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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces May 25, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”

Two years ago, Audemars Piguet (AP) introduced the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther”, a watch that caused a stir, to put it mildly. While the comics-and-complications combination was unorthodox, the watch was a commercial success. Now AP is following up – as promised – with its second Marvel collaboration, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”. Like its predecessor, it has a miniature sculpture of the superhero as the dial and it is once again again a Royal Oak Concept, but now powered by a new calibre.  And the Royal Oak Spider-Man watch also continues the charitable tradition started by its predecessor. A unique version of the new watch, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Black Suit Spider-Man” that depicts a black-and-silver superhero, will be sold at auction to benefit First Book and Ashoka, a pair of charities that bring education to disadvantaged youth. Initial thoughts In some ways, the Royal Oak Black Panther did not look serious enough for such an expensive watch; it was perhaps too purple. While its aesthetics were subjective, it was certainly well executed. The miniature sculpture was done well in both detail, colour, and form. The same holds true for the Royal Oak Spider-Man, but it is an altogether more attractive watch. For one, it is less purple and more monochromatic, with much of the watch being black and white, leaving only the superhero figure to convey colour. And the figure itself is better positioned in that it allows more of t...

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Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Closes Out May 25, 2023

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition

The latest from Kurono Tokyo is a new version of their Calendrier Type I, a reference that was a finalist in the 2022 GPHG awards. A triple calendar is an old school complication, so it makes sense for a brand like Kurono to experiment on this platform, with their design language so deeply rooted in Art Deco principles and mid 20th century ideas around size and style. The new Calendrier is a Kurono anniversary model, thus it will be sold as a “time limited” edition, meaning prospective owners will have specific windows during which they can make a purchase, and Kurono will fill every order placed in these windows. Kurono has also announced that this will be the final version of the Calendrier Type I, so if this is a reference you’ve been hunting, we’re approaching your last chance to snag one directly from the brand.  Kurono has dubbed this model the Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki,” a name derived from the maroon color of the dial. Azuki means “red bean” in Japanese, and in Japan is a color commonly associated with cars. Maroon was once a common standard vehicle color, so this watch is subtly auto inspired and a throwback in more ways than one.  According to the brand, achieving this particular tone of maroon was a significant challenge. To get the color right, Kurono used phosphor-bronze rather than the typical brass for the dial material, which allows them to get the proper shade of red during the finishing process. Kurono notes that phosphor-bronze is m...

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De Bethune Introduces the DB28xs Starry Seas SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces May 25, 2023

De Bethune Introduces the DB28xs Starry Seas

The latest version of De Bethune’s signature watch shrinks the case and ups the level of dial decoration. The DB28xs Starry Seas has a compact case of just 38.7 mm and an eye-catching dial finished a wave pattern and inlaid white gold stars in typical De Bethune style. Initial thoughts Originally a large watch with a case of 43 mm, the DB28 nonetheless became the brand’s trademark watch thanks to its distinctive styling and hinged lugs. So a more wearable version of the DB28 will certainly have is audience. In fact, the case of 38.7 mm is more than manageable, it is almost small by the standards of highly contemporary independent watchmaking.  With the reduced case, however, the DB28xs might have lost some of the presence that made the original DB28 interesting, although that will have to be judged in the metal. Besides the case, the other novel feature of the watch is the wave pattern on the dial that’s complemented by inlaid gold stars, which is meant to evoke the night sky reflected on water. The wave pattern is new for De Bethune, adding some originality to this variant of the DB28. While the dial is beautiful – De Bethune’s blued titanium dials usually are – and the case remains appealing even on a smaller scale, I would have hoped that the brand did something more inventive, rather than create variants of existing designs and movements.    Apart from the dial and case, the DB28xs is largely identical to its larger siblings, including utilising the same...

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5 sleeper picks from the upcoming Sotheby’s Fine Watches auction starting next week Time+Tide
Rolex Daytonas May 25, 2023

5 sleeper picks from the upcoming Sotheby’s Fine Watches auction starting next week

Watch auctions are typically associated with record-breaking prices and incredible amounts of money spent on coveted collectables. During my visit to Sotheby’s Upper East Side headquarters, I saw plenty of lots primed to go for six, seven, dare I say eight figures – such as the two Paul Newman-owned Rolex Daytonas that the auction house … ContinuedThe post 5 sleeper picks from the upcoming Sotheby’s Fine Watches auction starting next week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Graf von Faber-Castell Pen of the Year 2022 . . . Plus Five More from Previous Years – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 25, 2023

Graf von Faber-Castell Pen of the Year 2022 . . . Plus Five More from Previous Years – Reprise

Faber-Castell introduced its first Pen of the Year in 2003 and has annually introduced a limited edition pen with a very specific theme ever since. Each tells the tale of a person, a place, or an era that helped “shape the development of humanity,” according to the company. The Pen of the Year 2022 is inspired by the influential Aztec civilization.

