Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, With Upgraded Movement
It's not just the movement that's been tweaked; the case has a new sleeker profile as well.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
The many layers of the Constellar Origin
An intricate dial, compact case, manually wound movement, and some laser-engraved finesse - there's a lot to like here.The post The many layers of the Constellar Origin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon
Bell & Ross is a watch brand that is known for its aviation-inspired timepieces and the iconic square dash gauge case design. The latest addition to their collection is the BR 05 Artline Dragon, a limited edition model that features a dragon motif on the dial and the case. The dragon is a symbol of power, wisdom and luck in many cultures, and it is also a tribute to the Chinese New Year of the Dragon in 2024.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands – Finally!
Something strange happened in 2013. Omega released a new self-winding Speedmaster with its killer co-axial movement and called it the Speedmaster '57. It looked like the original reference 2915 from 1957 in so, so many ways, right down to the crown-guard-less, polished case, and steel bezel. It was, as I called it back then, a superb offering for someone looking for a vintage-looking watch with great styling but with modern technology at a great price, from a blue-chip brand. But one thing really bugged me about that watch – where were the broad-arrow hands? You call it a Speedmaster '57, and do everything right except give it its most identifiable trait? I didn't get it, I still don't, but it doesn't matter now because Omega went ahead and fixed that.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Europe-Exclusive Seiko Prospex Tortoise SRPK77
When it was first presented back in 2021, the Seiko Prospex Land Series was a slightly confusing watch. Mixing elements from dive watches – the emblematic Turtle case with 200m water-resistance – with features from exploration watches – like the compass bezel usually found on the Alpinist – this amphibian model was hard to pin […]
SJX Watches
Blancpain & Swatch Introduce the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms “Ocean of Storms”
Just days a week into the new year, Blancpain and Swatch announce an all-black variation of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms, their affordable collaboration introduced last year. The Ocean of Storms retains all the distinctive features of the model, namely a 42.3 mm Bioceramic case containing the Sistem51 automatic movement fitted with a rotor bearing a nudibranch (a shell-less mollusc for those unfamiliar with esoteric marine creatures). Priced at US$400 as before, it will be available at select Swatch boutiques starting January 11, 2024. Initial thoughts When Swatch started teasing this new variant on social media, it seemed to be yet another one-off limited edition available for one day, like the MoonSwatch “Mission to Moonshine Gold” releases last year. However, as more details emerged, it became apparent that this was not the case as this will be part of the permanent collection, bringing the number of Scuba Fifty Fathoms models to an even six. At first glance, the Ocean of Storms bears a striking resemblance to last year’s Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary “Act 1”, a high-end watch that is an actual Blancpain, particularly with the date window and notched bezel. Nevertheless, adjustments to the design set it apart from its pricier cousins as well as its siblings in the Scuba line. It is clearly the most monochromatic and low-key of the range. Priced at US$400, the Ocean of Storms is priced the same as the other variants, retaining its fun and affordable appeal. However...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw”
Last year, Heinrich introduced an eye-catching dial in an all new case. Each of Heinrich’s watches up to this point have been described as vintage inspired with strong 70s vibes.The Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” is no different, with the dial taking fairly direct inspiration from Universal Genève’s Unisonic “Buzzsaw” tuning fork watch from the late 1960s and ‘70s. Whether we will see a reincarnation of this design from Universal Genève under Breitling’s stewardship remains to be seen, but if you are crying out for a funky dial design at an affordable price, this could be the watch for you. The Helicoprion name comes from an extinct genus of shark-like fish, which had a spiral of teeth in its lower jaw – the teeth increasing in size as it spiraled outwards. This creature, along with Heinrich’s latest watch, has also been dubbed the “Buzzsaw” due to the similar circular tooth configuration seen on the blade of a circular saw. While the Universal Genève reference also saw each tooth shifting to a darker or lighter shade as they increased in size, the Heinrich Helicoprion dial markings are presented in a single color as the teeth grow between each hour (or five minute) index. $558 Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 or Sellita SW200 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Beads of rice bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 40 x 47.8mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass Puts a Flight Instrument on your Wrist
Last year marked an important milestone for Bell & Ross when the brand updated its iconic BR 03 collection after well over fifteen years of loyal service. The brand’s instrument-inspired collection is renowned for its extremely legible (in most cases) and recognizable design ethos based on a square case and a circular dial with a […]
SJX Watches
Longines Adds a GMT to the Master Collection, in 18k Gold
