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In-Depth: Inspiration and Creation of the Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series Earlier May 15, 2020

In-Depth: Inspiration and Creation of the Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series

Earlier this year, I paid a visit to Seiko’s headquarters in Ginza, Tokyo. I was there for two reasons. One was to present my Ideal Watch Size Survey to their design, product and development teams. The other was to find out more about a particular Grand Seiko I had recently purchased, the SBGZ001. Launched in 2019 to celebrate the Spring Drive’s 20th Anniversary, the SBGZ001 is an extraordinarily finished version of the Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series from the Elegance collection. What started as a few questions from a collector ended up being a dive into how a significant new line of watches at Grand Seiko was born. In the interest of full disclosure: The Armoury, which I own, has been a retailer of Grand Seiko in Hong Kong for about six years now. I have been collecting Grand Seiko for about nine years. Neither the SBGZ001 nor the SBGY003 detailed in this article are available for sale at the store. But they are special so I wanted to delve further into their creation. The Credor Eichi I, 2013 First some background. Back in 2013, I bought a Credor Eichi I, a well-known watch in certain circles for its exceptional finishing. It was made in the Micro Artist Studio (MAS), a division within the Seiko-Epson Shiojiri plant where all the cutting-edge high horology – namely Spring Drive movements – is designed and made. That includes things like the Credor Minute Repeater, the Grand Seiko 8 Day Power Reserve and the Credor Eichi II. I toured the facility in 2014 and visite...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hemsworth’s wrist in Extraction proves that the world’s biggest bad-asses wear… Time+Tide
May 14, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hemsworth’s wrist in Extraction proves that the world’s biggest bad-asses wear…

As the world begins to re-emerge from lockdown, so does our awareness of the days. Where in past weeks, Friday has come and gone in a haze of homeschooling and housebound weekends that blur into weekdays, suddenly there’s an ever-so-slight sense of TGIF. And that’s a pretty sweet feeling for us. So, as we do … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hemsworth’s wrist in Extraction proves that the world’s biggest bad-asses wear… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Toric Tourbillon Red Gold Slate SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces May 14, 2020

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Toric Tourbillon Red Gold Slate

The very first case designed by Michel Parmigiani when he founded his eponymous brand, the elegant Toric is now primarily used for haute horlogerie watches. The latest to join the line up is the Toric Tourbillon Red Gold Slate, an extra-thin wristwatch with a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Though Parmigiani has tried its hand at contemporary case designs, its true strength is still classical style that references Breguet and other past century greats that Mr Parmigiani is familiar with thanks to his background in watch restoration. So it is with the Toric Tourbillon. Despite being relatively simple in style, the watch is immediately recognisable as a Parmigiani. It has a strongly balanced aesthetic between the guilloché dial, knurled bezel and flying tourbillon. But the prominent “Tourbillon 60 Secondes” label on the dial detracts from the clean style of the dial. Also, the 42.8mm case, though slim, might be a point of contention as it is on the large side for a slightly formal watch. Styling aside, Parmigiani quality is impeccable, for both the internal and external components. In that respect, there’s little to criticise. Toric tradition The very first watch designed by Mr Parmigiani when he launched his brand in 1996 was the Toric Memory Time, a slim, dual time zone watch. Though slightly tweaked, the current Toric case sticks closely to the design of the original, particularly with the prominent knurled bezel that is decorated by a hand-operated machine...

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From Chris Hemsworth in Extraction to American Sniper, why G-Shocks are the ultimate bad-ass watches Time+Tide
May 14, 2020

From Chris Hemsworth in Extraction to American Sniper, why G-Shocks are the ultimate bad-ass watches

“The least believable part of Extraction is that at no point do any of the 183 people that Chris Hemsworth kills mention how ridiculously good looking he is…” That’s what Netflix said in a recent tweet about their new balls-to-the-wall action extravaganza that’s set to become their biggest movie ever (90 million households watched the … ContinuedThe post From Chris Hemsworth in Extraction to American Sniper, why G-Shocks are the ultimate bad-ass watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Time+Tide
Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze As far May 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze

As far as micro brands go, Baltic is one of the most popular. We got our own taste of the hype around this brand during this year’s Time+Tide “Watch & Act” Auction, when the founder Etienne donated a prototype Aquascaphe to the cause. We knew it had been a successfully released debut dive watch from … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The New Blacklist Part 2: best of the new all-black watches from $315… Time+Tide
Zenith s latest release May 12, 2020

