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Hands On: Patek Philippe World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe World Time Apr 29, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe introduced the World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001, the brand’s first regular-production world time with a date. Although the model officially debuted last June with a 300-piece, purple-dial limited edition for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Japan, the ref. 5330G-001 brings this complication into the mainstream with global distribution and a more versatile colour palette. Initial thoughts The ref. 5330G is quintessential Patek Philippe is several ways. It embodies a complication synonymous with the brand that is presented in a slim case. The overall aesthetic is modern but clearly vintage inspired. And the movement incorporates a complication that is cleverly executed and necessarily thin to fit the case. So conceptually, it is appealing. The ref. 5330G is also appealing in terms of its tangible qualities. It has good proportions and a refined, polished appearance that is typical of modern Patek Philippe watches. What do I not like? The carbon pattern dial is intrinsically attractive – it is done well and modern in feel – but feels a bit overused. Earlier world time models, on the other hand, had dial patterns that were unique to the reference. And the other is the Patek Philippe pricing. At over US$76,000, the ref. 5330G is steeply priced for a relatively straightforward pair of complications, even considering the ingenious construction of the date. But it is a Patek Philippe, and the unrivalled brand name alone accounts ...

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Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas Worn & Wound
Apr 28, 2024

Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas

Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. The post Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward through Apr 28, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 79 – Swiss Leftovers

On episode 79 of A Week in Watches, we start with a trip down memory lane, all the way back two weeks ago to Watches & Wonders 2024. Well, not exactly; rather than the fair itself, we look at the other shows and exhibitions, looking at several of the brands we got to check out. From there, we jump over to a new release by an old brand. Or, rather, the relaunch of the brand, Amida, and their most iconic watch, a jump hour with a digital display, the Digitrend. Lastly, we head over to the UK to celebrate a double anniversary with Christopher Ward through the launch of the Twelve X powered by the SH21 movement. Before diving into the week’s news, don’t forget that Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is starting on May 3rd at the Gateway Pavilion in Fort Mason and running until May 5th. It boasts over 85 brands and free admission for all, making it a perfect outing for family and friends to explore the world of watches; visit windupwatchfair.com for details. This episode is sponsored by the Windup Watch Shop. It features the exclusive Depancel x Worn & Wound Allure Valjoux 92 Chronograph collaboration, which showcases restored vintage chronograph movements visible through a display case back. The collaboration is limited to just 20 pieces and is available at windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 79 – Swiss Leftovers appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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One Man’s Ongoing Quest To Find His Long-Lost Rolex Submariner Fratello
Rolex Submariner Apr 27, 2024

One Man’s Ongoing Quest To Find His Long-Lost Rolex Submariner

For many of us, “that special watch” is something we may have bought to mark an occasion. Perhaps it was a gift. For Tom Place, his special Rolex Submariner is out there, somewhere, at the bottom of a lake in the United States. He is hell-bent on recovering it one day. Some people like wearing […] Visit One Man’s Ongoing Quest To Find His Long-Lost Rolex Submariner to read the full article.

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Our Contributors’ Favorite Watches & Wonders Releases Worn & Wound
Cartier pebble-like Apr 26, 2024

Our Contributors’ Favorite Watches & Wonders Releases

Yesterday, Zach Weiss, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan told you about their favorite watches from Watches & Wonders week. Today, our contributors have their say. Their choices reflect the incredible diversity of watches at the show (even in what most consider a somewhat slow year) and show that there are lots of great watches that we’ll all continue to discover from the event, sometimes from unexpected sources. Tanner Tran  By many accounts, the releases of Watches & Wonders 2024 were a relatively muted affair. We saw a lot of massaged designs and logical extensions of existing product lines. But that’s not to say there weren’t any new releases. The Cut, a new sports watch from Hermès, was one such example and a personal favorite of mine. I have a sneaking suspicion this watch will appeal to anyone looking for an uncommon 36mm integrated bracelet sports watch – that is to say, a lot of people – even though ‘The Cut’ is a little more than implicitly marketed as a ladies’ piece. With its rounded case (almost Cartier pebble-like) and variants featuring diamond-studded bezels, ‘The Cut’ is a softer alternative to its sibling, the H08. I really dig the design and find that it neither feels overly done nor half-baked. The applied numerals carry a distinct Hermès typography, and the orange accents along both the inner dial and second hand add a nice touch of contrast. The execution of the quick-change bracelet (and strap) is also simple and elegant. On that n...

