Hodinkee
Happenings: Join Us For A Live Premiere Of ‘Watches In The Wild: Season Three’
It's called The Road Through America. And you're invited to come along for the ride.
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Hodinkee
It's called The Road Through America. And you're invited to come along for the ride.
Worn & Wound
The Lamborghini Miura is something a legend, and not just of its era. It is arguably among the most beautiful sports cars ever produced, and set the template for the rear mid-engined two seat supercar. Fewer than 1,000 Miura’s were produced between 1966 and 1973, and tend to fetch 7 figure sums when they appear at auction. While the car is firmly out of reach for many of us, Atelier Jalaper has found a way to incorporate a small piece of that car into the dial of a watch called the AJ-P400. Like the car, the watch will be quite limited in production, naturally, as parts of the car aren’t exactly easy to come by. The watch takes other design cues from the Miura, and brings it all together in a mostly respectful manner. The AJ-P400 is offered 4 colorways, each a take on the colors seen on the original Miura, including light blue, green, and orange joining a full black dial. The inspiration appears to be Azzuro Mexico for the blue, Verde Rio Metalizzato for the green, and of course, Arancio for the orange, though none look to be dead ringers for the distinctive paint codes. The color is used sparingly, only found in the chapter ring rehaut at the dial’s perimeter. Given the colors, it’s plenty to make a statement, however. The star of the show is the central dial piece, which is a piece of an actual Lamborghini Miura, according to the brand. According to Atelier Jalaper, it took them over a year before finding what they were looking for in France, and what they foun...
Time+Tide
Kim Kardashian clearly has an eye for a watch with rich provenance and a historical tale to tell.The post Kim Kardashian has quietly built a watch collection worthy of a billionaire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Responsible for some of the most reliable and well-priced diver watches on the market, Seiko is synonymous with the genre. The Japanese watchmaker continues to expand its dive watch offerings, but now with a second time zone complication. A “modern reinterpretation” of its Hi-Beat 300 m dive watch from 1968, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT is the first mechanical dual-time zone dive watch in Seiko’s Prospex sports watch collection. The SPB383 Initial thoughts Arguably the collection offering the best value in Seiko’s line-up, Prospex is going slightly upscale with the second time zone movement, while maintaining its strong price-performance ratio. The standout among the new models is the SPB381 with its deep green dial. While the limited edition SPB385 with its textured, “ice blue” dial is undoubtedly fancier, the SPB381 is clean and functional but appealing with its palette. The SPB381 Though it is a two-time zone watch, the Diver’s GMT is still primarily a dive watch. So it retains the traditional elapsed time bezel and clever places the 24-hour scale on the flange around the dial. That said, the Diver’s GMT is more accurately a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a true GMT that has an adjustable local-time hour hand (as found in pricier Grand Seiko models). This means a few extra steps when setting the time for a change in time zones, though it is a perfectly acceptable compromise considering the price. At U...
Quill & Pad
The importance of the water source for distilleries is well-known and crucial for style and quality. How special, then, for a distillery to have access to the melted snow from Mt Fuji, but only after those waters have spent fifty years filtering their way down to an aquifer 100 meters below the Distillery, for its sole use.
SJX Watches
Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design. The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399). The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399 Initial thoughts Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial. While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models. Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly r...
Worn & Wound
Mido had a bonafide hit on their hands in 2020 with Ocean Star Decompression Timer, a colorful skin diver based on the original Ocean Star divers from the 1960s. The brightly colored sectors allow divers to time decompression stops by sight, but for those of us who tend to spend most of our time topside, it was just a fun way to incorporate some color into a style of watch that sometimes veers toward the sober. The viral success of that release (it sold out quickly and seemed to dominate Instagram for a brief period of time) makes it somewhat surprising that Mido hasn’t returned to the format more frequently in the years since, but here we are with what I think many would argue feels like a natural follow up. The Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer takes the colorful sector layout of the Decompression Timer and applies it to another complication altogether. The execution is actually rather simple, even if the dial appears to be extremely complicated. In the dial’s interior, we have the same decompression table as seen in the prior version of the watch. But at the perimeter, Mido has added a 24 hour scale, and instead of a traditional dive bezel, we get a rotating city ring for time indication. Importantly, the bezel maintains a minute scale, with 10 minute intervals marked off in the midst of international cities, which means you could still use this watch as a dive tool if you needed to. The dial is a lot of fun, and if you were drawn to the original, there’s a ...
