Hodinkee
Three On Three: Comparing In-House, Manually-Wound Dress Watches Under $20,000
The manually-wound dress watch is a basic in any man's wardrobe, and we're putting three that feature in-house movements for under $20,000 to the test.
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Hodinkee
The manually-wound dress watch is a basic in any man's wardrobe, and we're putting three that feature in-house movements for under $20,000 to the test.
Hodinkee
A beloved HODINKEE video franchise returns. Our deputy editor sits down with Brynn Wallner and Malaika Crawford to discuss three watches that say "success" – the Patek Ellipse, Cartier Santos, and Vacheron Patrimony.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this week’s installment of our ongoing “3 for 5k” series, reader Christopher Lee presents a collection that incorporates two watches he personally owns, and one that might be entering his collection soon. These three watches cover a lot of horological ground, from a classic Swiss diver, to the most tech-forward watch in Seiko’s catalog. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Oris Aquis – $2,400 When setting out to name three watches for $5k, I knew I wanted to have at least one dive watch. It was the style of watch that first got me hooked on the hobby and in my opinion, every collection should have one. To me, the Oris Aquis has qualities that make it extremely desirable. Personally, I own the Caliber 400 model, but for the purposes of this list I will refer to the Sellita powered version. First off, the Aquis has great build quality and finish. The watch feels substantial in the hand and features 300m of water resistance. Furthermore, the transitions from polished surfaces to brushed are razor sharp. The head of the watch feels extremely solid with crown guards that are screwed onto it, which for me is a purposeful nod towards the longevity of the case. The bezel and its ceramic insert feel great to use with its snappy ratcheting feedback. Every set of links on the integrated bracelet features polished outer links and full articulation, contributing to a comfortab...
Worn & Wound
“Good things come to those who wait.” In a culture of instant gratification and overstimulation, these words are a poignant reminder that patience is often well-rewarded. Of course, as enthusiasts and collectors, we know well the excitement of anticipation and the thrill of the hunt. It’s also fun to be the first to enjoy and experience a watch that has yet to reach the rest of the watch-buying public. And who doesn’t love being early in discovering a hot watch? To that end, we’d like to highlight a few watches from the Windup Watch Shop that are currently available for pre-order. Don’t wait too late, however; they may be gone before you know it. Let’s dive in. “Good things come to those who wait.” In a culture of instant gratification and overstimulation, these words are a poignant reminder that patience is often well-rewarded. Of course, as enthusiasts and collectors, we know well the excitement of anticipation and the thrill of the hunt. It’s also fun to be the first to enjoy and experience a watch that has yet to reach the rest of the watch-buying public. And who doesn’t love being early in discovering a hot watch? To that end, we’d like to highlight a few watches from the Windup Watch Shop that are currently available for pre-order. Don’t wait too late, however; they may be gone before you know it. Let’s dive in. The post Watches Worth the Wait appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Akmaev will discuss the art of hand engraving, enameling and high-end finishing.
Deployant
Immediately after the Christmas Wishlist post, Santa Clémence granted writer Stanley's wish to get freaky with the Freak X Carbonium® over the holiday season and it was certainly an exciting journey that will unfold.
