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Reference Time: The White Gold Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Jan 31, 2023

Reference Time: The White Gold Vacheron Constantin American 1921

The Background What a year it has been for Vacheron. As the oldest maker in continual production, 2021 has marked the centenary year for the now iconic 1921 model. Not only that, but its Overseas has become the must have steel sports watch alongside the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Since the discontinuation of the 5711 and 15202, the time only, 42mm steel Overseas has seen waitlist explode in length. But we are of course here to discuss the wonderful 1921. So, a little background on Vacheron to kick things off. The Genevois watchmaker Jean-Mark Vacheron founded the company in 1755 at just 24 years of age (he must have weathered his fair share of storms over the years - how many businesses make it through 5 years today). His ambition was to create timepieces that would stand out for their elegance and quality. In 1785, Vacheron's son Abraham took over the company, which survived the French Revolution, among other economic crises. By 1814, third-generation watchmaker Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron was leading the company, but Vacheron realized that he needed a partner if the company was to survive. It wasn’t until 1819 when Francois Constantin, became a partner in the firm. From that point forward, it was "Vacheron & Constantin”.  The 1921 is a rare and unusual watch. You either love it or hate it (as all good design should be). Few will know that Vacheron Constantin did produce a similar looking watch first watch in 1919 which had the crown to the left of the lugs. It was a ru...

TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jan 31, 2023

TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach

TAG Heuer is certain to rank highly among lists of the most recognisable watch brands. Their commercial success in recent years, especially among our fellow Aussies, is rivalled only by a select few. The story is the same when one considers their rich and storied past, from their founding in 1860, until today. Patenting their … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer is still in the driving seat when it comes to their racing sponsorship outreach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Honouring the “First” with maki-e magic – the new Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition Grand Jan 31, 2023

INTRODUCING: Honouring the “First” with maki-e magic – the new Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition

Grand Seiko celebrates the 110th anniversary of Japan’s first wristwatch. The SBGW295 is inspired by Grand Seiko’s first watch from 1960 known as the “First”. Its black urushi lacquer dial and maki-e (sparkling picture) 24K powdered gold indices are crafted by master Isshu Tamura. I know it may seem like deja vu, after all, we did … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Honouring the “First” with maki-e magic – the new Grand Seiko SBGW295 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Synchron Military Returns with Poseidon Diving Systems Connection Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 300t Jan 30, 2023

The Synchron Military Returns with Poseidon Diving Systems Connection

It’s been quite awhile since we’ve heard from the brand Synchron. You might remember a couple years back, the brand re-introduced themselves to the watch world with the Synchron Military, a funky diver that fully embodied 70’s design. The limited release was an instant hit and sold out immediately. The case shape and design of the Synchron Military mirrored that of a Doxa Sub 300t, with its cushion silhouette and crystal that is affixed flush against the bezel. But that was the only thing the two had in common. The Synchron Military sported this quirky dial layout, peculiar handset, and a fully-indexed countdown bezel without the no-deco scale. At the time, that combination, in that case format, was unlike anything we’ve seen which probably made the Military so popular, especially since the Doxa Sub 300 was already a beloved piece. Synchron and Doxa have a connected past in multiple fashions, and it turns out that the Synchron Military design resides within the Doxa catalog in the form of the Doxa Army. It just so happened that the Synchron Military got a leg up on the Doxa Army. I’m sure bygones can be bygones between the two brands. There’s plenty of room to play in the sandbox after all, and Synchron is coming back in a big way. In their latest release, Synchron has tapped the Sweden based dive gear outfit, Poseidon Diving Systems, with their new Poseidon Ice Diver. The outer ring of the dial has the same blocky design. The black minute track is accompanied ...