Worn & Wound
Last year, I wrote about the Taucher 2 from Heinrich – a moderately sized dive watch packed with retro touches, even if not all of them were to my taste. Today, I’m looking at the next step in the evolution of the Taucher 2 line. There are a lot of similarities between the two models, but a few obvious changes as well – and not just the addition of a GMT hand. So, how does the Taucher 2 GMT stack up? Heinrich Watches are making this GMT available in three varieties. All are the same in terms of case and bracelet and differ only in the dial, and chapter ring, color. I’ve been spending some time with the ‘safe bet’ black dial as well as the more adventurous blue and yellow combination. These two are also joined by a white dial with a blue and white ‘Pepsi’ colored chapter ring. Each of the two models I’ve looked at not only differs in color scheme but also in texture. The blue dial gets a sunburst pattern, while the black dial is treated to something a little more unusual. The three-dimensional pattern resembles Clous de Paris, but on an enlarged scale, and with a curved pattern that brings to mind the lines of longitude and latitude as they span the globe. Such an impression is no bad thing on a GMT watch. $1500 [Hands-On] The Heinrich Taucher 2, Now in GMT Guise Case Stainless Steel Movement Sellita SW330-2 Elaboré Dial Black, Blue or White Lume BGW9 SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel Water Resistance 200M Dimensions 41x43mm Thickness 14mm...
Quill & Pad
Ian Skellern had both a pleasure and an honor to be interviewed by Ariel Adams on the aBlogtoWatch Superlative podcast. Their wide-ranging conversation covers how Ian started writing about watches, what he thinks the horological world is doing right and wrong, and co-executive producing (with Hind Sediqi) the film Making Time.
Hodinkee
Why do some watches have two of something when one is plenty enough to get the job done? The short answer is: optimization.
Quill & Pad
Clockmakers rarely get the credit they deserve, and Elizabeth Doerr believes that Rick Hale is deserving of at least a few minutes of your attention because this young autodidact clockmaker is doing something unique: handmaking self-designed clocks out of wood according to some of John Harrison’s principles.
Worn & Wound
Dual time watches have enjoyed a resurgence in popularity thanks to a new crop of movements boasting variations of the complication, and that’s a very good thing, netting us new GMT watches like this Seiko, this Zodiac, and this Lorca, among many others. What’s rarer is a novel take on presenting the complication. That’s exactly what we get from a new watch from ochs & junior, which ditches the fourth hand altogether, and provides a second set of adjustable hour markers instead. This is the ochs line two time zones aka the due ore raw. The traditional GMT configuration is lauded for its simplicity which boils down to a 24 hand dutifully lapping the dial once each day, usually accompanied by a set of 24 hour markers against which to read it independently of the 12 hour markers for the local time. There are plenty of exceptions, of course, but not nearly enough in the sub-exotic realm. The Nomos Zürich world time is one such example, and now this ochs & junior represents another such breath of fresh air. The two time zones seen here utilizes the classic ETA 2824-2 that’s been modified to host a disc containing a set of hour markers in Arabic numeral form under the dial. The standard 31-tooth date disc has been replaced with a 48-tooth disk that’s independently adjustable through the crown. This makes for an intuitive display that’s easily managed and read. Simply add or subtract the difference between your home and local time zones and set the display accordingl...
Hodinkee
Reviving an old watch isn't a new trick, but this one has something different under the hood.
Worn & Wound
Whatever it is you think of when you hear the term “Hamilton Jazzmaster,” the brand seems to be working in the early days of 2023 to turn it on its head. We brought you news recently of an audacious new Jazzmaster Face-2-Face that brings an avant-garde twist to a collection that is best known for fusing classic Art Deco influences with contemporary flourishes, and Hamilton has recently announced a new subcollection within the Jazzmaster camp that takes the line into a more traditionally sporty direction. The Performer series of watches seems at first blush to be a more serene and reserved Jazzmaster, still taking some cues from well trod vintage styles, but here in a more subdued and perhaps easily understood way. The Performer line consists of two new watches, each with a wide variety of variants to choose from. The Jazzmaster Performer Automatic Chronograph has a chronograph layout that is as classic as it gets. This is a 42mm three register chrono (with a date at 4:30) featuring a fixed tachymeter bezel. There are dials in blue or black (the black version is available on a bracelet, while the blue appears to only be available on a strap), and there’s also a white dialed version in a rose gold PVD coated case. These watches have a lot of obvious similarities to various vintages of a certain Rolex chronograph that remains just about impossible to acquire, including the silvered borders around each subdial. Still, there are some small touches here that set them apa...
Deployant
Review of the new Dumoreau DM02, a new micro-brand (founded in 2020). We had the watch on loan and lived with it a fortnight to tell you all.