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The Casio G-Shock G-Squad is the perfect remake of a 40-year-old legend Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock G-Squad May 24, 2023

The Casio G-Shock G-Squad is the perfect remake of a 40-year-old legend

If you’re into cars, you’ll be familiar with the old adage that every petrolhead needs to own an Alfa Romeo at some point in their life. The same can be said for watch enthusiasts and G-Shocks – though for vastly different reasons. Where Alfas are known to be the automobile equivalent of passionate flings – … ContinuedThe post The Casio G-Shock G-Squad is the perfect remake of a 40-year-old legend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bulgari is Ready for Summer with Beach Ready “Capri” Updates to their Aluminum Collection Worn & Wound
Bulgari May 24, 2023

Bulgari is Ready for Summer with Beach Ready “Capri” Updates to their Aluminum Collection

At the time of this writing, we are less than a week out from Memorial Day weekend, the unofficial start of summer. So you’ll forgive us if we’ve got summer watches on the brain. Looking ahead to the warmer months, vacations, travel, and relaxing purely for the sake of it is a good opportunity to consider watches that fit the bill. There’s something about the ultra formal that doesn’t exactly have us thinking about the beach, and cocktails with little umbrellas in them. Luckily for all of us, watch brands understand this, and we’ve seen an influx of cheerful and seasonally appropriate watches hit the landscape just in the last few weeks. One release from the Bulgari, a multi-watch update to their Aluminum collection, feels particularly ready for a tropical disposition.  The Aluminum is a throwback to a Bulgari style that was at its peak in the 90s. Longtime podcast listeners will remember that I have a particular fascination with the Diagono line that these watches are clearly meant to evoke. Being made from aluminum, they are ultra lightweight, and have unique integrated rubber bracelets that are not really exactly like anything else out there. But the feature that truly divides people with these watches is the bezel, made from rubber that matches that bracelet and stamped twice with the Bulgari wordmark, just in case you forget what brand you’re wearing, or have an inclination to see what the brand name looks like upside down. It’s a strange design choice,...

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Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre “Reverso Stories” in Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Stories” May 24, 2023

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre “Reverso Stories” in Singapore

Tracing the evolution of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s trademark watch, Reverso Stories will soon open at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore. Admission is free but registration is required to attend. The exhibition starts with the Reverso’s origins in 1931 as a sports watch and culminates with the highly complicated models of the present day. A curated selection of vintage and contemporary pieces will be on show to illustrate the versatility and timeless nature of the iconic design.  Among the highlights are the latest watches just unveiled at Watches & Wonders in March, including the Reverso Tribute Chronograph. But the highlight is the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, a grand complication boasting four faces and a movement with over 800 components. The exhibition will also feature Origin, a multimedia artwork by Korean artist Yiyun Kang, who serves as one of the brand’s artistic collaborators. Relying on projection mapping, her installation introduces another dimension to the exhibition. And of course the exhibition venue includes the 1931 Café where drinks are served in an Art Deco setting. Yiyun Kang The Art Deco-inspired 1931 Café Reverso Stories takes place from June 1-8, 2023 at the Marina Sands Bay Plaza. It is open to the public daily from 11:00 am-8:00 pm. Admission is free, but registration is required to attend.  Marina Bay Sands B2M-240 2 Bayfront Ave Singapore 018972 To register, visit jaegerlecoultre.com.  