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters Worn & Wound
Citizen s Latest Pair Jan 30, 2023

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters

Much of the country might be gripped by the dead of winter, but that doesn’t mean we can’t start thinking about the summer watches we’ll be wearing just a few (OK, maybe more than “a few”) months from now. In fact, I’d argue that a week where you see multiple major snowstorms leaving the landscape gray, salt stained, and dangerously icy is the perfect time to consider the next summer sports watch. The power of positive thinking, and whatnot. Citizen, it turns out, has a few contenders that have just been announced if you’re on the hunt for something fun and sporty for the warmer months. A bonus: these also work perfectly fine in an Ice Station Zebra situation, but I’m trying to lift myself out of a winter funk, so bear with me while I indulge a short lived fantasy of beach weather and strong drinks with those little umbrellas in them.  The pair of watches making their debut this month are built on Citizen’s fantastic Eco-Drive platform of solar charged quartz movements, perhaps the ultimate in affordable grab-and-go watch tech. Each watch is also based on Citizen classics from the early 00s, a period of time when the Big Watch trend was reaching a peak. The “Autozilla,” released in 2002, was a titanium dive watch with a water resistance rating of 1,000 meters in an enormous 55mm case. Citizen followed that watch up with the “Ecozilla,” a version of the watch with a similar case but powered by light, in 2004. Both are highly sought after by Citize...

OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA021 Grand Seiko has Jan 30, 2023

OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021

Grand Seiko has issued a standard production Lake Suwa sequel to the limited edition SLGA007, the new SLGA021 Includes an Evolution 9 case and bracelet, 9RA2 5-day Spring Drive calibre, Lake Suwa textured dial. The SLGA021 dial is darker than the previous SLGA007, and also does not use a golden-toned hand and logo like the SLGA007. … ContinuedThe post OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Baltic Aquascaphe Classic is a modern diver that oozes vintage style for a startlingly good price Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Jan 30, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Baltic Aquascaphe Classic is a modern diver that oozes vintage style for a startlingly good price

It’s probably fair to say that Baltic owe their current status as an overachieving microbrand to the release of the Aquascaphe in 2018. Blending different elements of 1960s’ skin divers, and 1950s’ legends like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, the Aquascaphe found its own footing as a modern diver with perfect vintage style. Since then, it … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Baltic Aquascaphe Classic is a modern diver that oozes vintage style for a startlingly good price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Begins Selling Vintage Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Cartier Jan 29, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Begins Selling Vintage Watches

Buying a vintage watch can be daunting, especially for the beginner. Some watch brands offer a solution: restoring and selling their own vintage watches. The latest to enter this area is Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC). As part of its 190th anniversary debuts, JLC announces The Collectibles, a curated selection of vintage timepieces that have been restored by its watchmakers and certified by the brand. It offers enthusiasts the opportunity to own vetted examples of iconic vintage models like the Reverso.  A Shark Deep Sea chronograph from 1959 Initial thoughts As a collector of vintage watches, such programmes are a welcome development. I like it when brands take steps to preserve their heritage with such vintage offerings, though it was a surprise when JLC announced this. When it comes to vintage watches, JLC has always been under the radar, so its vintage watches have never quite enjoyed the levels of hype enjoyed by its peers. With The Collectibles, JLC seems to be trying to change that. Granted, this concept has been done before by brands like Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and Longines. Still, it will be interesting to see if and how The Collectibles develops the market for vintage JLC watches. A 1946 triple calendar in steel Admittedly, such factory-vetted timepieces are priced at a (steep) premium, but they come with a peace of mind, especially since scholarship about the brand is relatively nascent (perhaps in part due to the relative affordability of vintage JLC). On t...

HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is the brand’s most accurate watch yet Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Jan 29, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is the brand’s most accurate watch yet

Rolex and Omega are the Coke and Pepsi of the watch industry. As two of the biggest brands in the world, they are constantly pitted up against one another head to head. Since the brand’s inception, Rolex has been known for incremental progress and updates. Omega, on the other hand, has taken more risks and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is the brand’s most accurate watch yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Balancier S2: 20 Years In The Making – Reprise Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Balancier S2 20 Years Jan 29, 2023

Greubel Forsey Balancier S2: 20 Years In The Making – Reprise

Including established shapes, mechanics, and components within a watch that bucks the norm is a great way to gently pull people along as a watch brand goes in a new direction. Greubel Forsey has subtly mastered this technique, and the new Balancier S2 is the awesomely unique result. The Balancier S2 has the warmth of classic Greubel Forsey intermingled with the crisp future of the brand.