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Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Apr 26, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches

Tudor returned to the U.S. market after a lengthy absence in 2013 and the Rolex-owned brand had its first big hit in this modern era with the launch of the Black Bay (originally the Heritage Black Bay), a stylish, sporty divers’ watch, with a plethora of historical details drawn from Tudor dive watches of yore. In 2018, in response to growing consumer demand both for more modest case sizes and for greater period authenticity in vintage-style timepieces, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which proved to hit the sweet spot for many contemporary enthusiasts. Named for the year 1958, in which Tudor released the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924, the most clear forerunner to the Black Bay, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight models match that watch’s 39mm case diameter, which is downsized from the 41mm-to-43mm sizes still common to the core Black Bay series. Since its launch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has become one of the most popular extensions of the expanding Black Bay collection, and has been the stage for Tudor’s recent (and historically rare) forays into the realm of precious metals. Descended From a Prince: Black Bay DNA The aesthetic origin of the Black Bay starts with the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous purpose-built dive watch, also called the Submariner. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the same “Mercedes” handset found on many Rolex models and was water-resistan...

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Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement Fratello
Farer style sunglasses Apr 26, 2024

Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement

Imagine driving your mint-green Ford Mustang convertible from the ’60s along the Californian coast during the golden hour. You’re wearing your favorite pair of Wayfarer-style sunglasses, and the wind is gently blowing through your hair. On your wrist is the brand-new mint-green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure with a vintage Valjoux 92 movement inside. […] Visit Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement to read the full article.

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Introducing The Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Collaboration Worn & Wound
Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Collaboration Apr 26, 2024

Introducing The Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Collaboration

To say that Louis Erard has been on a roll would be a massive understatement. Watches like the Petite Seconde Guilloche and the Main II showcase a level of build quality, attention to detail, and finishing that is far above their price points. What has made all this possible is Louis Erard’s willingness to work with artists, craftsmen, and independent watchmakers to usher in new ideas and techniques. This openness to and appreciation for individual style and traditional methods has been the brand’s calling card as of late. In this same spirit, Louis Erard proudly introduces Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner, a new duo of watches created in collaboration with esteemed watchmaker and jeweler Cédric Johner. We’re excited to offer them right here in the Windup Watch Shop and discover what makes these two new watches some of the best and most personalized Louis Erard has ever created. To say that Louis Erard has been on a roll would be a massive understatement. Watches like the Petite Seconde Guilloche and the Main II showcase a level of build quality, attention to detail, and finishing that is far above their price points. What has made all this possible is Louis Erard’s willingness to work with artists, craftsmen, and independent watchmakers to usher in new ideas and techniques. This openness to and appreciation for individual style and traditional methods has been the brand’s calling card as of late. In this same spirit, Louis Erard proudly introduces Le...

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Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Sports Watches - Featuring The GMT-Master, Submariner, And More… Fratello
Rolex Sports Watches - Featuring Apr 26, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Sports Watches - Featuring The GMT-Master, Submariner, And More…

Another Friday, another Top 5! After a little break last week, we are back with our articles highlighting outstanding pre-owned watches. One of the most talked-about watches during Watches and Wonders inspired this week’s list. Is the new full-gold Rolex Deepsea truly an unnecessary statement of opulence? Many people questioned whether the existence of a […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Sports Watches - Featuring The GMT-Master, Submariner, And More… to read the full article.