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Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display Worn & Wound
May 23, 2023

Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display

Here at Worn & Wound, we’re all pretty big fans of watches that approach time telling in an unusual way. In our collections you’ll find regulators, watches with offset dials and movements exposed from the front, watches with no numerals or indices at all, and you might even catch a d.m.h jump hour if you spend enough time on our Instagram feeds. The watch we’re looking at today, the LEO by Wilbur Watch Co., actually feels like an evolution of the d.m.h format – it’s a jumping hour mechanism that’s highly complex, but yields a surprisingly intuitive method for reading the time. And it comes in a big, bold package, partially inspired by a fascination with stories of extraterrestrials coming out of Roswell, NM and Area 51. So, you know, just a normal, everyday kind of watch.  At the heart of the LEO is what the brand refers to as the Engine One movement, an automatic, Swiss made caliber, designed by Wilbur Watch Co. Time is told via two discs on either side of the dial, one transparent sapphire, the other aluminum. The discs are each marked with symbols that look like hieroglyphics, which is part of the alien inspiration for the piece. Those symbols are designed to fit together to form numerals, though, as the discs rotate. The hour is read at the dead center of the dial, outlined with a bright blue ring, where the two rings meet. The minutes are read via a rotating ring at the outside of the dial (an arrow right below the hour indicator points to the current min...

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Longines remind us why they boast one of the watch world’s most enviable histories Time+Tide
Longines remind us why they May 23, 2023

Longines remind us why they boast one of the watch world’s most enviable histories

The person in charge of Longines’ heritage reissues must have one of the watch world’s cushiest jobs. I always imagine them lazing around for most of the year – playing Wordle and drinking endless cups of coffee. Then, as their annual deadline looms, I picture them hastily thumbing through a dusty catalogue and selecting a … ContinuedThe post Longines remind us why they boast one of the watch world’s most enviable histories appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned May 23, 2023

Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

As I was examining the Patek Philippe ref. 96QL once owned by the last Emperor of China, I wondered about the state of the movement. The watch is clearly old – it was sold in almost a century ago – and was not running. Phillips wasn’t able to show me the movement on the spot, understandably considering the value of the watch, although they promised they would get me some information shortly. Their response was more than I expected. Taking the form of a forensic report detailing the materials and details of the watch – right down to a X-ray spectrographic analysis of the dial – the information reveals much about the watch. To start with, the spectrograph of the reverse of the dial reveals it is 92.4% silver, 6.94% copper, with the rest comprised of silver and gold. This finally answer the long-ago question posed by Puyi when he tasked his manservant “Big Li” to scrape off the dial’s coating in order to see if it is platinum like the case. It is but a brass dial plated in silver. The analysis of the dial’s back Inside the platinum case is an 11”’ movement that likely began as an ebauche from LeCoultre that was then completed by Victorin Piguet, which produced the simple calendar module on the top. The movement was then likely sent to Patek Philippe, which applied the finishing touches and cased it. The back of the movement is evidently classical, with the flowing bridges that were then the norm in movement design. It is also finished as high-end movemen...

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Hands-On: The Peculiar Timeless HMS Worn & Wound
May 22, 2023

Hands-On: The Peculiar Timeless HMS

One of the things I love seeing in young watch brands is a strong, original point of view. There is no shortage of great, simple tool and sport watches available from brands new and old, making the space quite difficult to stake a new claim within. Getting off that well trodden path offers the opportunity to explore and express new ideas and flesh out off-genre watches in a manner that grants a new brand some breathing room. This is exactly what the brand Timeless has done with their latest watch, the HMS. This is a watch that defies simple categorization, yet feels genuinely approachable. Timeless has taken a big swing with the HMS, and while it doesn’t connect on every level, there’s plenty to enjoy in the point of view being expressed.  The concept of the HMS was revealed in late 2020, and would go on to take shape over the following year, catching our attention along the way. The HMS is an immediately striking watch that eschews typical genre codes we generally expect to see, and while it struggles to balance the somewhat disparate elements, there’s some genuine charm to the underlying concept that feels rather refreshing. In the short time since its release, the HMS has already taken evolutionary steps, and what we have here is the HMS ref. 003. The HMS is a bit of an eyeful at a glance, with no clear focal point emerging between the ornate detailed structures that comprise the lugs, the case, and the dial, with each of those areas offering plenty of details to...