Time+Tide
Jules Verne is one of the most influential authors of all time for one main reason - adventure. At the time, nobody else had captured the childish sense of fantastical adventure that still translated to adult audiences, earning him the “father of science fiction” title twice over. Horizon, a young microbrand based in Singapore, released … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Horizon Pilgrim is a diver inspired by drama on the high seas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Welcome to episode 39 of A Week in Watches with this week’s host, Blake Buettner. This week we’re recapping news from the UK with new watches from Garrick and Farer, who each bring their unique personality and vision to some rather compelling watches in the form of the S6, which we wrote about here, and Farer’s Moonphase collection, introduced here. There’s plenty more to enjoy from the likes of Nodus, who dropped their anticipated Sector Deep this week, and from ochs und junior, who introduced a new two time zone watch in their signature style (more on this watch coming soon). Finally, we touch on the new divers from Sinn, the T50 collection, which just slipped out of last week’s episode. You can see Zach and Blake react to the new watches in this collection right here. Which of these watches would you rank as your release of the week? Let us know in the comments either here or on our YouTube channel, and while you’re there, don’t forget to subscribe. Enjoy episode 39 of A Week in Watches below and keep an eye out for next week’s news right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by Quick Release. Quick Release is a place where Worn & Wound’s partners showcase a wider variety of watches, product drops, limited deals and promotions, event announcements, and more. Check back daily, follow Quick Release on Instagram, and subscribe to our mailing list so you don’t miss a thing. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 39 – Big Moonphases, Goldbronze, & Nift...
Time+Tide
Casio as a first watch is something that a lot of us can relate to. No matter how many fine mechanical timepieces are in the collection, there’s just an effervescent joy in these plastic wonders that transport me back to a simpler time, when my biggest dilemma was which Saturday morning cartoon to watch. I’ve … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best limited-edition character Casio G-Shock watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Though I love the watch community as a whole, there are times where I couldn’t disagree more with the direction of its ire. One such moment happened earlier this year with the release of the MoonSwatch. The overall positive vibes were cut like a knife by a wave of negativity. Much of which had to … ContinuedThe post You are not a flipper: Three perfectly good reasons for selling a watch right after buying it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. dials back their outsized aesthetic for a surprisingly restrained new Casino model Yes, there’s an actual functioning roulette wheel built into the dial The flying tourbillon is displayed on the caseback, so as not to interrupt the clean lines of the dial Jacob & Co. have long been pushing the horological envelope. … ContinuedThe post The Jacob & Co. Casino Roulette Tourbillon is every gambler’s dream – or worst enabler appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
From what we hear, it was one helluva game – congratulations, Kansas City – but our eyes were on the sidelines, in the skybox, and all over the halftime show to see what collectors like Jay-Z, Gordon Ramsay, and RiRi herself were wearing.
Worn & Wound
When we last checked in on Garrick, the small British indie had just unveiled the S5 series of watches, their most high-end and luxurious creations to date. Coming in at nearly $20,000, many longtime admirers of the brand might have felt some sticker shock (although not too many – the initial run was pre-sold to existing clients before the embargo lifted). It will be a relief, then, to note that Garrick’s latest watch, the S6, is back to four digit territory, and a deliberate evolution of the S4, the brand’s entry-level line. There are some minor aesthetic tweaks to the S6 that give it a noticeably different character than other Garrick creations, but they allow the artisans who work on these watches to really flex their muscles when it comes to dial work. And of course they are still completely customizable, so the end result, almost by definition, is precisely what you were looking for. The key differentiating factor between the S4 and S6 is the dial layout, specifically the lack of large numerals at the perimeter that remain a defining feature of the S4. Garrick’s goal with the S6 was to achieve an aesthetic that’s more contemporary (the S4’s design language, like all of Garrick’s creations to a certain degree, is rooted in classic English pocket watch design). On the S6, time is read via a thin chapter ring at the outer edge of the dial, with small markers for the minutes and hours that have been hand filled with ink. Removing the numerals gives the dia...
SJX Watches
Cartier’s best known watches are often symmetrical and formal, think Tank or Santos, but also animal inspired, most notably the Panthère. But its latest suite of ladies’ watches is unconventional in its mix of forms and finishes. Inspired by the jewellery collection of the same name, the Clash [Un]limited is edgy, modern, and different from the brand’s usual offerings. Initial thoughts While I can’t profess to be an expert in ladies’ watches, the Clash is both an interesting and appealing design to my eye. It is an intriguing mix of design elements that might seem ill-matched on their face but somehow work well together. So the dial and facetted crystal are obvious retro, but they go well with the studs and balls of the bracelet; the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. At the same time, the edgy styling of the Clash doesn’t feel like Cartier, which has a predominantly classical or Art Deco house style. In fact, the Clash seems like something from a brand more associated with streetwear, like Louis Vuitton for instance. That said, the colourful variant of the Clash does evoke Cartier’s signature Tutti Fruitti jewellery. Chic yet eccentric Launched in 2019, Clash de Cartier was perhaps Cartier’s first collection of jewellery with a distinct streetwear aesthetic, one heavy on studs and spikes. According to Cartier, however, Clash took inspiration from the work of Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), the brand’s longtime artistic director who favoured...