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First Look – The New Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze Apr 26, 2024

First Look – The New Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze

The Calpyso line was Maurice Lacroix‘s best-selling luxury sports watch during the 1990s and was powered by a mix of mechanical and quartz movements. Gauging the current market appetite for luxury sports watches for consumers without five-figure budgets, the Calypso underwent a fundamental overhaul and was transformed into the Aikon. Launched in 2016 with quartz […]

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Explained: Bovet Solves Daylight Savings Time in the Wristwatch SJX Watches
Bovet Apr 26, 2024

Explained: Bovet Solves Daylight Savings Time in the Wristwatch

The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch. Despite the seemingly simple nature of the problem, the solution is extraordinarily complicated, requiring two dozen rollers and many more gears and springs. With its roller-based world time mechanism, the Récital 28 can easily switch between showing summer or winter in both Europe and America, making the first-ever wristwatch able to do that. Initial thoughts Bovet’s complicated watches are usually enormous, intricately mechanical, and sometimes extravagantly decorated, sometimes sporting pearls, diamonds, and enamel work. The Récital 28 is less decorative but intensely mechanical. With clever engineering, the calibre inside addresses one of the longstanding challenges of a travel-time watch, accounting for daylight saving time (DST). The cleverness of the Récital 28 lies in its rollers, which each have four positions. This allows time zones to be easily backwards or forwards in accordance with DST. Even though the solution is straightforward in principle, executing it is immensely complex. In order to accommodate its many functions, the R28-70-00X movement incorporates multiple subassemblies that make it a unique proposition. As a result, the movement in the Récital 28 is unusually complicated, especially for what is essentially a world time watch. Its part-count of 744 puts it in grand comp...

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Dive Watches For Shallow People: When The GADA Watch Becomes, Well, A Bit Gaudy Fratello
Apr 26, 2024

Dive Watches For Shallow People: When The GADA Watch Becomes, Well, A Bit Gaudy

Let me make something crystal clear: I’m not a watch fundamentalist. I don’t live by the strict rule that you can only wear an X-type watch when you are doing an X-type of activity. If I did, I probably couldn’t wear any of the watches in my modest collection. Since I’m not flying a spacecraft, […] Visit Dive Watches For Shallow People: When The GADA Watch Becomes, Well, A Bit Gaudy to read the full article.

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Our Favorite Releases from Watches & Wonders Week Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Apr 25, 2024

Our Favorite Releases from Watches & Wonders Week

With Watches & Wonders in the books and a few weeks of space from the deluge of new releases, it’s time to look back on the show and figure out what really spoke to us. It was, by most accounts, a somewhat slow year for new releases, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t a lot of great watches to choose from for a retrospective article like this. And for this exercise, we’re not limiting ourselves to watches exhibited at Watches & Wonders proper, either. There were literally hundreds of brands with new watches to show throughout the city of Geneva during Watches & Wonders week. We didn’t see them all, but we caught as many as we could, and these are the watches that stand out as favorites.  Stay tuned tomorrow for favorites from our roster of contributors! Zach Weiss  I usually have difficulty picking favorites after events like Watches & Wonders. One sees so much, so quickly, that making judgments is difficult, and what’s left in one’s mind after is sort of an image cloud of memories. No single thing overtakes any other. But this year was different. Since the show, I’ve found myself thinking about two watches, or rather, one watch and one case/movement combo. The watch is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon in platinum. Yes, I’ve gone full fancy pants and chosen a nearly six-figure watch, but hear me out… it was gorgeous. Admittedly, the Duometre line is one that I’ve had a bit of a fascination with over the last year or so, as the original...