The New Blacklist Part 2: best of the new all-black watches from $315…

To recap: Zenith’s latest release, the uber stealthy Chronomaster Revival ‘Shadow’, has had us thinking about all the other great all-black timepieces that have been released in recent memory. The blacklist is an ever updating thing. So, we ran through some of our favourite models from the last little while. And after going through the … ContinuedThe post The New Blacklist Part 2: best of the new all-black watches from $315… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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F.P. Journe Introduces the Quantième Perpétuel with Gold Numerals SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces May 12, 2020

F.P. Journe Introduces the Quantième Perpétuel with Gold Numerals

Introduced in 2013, the original Quantième Perpétuel was a concise perpetual calendar with useful features, as well as a peculiar, egg-shaped steel ring around the centre of the dial. Now the design has been refined – but all functionality retained – to create the new F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel with gold numerals. And though this was officially announced only recently, the watch has already been available at boutiques for several months. Initial thoughts Compared to the earlier F.P. Journe calendar watches, the Quantième Perpétuel was a big improvement with its highly legible display and improved user friendliness. But the first generation dial was odd because of the steel ring around the centre. That’s been changed with the new model, and the improvement is substantial. The new dial appeals because it doesn’t try too hard to be different. Instead, it differentiates itself in more subtle ways. And the boutique-only blue-dial version is unusual, which is a plus if you’re looking for something different. F.P. Journe has rarely used matte, dark blue dials on standard-production watches; historically only limited editions and custom watches had such dials. Silver and gold Borrowing the clous de Paris engine-turned centre from the Chronometre Souverain, the dial is made of solid silver, while the applied numerals and calendar window frames are solid gold. The addition of gold frames for the calendar do make the positions of the windows more obvious, whic...

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IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 300T, the dive watch icon that takes you 1200m deep for less than $2000USD Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300T May 12, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 300T, the dive watch icon that takes you 1200m deep for less than $2000USD

A helium release valve will never stop confusing people. What does it do? How does it work? Do I need one when snorkelling, or free-diving on holiday? The answer to that last question is a firm no, and, to prove it, DOXA have reinvented their own 1969 SUB 300T - the first consumer-grade dive watch … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 300T, the dive watch icon that takes you 1200m deep for less than $2000USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The New Blacklist, Part 1: The best new all-black watches, from around $250 to over $200,000 Time+Tide
Reservoir Dogs will know what May 11, 2020

The New Blacklist, Part 1: The best new all-black watches, from around $250 to over $200,000

Black, noir, sable, stygian … whatever name you wish to call it, there can be no debate – black itself is always cooler than whatever is “the new black”. Anyone who’s seen Tarantino’s 1992 cult classic Reservoir Dogs will know what I mean. And anything that is painted black instantly becomes far, far cooler. Henry … ContinuedThe post The New Blacklist, Part 1: The best new all-black watches, from around $250 to over $200,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Racing Green is a gleaming green engine for the wrist Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Racing Green May 11, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Racing Green is a gleaming green engine for the wrist

Unless you’re colour-blind, it’s patently obvious that green watches are the thing right now in watch world. It’s not just our industry that’s going through a green renaissance either – the highly versatile colour has also championed the revolution of custom, factory-painted sportscars. Don’t believe me? Check out this Insta page. See what we mean? The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Racing Green is a gleaming green engine for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Gyre Introduces the SeaCleaner SJX Watches
Seiko movement that’ll do what May 11, 2020

Gyre Introduces the SeaCleaner

Gyre Watch is a watch brand that offers an affordable, fun dive watch that supports a good cause. Founded by Dutch watch journalist Bernard Werk, the brand is making its debut with the Gyre SeaCleaner. An affordable, no-nonsense sports watch with a solar-powered movement, the SeaCleaner has a case and strap made from recycled ocean waste – with part of the proceeds from its sale going to an ocean cleanup charity. Initial thoughts Bold in its contrasting-colour scheme, the SeaCleaner has brightly-coloured accents in green, blue or black, and a large, 42 mm cushion case that’s reminiscent of 1970s dive watches, giving it a retro vibe. Inside is a robust Seiko movement that’ll do what it’s supposed to do. In short, the SeaCleaner is tried-and-tested look that works well for a sports watch and it costs only about US$200. Environmentally supportive Gyre will donate 5% of sales to The Ocean Cleanup – a Dutch NGO that is working to remove plastic waste from the oceans. And with both the straps and cases made of recycled material, the watches themselves will contribute to the cleanup. The black plastic cases are made from recycled fishing nets, which are mostly made of plastic. Collected by fishermen around the Indian Ocean – Gyre pays the fishermen for the nets – the discarded nets are cleaned and turned into plastic pellets that are then moulded into the cases. Unlike many all-black watch cases that are done that way for aesthetic effect, the composite derive...

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