Worn & Wound
Swatch, the brand that is just about everyone’s first watch, celebrated their 40th birthday this week. On March 1, 1983, Swatch unveiled its first collection of plastic cased, battery powered watches, and it’s not an exaggeration to say that it just might have saved the Swiss watch industry. After a long period of dominance in the mass production of watches, quartz watches made by Japanese companies at a massive scale radically changed the watchmaking landscape, putting the traditional mechanical watchmaking industry into something of a tailspin. The massive success of Swatch through the 80s and into the 90s injected cash and enthusiasm into Swiss watchmaking that the industry still benefits from to this day. We write about anniversaries all the time in these pages. As we’re all fond of saying, “Every year is an anniversary year.” But in the coverage of the big Swatch 4-0 that I’ve seen this week, I’ve much more commonly heard it referred to as a “birthday,” and I think that’s important. Anniversaries can be joyous occasions, but the word implies a certain seriousness that isn’t right for Swatch. A birthday is different. It’s fun, there’s cake, and hopefully some color. That’s how I think of Swatch (minus the cake). Swatch and I are just about the same age. I turned 40 in October of last year, and it’s interesting to think about the brand approaching middle age, as I, much to my dismay, seem to be doing as well. Does Swatch also have naggi...
Time+Tide
If I asked you what attributes are necessary for a brand to be elevated to the echelons occupied by the likes of the holy trinity, I’m sure the answer would contain some, if not all, of the following: rich heritage, exceptional attention to detail, and unique, highly-involved complications. I needn’t name all the names that … ContinuedThe post Chopard L.U.C and the challenges of outgrowing a household name appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s proved to be a busy week for Australian watch enthusiasts from around the country. Firstly, TAG Heuer celebrated the opening of their seventh stand-alone boutique in Australia – a number warranted by the fact that Australia is the brand’s fourth-largest market worldwide. The stars of the evening were the TAG Heuer Monaco, and its … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG Heuer boutique opens in Adelaide, Cartier pop-up exhibition in Sydney, JLC celebrations in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Minimalism can often be used as an excuse by cheap watch brands to get away with lazy design, but the discerning eye will always be able to tell when a corner is being cut. Bauhaus is one of the arts of using minimalism to its maximum effectiveness, where design and function both inform each other … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Form follows function in the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The gram debuted in 2010. And since then, a lot of us have adopted a 'pics or it didn't happen' mindset. But these strange and wonderful watches very much did happen, even if you've never seen them in your feed.
Worn & Wound
One of the major principles of Art Deco design is to infuse beauty into functional, everyday objects and what better everyday object to do that with than a watch. Bremoir’s Lexington draws inspiration from the iconic Art Deco-styled Chrysler Building in NYC. Angled geometric patterns and intricate details throughout are easily traced from the watch directly back to the building. Whether it’s the angular applied indices or the stepped polished bezel, there’s a lot to take in, but it never seems like too much. What we have is a handsome 39mm watch that offers a nice break from modern design. As a fan of modern watches (mostly because of the lack of hassle) it’s especially nice to not have to go vintage to get the classic Art Deco styling seen on the Lexington. Let’s take a closer look at this unique new watch from Bremoir. $985 [Hands-On] The Bremoir Lexington, Art Deco Done Right Case Stainless Steel Movement Swiss STP 1-11 Automatic Dial Sector style with metallic finish Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 50M Dimensions 39×48.5mm Thickness 10.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $985 Case It’s easy to trace the case geometry back to the design seen in the Chrysler Building, and it’s executed well. The tonneau-shaped case features some heavy polished bevels on the sides that carry down into the lugs. Vertical brushing on the sides provides some nice contrast to the polished portions. On the right side of the case...
Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen’s Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver represents their interpretation of a multi-functional steel sports chronograph teeming with vintage attributes. The collection’s signature – a two subdial display, tachymeter scale integrated into the outer dial, and a rotating bezel that subtly incorporates a 12 hour display giving the already highly capable chronograph the ability to track another timezone. The vintage aesthetic doesn’t just harken back to the designs of your classic steel sport of watch of the 60’s and 70’s, it actually pulls from the very same design cues of the original Nivada Grenchen chronographs. Nivada’s current Chronoking Manual in particular retains the collection’s design language, but doubles down on the age-old appearance with its chocolate-toned subdials and yellow markers. Topping it all off, the Chronoking encases a Sellita SW510 manual movement in a tidy 38mm case. These are all attractive features and the norm within the Chronoking, as well as the rest of the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver collection. The only caveat here is that their chronographs are positioned within a crowded price tier filled with brands offering something relatively similar in design and function. However recently, Nivada Grenchen released a very enticing iteration of their Chronoking in the Chronoking Meca-Quartz. Albeit sold out, the Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Meca-Quartz includes all the charming traits and functionality at an approachable $479. Vi...
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