site in the world to support peer-to-peer transactions, is of course a complete leviathan. In 2019 alone, there was nigh on 200 million active users across the globe and more than 1.2 billion listings. So, as you can probably imagine, to … ContinuedThe post These were the 3 most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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