Monochrome
Traditional watchmaking is at the heart of British watchmaking institute Garrick. Ever since the brand’s foundation in 2015, the goal has been to rekindle the British style of mechanical watchmaking. Watchmaking in Great Britain has huge historical significance thanks to visionary people like Thomas Mudge, John Harrison, and many others. For Garrick, things have long […]
Time+Tide
We're barely one week into 2024 and yet another eclectic Rolex Day-Date 36 has been unveiled.The post Rolex kicks off 2024 with a special edition Day-Date in honour of the Vienna Philharmonic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Micro gas tubes, a manufacture movement, and a unique lumed bezel in a capable diver.The post The Ball Skindiver III Beyond combines tritium gas lume with an impressive movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Arriving just as the Dragon year begins in February, the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon” is the latest illustration of the Geneva brand’s artisanal and technical capabilities, with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture on a grand feu enamel dial and an in-house calibre that indicates the time and calendar on discs. The “Year of the Dragon” is the final chapter in the brand’s Chinese Zodiac collection, an annual series of limited editions that began in 2012 with the rabbit. With the Chinese zodiac made up of a repeating 12-year cycle – with each year represented by an animal – the series reaches its conclusion with this dragon edition, which like its predecessors is available in either pink gold or platinum. Initial thoughts Dragon-themed watches have already started to proliferate with the incoming Year of the Dragon, simply because the dragon has the most universal appeal amongst all of the zodiac animals. It carries desirable symbolism across East Asia, as opposed to say, the rodent or pig, which have a niche audience. So the appeal of a dragon watch is arguably less about the motif, which is now common, but the execution. And here the Metiers d’Art “Year of the Dragon” excels in both presentation and technique. I’ve always been fond of Vacheron Constantin’s quadruple-disc display because it is both logical and attractive. The display makes sense because it leaves majority of the dial free fo...
Worn & Wound
Last year, Heinrich introduced an eye-catching dial in an all new case. Each of Heinrich’s watches up to this point have been described as vintage inspired with strong 70s vibes.The Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” is no different, with the dial taking fairly direct inspiration from Universal Genève’s Unisonic “Buzzsaw” tuning fork watch from the late 1960s and ‘70s. Whether we will see a reincarnation of this design from Universal Genève under Breitling’s stewardship remains to be seen, but if you are crying out for a funky dial design at an affordable price, this could be the watch for you. The Helicoprion name comes from an extinct genus of shark-like fish, which had a spiral of teeth in its lower jaw – the teeth increasing in size as it spiraled outwards. This creature, along with Heinrich’s latest watch, has also been dubbed the “Buzzsaw” due to the similar circular tooth configuration seen on the blade of a circular saw. While the Universal Genève reference also saw each tooth shifting to a darker or lighter shade as they increased in size, the Heinrich Helicoprion dial markings are presented in a single color as the teeth grow between each hour (or five minute) index. $558 Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 or Sellita SW200 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Beads of rice bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 40 x 47.8mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty ...
Worn & Wound
The latest release from Maurice de Mauriac is a timely release for the holiday season and the upcoming Olympic year. Focusing on an array of gold-accented chronographs, the new L3 Gold Edition seamlessly marries an elegant design with superb quality that has become synonymous with the Zuch-based brand. The L3 Gold Edition comes in five colorways to choose from: Emerald Green, Cherry Blossom, Opalescent White, Spheric Blue, and Spheric Brown, each with a corresponding hand-tooled leather watch strap that perfectly complements the dial color. Each timepiece features a brushed 18kt 5N red gold case (measuring in at 40.5 mm) with a screw-in red gold crown and mushroom-type pushers, complemented by an antireflective domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire caseback. All models in the L3 Gold Edition include subdials for the chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph half-hours at 6 o’clock, and running small seconds at 9 o’clock. For prospective customers, one is able to choose between an automatic or manual movement for their L3. The automatic movement is powered by an automatic Concepto 2100-2120, while the manual-would option contains a Concepto C2000. The L3 Gold Edition watches are available now via Maurice de Mauriac’s website with prices starting at CHF 14,700. Images from this post: The post Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Swatch releases 5 new watches to celebrate the Year of the Dragon, inspired by neon colours of Asian city street lights and signs.