With recent releases well received, most notably the 190th Anniversary models and Small Seconds featuring engraved Breguet numerals, Longines’ Master Collection now gains a twin time zone offering with the Master Collection GMT, which is only available in 18k gold, for now. With the case in either yellow or rose gold, the GMT stands apart from its more affordable predecessors. It also diverges in terms of design, with applied Roman numerals instead of Breguet numerals. Initial thoughts The latest addition to the line continues the progressive facelifting of the Master Collection that gives existing models a sophisticated style. Though the range already included a GMT, it was in the older livery with a guilloche dial. The new GMT sticks to the classical aesthetic of the Master Collection, though it’s not quite as successful as the facelift applied to the rest of the line-up. Although elaborately done with applied numerals – which are solid gold to match the case – the dial is a bit old fashioned and feels uninspired. This is particularly obvious when compared to its time-only counterparts with their engraved Breguet numerals. That said, applying Breguet numerals to the GMT is a simple matter, and I would not be surprised to see that in the future. Because of the solid gold case, the Master Collection GMT costs US$14,750, which is well beyond the brand’s traditional price segment and where it does well. Even though this is a Longines with features usually found in ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux’s True Constant-Force Escapement
Ten years after it arrived on market, Girard-Perregaux revived its most notable modern-day invention with the Neo Constant Escapement. Operating on the same principles as the original, the Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) features an upgraded movement inside a more compact case. A combination of a historical concept originating with Abraham-Louis Breguet and cutting edge horology, the NCE retains the defining invention of the original – a true constant-force escapement. “True” because the constant-force mechanism, comprising a lozenge-shaped silicon spring, is integrated with the pallet lever, which in turn interacts with a “natural” escapement of twin escape wheels. While the key concept has been retained, the rest of the NCE, however, has been improved over the original, with wearability in particular having been enhanced. Initial thoughts The fundamental concept of the NCE is appealing because it successfully combines a significant historical invention, Breguet’s double-wheel escapement, with an innovation that is entirely 21st century, a compliant mechanism in silicon. Both are brought together in an elegant yet ingenious manner. The basis of the movement is Breguet’s échappement naturel, the “natural” escapement with two wheels that has been adopted in the modern day, in a variety of modified forms, by Voutilainen, F.P. Journe, and Charles Frodsham. But the natural escapement here has been enhanced with a constant force mechanism made up of a single pi...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day 2024
For Valentine’s Day 2024, Glashütte Original gives its Lady Serenade model a romantic makeover with diamonds and a delicate mother-of-pearl dial with gradient pink-hued numerals. Combining traditional Saxon pragmatism in the form of a robust stainless steel case and an in-house automatic movement, the three-hand-and-date Lady Serenade is a limited edition of 50 pieces. The […]
Hodinkee
The Style Section: The Royal Oak Offshore Is Due For A Resurgence
Our Style Editor makes a case for the return of the Offshore and what its success in the '00s can teach us about pushing watch design forward in 2024.
Deployant
New: Piaget Dragon & Phoenix Collection
Piaget has released four new High Jewelry watches that continue the theme of the Lunar New Year. It looks to be 3 Dragon watches and a Phoenix watch in rose gold, although the press release and other publications reproducing the same release seem to suggest there are 2 of each. From the rendered images, it appears to be one dragon and a phoenix in 32mm Altiplano case, one 41mm Altiplano High Jewelry Dragon and finally, a Dragon Piaget Emperador watch, featuring a flying tourbillon.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35MM
Back in the 1950s when you were setting off for a distant land, a key piece of gear would be your trusty tool watch. Today, you’d reach for something like a Rolex Explorer II with its chunky steel case and bezel, bold handset and healthy application of lume. A Seiko SPB143 would make an excellent option on a tighter budget where other spendy gear takes priority. The point I’m trying to make is that the tool watch as we know it is today typically something big, chunky, robust, and borderline aggressive looking. The landscape for tool watches was completely different back in the 50s. If you were one of the American Navy’s Deep Freeze 1 task force and on your way to the South Pole back in 1955, the watch you would have been wearing is significantly different from the modern tool watch. That watch would have been the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - a slim, art deco-inspired watch that was built tough, but not in the way you may think of it today. The Deep Freeze 1 task force’s mission was to establish a permanent base at the South Pole - one of the Earth’s most severe and ice-laden landscapes - and they needed to choose a timepiece that could withstand the conditions. Today we’re looking at the faithful modern recreation of the Antarctic. The 35mm case stays true to the original’s dimensions while retaining the robust construction, including anti-shock and anti-magnetic properties. Let’s take a closer look and see if the new Antarctic lives up to its vintag...