6 Chopard Watches Dedicated To Legendary Racecar Driver Jacky Ickx – Reprise Quill & Pad
Chopard Watches Dedicated Jan 29, 2023

6 Chopard Watches Dedicated To Legendary Racecar Driver Jacky Ickx – Reprise

Jacky Ickx and Chopard co-president Karl-Friedirch Scheufele have been friends for 27 years. In 1989 Scheufele and Ickx drove the Mille Miglia together. “We got to know each other there. He turned up and said, ‘Well, I have no intention of driving. You’re driving; I’m going to watch the scenery’,” Scheufele recently laughed. It is such shared events in addition to the legendary race car driver's achievements that have inspired Chopard to continue to dedicate timepieces to Ickx, honoring a man who can certainly be called one of the world’s very best drivers.

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Jan 28, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup

It’s been a good couple of years for Zenith (waiting lists and all), and they’re off to a blazing start for 2023 with the release of the new Defy Skyline Skeleton at LVMH Watch Week in Singapore. This integrated model has been a popular pick since it was introduced, and the new version features some … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Grand Seiko SLGA021 inspired by Lake Suwa Deployant
Grand Seiko SLGA021 inspired Jan 28, 2023

New: Grand Seiko SLGA021 inspired by Lake Suwa

SLGA021 is the latest Grand Seiko watch borrowing from Lake Suwa. Looking upon the dial, one immediately recalls gently lapping waves wafting over wind-swept water. This “Lake Suwa” pattern was initially seen in 2021’s SLGA007. For SLGA021, it is finished in a deep blue that reads nearly black in lower light settings, capturing the look of Lake Suwa just before dawn. Against this dark base are broad markers and hands, all faceted and beautifully finished to emphasize clarity, beauty, and overall legibility.

The DIY Series: How to make your own watch (Pt 1) Time+Tide
Jan 28, 2023

The DIY Series: How to make your own watch (Pt 1)

Watch enthusiasts are absolutely spoiled for choice at the moment, with microbrands and big brand budget options just getting better all the time. There’s never been a more competitive time in the watch world, with pretty much every kind of watch you can imagine currently being made. That said, if you’ve got a hankering so … ContinuedThe post The DIY Series: How to make your own watch (Pt 1) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thor R. Worn & Wound
Sinn U1 ds – $2,300 Jan 27, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thor R.

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thor R. isn’t afraid to get away from the well beaten path. These watches offer a unique perspective on collecting, and come to the conclusion that you can indeed find a healthy variety within the confines of a similar genres. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. I appreciate high quality, but I also value understated style. My collection is striking, but not gaudy or too blingy. I don’t get many compliments or comments, but when I do, they’re always from “watch people” , not fashionistas. Looking to add one more big boy later in life, but for now, this is great. Bear in mind, these were all purchased north of the 49th parallel at either the manufacturer or the closest AD, so I’m guessing/converting to USD. Sinn U1 ds – $2,300 Always loved the face, and the grind dial aspect with grey and white colouring spoke to me. I have # 440/500. This is my primary EDC as it’s easy to read, looks great with everything, and is highly trustworthy. Like me, it’s ugly yet effective.  Marathon Red maple leaf JSAR – $1,200 I love the true tactical vibe of this watch. As you can tell, I like big heavy watches, and watches that are legitimately used for purpose. As a Canadian, it’s also nice to support a Canadian company that produces great quality, highly durable timepieces. This thing is a tank, and survived a nasty fall down a fl...