Monochrome
Last year marked an important milestone for Bell & Ross when the brand updated its iconic BR 03 collection after well over fifteen years of loyal service. The brand’s instrument-inspired collection is renowned for its extremely legible (in most cases) and recognizable design ethos based on a square case and a circular dial with a […]
SJX Watches
With recent releases well received, most notably the 190th Anniversary models and Small Seconds featuring engraved Breguet numerals, Longines’ Master Collection now gains a twin time zone offering with the Master Collection GMT, which is only available in 18k gold, for now. With the case in either yellow or rose gold, the GMT stands apart from its more affordable predecessors. It also diverges in terms of design, with applied Roman numerals instead of Breguet numerals. Initial thoughts The latest addition to the line continues the progressive facelifting of the Master Collection that gives existing models a sophisticated style. Though the range already included a GMT, it was in the older livery with a guilloche dial. The new GMT sticks to the classical aesthetic of the Master Collection, though it’s not quite as successful as the facelift applied to the rest of the line-up. Although elaborately done with applied numerals – which are solid gold to match the case – the dial is a bit old fashioned and feels uninspired. This is particularly obvious when compared to its time-only counterparts with their engraved Breguet numerals. That said, applying Breguet numerals to the GMT is a simple matter, and I would not be surprised to see that in the future. Because of the solid gold case, the Master Collection GMT costs US$14,750, which is well beyond the brand’s traditional price segment and where it does well. Even though this is a Longines with features usually found in ...
Time+Tide
A pioneering dive watch brand and their contemporary endeavours won D.C. over in 2023.The post Why Zodiac is the brand that won 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Pretty much since the first day of taking up the financially ruinous hobby of watches in early 2022, I’ve had a bit of a thing for tool and sports watches. Granted, I haven’t been scuba diving and I’ll certainly not be scaling Mount Everest any time soon, but there is – to me at least – something romantic about wearing a watch that offers a sense of genuine utility, especially in the age of the smartwatch. What’s more, I believe that a watch should tell something about its wearer; a glimpse into their personality rather than just be a status symbol and a source of bragging rights. When the opportunity for my first ‘proper’ watch arose in January 2023, I chose a Tudor Black Bay GMT. It was a belated 30th birthday gift and whenever I look at it, it reminds me that firstly, my knees hurt more often than they don’t, and secondly, reconciliation exists and hope springs eternal no matter how rough things may seem at certain times. There are also another two reasons unrelated to age as to why this watch is special to me. Several millennia ago as a student, I was fortunate to spend an academic year in St. Petersburg. That’s the Russian one, FYI, and that period from September 2010 to July 2011 kicked off a fascination with the awesome-yet-frightening city on Neva. In 2015, having also developed a love affair with the history of the Baltic States, I moved to Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, to try my luck at Eastern Europe without the paternal hand of the un...
Monochrome
Without surprises, the arrival of a new year also means subsequent price changes for brands (and this isn’t limited to watch brands, but you’ll find these in multiple other industries). Last year already, we published the newly released price list of Rolex, which showed a rather impressive increase in the RRP of most models, with […]
Worn & Wound
The concept of a “watch enthusiast” who owns, trades, and collects them for the love of the game is a relatively new one. It’s a far cry from our forebears, who often had one go-to watch for most of life’s occasions. Over the years, however, as watches have transitioned from being truly indispensable daily tools to totems of style and storytelling, the GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) moniker remains a popular label for watches that can fulfill the “do-it-all” role that was so commonplace in the last century. While few of us can imagine ourselves as true one-watch aficionados, it’s satisfying to own a timepiece that just always works no matter the occasion. The appeal of these watches is easy to understand: they’re usually durable yet stylish and offer great value by fulfilling multiple roles. Here are five options from the Windup Watch Shop that we would consider GADA favorites; rest assured they’ll be with you wherever your adventures take you. The concept of a “watch enthusiast” who owns, trades, and collects them for the love of the game is a relatively new one. It’s a far cry from our forebears, who often had one go-to watch for most of life’s occasions. Over the years, however, as watches have transitioned from being truly indispensable daily tools to totems of style and storytelling, the GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) moniker remains a popular label for watches that can fulfill the “do-it-all” role that was so commonplace in the last ce...