Time+Tide
Why Rolex is the brand that won 2023
It may seem the most boring choice, but Zach makes a case for why Rolex made the most of 2023.The post Why Rolex is the brand that won 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
2023 Holiday Sale: Gifts to Grab in the Final Hours
It’s the FINAL COUNTDOWN! You’ve waited till the absolute last moment to grab that gift you’ve always wanted for yourself or for that person in your life who finally dropped a hint you can act on. Whatever the case, you now find yourself scrambling through our Gift Guides and Sales and Promotions page for the perfect gift. Well, I’m here to let you know that we still have a ton of great items in stock. And the icing on the cake? Today, until 1:00pm EST, we’re offering free overnight shipping in the USA on orders over $500. It’s the FINAL COUNTDOWN! You’ve waited till the absolute last moment to grab that gift you’ve always wanted for yourself or for that person in your life who finally dropped a hint you can act on. Whatever the case, you now find yourself scrambling through our Gift Guides and Sales and Promotions page for the perfect gift. Well, I’m here to let you know that we still have a ton of great items in stock. And the icing on the cake? Today, until 1:00pm EST, we’re offering free overnight shipping in the USA on orders over $500. The post 2023 Holiday Sale: Gifts to Grab in the Final Hours appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Introducing – Two Limited Edition Corum Bubble for the Year of the Dragon
Corum’s launch of the Bubble watch in 2000 took the watch world by surprise. Well before the onslaught of XXL watches, the Bubble exploded on the scene with a massive 44mm case and, even more startling, a towering domed sapphire crystal magnifying and producing crazy distortions on the dial. Inspired by an experimental deep-sea dive […]
Monochrome
Introducing – New Dial Colours for the Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC 39mm
It’s pretty surprising when you think that the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant’s take on the luxury sports watch, has been around for fewer than three years. Thanks to its well-designed and finished case, its integrated and interchangeable bracelet, its clean dial, its well-represented range of complications, its affordable price tag, and the fact that it […]
Deployant
Review: the new Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum
"You've got a case that could light up this whole town" she sang... Here's our review of the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum after a week on the wrist.
SJX Watches
Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team
I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Hard to Find Enicar Diver, a Zodiac in Great Condition, and an Iconic Midcentury Alarm Watch
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Girard Perregaux Chronograph Starting this week off strong with an unusual vintage Girard Perregaux chronograph complete with boxes and papers. The large square steel case has some honest wear, but is unpolished and exhibits the original brushed finish. The elapsed time bezel has a few marks but is otherwise in good shape. The blue dial with three white subdials is a beauty and in great condition. The hour and minute hands are bright red and the chrono seconds hand is white, giving the watch a bold and colorful look. The watch is powered by the workhorse Valjoux 7736 manual wind movement, the same movement found in vintage Heuer chronographs among other brands. To top it all off, the watch comes complete with the original inner and outer boxes, and the guarantee and instruction booklets. View auction here Vintage Zodiac Seawolf Automatic Here’s a beauty that you do not find often in this condition. This vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf is a real stunner. This no-date model with the metal bezel is one of the fist generations of Sea Wolf and honestly are usually found in very worn condition. This example is super clean, with an unpolished steel case and the bezel has almost zero ...
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon: The Most Complicated Wristwatch Produced by Patek Philippe – Reprise
The Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon launched in platinum for the 2001 model year, the 12-complication featured two dials. Dial one was devoted to a moonphase indicator and a perpetual calendar with retrograde date display. On the sub-dial display for months, simple text promised a tourbillon regulator within the case.
Worn & Wound
Rado Brings Back the Anatom, a Lost Classic from the 1980s
Over the weekend, Rado dipped into their archives to bring back a lost classic from the 1980s. If you can recall the early 80s (or just have a penchant for watches of this era) you might remember the Anatom. This square cased watch with a dramatically curved case and sapphire crystal has been ripe for repurposing for the last few years – it certainly has some integrated bracelet sports watch notes to it. What Rado has done with this release is take the premise of the watch from the 80s and modernize it using Rado’s contemporary design language. The result is an Anatom that doesn’t look much like the original, but clearly shares some DNA and is unmistakably a Rado. The most significant difference between the original Anatom and the new version is the more prominent use of ceramic in the present day model. Rado has always been keen to experiment with materials, especially ceramic, but they’ve really leaned into this as part of their brand identity quite heavily in the last few years. Most of the key models in their lineup are either full ceramic, or ceramic in all the important places. That’s where the Anatom fits in. The new version has a PVD coated steel midcase, but the ceramic bezel leaves a large visual impression, and we also get a ceramic crown and a ceramic overlay on the integrated rubber strap’s clasp. The case measures 32.5mm x 46.3mm and is 11.3mm tall. As with the vintage versions of this watch, the case is curved, which in turn means the dial and ...