Breitling Pays Tribute to Giants in the Sky with Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747 Worn & Wound
Breitling Pays Tribute Jan 27, 2023

Breitling Pays Tribute to Giants in the Sky with Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747

When the Boeing 747 was revealed to the world in 1968, it instantly introduced a new era in air travel. Those in attendance, press and interested aviators alike, had no words for what they were looking at. The sheer size of the aircraft and its distinct upward curve above the flight deck was nothing like any other plane that was carrying passengers 30,000 feet up in the air at the time. It quickly became a coveted experience to travel in a Boeing 747, and that’s saying something considering this was a time where people got dressed up to fly in an airplane. Not like now, where sweatpants, a cozy hoodie, and noise canceling headphones are the norm. Flying back then was an event. The lore of the Boeing 747 only grew, as it was featured in many films including the 1973 James Bond flick, Live and Let Die. Even till this very day, the 747 is the aircraft of choice for the President of the United States. Introducing For The First Time Ever, The Boeing 747 But like all good things, they must come to an end. After 1,570 individual jets and 53 years of navigating the skies, the Boeing 747 has finally decided to retire. And to celebrate the original jumbo jet, Breitling has released a limited edition piece in partnership with Boeing called the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747. Breitling has a history that is deep rooted in aviation. Their very first designs, from dial layout to various complications, were created with pilots in mind. With both brands having a rich heritage i...

Introducing Time to Pack Episode 1: The Nomatic McKinnon Camera Pack 25L Worn & Wound
Jan 27, 2023

Introducing Time to Pack Episode 1: The Nomatic McKinnon Camera Pack 25L

For decades, if not centuries, watches have been marketed as jewelry. Here at Worn & Wound, we think about watches as gear, and as much as we love watches, we love all kinds of gear. In September of 2021, the Windup Watch Shop introduced a new section called Everyday Carry, or EDC for short. The premise was, people who care deeply about what’s on their wrist also care deeply about what’s in their pockets and packs. We know this is not just a theory, as you’re likely setting your watch down next to a cool pocket knife and a carefully selected wallet each night. One year ago, we launched our first sponsored content series called Tool/Kit. Over the past 12 months, this series has become one of the most popular forms of content throughout the Worn & Wound ecosystem. We’ve taken watches on adventures with other great gear from NYC to Nashville, from Iceland to Bonaire.  Based on the success of these watches + gear initiatives, we’re launching a new sponsored franchise called Time to Pack. This new monthly video series will feature our very own Kat Shoulders. In each episode, Kat will be pairing and packing a watch with some of her favorite travel gear.  This first episode, presented by Nomatic, features their McKinnon Camera Pack 25L, a versatile and durable bag for pros and travelers alike, as well as Kat’s own traveling photography setup. Learn more about her packing style and her professional tools, along with her very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We...

VIDEO: The IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old favourites with a sporty touch Time+Tide
IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old Jan 27, 2023

VIDEO: The IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old favourites with a sporty touch

As the popularity of rubber straps becomes ever more apparent, and to aid in providing the best personal touch to their wearer’s watches, IWC is introducing a slew of options for the members of their Pilot’s range. Over the last 18 months the brand has updated the water resistance of their core Pilots range to … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old favourites with a sporty touch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Spirate Hairspring in the Speedmaster Super Racing SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jan 27, 2023

Omega Introduces the Spirate Hairspring in the Speedmaster Super Racing

Having teased about a new innovation on social media for several weeks, specifically a “tiny device” that would be a game-changer for the Speedmaster, Omega has finally revealed the Speedmaster Super Racing. But the star of the show is not the watch but actually the technology in the all-new silicon hairspring within the latest Speedmaster. Known as Spirate, a portmanteau of “silicon” and “rate”, the new hairspring has a proprietary form that allows a watchmaker to vary the tension along its length, theoretically enabling fine adjustment of up to a tenth of a second. The result is a watch certified to have a daily rate of 0/+2 seconds, the most stringent timekeeping criteria amongst Omega watches.  Initial thoughts  While it is a given that Omega debuts a new Speedmaster every year, several of them at a go in fact, the revolutionary innovation in the hairspring was unexpected (though anyone who was trawling the Swiss patent registry would have gotten some hints). The patented Spirate hairspring The technical innovation behind Spirate is unquestionable, though the benefit to the wearer is probably less than the advantage it brings Omega in terms of streamlining regulation during production and assembly. And when Omega starts equipping its offerings with Spirate on a large scale, it will be an achievement from the perspective of industrial production.   As for the Speedmaster Super Racing itself, well, the watch is less than spectacular. Visually it’s sim...