Time+Tide
Ultra-thin and ultra-luxe, but why does it exist?The post Who the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Eight Days is really for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Meet the alpha of Omega watch collecting.
Hodinkee
And we bring it to you now, in the second installment of our new video series.
Hodinkee
You'll find pieces here that simply don't exist anywhere else. What are they – and why are they here? Find out in the debut episode of our new video series.
Monochrome
The Longines Master Collection has always been a discreet one. Classic, timeless design with nothing truly groundbreaking to report. Sure, these were elegant and restrained models but they could live with a bit more extravagance. In late 2022 and again last year, Longines decided to do exactly that, with the release of a series of […]
Deployant
Longines adds two new GMT references to their classical Master Collection in yellow gold and rose gold. Both limited editions of 500 pieces each.
SJX Watches
Ten years after it arrived on market, Girard-Perregaux revived its most notable modern-day invention with the Neo Constant Escapement. Operating on the same principles as the original, the Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) features an upgraded movement inside a more compact case. A combination of a historical concept originating with Abraham-Louis Breguet and cutting edge horology, the NCE retains the defining invention of the original – a true constant-force escapement. “True” because the constant-force mechanism, comprising a lozenge-shaped silicon spring, is integrated with the pallet lever, which in turn interacts with a “natural” escapement of twin escape wheels. While the key concept has been retained, the rest of the NCE, however, has been improved over the original, with wearability in particular having been enhanced. Initial thoughts The fundamental concept of the NCE is appealing because it successfully combines a significant historical invention, Breguet’s double-wheel escapement, with an innovation that is entirely 21st century, a compliant mechanism in silicon. Both are brought together in an elegant yet ingenious manner. The basis of the movement is Breguet’s échappement naturel, the “natural” escapement with two wheels that has been adopted in the modern day, in a variety of modified forms, by Voutilainen, F.P. Journe, and Charles Frodsham. But the natural escapement here has been enhanced with a constant force mechanism made up of a single pi...
Monochrome
For Valentine’s Day 2024, Glashütte Original gives its Lady Serenade model a romantic makeover with diamonds and a delicate mother-of-pearl dial with gradient pink-hued numerals. Combining traditional Saxon pragmatism in the form of a robust stainless steel case and an in-house automatic movement, the three-hand-and-date Lady Serenade is a limited edition of 50 pieces. The […]
Time+Tide
Don't start 2024 off with a dirty watch - invest in one of these clever, gentle and effective watch cleaners.The post Clean up your act in the new year with the AIS Collective ChronoPen Watch Cleaning Kit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Our Style Editor makes a case for the return of the Offshore and what its success in the '00s can teach us about pushing watch design forward in 2024.
Teddy Baldassarre
What are the best men's watches you can buy today? As with listing the "best" cars, wines, cookware, or mobile devices, answers will of course vary widely based on personal tastes, practical needs, and budgets. Whether your inclination runs to elegant and dressy timepieces that will impress your coworkers in the boardroom, or if you prefer a tougher, stylish-yet-practical watch that you can wear to the beach or the racetrack, or even if you're someone looking to fly your tech-nerd flag in your wrist, our massive compilation of the 101 best men's watches - incorporating brands and models nominated by various TB team members and covering numerous styles, price points, and categories - has you covered in just about every popular category. To keep it helpful, we arrange every category in ascending order of price. Our current compilation of the 101 Best Watches includes longstanding classics as well as watches released within the last year. Check back in for regular updates and/or additions to the list. CLASSIC CHRONOGRAPHS Bulova Lunar Pilot Price: $825, Case Size: 46mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 52mm, Water Resistance: 50m, Movement: Quartz Bulova 262kHz, Crystal: Sapphire The Bulova Lunar Pilot is an homage to the Bulova chronograph worn by U.S. astronaut Dave Scott on the Moon during the Apollo 15 mission. Visually, the new Lunar Pilot is a faithful recreation, retaining the curvy case shape and distinctive elongated pushers of the original. The dial i...
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