Worn & Wound
Farer’s Latest is Inspired by the Pullman Company, the Historic UK Train Car Manufacturer
When it comes to setting the standard for British elegance, does anyone do it better than Farer? The London-based watchmaker, whose timepieces are produced in Switzerland, recently launched their latest in the Cushion Case collection: The Durham Pullman. Evoking a bygone era, this latest from Farer takes inspiration from the Pullman Company, manufacturer of train cars throughout the United Kingdom. With this, the mixture of greens and silver balances a bit of sophistication with everyday wear. The dial is the real selling point of this watch, so we’ll talk about that first. The dial boasts a luxurious dark green hue with a metallic brushed finish, lending it a dynamic tone under varying lights. Atop this base, a raised ring with a radial brushed finish creates the distinctive sector dial effect of the Cushion Case collection. Resting on this ring are highly polished silver markers- a blend of batons and Roman numerals-accompanied by a refined dauphine handset. Complementing these silver elements is the seconds sub-dial, featuring a sunken silver channel with an engine-turned finish. These meticulous details converge to establish the seasonal release of the Durham Pullman as an exceptionally refined timepiece suitable for both formal occasions and weekend outings alike. As part of the Cushion Collection, the Durham Pullman is bound to have presence when worn due to its shape and easy-to-style size that complements a variety of wearers. Sitting at 38.5 mm with a 43.8mm...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon”
In keeping with its tradition of special editions for the Chinese Lunar New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon” to celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon that begins in early 2024. A limited edition that’s made-to-order, the Reverso “Dragon” maintains the timeless, double-sided design, but with a black grand feu enamel dial and a hand-engraved case back portraying a Chinese dragon. Initial thoughts Commemorative Lunar New Year editions are not new for Jaeger-LeCoultre, as the brand produced an equivalent edition last year. However, the formal works: combining enamel and engraving results in a more elaborate design compared to the typical Reverso while still retaining the elegance and character of the model. The watch showcases a captivating motif on its back. On closer inspection, intricate details come to the fore, with the dragon depicted in low relief against a fired enamel background. Although almost monochromatic, it is undeniably vivid. Just like last year’s Tiger edition, the Reverso “Dragon” is made-to-order and is priced at US$107,000 before taxes. It comes in slightly higher than the previous Reverso models featuring similar artwork. It is expensive for what it is, despite the evident artistry of the decoration, particularly since Jaeger-LeCoultre is historically a brand associated with more affordable watches. A lavish depiction of a Chinese dragon The Reverso “Dragon” depicts a dragon in the clouds against a ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Discovering The Retro-Cool Sherpa Ultradive & OPS Compressor Dive Watches
The 1950s and 1960s have been a groundbreaking era for watches when it comes to water resistance. Although the concept of a watertight case wasn’t new at that point, technological and material advancements allowed for great strides to be made in creating waterproof watches. Names such as Submariner, Fifty Fathoms, SUB 300, Seamaster and many […]
Quill & Pad
Watch Market Predictions 2024: Is the Tide Turning?
Many of the trends that we have experienced happening slowly over the last few years have continued. These include more dial colors, case materials, and a shift to smaller case sizes. However, it feels we have also hit a turning point where some changes are coming about.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Alpina Alpiner Extreme Chronograph
The Alpiner Extreme collection is Alpina’s take on the hyper-popular category of sports watches with integrated bracelets. Relaunched in 2022 with a robust cushion-shaped case and a textured dial, the first model took many by surprise with its regulator dial, a throwback to a popular and massive 48mm Alpina model known as the Avalanche Regulator […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3, The Brand’s New Entry-Level Watch
Greubel Forsey consistently defies convention, ensuring that each of the brand’s timepieces is nothing short of intriguing. In 2019, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey ventured into the sports watch category with the GMT Sport – a distinctive creation that integrated a world-time indication with an inclined tourbillon, but mostly an entirely new convex case design. […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen”
Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...