Omega’s New Speedmaster Super Racing Has a Brand New Regulating System Allowing for Unheard of Accuracy Worn & Wound
Omega s New Speedmaster Super Jan 26, 2023

Omega’s New Speedmaster Super Racing Has a Brand New Regulating System Allowing for Unheard of Accuracy

Today, Omega has unveiled a new Speedmaster that their social media team has been teasing aggressively for the past few weeks. They promised a “tiny device” delivering a “massive change,” and to that end the announcement today is really more about mechanics than a new watch. There is a new watch, of course, but to the extent that today’s news excites you, it will almost certainly be a result of a very small component that Omega has completely rethought.  The Speedmaster Super Racing is the first timepiece from Omega to feature what they’re calling “Spirate” technology. Spirate is essentially a new method of movement regulation by way of a small knob connected to the balance that allows a watchmaker to adjust the rate in increments down to the tenth of a second. Omega claims that the end result is a movement that’s accurate to within 0/+2 seconds per day. Again, this is a mechanical movement that is, yes, METAS certified to be within two seconds per day. That’s Spring Drive level accuracy, without the benefit of quartz derived regulation. Assuming Spirate works as advertised (there’s no reason not to assume that given Omega’s proficiency in making highly accurate movements at a large scale) this is an enormously impressive accomplishment.  How does it work, exactly? Omega had to develop an entirely new silicon balance spring that can be adjusted for stiffness via a mechanism connected to the balance bridge (easily visible through the sapphire caseb...

Omega ousts Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day Time+Tide
Omega ousts Rolex Jan 26, 2023

Omega ousts Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day

New Spirate™ System debuts new hairspring with ultra-fine 0/+2 regulation capability. The system debuts in new Speedmaster Super Racing watch. Its usage beyond the Super Racing is planned, but consumers will need to wait for new calibres – not just new watches. COSC, METAS, Superlative, and more. There are various chronometer certifications within the industry today, with each, … ContinuedThe post Omega ousts Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Christopher Ward’s C65 Line Gets a Sandy Update with the Dune Series Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s C65 Line Gets Jan 26, 2023

Christopher Ward’s C65 Line Gets a Sandy Update with the Dune Series

For the last few months, Christopher Ward has received an unprecedented amount of attention from watch media and the enthusiast public for the release of the Bel Canto, a genuine industry phenomenon that has won over collectors of all stripes. The release was honestly timed just about perfectly, allowing the brand to get it into the hands of fans just ahead of the holiday shopping season and all of the listmaking that tends to happen at the end of the year, where the Bel Canto figured prominently. Supplemental releases in additional colorways have since sold out, and it appears that CW is ready to ride the Bel Canto wave throughout 2023 as the chiming watch is delivered to anxiously awaiting enthusiasts. But the first non Bel Canto related release of the year is something of a return to Christopher Ward’s tool watch roots. No chiming here, and no exposed mechanisms on the dial, showing that Christopher Ward is not moving directly into the haute horlogery sphere just yet.  The new C65 Dune series takes the popular C65 sports watch format into a desert inspired aesthetic. The trio of watches is named after Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe, and each watch makes use of tan and beige tones to underline a sandy theme. These are not hardcore tool watches in the traditional sense, though. They make use of Christopher Ward’s excellent “Light-Catcher” case finishing, which highlights unexpected bevels and undercuts in the complex case geometry and adds just a ...

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & Jan 26, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition

The idea of a re-edition within the watch market is nothing new. Many brands have woken up to the huge demand for revivals, recreations, or remixes of their lauded vintage references. But when these designs date to the specialist era of watchmaking, where multiple brands turned to the same dial, case, and movement manufacturers, there … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.