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Louis Erard Collaborates with Jeweler and Watchmaker Cédric Johner for their Latest Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Collaborates Apr 25, 2024

Louis Erard Collaborates with Jeweler and Watchmaker Cédric Johner for their Latest Limited Edition

Louis Erard continues with their aggressive limited edition release strategy this week with a new collaboration that sees the brand partnering with celebrated watchmaker and jeweler Cédric Johner. Johner began his career as a jeweler at the age of 15 in 1982, and turned to watchmaking later in life. He continues to work out of his Geneva workshop to this day, with a focus on traditional craft, including good old fashioned handwork with traditional tools. He practices what he calls “intuitive watchmaking,” which for him means creating a timepiece without a set plan. This obviously flies in the face of how most modern watches are created, but allows Johner a level of freedom and creativity in his design that would be hard to match otherwise. His work, which consists largely of one-offs and unique pieces, is often characterized by playing with expectations related to geometry and shape, which comes through clearly in this pair of limited edition regulators for Louis Erard.  The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner limited editions consist of two watches in Louis Erard’s less frequently used 39mm Excellence case. The visual impression of these watches is immediately very different from any other Louis Erard collaboration thanks to the hexagonal bezel, which is a Johner hallmark. The dial arrangement, though, will be familiar to anyone who has been tracking these regulators over the years, with running seconds at 6:00, hours at 12:00, and a centrally mounted minu...

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Video – The Craftsmanship behind the Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour Apr 25, 2024

Video – The Craftsmanship behind the Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour

Recently, we’ve discovered the new haute horlogerie creations of Louis Vuitton, which included a trio of artistic models inspired by the universe of Gaston-Louis Vuitton, as well as a striking take on horology by architect Frank Gehry. There was a third watch introduced, one that really made an impression on us with its combination of […]

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#TBT Visual Glory With The Must De Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref. 1616 Fratello
Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref Apr 25, 2024

#TBT Visual Glory With The Must De Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref. 1616

Next year will mark 30 years since Cartier released the Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco. Maybe I should feel embarrassed that I don’t recall ever seeing it before. But the moment I spotted it last week, I instantly fell in love. If it weren’t quartz and in the ballpark of €10,000, it would be […] Visit #TBT Visual Glory With The Must De Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref. 1616 to read the full article.

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First Look – The New and Original Louis Erard Régulateur x Cédric Johner Monochrome
Louis Erard Régulateur x Cédric Johner Apr 25, 2024

First Look – The New and Original Louis Erard Régulateur x Cédric Johner

Louis Erard has developed a close working relationship with contemporary artists, watchmakers, artisans, and designers to position itself as one of the most exciting and original brands on the watchmaking scene. To bring the delights of high-end watchmaking to a broader audience, Louis Erard sticks to its policy of accessible prices. What other brand can […]

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Hands-On: MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 in Blue CarbonMacrolon SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux calibre has been MB&F;’s Apr 25, 2024

Hands-On: MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 in Blue CarbonMacrolon

MB&F; has released the third instalment of its automobile-inspired wristwatch, the HM8 Mark 2. Now in blue CarbonMacrolon, the latest HM8 Mark 2 follows on the green and white iterations introduced last year. Inspired by 1970s sports cars like the Lamborghini Miura, the new Mark 2 retains the model’s signature speedometer-like display for the time and “double bubble” sapphire crystal. Although the CarbonMacrolon panels of the case are also found on earlier versions, the material has been tweaked to incorporate ingredients also found in automotive paint, giving the case a metallic, sparkly blue finish resembling a car’s paintwork. Initial thoughts Though only a cosmetic update to the model, the latest HM8 Mark 2 is the most striking to date. Though the change of colour might seem like a trivial matter, the new paintwork is a perfect complement to the styling and concept of the watch – the metallic finish really does evoke the paintwork of a high-end automobile. Interestingly, the new Mark 2 feels sleeker than the earlier versions thanks to the paintwork, even though the watch is identical in dimensions and form. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard version, and the same movement is visible in the “engine bay” through the sloping sapphire crystal. The Girard-Perregaux calibre has been MB&F;’s base movement of choice almost since its founding two decades ago, so something more interesting would be a useful upgrade, particularly since the movement i...

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