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The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back Time+Tide
May 22, 2023

The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back

J.N. Shapiro introduces the first handmade mechanical watch “Made in America” since 1969 The Resurgence is a love letter to handmade watchmaking, offering a layered guilloché dial, engine-turned mid-case, and damaskeening on the bridges Options are plentiful, making each Resurgence unique to its owner Whenever we talk about the ultra-high end of horology, the discussion … ContinuedThe post The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: Audemars Piguet Names Ilaria Resta CEO SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Names Ilaria Resta CEO May 22, 2023

Business News: Audemars Piguet Names Ilaria Resta CEO

Ending months of speculation, Audemars Piguet (AP) has finally filled the role of chief executive officer after outgoing boss Francois-Henry Bennahmias revealed his intention to depart last year. The Le Brassus watchmaker famous for the Royal Oak just announced that the top job will go to Ilaria Resta, formerly the president at a privately-held fragrances giant headquartered in Geneva. According to the announcement, Ms Resta joins AP in August this year and officially assumes the chief executive role on January 1, 2024. Mr Bennahmias will remain to assist with the transition until the end of 2023. A thirty-year veteran of the brand, the flamboyant Mr Bennahmias quadrupled AP’s annual revenue during his tenure, with its sales last year hitting the CHF2 billion mark. His successor’s résumé, however, suggests the board might be looking for someone who understands branding on a global and mass-market scale. With a long and accomplished career in fast-moving consumer goods, Ms Resta’s background is unusual for the leader of a major luxury watch brand. She was most recently President of Global Perfumery & Beauty President at Firmenich, a Swiss firm that is one of the world’s largest fragrances companies and, like AP, family controlled. For over two decades until 2020, Ms Resta held a range of roles at Procter & Gamble, covering sectors ranging from laundry to hair care. “Her proven record of delivering results through a clear strategic thinking based on deep consumer...

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J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969 Worn & Wound
Hamilton watches rolled off May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969

It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop.  The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in t...

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J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence SJX Watches
May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence

Having made a name for himself as a guillocheur, Joshua Shapiro has taken things a step further with the launch of the Resurgence, the most thoroughly American-made wristwatch since 1969. The Resurgence offers several features that are unique within the increasingly crowded field of high-end independent watchmaking. It is a customisable product that offers an almost unlimited number of dial, case, and movement combinations; it’s possible that no two watches will be alike. Almost every aspect of the watch, from the elaborate guilloche dial, engine-turned case, and customisable in-house movement, is surprisingly interesting and original. Initial Thoughts I first met Joshua in 2019 after the launch of the Infinity Series, and even then he was keen to discuss his vision for creating an in-house American-made movement that would live up to the quality of his guilloche work. But I must admit the Resurgence has exceeded my expectations, especially in terms of finishing. As a guilloche specialist, Joshua does not disappoint with the multi-part guilloche dial. Its construction reminds me of the dial found in the Roger W. Smith GREAT Britain, a one-off watch made in 2015 for the British government’s tourism campaign of the same name. But while the construction is similar, the Resurgence dial possesses its own aesthetic that steps out from the shadow of Swiss or British-style guilloche. At US$85,000 in gold and US$70,000 in steel, the Resurgence is priced at the upper end of the ...

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MICRO MONDAYS: Marin Instruments create a skin diver for the 21st century Time+Tide
Blancpain skin divers offered May 22, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: Marin Instruments create a skin diver for the 21st century

For those who were into scuba diving in the 1960s/70s and did not care for the professional-grade dive watches from Rolex and Blancpain, skin divers offered a more wearable and equally cool horological experience. Skin divers got their name from the fact that they were meant to be worn directly on the skin and not … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Marin Instruments create a skin diver for the 21st century appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces May 22, 2023

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having covered the extraordinary Patek Philippe timepieces and the single-owner “Ultimate Collection” in Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong, we now shift gears and look at the sales’s line-up of independent watchmaking. The independents in the sale are of course led by big names like Richard Mille and F.P. Journe – amongst the latter’s offerings in the sale is the rare Tourbillon Souverain in the colours of the Chinese flag. But alongside these six- and seven-figure watches (in U.S. dollar terms), are some underrated watches that might be value buys, notably the Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab. And then there’s the simply whimsical with the Konstantin Chaykin Clown II. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. The “China 2010” dial Lot 2215: Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab While Ulysse Nardin is not an independent watchmaker in the strictest sense of the term, it isn’t owned by a luxury group. And the Freak is still an avant-garde watch over two decades after its introduction, a watch so exotic it seems to have emerged from mind of a talented independent watchmaker. Which is true: it was conceived by Carole Forestier then refined and perfected by Ludwig Oechslin. So the Freak certainly makes the cut in this independents feature. And this particular Freak is incorporates some notable innovations. Historically a platform for movement-technology experimentation, the Freak evolved into the F...

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The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks Worn & Wound
May 21, 2023

The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The post The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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